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Good on you for taking the plunge to fix something yourself. I'd replace those calipers too, personally. When you try to bleed it, I have a suspicion you'll shear off the bleed nipples when you go to loosen them anyway.
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Nov 29, 2018 21:13
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How did you tighten them back on? If you used your gun, you probably did what the guys did to you and fatigued them even more. I use my impact set to the lowest setting to zip them on and then torque them with a torque wrench after. Looks like you'll have to get some lug studs and pound those suckers out.  Not a fun job but could be worse. Worst case is a new hub if that doesn't go well. And since it's a subaru with the dumb ball joint pinch bolt on the knuckle (at least the newer ones did maybe I'm wrong here), that ain't coming off easily on a rust belter. Hopefully it doesn't come to that. I had no shame in dropping off the entire knuckle to a machine shop and paying them to sort it out because what a pain in the dick.
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Nov 30, 2018 01:12
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If the rotor has a smooth face (aka the part that hit the ground isn't mushroomed up) then you can try and run it. It might be hell for wheel balance, though. I'd definitely try to do just the studs before doing the entire hub because gently caress working on that rusty mess any more than you have to. This requires taking off almost no parts and some therapeutic hammering, generally. Sounds like you replaced the shims and guides, which is always good. I always put a thin layer of grease on them to allow the pads to slide easier and not make noise. The caliper stuff that may be a problem later are the slides (2 long bolts/pins on the back side of the caliper that you grease when changing the pads) that can seize up, and the bleeders. If the slides are ok and didn't have any signs of corrosion on them and the caliper moves freely, then you may be ok with just new grease. For the bleeders, use a lot of penetrating fluid and maybe heat to get them free. Also use a socket on it initially vs. a flare wrench in hopes that you don't round the hex on it. Then switch over to a flare once it's broken free (if it breaks free instead of just breaks  ).
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Nov 30, 2018 14:44
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It's probably just a core charge. I'd ask about it. Might just cost a little more money if you don't give them the old wheel. How badly damaged is the current wheel?
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Dec 10, 2018 15:13
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I know one of my local places here in  does it.  http://www.ryanspickapart.com/Home/PartPrices
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Dec 12, 2018 20:59
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