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The Wiggly Wizard
Aug 21, 2008


I just got back and did a fair amount of hiking in case anyone wants more input there.

The best way to experience Volcanoes National Park is over 2 or more full days. My strategy has been to stay in the town of Volcano, which is like 10 minutes from the park by car. I like the Holo Holo Inn, a friendly hostel with a communal kitchen, washer/dryer, and private rooms available. This way we can get to the park by sunrise when there are very few people there, hike for a few hours, then get breakfast at Volcano House and continue our day. There is a good Thai food truck for dinner in Volcano, but you might consider bringing some groceries up from Hilo as it's a very quiet village with not much else happening.

You have to be prepared for chilly temperatures, wind, rain, and uneven trails. Rain jacket and rain pants are a must IMO. So many tourists were wearing sandals, shorts, and garbage bag ponchos looking miserable. You need sturdy shoes or boots with vibram soles to see the best stuff.

My park tier list:

Kīpukapuaulu *** - Beautiful guided hike through an old growth rain forest that was mostly spared by the volcano and settlers. We got there at sunrise and had the entire hike to ourselves. Lots of cool plants and birds, good rain forest sounds.
Visitor Center > Kilauea Iki > Nāhuku (out and back) *** - If it's not foggy you'll have great ledge views of the caldera and the also impressive Kilauea Iki. Nahuku is cool if you haven't seen a lava tube before, but it's quite short. The one near Hilo is better if you're prepared. You can add the crater floor and make this a loop hike.
Ka'u Desert *** - You have to see some Pele's tears and Pele's hair while you're at the park!! Two of the most beautiful geologic phenomenon you'll see anywhere in the world.
Sulphur Banks and Steaming Bluff ** - Easy walk over from the visitor center and back. Giggle about the suphur smells.
Chain of Craters Road ** - Good if you had a rainy day like us. The highlight for me was a Nene was chilling at one of the pullouts, but the petroglyphs and vista points elevate this as well. Otherwise I don't care much for long, winding drives.
Devastation Trail * - Somewhat underwhelming. Cool to see the old crater rim road interrupted by a huge cinder cone and it's a quick hike.

Next time I go back I want to see Kahuku Unit and more of Mauna Loa.

tiny dracula posted:

I just got back yesterday from 10 days on the big island, so I'll tell you what I liked the best while it's still fresh.

Pu’uhonua O Honaunau
Two Step
Kahalu’u Beach Park
Punalu’u Black Sand Beach (lots of turtles).
Kailua Beach (old airport beach).
Rainbow falls
Ola Brew Company
Greenwell farms
The Vanillerie
Umekes
Suisan Fish Market
South Kona Fruit Stand

Hope this is helpful, let me know if you have any other specific questions!

Thanks for this detailed post. Your tips turned out so much better than the Frommer's guidebook I bought. We went to all of the stuff I quoted and they ruled.

Kailua-Kona is looking a little rough these days. I was last there as a kid in the 90s and I remembered it fondly. Today the resorts are kind of falling apart (The Royal Kona is physically falling apart lol), traffic is bad, trying to walk anywhere is sketchy because of aggressive drivers and drunks. IMO such a lost opportunity keeping Ali'i Drive open to cars. Karens and other rude boomers are EVERYWHERE. Most of the people working retail and food in town are fully checked out and you can't really blame them. Still, there are a few interesting spots to eat and there's a lot to do on that side of the island. Snorkel Bob's has never let me down.

I got to play a little beach volleyball in the town center which was fun and the regulars there play at a high level (I'm pretty good and I got spanked), but the wait time for a game can be long. Worth a watch on a Friday or Saturday when there best players come along with the biggest crowd. Tournament schedules are posted here https://www.kvahawaii.org

At Pu’uhonua O Honaunau we hiked the 1871 trail, which is kind of secondary to the main exhibit but it was one of my favorites of our whole trip. It's not long but it takes a while because of the uneven terrain. Really beautiful spot!

The seahorse farm was neat. Their mission seems pretty noble. Got lots of wife points for this one.

Unfortunately it was way too windy by the time we got to Punalu'u to snorkel, but we saw tons of turtles from the beach anyway! We grabbed malasadas at Punalu'u bakery too.

It's not gourmet at all, but shout out to Ken's House of Pancakes in Hilo if you want a classic diner experience or some hawaiian specialties.

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