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Dagen H posted:'02 Outback Sport (Impreza). Rear main is weeping a bit, but it's a winter beater with 200K+ on it, so IDGAF. I planned to replace my current car with an Outback Sport (though a later model) whenever it dies. But my 03 Legacy Outback wagon is just a $2000 car that I'll be happy with if it lasts a year. It's a $2000 Subaru with working AC, working fart warmers (heated seats? in MY Subaru?!), working everything except for the rear window defroster (only 2 lines on the grid work), and it had 142k with a <20k timing belt and matching, if not old, tires. It's... not in great shape, but it runs. You should have seen the hell I went through replacing the RF half shaft. It laughed at the air hammer. It laughed at (and bent) the 20 ton press. It took acetylene and the press to get the fucker to finally pop out.  (possibly SLIGHTLY related, I need a new wheel bearing and hub on that corner now...)
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Nov 18, 2019 20:40
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I don't like the look of this...
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Nov 25, 2019 15:09
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Dagen H posted:I don't like the look of this... More ports are better. Now you've got some water injection and can run more timing.
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Nov 25, 2019 16:33
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EVERYWHERE 
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gently caress it, I'm sending it. Not my circus. meatpimp posted:More ports are better. Now you've got some water injection and can run more timing. Better than the previous situation, which was exhaust-gasses-into-the-coolant injection.
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Nov 25, 2019 18:49
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*declares Subie fixed, whilst knocking agressively on every available piece of wood*
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Nov 27, 2019 20:36
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That's not your fist knocking. 
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Nov 27, 2019 20:36
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STR posted:That's not your fist knocking. Oh, you  Look at this poo poo: 
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Nov 27, 2019 20:50
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Nov 27, 2019 20:54
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STR posted:Oh hey I have the same oil filter on my EJ25 right now. I put a Gates on mine and I just had to swap a new tensioner on after 12k fwiw
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Nov 27, 2019 21:35
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They left out the part where you must be chanting "the world is flat" the entire time or the ritual will fail.
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Nov 27, 2019 22:00
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No, it's "HEFTY! HEFTY! HEFTY!". Right there at the bottom.
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Nov 27, 2019 22:31
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BTW, I know the above-mentioned "alphabetical sequence", because my brain thinks it's vital information.
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Nov 27, 2019 22:34
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It makes sense when you see it's about properly squaring up the headgasket to the opposing surfaces and getting correct head stud stretch. quote:Subaru forum thinktanks Are filled with a loving bunch of idiots. Gates kit it completely fine
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Nov 28, 2019 11:55
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I'm glad I don't live up north because I'd seriously consider buying a Subaru even tho I'd probably regret it. In Florida they are pretty much pointless so I don't have to worry
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Nov 28, 2019 16:37
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Are filled with a loving bunch of idiots. Gates kit it completely fine A Chinese Gates tensioner just failed on me after 20k. We bled the thing down perfectly. I'd never trust their poo poo for anything more than belts again. Gates "N" kits, with the Japanese bearings and OE parts, seem to be fine, just like their older kits. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Nov 28, 2019 |
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Nov 28, 2019 17:11
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shy boy from chess club posted:I put a Gates on mine and I just had to swap a new tensioner on after 12k fwiw Yeah, I've seen horror stories about the Gates tensioners, though only the ones made in China.  I'm kinda tempted to pull the timing cover and see if it has a Japanese or Chinese tensioner in there if there's an easy way to tell; the timing belt kit has less than 20k on it. The previous owners, up until the most recent one, definitely took good care of the car. The most recent one only had it for 6 months; going by Carfax, they dumped a lot of money into it, then dumped it immediately after it got a new OEM Subaru alternator at the dealer (.... and the fucker already has a bad diode  ). Being a SOHC EJ25 in an engine bay made for an EZ30 means I have a good bit of room between the front of the engine and the radiator support, and being SOHC I can't imagine the timing belt being a difficult job if I do need to tear it apart.I'm not opposed to swapping the engine/trans at some point if the tensioner does happen to fail, mostly because these are supposed to be so easy to swap poo poo on (plus it's a $2k beater). Neither are in the best shape, though the trans just feels like it isn't getting enough pressure (sluggish shifts, sluggish going into drive, the occasional flare on an upshift). I have a new filter to replace the definitely-very-wrong-and-very-old filter on it. Someone's had the pan off at some point too, and used a gallon of RTV to seal it up, so I wouldn't be surprised if the screen inside is clogged with RTV chunks. The engine is a little tappy and pisses like mad out of the rear crank seal, but it sounds the same cold or hot, 5w30 or 10w40. Just cranks a bit slower when it's <45F with the heavier oil. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Nov 28, 2019 |
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Nov 28, 2019 17:38
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STR posted:Being a SOHC EJ25 in an engine bay made for an EZ30 means I have a good bit of room between the front of the engine and the radiator support, and being SOHC I can't imagine the timing belt being a difficult job if I do need to tear it apart. So, uh, gonna be the sperg guy.   The EZ30 is only a few inches longer than an EJ25. It was specifically designed to fit in engine bays designed for the 4-cylinder so they didn’t have to redesign the cars, unlike the earlier EG33 H6 in the SVX, which was literally the 4-cylinder with two more cylinders added. The EZ30/36 used Siamese cylinders and some other tricks to keep it remarkably short.
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Nov 28, 2019 23:07
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Darchangel posted:So, uh, gonna be the sperg guy. The only thing you really have to change when going from a 4-cylinder to a 6-cylinder is to shorten the upper rad hose a bit, iirc. Even the motor mounts are the same. A remarkable job of Subaru engineering effort to make a swap that literally nobody does much easier.
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Nov 28, 2019 23:36
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A remarkable job of Subaru engineering effort to make a swap that literally nobody does much easier. I'm still waiting for the perfect BRAT or XT donor shell.
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Nov 29, 2019 04:32
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Dagen H posted:I'm still waiting for the perfect BRAT or XT donor shell. I don't actually know if the EJ/EZ/EG/FB/FA motor mounts line up with the pushrod engines, but I would sure like to find out.
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Nov 29, 2019 05:06
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Darchangel posted:So, uh, gonna be the sperg guy.  Today I learned. Pretty smart engineering (and significant cost cutting without any real compromise?) on their part. It's still a decently roomy engine bay, at least when it comes to the front of the engine, and maintenance stuff seems well thought out (except for spark plugs). Anything involving valve covers can gently caress right off though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Nov 29, 2019 |
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Nov 29, 2019 07:49
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Darchangel posted:So, uh, gonna be the sperg guy. The main reason it is short is timing chain rather than timing belt. Siamese cylinders dont remove that much width but they certainly removed a lot in front of the shortblock. Once you strip a EJ25 and a EJ30 down to the short block, it's resonably apparent the EJ30 is more like a EJ20 with two cylinders added. EJ25 short block with a semi closed deck mod done to it  EJ30 short block  Note the lack of thing hanging off the front of the EJ30. The crank pully sits well inboard of where it would on a EJ25 I think the EJ30 long block comes out to be 20mm longer Seat Safety Switch posted:The only thing you really have to change when going from a 4-cylinder to a 6-cylinder is to shorten the upper rad hose a bit, iirc. Even the motor mounts are the same. A remarkable job of Subaru engineering effort to make a swap that literally nobody does much easier. Wait till you get to the real PITA - Wire that sucker up. Also it's not quiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiite as straightforward as rumour says as I'm learning working out how to stuff one into a GF8 Also the scar on my leg is testiment to the fact the EJ30 is very noticably heavier. I can manhandle a EJ20 by myself, try that with a EJ30 and uhhh....hopefully you dont lose the blood I did when it slipped from my hands CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Nov 29, 2019 |
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Nov 29, 2019 09:33
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You are correct other than the fact that the EJ30 does not exist. I assume that you mean EZ30. (sorry, I am sperg.) I learned from a Skid Factory (Turbo Yoda/Al from MCM) video that the early EZ30s like mine basically had the exhaust collected in the head, so other than a better muffler, there's nothing you can really do to help them breathe via exhaust. On the upside, though, they're easy to plumb up for a turbo because of it. The '03-up ('04 in US) third-gen Outbacks/Legacies had a proper exhaust-port-per-cylinder, and headers with proper collectors can be of benefit.
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Dec 2, 2019 23:25
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Plus those pictures are opposite sides of the engines. 1 and 3 (and 5) are offset forward by the width of a crank throw and main journal. Here is an actual closed deck converted block from the same side (that other one is a sleeved block with some pins added around the sleeve).  It's not really there's more "stuff" forward of the cylinder on the block itself, just that the bores are closer together and smaller and the timing chain stuff is narrower than a belt. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Dec 3, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2019 06:27
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I just want you to know that I shoved that greasy lump back in its greasy hole without cleaning a goddamn thing.
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Dec 3, 2019 08:21
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#1 Son doin' thangs.
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Dec 8, 2019 17:21
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1-year ownership update: *rusty brake line ruptures*
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Dec 10, 2019 12:45
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Dagen H posted:1-year ownership update: Hate hate hate that. My Avalon sat for about 4 months until I got off my rear end to replace a section of hard brake line. Pain in the rear end job with no reward at the end... the car just stops again. Whoopee. Good luck!
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Dec 10, 2019 18:54
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I love when the line is routed up over the frame and installed before the body is to make replacement a charm.
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Dec 10, 2019 20:38
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This particular line runs from the ABS pump down the firewall, behind the engine. Of course it had the be the line with the most obstructed access on the entire car.Elephanthead posted:I love when the line is routed up over the frame and installed before the body is to make replacement a charm. GMT400s ran the rear line inside the frame channel next to the fuel tank.
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Dec 11, 2019 00:22
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 When your Impreza is leakier than your NA Miata.
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Dec 11, 2019 18:57
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Dagen H posted:*declares Subie fixed, whilst knocking agressively on every available piece of wood* Who had "2 weeks to the day" in the pool? Claim your prize.
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Dec 12, 2019 00:52
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Dagen H posted:
Dagen H posted:Who had "2 weeks to the day" in the pool? Claim your prize. Jesus. 
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Dec 12, 2019 01:23
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False alarm. Loose hose clamp (two weeks after I last touched it?!?) --> coolant loss --> parking-lot refill --> improper fill/burp --> air pocket --> overheat. He shut it down before the gauge pegged and got it towed home.
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Dec 12, 2019 04:16
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Dagen H posted:False alarm. Loose hose clamp (two weeks after I last touched it?!?) --> coolant loss --> parking-lot refill --> improper fill/burp --> air pocket --> overheat. This is pretty much what happened to my 9-2X. I still have no idea how the hose clamps backed off. Good luck!
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Dec 12, 2019 16:47
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PT this morning (lumbar osteoarthritis, ouch), then off to the FLAPS for brake piping.
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Dec 12, 2019 17:12
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meatpimp posted:Hate hate hate that. How do you feel about replacing that line, and then during the bleeding process, the next-rustiest line blows? I can't get enough of that.
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Dec 13, 2019 18:39
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Can't say I've ever had a brake line rust out. 
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Dec 13, 2019 19:33
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Darchangel posted:Can't say I've ever had a brake line rust out. An acquaintence of mine went to SEMA once, and was admiring one vendor's display of pre-bent SS lines for domestic trucks. A local stopped, looked at the display, furrowed his brow, and asked, "What are those for?".
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Dec 13, 2019 19:37
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I’m just happy to live where that never happens, except in extreme circumstances. Or a lot of rust in general. Still happens, but you generally can’t, say, fit a cat through the holes.
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Dec 13, 2019 20:01
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