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Fiddling with the ignition and the transmission suddenly acts normal? And an electronic dash + climate control that don't work most of the time? Shot in the dark here, but I'm wondering if the ignition switch may be bad. I'd assume the cluster you swapped in runs off of the same circuits though, so that's very much a guess. Those cars were always peppy for what they were, they shouldn't feel like a "dog" (when compared to similar cars of the same era). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Nov 23, 2019 |
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Nov 23, 2019 20:06
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I have the ignition switch from the junkyard car and tried plugging it in back when I first got it. Those ignition switches you can operate with a screwdriver. And it just plugs in in two spots. It didn't seem to change anything. It is an easy enough swap to try it again but I wonder if the junkyard one is bad too. Maybe there's one of the relays for controlling that kind of stuff isn't triggering properly in the engine bay?. I'll post my progress today after I get back from the drag strip, but I got the speakers in and all together! It drives very spirited when the transmission control is working properly, and the idle seems to be smoothing out. Definitely needs new plugs, though, the ones I looked at were fouled badly.
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Nov 24, 2019 01:00
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While driving back from Denton I gave the climate control a punch and it came on briefly and then shut down again. I'm definitely thinking that is going to just need to be outright replaced. The transmission control either does not come on entirely or when it comes on when I turn the ignition on stays on the entire time. I also noticed after I got home that as long as the car was warmed up every time I turned the ignition back on the transmission control would come on. I'm wondering if it's as simple as a relay crapping out. RockAuto says that there is a transmission control relay for the car, I believe it's one of the ones that goes next to the fuse box. It may be worth replacing just to see what happens. I'll have a better update over lunch. I ended up getting back around 1am last night after am hour drive back in the Maxima. Power mode in that car is insane: it down shifted to second when I passed someone and took it all the way up to 5K on the tach which I was not expecting. That car is a snappy shifter! I was with the previous owner of the car during my time at the drag strip, and peppered him with questions about his experiences owning it. I'll give you the best and worst of that too.
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Nov 24, 2019 16:38
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I'd bet on that relay being a relay that's shared with something else (in terms of compatibility/model #) in the car. Like maybe an EFI relay. If it is, you can just swap them around as a diagnostic tool.
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Nov 24, 2019 17:44
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Well, while I was looking at that relay, I couldn't find anything on any site that said where it was. I found all the relays in the engine bay and such but nothing actually said Transmission control. I sat in the car about 10min ago at the start of my lunch break and I discovered this: It seems like a quick snap back to accessory and forward again gets the [P] light on and the transmission working. https://i.imgur.com/bSBeIET.mp4 Edit: the more I mess with it the less likely it seems specific to the ignition. I can feel a relay in the shifter going off either way, same with the column. I'm still going to try the quick ignition swap later this week. I can feel a definite 'clunk' in the steering column on the times when it does engage. This is all without running the engine, mind you. I guess I'll try that ignition again on Thursday. When I installed it before and tested it I was only looking at the instrument panel and had no idea about this [P] light system so I'll try it again and see what I find. The transmission light, when it comes on, stays solid so it is passing its internal checks. I'll have to pull the kick panel but it won't be a huge job. That'll at least eliminate the ignition switch.  I also found a post detailing the internal checks and this was the 'no light' scenario so maybe the neutral safety is still a part of this problem. Strange that it does come on from time to time though. Getting back to what I did with the car the last few days: I picked up some speed nuts but found the sheet metal around the speaker was curled downwards which made it so the nuts wouldn't sit flat with the holes and after going back and forth a few times in my impotent rage I grabbed some sheet metal screws and was expecting to continue the hack job tradition, but I will say they were almost the exact same size as the pre-made holes so they screwed in by hand and fit very snug. I have less bass now but I'd rather some nice wire managed mid-level speakers than a half working setup of good ones. They were the original OEM speakers so someone pretty much ruined this thing's audio setup just by wanting a CD player in it.  I wish I had pulled the speakers first because I could have mounted the larger ones in the existing Bose box and stuck it back in there, but at least this way I have better wire management. I put it all back together after that. No rattles and both seat belts are still seized. Most of the hardware for holding in the back decking and the upper half of the rear seats was missing which is an alarming trend I'm seeing everywhere in this car.  Another thing I took a look at was the cruise control switch. It felt super loose and would crunch into the wheel housing when I would press it. I popped it out and both the switches are clickable. So that's odd. the nubs that pressed the two switches has worn down over time, I think. That or there's a layer of something missing between these switches and the rocker.  So getting to the questions I asked him about the car, I hit him with a few questions on what the car was like in his ownership and got some interesting findings. 1.) The lights on the transmission switch never came on for him. It very rarely drove properly. I suspect, as I said previously, that it has always been in limp mode for him. 2.) The cruise control does work but "randomly speeds up" sometimes. 3.) That issue I had that one day where it idled at about 250 and would die? "That just happens sometimes." 4.) The windshield has a ton of vertical scratches in it. I asked what that was about.  He said one morning he didn't have an ice scraper so he used the back of a knife.  5. )The sunroof shade is gone which causes the roof of the car to bounce and rattle at idle. He says he removed it for reasons unknown and might still have it. 6.) The speaker and the aftermarket radio were already in the car when he got it so I can't rage at him for that botch job. The radio's CD player is starting to go out. I would replace it with the same single DIN unit that I put in to replace the Tracker's equally bad aftermarket botch job but I'm afraid of what I'll find when I take the radio out. I am planning another junkyard trip to see if i can pull the blend door motors for the HVAC to find if that's the reason nothing moves in mine. Bonus shot from the drag strip: 
Luxrage fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Nov 24, 2019 |
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Nov 24, 2019 20:22
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Update: I didn't realise it would be so cheap, so I'm going to pick up an allegedly tested Transmission Control Unit for the Maxima since they seem to be on sale for only 7-10 dollars with free shipping and returns. Since I won't need the car to be on, it'll be like the keypad control unit where I should plug in the new box, turn the car to run, and the transmission power light should immediately illuminate. For that price I'm willing to try it while I work on the alternatives this weekend. The overdrive switch works perfectly fine and I can feel in the shifter the inhibitor switch triggering when the car is in park so I don't think it's either of those, but I'm not 100% confident yet.  We'll see! I'm thinking Friday is when I'm going to go to the parts yard and pull the blend door motors. I also checked for any Infiniti Q45s because they share the same climate control module but the only two available are 1 and 3 years too new and they are missing the mechanical blend door for cabin/outside air. What a pain! However, in my digging I discovered a forum in which someone claims to have found a fix for the climate controls: https://forums.nicoclub.com/fix-for-1990-1993-q45-climate-controller-found-t449899.html That'll give me another thing to mess with this weekend. Edit: I knew this stuff wouldn't be too expensive but this is ridiculous:  Edit: This is the idle speed in park after 3 hours of highway driving, I'm still gonna replace the plugs but I think it is finally back to where it should be. It goes from about 1500 - 1200. I wonder if the Haynes manual will tell me what the actual speed should be, I should check. 
Luxrage fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Nov 26, 2019 |
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Nov 26, 2019 00:34
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It should be 700-850 when warm. On pretty much any passenger car. That "let the key snap back" trick to getting the transmission working properly really sounds like the ignition switch. Does it still idle high when the transmission is working properly?
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Nov 27, 2019 14:12
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I put the 'new' ignition switch in and it is acting the same as before. It did lead me on by working the first few times, but then it went back to acting how it has before. However, this ignition feels lightyears better than the one that's in the car, so I'm most likely going to replace it anyways. It requires a bit of soldering if I don't want to take the key tumbler out but only for the two wires that make the 'key in the ignition' dingdong connection. https://i.imgur.com/S7YNVbY.mp4 The transmission controller is marked 'Out for Delivery' and it's almost 4pm so I have no idea where it is. My mailman has a habit of giving our street's mail to the wrong houses so that makes me worried. It's not marked delivered yet so maybe the mail truck finally broke down. That thing sounds worse than the Maxima did when I first got it! The UPS package of my capacitors for the climate control did show up this morning though.  I set about trying to get into the center stack to access the transmission controller if I do get it today and found that to get it out you have to pull the actual center console and everything. That wasn't terrible, as it was just 6 screws. I pulled the radio as well, and the good news is the butcher of a previous owner at least used the harness adapter for this!  Taking that out finds that the climate control is behind the center stack, so it really does have to come out all the way!  You can see the test ignition to the left, it is that strange electrical tape-wrapped box. I'll get a better picture of it next time I'm out there. The bad news is the seller of the $2 repair book cancelled my order. BUT I did find a PDF for a 94 that is almost the same if I just disregard the other engine option that they added in 92 I think.  Here's the diagnostics section for the transmission. As you can see mine fails step 1...  It gives me a good place to start working, though:  I also put a new fuel filter in it, but it's raining on and off pretty hard. If I get that box in before dark I'll continue to tear into it and see if I can do a test fit. If it works I'm gonna head to the junkyard tomorrow and do some more parts pulling! I found out more about the history of the car while having Thanksgiving with my friend: The car was given as payment for some residential construction work to his Grandfather. Luxrage fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Nov 29, 2019 |
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Nov 29, 2019 23:12
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Here's the A/T controller box plug, you pull the left kick plate off next to the gas pedal to get at it.  That purple cable has been an ongoing mystery. It has a bunch of crimp connectors in it and a ferrite bead, but it has no connection anywhere and is floating around in the dashboard. I suspect it is some aftermarket radio crap and maybe it's for the radio's remote. It gets in the way of the gas pedal sometimes and is very annoying. I heard the mail truck go by, so I think he's finally dropped off my box. I'll see what I can do with the limited daylight. That's the ECU underneath the transmission control box. I hope the previous owner never dicked with that screw. 
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Nov 29, 2019 23:43
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I pulled the top plug off for the A/T controller and popped the one I got in the mail in: and.... https://i.imgur.com/OG541rp.mp4 It works! The P light is much brighter now, too. This was sitting cold as well, so I have faith it'll keep working when it is installed properly. I might do the ignition switch swap tomorrow as I'll have to drop the column to pull the center stack out and that's also necessary for the ignition swap. I need to figure out what I'm gonna do with the Maxima and get it back together tomorrow because it's blocking the garage! 
Luxrage fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 00:46
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I pulled out the climate control unit. Looks like the front plate and board slide right out of the housing after you remove two screws and pry off the clips: I did the capacitor swap but it didn't do anything. I was suspicious that mine was either different from the Infiniti ones or had some other deeper problem and it looks like I might just have to wait for a parts car or a junkyard one. After that I set to work pulling the A/T box and installing the new one. That thing took me three hours to get out. The screws are mounted front and back of the box, so I had to take a wrench back up behind the ECU and unbolt it from this big annoying bracket that everything was attached to.  (looking down through the radio hole) There was no way that was going back in how it came out so I double sided taped it and put the front screw in!  I put the car back together and stress tested the transmission controller. It comes on every time and the troubleshooting shows no faults!  I'm still waiting on the hood struts from Rock Auto, but this took so long I didn't have time to go to the Pick n' Pull. Either way I took it out on the street and it's still stumbly in the lower revs, as expected, but it runs great!
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Dec 1, 2019 00:23
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Awesome man keep at it!
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Dec 1, 2019 00:27
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That screw on the ECU isn't as bad as you think. IIRC, You turn it fully clockwise to make it start blinking out stored codes via the check engine light. You turn it fully counterclockwise to put it back into normal mode. It's basically a fancy "spit out the codes" switch. My 99 Altima still had that, pretty neat little feature if you didn't have an OBD2 dongle handy. You can find the codes online, it does a long blink for the first number, fast blink for the second number, then pauses a moment before blinking out the next code (if you have multiples). If there's no codes, it'll just blink out 55 over and over. If it has a knock sensor, it's almost guaranteed to be spitting a knock sensor code. The OEM sensors are  and aftermarket ones tend to be garbage (I learned this the hard way on my Altima, it pulled timing so hard that mileage got cut in half and I couldn't get past ~55 - so I just left it unplugged, it won't trip the CEL on its own on a non-turbo Nissan), and it's fine to ignore on a N/A Nissan.code:
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Dec 1, 2019 16:37
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I'll have to keep that method in mind. The car isn't throwing the CEL at the moment which is surprising, and the light does work since I swapped in the cluster. I'm really puzzled by ">>84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line." never having been thrown since the A/T controller never worked most of the time. There is a rubber covered pink connector hanging down the front of the dashboard. I'm not sure what that is for if this car predates OBD2. Unless it's a Nissan scan tool port or something like that.  The hood struts I ordered came in last night so I put them in the car!  They didn't hold the hood up so I guess they're going back to RockAuto. You do get what you pay for I suppose. At 1/6th the price of the ones at O'reily's I was at least hoping they'd barely hold the hood up or something! I hope Rockauto takes my return since I had to slice the bags open. My game plan for the HVAC is, starting tomorrow, I'm going to basically time travel back in time about a week and start posting on the Maxima forums and give them a sped up version of everything that has happened so far. I know there's someone on the forums that repairs the HVAC controllers so I could hopefully get some guidance (or a replacement) from them. I might also go to the junkyard just to play around with that car and tear it apart more, but I'm starting to run out of things that I can take from that one.
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Dec 3, 2019 16:48
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Luxrage posted:I'll have to keep that method in mind. The car isn't throwing the CEL at the moment which is surprising, and the light does work since I swapped in the cluster. I'm really puzzled by ">>84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line." never having been thrown since the A/T controller never worked most of the time. So that list isn't Maxima-specific - it's general to Nissans of that era. And it won't always throw a CEL (or any light, really) for some codes (such as knock sensors on a NA motor on some models). The FSM you found will list the codes specific to your car (some may be lacking on yours since it's older than the manual, but they never changed the codes, just added on as needed). That connector might be for Nissan's CONSULT diagnostic tool. Normally they're white, gray, beige, or black, but it could be faded to a funky color just from age. What year model is it again? I want to say CONSULT came out for the 89 model year, and most USDM Nissans had it from 89-2000ish. It would be right by the fuse box if it's the diagnostic connector, to the left of the steering column. Only unused plug of that size that you should find in that area. My 99 Altima had both a CONSULT port and OBD-II port, though the CONSULT port was under the hood on mine. I just looked at the ECU screw picture again. I didn't realize it could adjust the idle speed with it, that may be the cause of your high idle. On my Altima and a friend's 240SX, the only function it served was to force it to blink out codes, it wasn't related to idle at all. Maybe fiddle with it a bit to bring the idle down to ~750 when it's warm, though it may be cranked up to cover up an issue with the FITV. I know you're exempt from emissions in TX because of how old the car is (a high idle would be an immediate fail), but it's not great for the transaxle to go into gear at those RPMs. As for not throwing the AT communications code - maybe it did, but Nissan elected to not have it turn on the CEL?
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Dec 3, 2019 18:55
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The book refers to CONSULT quite a few times so I bet that is what that port is for. Being an 89 and full of computer controlled gadgets I would bet that is what it is for. This one doesn't have ABS so it wouldn't be a connector for that. So I went to the junkyard today. Took the Maxima to run another tank of SeaFoam through it. It kept up with the flow of traffic well enough I didn't have dashcam set up in this car so I followed the JDM rulebook and put the GoPro in over-the-shoulder style. I might get a front/rear window cam for it that I'll eventually migrate to the 100 Series LandCruiser that I will someday get. https://i.imgur.com/YUq4zdf.mp4 edit: I'm not doing anything crazy over the speed limit here, it's like 80 in a 70, but I don't really know what SA's policy is on posting stuff like speeding. Anyways, I got to the yard and, as always, I'm the only person who has taken any parts off of the maxima so far. I'm really gutting it at this rate!    I got the rear seatbelts out with relative ease:  I also grabbed the rear finishing panel which they only charged me $15 for  It isn't the same, but I didn't think that would be a problem. It was only held on with 8 easy to get to nuts anyways!  I don't think it looks as cool, but I'd rather have mismatched than broken! Maybe I should go back and get the taillights as well...  I ran out of daylight but I did get one seatbelt in. For some reason the ones at the yard came out so nice, these were so hard to remove I destroyed a cheap ratchet in the process. The bolts were pretty heavily seized on only the left side. I got the left replacement in but it needs some adjustment to retract properly! 
Luxrage fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Dec 5, 2019 |
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Dec 5, 2019 01:52
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Put the new belts in and they both work great. They're not blue, but whatever! I'd rather have mis-matched than not working! The front brakes are starting to screech, I'm sure they're gonna need replacing. I'm gonna clean my garage today so I'll have to shuffle all the cars around.
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Dec 5, 2019 19:18
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Looks good, but I think I'd go get the tails to go with it, or a different filler. I love being able to play Legos with all the old cars and options at the junkyard.
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Dec 11, 2019 08:38
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Sgt Fox posted:Looks good, but I think I'd go get the tails to go with it, or a different filler. This. If that chrome strip wasn't there, it'd work a lot better.... Luxrage posted:https://i.imgur.com/YUq4zdf.mp4 It's 75, if you're not doing 80 you're doing 10. Though you have balls speeding through Allen  I think I got more tickets in Allen vs any other suburb; I made drat sure to just go with the flow there (ESPECIALLY around that exit).As for the transmission working well... if it's spent years in 3rd gear, then the clutches haven't seen poo poo for use in years and should be good for a long time. I'd expect the fluid to be pretty burnt from the torque converter having to deal with that (lots of heat), but the overall trans should be in great shape. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Dec 11, 2019 |
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Dec 11, 2019 21:29
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Sgt Fox posted:Looks good, but I think I'd go get the tails to go with it, or a different filler. The only thing holding me back from going down there tomorrow and getting those taillights (aside from money at the moment) is I noticed this was part of the removal:  I see the three bolts but trying to remove whatever seal is on it might not be easy in the middle of the parts yard. Although thinking about it, it is probably all dried up by now and probably doesn't do much of anything as far as sealing. I might go next weekend or tomorrow, we'll see how much work on the house I can do today! I had a terrifying gas station encounter of the Tracker a few days ago as well. So most of the encounters with random people I get over the Tracker and the Country Squire are usually normal car enthusiasts / people who had one and such. I even have already ran into a Maxima enthuisast who was on Maxima #7, but sometimes I get some crazies. And this one was up there. I'm in the gas station waiting in line to buy something to drink, when this old dude comes in, and stands about two feet in front of me and just points at me wordlessly... for about ten seconds. This is what he finally said (he's  in this conversation) That yer Tracker? Yeah, why?You got any spare carburetor parts? I need carburator parts for my Tracker. I have a pristine one, only 1900 miles on it but I need carburetor parts.Now, I don't know about this, and I can't find any information on this, but I don't think ANY Tracker/Sidekick was sold carb'd. I can only assume he took the EFI off of it and put a carb on his. I tried to clarify if he was talking about a Samurai, but nope, it's a Tracker. I can't find any parts, there's just no parts anywhere. I got a '91 and I need carb parts.Again, I didn't want to say anything about the carb situation and how I don't think a single US/Canada Tracker/Sidekick is gonna have a carb on it unless someone specifically modded it, but I know there's a bunch of Tracker parts suppliers all over the place with full engines and EFI parts at the ready. I told him about the smashed up '96 that's currently sitting in the same Pick N' Pull as the Maxima. He didn't have a phone so he wrote the number down and said he'd call them for that one's carb...   The only other sketchy Tracker story was I once walked up on a trenchcoat-laden fellow peering into my windows, but it turns out he was an ultra-die-hard Tracker fan so I guess you can't judge on appearances. Luxrage fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 13, 2019 20:05
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I think the early-80s ones are carbed but my memory is not great for these little trucks. Old dudes need to learn about RockAuto, and probably it also isn't the carb. RockAuto says an '86 Samurai 1.3 would have an Aisan-style 2-barrel carb, so chances are the 1.3L (not 1.6L) Sidekick is the same deal, though I only see rebuild kits for that and not full carbs. Pretty much anything Japanese with a small displacement is good to go there, especially Toyotas. Old dudes at gas stations are weird. I had a dude ask me about my NA Miata a few years ago and swore up and down that he'd never seen one of them before. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 13, 2019 20:08
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I bet some of the world-market Sidekicks would have had the carburetor on them, but I can't find much info on those. I think all of the North American market ones built in Canada came with EFI as the only option. I did some digging and found a video of a carburetor converted Tracker and, well,  That air cleaner is just kinda hangin out I guess. I am seeing a few other conversions as well, but everyone seems to use everything from VW Beetle carbs to Toyota ones so he's probably boned on parts unless he knows what it came from.
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Dec 13, 2019 20:18
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Luxrage posted:The only thing holding me back from going down there tomorrow and getting those taillights (aside from money at the moment) is I noticed this was part of the removal: Get a box cutter (the kind with a sharp blade that slides out). Either a brand new one, or one with a new blade. Slice the seal, it should cut through it like butter. If not, just cut the sheeting - you can cut new plastic and use new sealant easily enough. Worst case get a $3 Walmart scraper that uses a razor blade, and use the corner of it to cut the seal. You'd be amazed what a sharp cutter can get through. I say this as someone who uses one for 8-13 hours a day for work, changing the blade either daily or every other day. I'd also be loving shocked if your car even has those. The junkyard one MIGHT, yours very likely doesn't.
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Dec 13, 2019 20:50
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Since there is a lot of Maxima talk and STR might know...I have a Nissan bluebird wagon and the fans aren’t blowing. I know where the blower motor relay is under the hood but anyone know of one of these is a fuse related to that I could check first?
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Dec 13, 2019 21:21
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I tried using google's photo translate for that, but it really doesn't like vertical text so I didn't see one that stuck out as a blower. My grandma had a bluebird in Scoltand so maybe there is a UK fuse cover you can find on UK ebay or something that would have that in english? Well, I did it. I went down to the junkyard for what I hope is the last time for Maxima stuff. We'll see, though! So pulling those taillights out was pretty simple, but good god was that black stuff nasty. It came down to just taking the three nuts off and pushing on the screws to pop it off.  https://i.imgur.com/iHwaTWH.mp4  Annoyingly the backplate that has all the electrical wasn't interchangeable since the lamp sizing for the turn/reverse lights are different so that cost me an extra 20 bucks. All-in-all, it cost me about $50 for this. I did find that you can install the backplates backwards. It swaps the reverse and turn signals which I guess makes sense!  Like all of my junkyard expeditions, I got home right at 5:30 so I only had enough daylight to get one of them on and see how it looked. It looks a lot nicer! Depending on how busy things are I might do the other one over lunch at work tomorrow since it is such a fast conversion. The light plate just plugs in to the car so I can swap the bulbs and pop it on easy. The left taillight has a scuff on it from I assume when they were positioning the car at the yard and the right one has a tiny bit of the black plastic surround broken off that I can fix with RTV  Also, as you can see, my classic plates came in! Now it's a stylish jalopy! Luxrage fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Dec 15, 2019 |
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Dec 15, 2019 03:55
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Why couldn't they use a loving gasket like everybody else?  everdave posted:Since there is a lot of Maxima talk and STR might know...I have a Nissan bluebird wagon and the fans aren’t blowing. I know where the blower motor relay is under the hood but anyone know of one of these is a fuse related to that I could check first? Check out https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-altima-factory-service-manuals.html - find one for the same year or the next year Altima, the fuse layout may be similar.
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Dec 15, 2019 04:21
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everdave posted:Since there is a lot of Maxima talk and STR might know...I have a Nissan bluebird wagon and the fans aren’t blowing. I know where the blower motor relay is under the hood but anyone know of one of these is a fuse related to that I could check first? It's the one on the bottom all the way to the right of that picture. It says 'エアコン', aircon (eakon). Edit: the one next to it is heater.
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Dec 15, 2019 05:07
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STR posted:Why couldn't they use a loving gasket like everybody else? Subaru also used tail light goop in that era. Windo-Weld ribbon is the easiest way to replace it.
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Dec 15, 2019 05:33
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Minnesota Mixup posted:It's the one on the bottom all the way to the right of that picture. It says 'エアコン', aircon (eakon). The aircon one is probably just for the compressor. Heater is probably for the interior fan. I'm not entirely sure he was talking about the interior HVAC fan, or the radiator fans, since he mentioned fans (plural), and mentioned an underhood relay (which is 99% for a radiator fan).
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Dec 15, 2019 06:46
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There, once the sun hits it for a few hours that sealant just pulls off like bubblegum: 10/10 didn't even have to pull off any trim, a true 5min job. Replaced some bulbs while I was in there, too. Do I like them as much as the previous full-wrap turn signals? Not really but these are larger and more clear. I also noticed when I plugged the wrong panel in that the LED bulb I got for the reverse lights work as turn signals so I miiight swap them just to have ultra noticable turn signals. My neighborhood turn-in is off of a 60mph road and I've almost been rear-ended several times already turning in. At this point the next course of action is to get the muffler patched. I don't know how much will need to be done so I'm going to hold off on that for a bit since my cat needs spayed. She's keeping me up all night howlin' and other wild cat things! The front end is also making more and more noise the more I drive it, various squeaks and clunks and clicks and things so I'm hoping once I get the muffler patched I can more clearly hear what's going on up there. Luxrage fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Dec 15, 2019 |
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Dec 15, 2019 19:45
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If it's just the muffler, go have a non-chain exhaust shop put a "turbo" muffler on. It'll annoy the neighbors a little more without being brappy or loud. (and it'll look stock)
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Dec 15, 2019 22:06
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Minnesota Mixup posted:It's the one on the bottom all the way to the right of that picture. It says 'エアコン', aircon (eakon). Thanks! The engine fan works, just inside fans don’t do anything. Found a relay under the hood labeled blower  Wanted to check any fuses first...will check those air/heater fuses tomorrow, thanks again! 
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Dec 16, 2019 03:00
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No tach?  There's a good chance the blower is just seized from lack of use, with that kind of mileage/km on it. If you can get to the blower (which will, at the least, require some contortion under the dash, a lot of swearing, and yanking some poo poo apart), you might try spinning it to see if it'll free up. Also, try putting it on high - if it works on high, but no other setting, then the resistor is fried.
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Dec 16, 2019 16:20
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Just wanna say thanks for bringing back memories - my first car was a '90 Maxima GXE. I converted it to a 5 speed when the trans crapped out 6 months after I bought it. That car rocked/sucked.
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Dec 16, 2019 17:12
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As someone that's attempted a manual conversion once (on my old Integra), and aborted when I realized how far over my head I was... props. That's a pain in the rear end. A 5/6 speed Maxima is so much more fun than the automatic. Same goes for the 1st and 2nd gen Altimas - I drove a friend's 01 Altima automatic several times, then got a 99 Altima with a 5 speed. There was no comparison, the 5 speed was downright fun to drive, while the automatic was almost as slow as my automatic Outback. Even more fun once I threw an 01 gearbox in after the original poo poo the bed (00-01 manuals got a somewhat shorter final drive, definitely made the butt dyno feel like it was a lot quicker - and after the swap, it would spin the tires through most of 1st, and I could still chirp them going into 3rd... on the original, it could do a decent 1 wheel peel if I abused the clutch, but definitely no 3rd gear chirp, only 2nd gear chirp).
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Dec 16, 2019 18:38
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STR posted:No tach? It actually supposedly only has 19k original KM...that is backed up with the export certificate and road inspections but who knows... It doesn't work on any setting, I will try getting to it and giving it a spin see if it will work
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Dec 16, 2019 18:54
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Worst case, you're already replacing the blower motor anyway. So getting to it and giving it a shove won't hurt.
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Dec 16, 2019 21:06
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Best case it works when you free it, worst case it's dead. Best-worst case it makes an amazing screech noise and then dies! Do you have any pictures of the outside of the car, I'd love to see it!
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Dec 17, 2019 00:17
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So I was running late for work yesterday so I took my roomate's car as he parks outside the house and I can leave quickly. His car is worth quite a few posts worth of content as in exchange for copious amounts of housework I told him I'd fix up his car for him. More on that later. Anyways, I get in the car and as soon as I turn it on I'm greeted with a familiar sight, his transmission is in limp mode and can no longer access 5th gear:  I've done this so many times, I have it down to muscle memory: Pull out the USB VAGCOM adaptor and plug it in,  pull up the software on my laptop and scan the transmission codes and find the one fault it has:  clear it, and I'm good for another four months. From what I've read, these cars use hall effect sensors to tell transmission shifter position for the manual shift mode and other settings. This is also located right below the cupholders so they get contaminated and full of crap. If no sensors read or two read at once when the car starts, it immediately cripples the car and you aren't supposed to be able to clear it without dealer doing it themselves with the VW reader. I'll type up a full essay on all that I've done to this car and how I took it from this abused, duck taped, zip tied, oil burner:  to this clean, showroom-looking, oil burner:  edit: searching google images for B5 Passat stuff a while back gave me this image, and it couldn't be any more true: 
Luxrage fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 20:59
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| # ? May 4, 2024 19:25 |
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So I told myself I wouldn't go back to the Pick n' Pull in South Dallas for any more Maxima parts since I've gotten just about everything I could off of that car. But.. I really REALLY want to look at this ambulance so I might go down there tomorrow. There's one part I could still get from that Maxima and that's the high mount brake light interior bulb housing since that one is melted on the Maxima. I've also done some deep thinking at work yesterday and I think I'm going to try to buy that 1972 Buick Skylark off of my friend's family. I want to go look at it to check the body, but it is parked on concrete so I'm hoping the rust isn't too bad (it is Texas so I have my hopes that it is all surface level). This was in a previous post but it's the only picture I have. It is wild that you can order just about everything for these out of a catalog:  It's my friend's grandfathers. I thought he had passed away since I have never seen him but he is very much alive and that might complicate things. I'm super broke at the moment, and I'm supposed to be buying a 98' - 02' Toyota Landcruiser (in blue, green, or red) so this might not happen for a while still.
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Dec 27, 2019 02:30
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