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Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

Out of curiosity I looked up if tire siping is still a thing and it seems that it is. So Michelin drops a few million on R&D when developing something like the Pilot A/S 3+ but you're telling me that you're gonna make the tire better with this one trick they don't want you to know about which is cutting the gently caress out of the tread? Yeah, okay. Maybe on very worn tires (which you should replace) or some kind of bottom of the barrel budget tire with a tread designed by a coven of doulas.

On actual tire talk: I got a set of Potenza RE980s which replaced a set of OEM Dunlop SP5000s. The RE980s handle better and have excellent wet and dry traction but they're very noisy. Another unpleasant surprise was a very real fuel efficiency hit of about 1.2 MPG, at least as far as the car tells me. A tire's rolling resistance can impact fuel consumption but I always figured that sort of thing was in the range of 1% or less but this hit is more like 3%. Oh, and for snow/ice they won't get you killed, but Bridgestone's claims of, "this time we get snow/ice traction right!" don't really pan out. Every manufacturer seems to make similar claims whenever they refresh their all season products but I don't think I've ever come across one that can get anywhere near a dedicated snow tire for performance.

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Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

Modern tire design has it all wrong:



Also I feel like the OP really ought to have a screen cap from the movie Rubber.

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

MrOnBicycle posted:

Of course got a flat tire on my rear left. Brand new Goodyears as well. Seems to be a slow leak.
Tire places and mechanics that do tires here do something they call (directly translated) "umbrella repairs" that are supposed to be permanent. Might be hard to answer, but can tire repairs generally be trusted? It's about 40-50% of the cost of a new tire.
Also, my car has one of those lovely repair kits so I am praying for it to for once work and get me to a tire shop...

I don't understand the cost part of this post, but as the other posters noted if the "umbrella" method involves a combined patch/plug it is a very reliable and safe patching method if done correctly. Around here such a tire repair should only run around $20-25, so unless you're running some sort of weird tires made out of cardboard a patch/plug costing 40-50% of a new tire sounds like a harsh ripoff.

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

A few words on tires:

Tread wear warranties are riddled with clauses and tbh for pretty good reason: The tire companies can't make you align your suspension, stop you from driving on lovely roads, prevent you from driving like a maniac, make you repair damaged suspension components, and they sure as poo poo
didn't put that screw in the path of your daily commute. In that sense the tread life warranties they offer act more like vague suggestions for how long the tire should last under nearly perfect conditions across a general homogeneous collection of vehicles. As a result getting a warranty adjustment on tread life is pretty difficult and buying based on tread life is kinda silly. That said if you scream loud enough you can probably get a prorated adjustment just to get you out of the shop because you're an rear end in a top hat and you're pissing everyone off.

Modern tires are really loving tough. When they get punctured it's usually some piece of metal or weirdly shaped rock that gets hit just right. Also in an otherwise perfect tire/rim setup a slow leak can develop at the valve stem or along the bead seal where the tire meets the rim. In general a healthy tire and rim can loose one pound of air pressure per month. Also remember that temperature directly fucks with pressure readings (tp=nr(Volkswagen ruined it everyone)x or some poo poo, go look up gas laws) so when the first big freeze of the season hits and all your pressure sensors go off it's probably because you're low on pressure to start with and the cold snap put you below the alert threshold. A tire at rest overnight is "cold", a tire that has been driven at least a mile is "hot". This will change the pressure readings so plan accordingly.

Also your recommended tire pressure is not on the tire itself, it's defined by the car. The tire will usually have a "maximum load at PSI x" molded into the sidewall. This is NOT the pressure to use, instead you need to the use the pressure indicated by the placard in your vehicle's door flange, or A/B pillar.

TPMS - Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems - Are now mandated by NHTSA and come in two general flavors: Active sensors mounted in each wheel at the valve stem. This has the advantage of telling the driver which specific wheel is low (if the manufacturer chooses to make that level of detail available), but it also makes the valve stem assemblies more expensive and if a sensor goes bad it's just loving annoying. The other method is leveraging Automatic Braking System sensors to detect a deflated tire when rotational velocities start to differentiate over a threshold on an axle. This method has fewer points of failure but also doesn't know which specific tire has a problem.

Why is TPMS a thing? - I'm glad you asked! For this we wind the clock back to 1998-ish where our two asswipe players prepare to do minor stupid things that compound into majorly lovely stupid things: Ford Motor Company and Firestone Inc. Back then Ford was looking to sell as many SUVs as they could, and don't be fooled the the SUVs they were peddling then were total trash: Second generation Ford Explorers. Not like the police package Explorers of 2017+ these things were truly piles of loving poo poo. There's a reason you don't see them around much in TYOOL 2019: They either broke or got eaten by cash for clunkers. So Ford is designing these poo poo buckets, and getting so high on their own farts they start co-branding with Eddie Bauer editions and what not, some engineer asks while in a cocaine induced haze, "HEY HOW CAN WE MAKE THESE THINGS RIDE SMOOTHER?!" Another engineer responds, "We could soften the suspension?" to which previous engineer, now doing rails of coke off of various interior pieces, "NO THAT TAKES MONEY. LET'S JUST DEFLATE THE TIRES A BUNCH!" So engineer two goes to Firestone whom, at the time, was selected as the OEM tire provider.

They ask Firestone, "Yo, dudes, we need to smooth out the ride on our total poo poo bucket SUV and want to do it the laziest way possible by dropping tire pressure. Let's say 235/75R15 at 26psi. Whatchoo think about that?"

The Firestone engineers put down the dice from the D&D game and pondered the question. They ultimately came back to say, "Operating at 26 PSI is the bare minimum for safe operation. We do not recommend that you make this the required inflation pressure for this particular application."

Ford did it anyways. A whole bunch of people died. Everyone hates Firestone. And now we have TPMS.

Fabulousity fucked around with this message at 08:23 on May 3, 2019

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

https://twitter.com/TeamPPODerby/status/1178672434200887296

:pwn:

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

sharkytm posted:

Probably just pulled the valve stem core. The real question is WHO the shop had do the above-referenced procedure.

I had to do one of these once where it was one single giant bubble that ran along a third of the tire circumference. Ideally I suppose you'd have a gripper tool and a valve core remover at the end of a long pole for this sort of thing but that would mean spending money on tools in the name of safety and that's very un-:capitalism: so we can't have that. In the end I put on a full face mask and went in with a core remover figuring that was guaranteed to work vs. trying to get in there and tear out the whole valve stem which might take multiple attempts. Then you run and wait.

Oddly the only tire that I ever saw blow up was a brand spanking new one where the sidewall ruptured when it was being inflated for the first time. The guy mounting it got a minor laceration on his upper lip from a liberated sidewall cord. Out of all the things that can kill you in a shop I think coil springs are the only thing scarier than tires.

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

There is definitely a body count associated with split rims. :black101: And that's just the way they like it. :black101:

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

Nohearum posted:

Is there a formula for calculating the correct tire pressure when you change tire size?

My Mazda came with P215/45R18 tires, and the recommended pressure is 36 psi. I just ordered winter tires that are P205/55R17. Do I need to account for the change in tire volume/contact patch area?

What specific Mazda is it? The information might be readily available in the car's manual if the 17" rim size is available in other trim levels. Check the specifications section in the manual, it's probably the last chapter. For example 2018 Mazda3s were sold with 16" and 18" wheel options and both sizes and the required pressures are provided in the manual. Mazda provides manual PDFs on their website if you don't have the physical one handy.

If your new size is not in the manual then you need to get your hands on a fitment guide from a tire manufacturer. I tried some quick Googling and came up empty handed though so you might need to visit a tire shop.

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

LRADIKAL posted:

Is there a way for me to decide when to put winter tires on? When it starts raining? When the temps get below 45? When snow is threatening?

Just watch the weather? Real time conditions for just about every pass in the Pacific Northwest is readily available and 5 day forecasts these days are quite accurate. If your winter tires are studded note that WA state only permits them to be on vehicles between November 1st and March 31st.

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

Preoptopus posted:

You should do it when everyone else does it and then get super upset with the guy at the desk cause he cant get you in right away despite the waiting room full of people patiently waiting their turn. But your special cause how the gently caress are you gonna make it home to Vail with these bald tires its snowing up there right now arnt you getting how your problem is my problem?!?!?!
Thats the best time to do it.


:suicide:

Bonus points if you bring in your own set of loose unmounted tires that have cracking oxidized sidewalls, just above legal limit of tread left, damaged bead seals, and are full of muddy rain water and spiders then have a tantrum when the shop won't touch them. +1 style point if you claim the shop did the swap for you last year despite you nor the shop having any record. +2 points if you claim you bought the tires from the shop even though it's a brand or model they have never sold.

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

Thauros posted:

2. The OEM tire size is 195/45/16 and selection is very limited. Are there any sizes I could safely switch to on the stock wheels that would give a better selection of all season performance oriented tires?

:stare: I think trying plus/minus zero sizes reduces your options even more. What kind of car is it and would getting a new set of rims be something you'd consider?

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

What it looks like when you mount a GoPro inside the drop center of a rim and then mount, inflate, and drive around on a tire:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rILyBg7ZjeI

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

Random tire-ish related story: Once in Minnesota I had to drive through a severe thunderstorm front that basically ensured there was one inch or more of standing water on the roadway at all times due to how unimaginably hard it was raining. On a US highway with a posted speed limit of 60 I was having to keep it under 30 to avoid hydroplaning on P215 tires. Suddenly along the way with lightning flashes happening at a rate of about 1 per second a Geo Metro just loving blasts by me at 60+ like it's dry pavement because those adorable P165 (or 155) bicycle tires let them.

Carry on you crazy Metro and your bicycle tires. Carry on.

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

Trip report on Bridgestone RE980s on a Mazda3 after about 20k miles: They're loud and getting louder. Dry/wet traction and overall handling continue to be astounding but the noise. The noise. The noise. The noise. Either I have a failing wheel bearing or the treads are now generating a low level "growl" noise at highway speeds. gently caress these tires. Going MIchelin next time.

Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

Got Michelin Pilot Sport AS4s and can concur that they are very cool and good.

Also if your tires are so old they don't have a DOT date of manufacture code then they cannot age. Checkmate, tire companies. :pseudo:

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Fabulousity
Dec 29, 2008

Number One I order you to take a number two.

So I got these Michelin PS A/S 4s and they're cool and stuff. Except at about 36-38 MPH and again almost precisely at 67 MPH I'm getting a weird sound. Not really sure how to describe it, it's like a high frequency resonating howl. The howl has a pretty set rate at fading in and out at a little less than a second and the rate is the same at 37 and 67. It's not super loud so relatively smooth pavement is required to hear it. It doesn't seem to be coming from any particular part of the car and I had the dealership take a look and they couldn't find anything mechanically wrong so they just shrugged and said their only guess is the tires. Searching around I'm not finding any specific mentions of this, just scattered old random complaints about the A/S 3.

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