Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Disgruntled Bovine posted:

This is a point I'm rather curious about. I never run OE tires and despite being religious about alignments and maintaining correct tire pressures I still see some situations where I get heavier middle or outside wear as if pressures are incorrect. Should pressures in a non-OE tire be different than the OE tires, and if so, how do you determine what they should be?

I was wondering something similar. My Subaru Impreza came with 205/60/R15s, and I put 205/55/R16s on there with wheels off of a Legacy GT because the OEM size is expensive for the quality you get. Should I be looking at the numbers for an Impreza if the same year with 16” wheels? Or stick with the 32/29 on the B pillar?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



What are the best bang-for-buck all-seasons these days? I hopefully won’t have this car by the time big snow comes around in January or so, so I’m not interested in getting two sets?

P215/60/R16, it’s a Camry hybrid. Also I can’t wait for Tire Rack so I have to be able to get them locally.

How bad is it to get a pair up front on a FWD car if the back ones are still above minimum tread depth? I need to measure, but the rear tires are nowhere near as bad. Yes, I’ll admit to being a terrible car owner that always forgets to do rotations when I do the oil.

I know it’s not optimal, but I need all the money I can get right now because I have to move ASAP, already spent a bunch of money on a storage unit and a parking spot for my second car, staying with a friend after multiple places fell through last minute.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Preoptopus posted:

general altimax rt 43s, cooper touring cs5s, Sumitomo htr po2 ,kumho ecsta, hankook optimo. Most shops should be able to source those.
Personally im a fan of the Generals.
The new school of thought is that its safest that the best tires go on the rear so you dont oversteer in slick conditions. You move the rears to the front and put the new set on the rear. When you burn up whats left of the fronts, get a new set moving the (newer) rears forward.

Thanks, I’ll see if Wal-Mart has any of those. Looks like they’re my only option other than taking it in first thing tomorrow, working from home in the morning, and picking them up and driving to work at lunch. Don’t want to do 22 miles at around 55 on a donut of unknown providence and don’t want to try doing it on a tire with belt showing either. Bolt pattern is different on the Camry than the Subaru so “borrowing” a pair of wheels off that in the interim isn’t an option either.

When it rains, it pours, am I right? Just glad my work is flexible with WFH when someone has car trouble.

Since availability/price is an urgent concern, would 225/55R16s work in place of 215s if all they have for 215/60s is poo poo/super expensive, or is that asking for trouble? I know some cars have different sizes front and back but I don’t know if that’s a purely track thing. I put 205/55R16s on a Subaru in place of 205/60R15s (new wheels obviously) a long time ago, but that was all matching, and that was because the 15 inches were so expensive I could get OG 16” DWSes and all four wheels for the cost of mediocre tires for the 15” wheels. Speedometer was finally accurate too, encouraging my working theory that speedometers are frequently calibrated for the largest wheels/tires available on any trim of the vehicle.

22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jul 4, 2019

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Double-posting due to time being a factor, can I trust Wal-Mart to accurately balance a tire or should I have them just install the new tires and then take it to Big O or Discount Tire or something for balancing tomorrow? I'd be driving it 25 miles or so before then. Not sure if a place will even solely balance a tire without replacing it, I would hope they would if I said "I had wal-mart install them but I don't trust them."

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Ended up not taking it there after all, didn't get there in time. Going to take it to Big O in the morning. I had just heard about wal-marts loving up balancing horribly in the past, this one had a few reviews to the same effect so I decided against them for that reason as well. Rather not pay $10 a corner or whatever they charge and then have to get it done again.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Any recommendations for cheaper winter tires with the priorities being better than all-seasons on snow but mostly driving on cold dry pavement? They’re going on a ‘99 Impreza so it’s either 15 or 16” wheels, 205-215 width, 50-55 or 60-65 aspect ratio depending on 15 or 16” rims.

I also need some either summer tires or summer-focused all-seasons, which I’ll probably be driving on until December because our winters have been getting started extremely late the past 5 years or so. I’d like them to be able to handle dirt/gravel decently but apparently that’s not something that’s marketed specifically.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Actually the OBS came with 205/60R15s, but since those were hard to find I got a set of LGT wheels off of a goon for $100 back in ‘12, and I ran 205/55R16, which is the stock size for the 2.5RS. And actually made the speedometer more accurate, I suspect they just tuned them all for that size and put them on the ones with smaller tires too.

I’d be getting new (used) rims for the winter tires most likely, so that’s why I said 15 or 16 there, I don’t have a strong preference, but some stuff is made for 16 and not for 15.

E: Tire Rack has the General Altimaxes for $250 after rebate for a set of four, and I could cut another $40 off that if I drove to Denver to pick them up from the distribution center. That sounds hard to beat.

E: for summers, I’m kind of stuck between the Hankook Ventus V12 Evo2, General G-Max RS, and BF Goodrich Sport Comp-2s. All the same price within $20-40 for the whole set of 4, all probably have more traction than my 2600lb 2.2l car will require. Any feedback on those?

22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Aug 23, 2019

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Thanks, I’ll go with those for winter. What about the Hankook V12 vs General G-Max RS vs BFG Sport Comp-2s for summer? I’m wondering if maybe they’re overkill for an economy hatchback that will probably get a turbo somewhere around the heat death of the universe, but I can get any of them for roughly $80-90/corner after rebates but before installation. Which seems pretty good, although maybe summers are just cheaper than all-seasons in general. And being able to stop faster and turn safely at a higher speed is still a good thing for emergencies.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



How are the Kumho Ecsta PA-51s? My gut instinct is “bad” but I think that comes from hearing negative things about them 12 years ago, which is plenty of time for a brand to redeem itself.

Discount Tire has a $100 mail in rebate on them so I could get a set for $200 after rebate and picking them up in person. They seem to be kind of mediocre in class, but when said class is ultra high-performance that might not be a bad thing? My frame of reference is Continental DWS, both the original and the 06.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



MrOnBicycle posted:

They placed 5th in Swedish "Vibilägare" (big car magazine that, like many Swedish magazines, do proper tire tests) in 2017. Placed 4th in Swedish ADAC test 2018. So shouldn't be terrible.

In my own tire news I managed to get best in test nordic frictions included in the price of the new car instead of the old tech Kumhos they wanted to include at first. Very pleased.

The PA51s? Maybe it’s because I’m trying to find Swedish results in American Google but I only see the HS51 summer tire.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



How significant is it going from 205 to 195 on width? I know it's roughly .4", but in terms of performance.

I've got two sets of wheels, one 16x6.5", one 15x6.5" (assuming the latter hasn't turned into a pile of rust in my dad's barn). I've been mostly looking at either 205/60R15 or 205/55R16, but I came across some quality tires in 195/65R15 for cheaper than the 205 width. Comparing dimensions that's within a 10th of an inch of the others in height, it's one of the stock sizes for my model year, at 7.7" it should still be wide enough to fit the same wheels, but I've never looked at going narrower. What would the practical difference be on a snow tire going narrower?

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



SeaGoatSupreme posted:

If the difference between the two is a much better tire, I'd go for the 195 hands down. I did something similar with summer tires this spring, it was a measurable amount comfier and more stable in hard corners because: better tire. I'd wager that unless you are dealing with a foot of fresh powder snow daily, it's not going to make it a net negative.

Well, they ended up getting sold out before I could get them, so welp.

Anyone ever use Nokian WR G3s? They seem like the opposite of all-seasons, snows that are made to not suck rear end on dry pavement, which is what I need since between the sun and our snowplow crews snow lasts for a day or so tops around here. They're certified by whatever governing body certifies snow tires in the EU, so they should be good? I can get a set of those in 205/60R15 for $200 shipped, probably another $40 to have them mounted and balanced.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Thanks. I might take some trips up into the mountains, but the highways should be clear and I’m fine going slower on the smaller roads, the friends I have up there will have stuffed tires so I just have to get to their houses pretty much. I don’t need Hakkas or anything.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I will hopefully have new tires waiting for me when I get home. How do I tell which side is out if they're directional? I'm taking them to a shop, I just want to make sure they do it right.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Okay, thanks. Going to have to go pick up the rims from my dad's tomorrow anyway, but it's nice to have them.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I just put Nokian WRG3s on my car, but if I could afford Hakka R2s I would probably have just done that.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Imperador do Brasil posted:

Meh they’ll be six of one and half a dozen of the other. Just both black wheels 🤷🏼‍♂️

Actually I think it will be four of one, a third of a dozen of the other :v:

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Well, now that it's almost June I think I'm out of danger of snow, so I ordered some summer tires to replace my winter-biased all-weather tires. Do I need to get an alignment when I swap them? The rims are 16" rather than 15" like my winters, but they're the same outer diameter within 2-3%. I'm inclined to say no, but it's entirely possible that I've been loving myself over by not doing it in the past. On the other hand, the tire shops I've used in the past probably would have pushed me to get an alignment done by them at the time if they had any justification for it.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Does anyone here install their own tires? I'm wondering if there are any air tools that make it easier than using one of those big spoon things, elbow grease, actual lube, and swearing. I'm about to get an air compressor and I've got an Amazon gift card I haven't had any use for. I see there's a "bead seater" but those all seem to have their own air tanks built in. I just figure if I can use my new obnoxiously loud tool to save $80 whenever I have to get new tires it's worth it.

22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jun 5, 2020

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I actually already have access to a balancing tool, my friend has one for some reason. Maybe because he does offroading, I could see that knocking tires out of balance without destroying the tire/rim?

He's also got a stand for holding the tire while he yanks like hell to break the bead and get the thing off, but I saw how much effort that takes and even though I'm not particularly weak, he's stronger than me and was struggling, so gently caress that. Maybe if it wasn't summer, I'm sweating like a pig doing any physical work outside unless it's 7-8PM, also known as the mosquito hour.

22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Jun 5, 2020

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Yeah, seems like it after seeing how much work it is to do one by yourself with hand tools. That's why I was wondering if there were air tools that made it easier, since it seems like there's air tools to make 90% of everything easier.

I guess if there were my friend would already have one, he's got two air compressors, a welding setup, basically every air tool you can imagine, usually I just ask him if there's a tool I need so I can borrow it, and half the time he volunteers to help as well as bringing the tools. A good friend, but I'm limiting my contact with him because he works at a nursing home and I don't want to get dozens of old people killed.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Question: What's the lowest temperature you should be driving summer tires, assuming dry dirt or pavement roads? I'm getting my tires mounted next week but a couple weeks after that I'm planning on going up into the high country, where apparently the average low is in the 30s and the average high is in the low 70s this time of year. I'm worried that is too low for summer tires, they're Hankook Ventus Evo 12s and the car is a 2.2l NA Impreza, which is going to be extremely low on power at 10k feet elevation, so I'm not going to be doing much in the way of burnouts. My concern is that it's probably going to be high 80s until I start getting up high in the mountains, which is probably going to wear on my winters pretty hard. And since I'm probably going to be car camping, carrying an extra set of tires would not be ideal.

I'm reading that low 40s is the temperature to switch off of summer tires, so would I be good as long as I'm not driving too late?

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Anyone got a recommendation for tire covers for storing my spare set of tires? With the place I moved into I think I'm going to have to stack them on the balcony and I'd rather have them covered by something than just sitting out.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I found out last week that my car's tires are inflated to about 40 PSI instead of the 32 they are supposed to be at. I'm going to let them down to the right pressure, but are there any trouble signs I should check for? I've driven them like 6-8k miles on presumably this pressure since I hadn't checked after they got installed. Uneven treadwear focused on the middle I would guess? I learned my lesson about checking them a couple installations back on my other car because the quick tire shop in town inflated them to 50PSI instead of 30/28 but I didn't think to check this car until I was airing up another car.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Good idea on the spare, and needing to re-check at least a couple times a year. I'm bad about that.

I do know that pressure changes with temperature, but this is definitely an overfilling rather than temperature differential. They're about 25% overfilled and the air density difference between 0f and 100f is about 22%. It's probably not as bad up here where we're lucky to break freezing this time of year as down there where it was a good 60 degrees or so, but still not great and I take this car down to warmer climes fairly often.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Is anyone familiar with GT Radial Champiro snow tires? I can't find too much in the way of reviews that doesn't look like ad copy, they're not super cheap so maybe they're decent but I don't really know tires, just Nokians and Blizzaks. I feel like I've heard the brand name but it's also possible that they just picked a name that sounds close to a reputable brand. I'm looking at a Civic with them on the car and if they're good I'd keep them if I bought the car but otherwise I'd budget for a set of Hakkas to replace them. I live where there's 6-8 months of winter so I don't gently caress around with snow tires.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I'm not sure if this varies by brand or year or anything, let me know if it does. Do TPMS sensors have to be re-programmed at a dealer or can a tire shop do it or is it something you can do with an OBDII scanner? I normally have two sets of wheels and swap back and forth between winter and all season but I've been looking at newer cars that have TPMS and apparently in some cases they need to be reprogrammed and if you don't do that then it throws an error and messes with your stability control for some reason? I don't know, this is all fairly new to me, I've only ever had one new enough car for TPMS sensors or stability control and it was when I drove around on all seasons all the time.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Okay, thanks. I bought a moderately priced Honda Accord because I needed an appliance with how often my formerly reliable Impreza has been going to the shop, doing some research it looks like you need a tool that's $100. I'm taking it in to the shop Tuesday for an alignment, while I'm there I'm going to ask how much resetting costs to see whether it's worth buying it.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Okay, I was under the impression that you had to activate each set in the car's TPMS module whenever you swapped.

Does it seem to anyone like Nokian's supplies are short this year? Maybe I'm just ordering winter tires at the worst time but they're out of stock most places. IIRC they had a factory in Russia so maybe that's the problem. I ended up finding a set of Hakkapeliitta 10s for a decent price but it took me like an hour. I don't like ordering tires from eBay because I've gotten pretty old ones in the past but these were released in 2021 so at most they should be a year old.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



How bad is being at 34PSI on a 32PSI spec? I'm noticing a problem where the tire pressure varies by as much as 4PSI based on elevation. It's causing the TPMS light to go off but I'm worried that having the tires a couple PSI below spec by going down to a lower elevation would be worse than having them slightly high. Obviously I'd like to have it at 32PSI everywhere but I don't want to be letting air out and filling it back up whenever I drive an hour away.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Okay, I was just worrying about accelerated wear. I bought the car from someone who had aired up to 32PSI at about 8-9000 feet and they were down to 28PSI once he was back down at 5000 feet. I felt like I could feel the difference once I aired them up again before I drove back up but maybe that was placebo effect. It might be more like 35-36 PSI currently, it was sleeting when I checked because I noticed the TPMS light was on so I looked quickly using my little $5 tire gauge in order to get out of the weather. It has been a long time since I owned a vehicle with a TPMS and when I did it only went off when a tire was very low, so it's one of the aspects of owning a non-shitbox that I'm trying to get used to.

It's funny Raluek mentions a tire being down to 8PSI, when I bought my dearly departed pickup truck from my dad I was test driving it and was thinking "what the hell is wrong with the steering?" and then I checked the pressure and they were all at about 20 instead of 50. That made a big difference.

E: I do have a Kobalt 24v tire inflator, I just need to charge my batteries for it because it takes a lot of juice and it turns out it has a lot of passive drain for some reason.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Nice, my misdelivered Hakkapeliitta 10 studded just showed up yesterday, so I'm going to try to get them installed in the next week. I've got an alignment check tomorrow since it seems like there might be some accelerated tread wear and I feel like I might be getting a little bump steer.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



fknlo posted:

typing out the size with spaces seems to get the best results? Something like 285 35 19 Michelin worked best for me but then it didn't necessarily show the tires on the sale participants page when I did that. But then it did under a general search so who knows

What I did was type out the brand/model that I wanted and then used the filters on the side. Worked in my case but I can see how it would depend on the seller putting it in right.

Also, small sample size, grain of salt, etc, but I got some really old tires from eBay the second to last time I ordered from them. Like 4 years old, I'm only getting a year or two out of these basically. The time before that I didn't check but doing the math based off of the date code they were 3 years old already. I only ordered from eBay again because A) Nokian's production and supply are hosed by the Russia situation and B) the Hakka 10s just came out last year so there's no way they are older than that.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Not sure if this is the right place for wheels too. A friend just bought a 2016 Tundra that had a halfass offroad build done, he's planning on returning it to stock height and replacing the 18" Fuel wheels and 295 tires with either stock or smaller. We're both of the mind that at least for a truck, the smallest wheel you can get is good because a truck can use extra rubber for the poo poo roads you would take it on when you had no other way to get there. Our seasons are also winter and pothole so that's a factor too. Also 16-17" tires are cheaper than 18" because ???

It looks like normally the smallest it can take are 17" wheels, but I know with rally wheels you can frequently get 15" wheels that are made in a way to fit brakes that would normally require 16" wheels. Is there an equivalent for larger wheel sizes, where a 16" wheel would fit brakes meant for a 17" wheel? If not he'll probably just either buy OEM wheels or 17" wheels.

Also the stock wheel width is 9" for 255mm wide wheels, I've read that for 255mm tires you want a 9" wheel minimum, is that accurate? Figured I might as well check while I'm asking questions.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply