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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Even if you're able to cover the mounting portion, that still leaves you with balancing.

Given how competitive the market is for mounting and balancing, and how expensive the machinery is that makes doing that job not-awful, I don't see any homegamer making that make sense financially in a lifetime.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I have seen super-niche tires that claim they can actually be damaged by being driven on in temperatures like that, but they're the kind of thing you'd have to go out of your way to order for a classic car.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I drove some Pathfinder Sport S AT (Discount branded version of a Kumho tire) in snow once on my old WJ.

Granted I have very little experience in snow but compared to the 2WD SUVs spinning their tires left and right around me, I never felt traction limited unless I did something like stomp the throttle.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





It sounds like their quality is vastly improved. My mom had a set of Nankangs on her GMT400 Suburban a bit under 20 years ago and literally all four of them died of structural failure. One started chucking tread at highway speed.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If "the dump" is like mine where you could very well end up driving through some sloppy stuff, I'd probably go low end all terrain with a snow rating. Discount Tire Pathfinder S AT, Falken Wildpeak, something like that. You really won't notice much difference on dry pavement compared to an all season but you will notice a big difference in low traction scenarios.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





M. Night Skymall posted:

I'm also curious what A/T tires people like. I'm leaning towards the Falken Wildpeak A/T3Ws because they seem super popular and are well reviewed, but it's hard to tell what the actual difference is between the various A/Ts.

There's still a big range within A/T tires of "how A/T is it". I've had some that were slightly knobbier than highway tires.

I had the AT3Ws on my Grand Cherokee at the end, I liked them a lot. I like my BFG AT KO2s better offroad, but I liked the AT3Ws everywhere else more.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





4mm is closer to 5/32 than 4/32, but either way you're near the end of that tire's life. 2/32 is the legal limit where the tire is considered completely worn out by the industry (and any inspections you have to go through). But at 4/32 you'll start seeing a significant reduction in performance in conditions other than dry pavement, and that's without even accounting for the rubber hardening as it ages.

In other words, if you aren't in a position where you must get every mile out of those tires to save as much money as possible, you're pretty much at the perfect time to start shopping for new tires. Namely you have the luxury of waiting for a sale, or buying a tire that might take a couple weeks to get to you instead of what's on the shelf now.

I'm replacing the original tires on my 2018 Canyon even though they're still at 7/32, because thanks to aging the rears are starting to chunk:


The fronts don't have any damage like that but they have significant cracking in the same tread blocks. I'm gonna try the Bridgestone Dueler AT RH S since those highway-tread Goodyears aren't great at finding grip even on packed dirt. Also, Costco has them for $150 off right now.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





You'd probably have the same amount of variance in diameter by choosing one manufacturer over another while staying at the same size.

If the wheel is wide enough to take the wider tire and there's no clearance problems, I'd run the 245s.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Alternatively, if the issue is just your own driveway - consider a set of curb ramps?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I mean, I can't imagine that many people are swapping wheels on a Hyundai just because they want to.

Jeep wheels, on the other hand, you can pretty much trip over every day on CL/FBM for slightly above scrap value.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I never had my '13 CR-V in snow but I never found a tire for it that I liked better than the Continental Cross Contact that came on it. They were usually pretty cheap, too.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Racing Stripe posted:

I'm gonna need new tires pretty soon, but I've probably got a few thousand miles before it's urgent. Is my best money-saving (or best value, let's say) play to order from Tire Rack and pay someone to put them on the car for me? If I go to a used tire place, are they likely to give me anything for my old tires if they're on the top end of the yellow rating from the dealership?

If I go to Firestone or whatever, is there a separate charge for getting rid of the old tires and putting on the new set, or is the price they quote you for the tires themselves inflated (ha!) a bit because the cost of those other services are built in to the price of the tire?

I wouldn't expect much, if any, kickback on your used tires. At best if you go to a shop that deals in those, they'll waive the disposal fee the state usually requires on new tire purchases.

The up-front pricing I've seen from every tire shop around is always just the tire itself, excluding mounting, balancing, state required fees, and road hazard warranties. In the distant past tire shops would pad the tire price and offer mounting and balancing for dirt cheap, but then when everyone started showing up with TireRack tires for less, they stopped. You might be able to find a better deal on TireRack versus some local shops, but I'd be surprised if they actually beat a major retailer like Discount Tire or Costco.

Any tire shop worth dealing with will let you price the whole thing out online, installation and fees included, so you can properly compare total versus total.

There's also Walmart but it's a loving crapshoot if their tire centers can figure a drat thing out. I usually only go to them to mount trailer tires as a result.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If there's truly zero signs of any age-related wear - no cracking no matter how minor - and the rubber still feels rubbery to the touch then I'd trust them for maybe one last season.

I'd also keep an extremely close eye on them.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Ranzear posted:

I feel like you mention this on a certain anniversary on purpose...

I mean, it applies as much to an economy car as it does to a Carrera GT...

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





How about 275/40R20? It'll be slightly narrower and shorter but probably within the realm of the deviation between different manufacturers on the same 285/40R20.

I run 245/45R20 and 275/40R20 as a staggered setup on my C10, though admittedly only ever with summer tires.

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Feb 15, 2022

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I was very happy with the AT3Ws I had on my WJ. They're a good choice.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





What car is this that has different specs from two sources?

I think everything I've owned in recent history makes a point to specifically not list a pressure in the manual - they always default to "inflate to the door jamb sticker" since the pressures might vary with different wheel/tire option packages.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





No, that absolutely is a "fix this now" problem, along with inspecting the alignment and suspension to make sure you aren't going to murder your new tires. A 2020 Subaru shouldn't have massive wear on just one tire unless something else is broken.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Alarbus posted:

Sure, but the cheapest tires at Costco are still pretty decent.

This is worth reiterating. Costco only usually has two or three options for any given tire size and the cheapest option they have is still a good major-manufacturer tire.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Truck tires are following every other vehicle where selection and pricing on the smallest possible wheel sizes are worse, not better. 20 years ago I'd have agreed that smallest possible rim = best, but these days I doubt there's enough price difference between 15" and 17" tires to be worth the headache.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





UTQG treadwear is basically bullshit and at best is only comparable within a single brand.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Nthing the "summer tires are a poor choice in real winter conditions". Ages ago I had to drive a W210 Benz on Kumho summer tires in Flagstaff, AZ during the winter. The amount of snow on the ground would probably be laughable by any other winter standard, but even where the road was dry it was so cold that those tires were just rocks.

The drive on a snow-covered road down and up a ravine remains probably the second sketchiest thing I've ever done in a car and in hindsight there was a massive amount of luck involved in not pinging that thing off of the armco barriers. By the time I crested the hill I was doing maybe 15mph, sliding at a 30 degree angle to my actual (and intended) direction of travel, and even the tiniest kiss of throttle was sending the traction control into spasms.

My brother drove the same road later that day in a Volvo V70 XC with winters on and you would've thought they were slicks on a hot track.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Falken AT3W, possibly? I had them on my WJ and while I was mostly concerned with how well they did off-road, they never gave me any trouble on-road and seemed to have all kinds of grip in the wet and very rare snow driving.

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