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Wandering Orange posted:Is the gas tank vent clogged? Have you run it with fresh fuel lines out of a different container? I believe it has its own return, as the carb has a second hose that goes back into the tank. Either way, I tried running it with the cap off and nothing changes. This am, I tried relieving the hole in the pass thru for the gas line, and it also made no difference. In fact, now it does not seem to want to start at all. I am using the canned 50:1 mix so it cant be ethanol either.
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Oct 23, 2020 13:29
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Motronic posted:That is was what I thought I was hearing. Yeah, it makes sense. Happy to go through the carb again - I did the following: -Removed from engine (disconnecting the knob for the choke, the throttle linkage, the fuel line, and the primer bulb line) -Drained gas by pushing the drain valve on the bottom of the carb. Realized I didn't have enough towels for how much was in the bowl, spilled gas on the floor. -Removed bowl by unscrewing the non-adjustable jet on the bottom. -Inspected, noted that the assembly appeared clean (no gunk build up, nothing that looked weird). The snowblower has always been run with ethanol free gas. -Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere I could get it into. -Cleaned the tiny holes on the main jet bolt (poked a small piece of copper wire through. Nothing was dislodged, there was no issues getting the wire through, didn't feel like any buildup anywhere). Put it all back together. Realized that the reason it wouldn't run on starter fluid is I was spraying it through the carb directly against the closed throttle plate, then turning the throttle on and trying to start it. When I re-tested and realized what I'd done, it started on starting fluid. I'm going to mess around with it more tomorrow, want me to pull the carb apart and take pictures of everything? I've looked for a cheap replacement carb, but the ones of amazon that list compatibility with the tecumseh part number don't match dimensionally with the port sizes on the carb (i.e. where the carb mounts to the engine - the bolt spacing will be correct, but the carb opening itself is much smaller than the original one. The descriptions also seem to indicate a max of 5hp on the ones I've found, and this is a 12.5hp engine). Is it worth grabbing one that doesn't seem to match and seeing if it works any better? If I go for an OEM replacement it's like $200CAD, and the parts store guy didn't have any alternates in his system. He was surprised by that, as in his words 'usually I can get a cheap one for like 30$, but doesn't look like there's anything available for this one'.
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Oct 23, 2020 19:18
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I think I figured out my leaf blower issue. When I replaced the fuel line I foolishly cut the new hose too long. The fuel filter/pickup was pushed across the tank and was sitting above the fuel level and starving the engine. Ni shortened it and now it works.
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Oct 24, 2020 15:22
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Would this be a suitable place to ask about a 50cc scooter? A friend of mine has asked if I can give him a hand to get a scooter running again. Its a Suzuki SJ50QT. I believe its a 2 Stroke but it has been sitting for 10 years. Its got less than 1000kms on it so should be in decent nick I thought. Today we pulled all the front fairings off so we could remove the ignition barrel to get a new key cut. Located and ordered a replacement battery. Checked the spark plug, little dirty/oily but not worn at all. But found the spark plug lead broken, it seems to be a one piece unit with the coil. Unless I can graft a new lead onto it, will have to find one. Next plan is sort the coil Fit new battery Once we have key, we can unlock the seat and strip all the plastic off the rear drain the fuel tank Try to start it Replace oil? Hoon ??? PROFIT? Any advice of parts or hoses/seals that will need to be replaced? Im gussing the carb will need some tinkering?
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Nov 7, 2020 10:54
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My Snapper mower had some kind of problem with the seat sensor failsafe that shuts it off if you stand up, so my dad ended up bypassing it so it lets you actually stand up. He did it by just detaching the wires and bundling them together I think. The issue is ever since then (four years ago) it's seemed like the battery drains faster. Could that have caused some kind of electrical problem?
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May 12, 2021 02:20
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The fact that your battery is 4 years older (and how old does that make it now?) probably has everything to do with that. I've not seen a seat safety switch that is powered when the key is off.
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May 12, 2021 02:36
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Motronic posted:The fact that your battery is 4 years older (and how old does that make it now?) probably has everything to do with that. The current battery is only two years old (exactly). Already can't hold a charge. Has to be charged before every time we start the mower.
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May 12, 2021 06:34
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NotNut posted:The current battery is only two years old (exactly). Already can't hold a charge. Has to be charged before every time we start the mower. Bring it to the parts store and see if they'll put it on the carbon pile load tester for you. It will take an hour or so. Or charge it and disconnect it then see if it's good the next time you go to use it. You could have some sort of parasitic draw (not the seat) but it's much more likely to be a bad battery. Once they die they're typically damaged/reduced capacity.
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May 12, 2021 16:12
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Seems like the typical mower battery would have a tough life, doesn't get charged for a week or two at a time, and spends half the year unused possibly stored in the cold.
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May 12, 2021 18:34
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Portable Generator question. I need to replace the plugs (electrical variety) on a generator, they are non-GFCI if this makes a difference. Can I just go to any hardware store and buy some new receptacles or is there some sort of fancy electricity brick-a-brack that I need for one that is used in a generator?
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May 31, 2021 13:10
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What would cause a 4 stroke mower engine to start with a spray of starter fluid but continues to run on its own. My mom somehow rebuilt the carb on this thing and says the primer bulb also doesn't have any pressure to it (makes sense, no fuel pressure, no starting). I'm in a different state but heading over there at some point in June, what could cause the primer bulb to not have pressure?
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May 31, 2021 19:49
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two_beer_bishes posted:What would cause a 4 stroke mower engine to start with a spray of starter fluid but continues to run on its own. My mom somehow rebuilt the carb on this thing and says the primer bulb also doesn't have any pressure to it (makes sense, no fuel pressure, no starting). I'm in a different state but heading over there at some point in June, what could cause the primer bulb to not have pressure? Probably a leak somewhere? Did she hook it up backwards maybe? Not talking poo poo about your mom, its dope that she rebuilt a carburetor, but everyone makes mistakes.
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May 31, 2021 21:40
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two_beer_bishes posted:What would cause a 4 stroke mower engine to start with a spray of starter fluid but continues to run on its own. My mom somehow rebuilt the carb on this thing and says the primer bulb also doesn't have any pressure to it (makes sense, no fuel pressure, no starting). I'm in a different state but heading over there at some point in June, what could cause the primer bulb to not have pressure? Hoses are routed wrong. There's like three hoses for primer bulbs, so there are six possible ways to have them connected to the other things in the fuel system. Some are obviously wrong (gas tank back to itself) but the others aren't. Verify the new primer bulb inputs and outputs.
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May 31, 2021 21:42
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Awesome, thanks guys. I'm actually surprised it works at all. She's ambitious with trying stuff like this but with a low success rate.
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May 31, 2021 21:48
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Does such a thing exist to retrofit a hand recoil starter to a hex head of some sort so you could use a power driver to do it?
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May 31, 2021 22:01
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slidebite posted:Does such a thing exist to retrofit a hand recoil starter to a hex head of some sort so you could use a power driver to do it? Absolutely. Project Farm on YouTube does it with a corded drill all the time. https://youtu.be/BPdz6BMj8EA
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Jun 3, 2021 03:27
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two_beer_bishes posted:Awesome, thanks guys. I'm actually surprised it works at all. She's ambitious with trying stuff like this but with a low success rate. Is it a briggs? Primer circuit/gasket can fail. The fix believe it or not is a piece of tape. Should add, it's for styles that have a backing plate. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFMGKUT7BnA Can't find the video where a sticker is used along with the old gasket for the quick fix. But this video gives an idea what is going on. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 14:55
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C-Bangin' it 
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My power washer won't start today! It's a generic/cheap 4 stroke engine with no primer bulb. Never had any trouble in the past, but I haven't used it in at least 6 months. Swapped the spark plug for a known-good to no avail. When I spray ether in the intake and pull the recoil starter it will catch once or twice but that's it. Fuel lines?
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Aug 14, 2021 13:37
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~Coxy posted:My power washer won't start today! Carb is full of gunk from sitting with untreated ethanol gas would be my first suspect. Remove, disassemble the whole thing on a bench, clean everything (especially the float needle and fuel jet), put it back together and reinstall. Drain all the rest of that gas out first.
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Aug 14, 2021 15:02
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Motronic posted:Carb is full of gunk from sitting with untreated ethanol gas would be my first suspect. Remove, disassemble the whole thing on a bench, clean everything (especially the float needle and fuel jet), put it back together and reinstall. Drain all the rest of that gas out first. This. Get a can of carb cleaner and go to town. If you’ve never hosed with small engines before, take pictures before you disassemble, or find a service manual with drawings. It’s dead simple. Also, if you don’t wanna jump right in, pull the fuel line from the tank to the carb. If it’s gooey or gunky inside, it’s corngas rot.
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Aug 14, 2021 16:40
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Last year I rescued a plain-jane mower with a Honda GCV 160 engine off the side of the road. It needed a new pull cord and some modification to the adjuster for the front wheels. It has one of those auto-choke carbs with some kind of wax contraption inside that is supposed to open the choke after the engine starts running. I don't think the auto-choke part is working correctly. The engine springs to life easily when cold, runs OK-ish for a couple of minutes, and then runs like hot buttered poo poo for 3-5 minutes after that. Once the engine has gotten to full operating temp, all is well and I can mow like normal. Is there any use in trying to clean the carb or should I just get a cheap-o replacement? I don't really want to convert to manual choke because I don't want to deal with (or spend money on) adding a choke lever and cable.
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Aug 18, 2021 18:07
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How's the air cleaner? If it's clogged that will happen until the choke is all the way open. If it's fine it sounds like the carb is bad. It's been a while since I had one of those apart but I don't seem to recall anything in the auto choke system that you can really service other than making sure the shutter is moving freely and the spring is in place. Maybe the spring can get weak too?
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Aug 18, 2021 18:19
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My "Some dickhead filled it with straight unleaded fuel and sent it" rebuilt MS660 chainsaw got another upgrade today.... 36" bar and .404 pitch chain. Bar and chain are off an MS880 that got a shorter bar fitted and I had to buy a chain breaker to custom make the chain and take to the heel of the bar with a grinder to get a few more mm of clearance on the sprocket to get the whole assembly together. Plus get a 12mm to 14mm stud adapter plate to fit the bigger bar. Now to see if the 98cc big bore kit has enough power to send it or whether Im going to be buying some more fun parts from West Coast Saws to give it even more poke. Just the bar alone is bigger than my missus' MS180! - Thats a 25" scabbard on the 660 for size reference. 
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Aug 20, 2021 13:52
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Nice! But I don't think a stock 660 is going to push a 36" bar.
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Aug 20, 2021 14:58
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Motronic posted:Nice! But I don't think a stock 660 is going to push a 36" bar. It would push a 36”…. If it was 3/8” and not .404…. I can always pick up a skip tooth chain for it later. And it’s not stock- the 98cc big bore kit has added a tonne of power over the stock one
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Aug 21, 2021 05:32
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Ferremit posted:And it’s not stock- the 98cc big bore kit has added a tonne of power over the stock one We don't do regularly saws that big on the east coast of the US so I wasn't sure.....my MS 440 with a big bore rocks my (very tiny looking now) 24" bar. And yeah.....skip tooth certainly helps if you're not in a hurry.  I love this stupid thing.
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Aug 21, 2021 05:46
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Motronic posted:We don't do regularly saws that big on the east coast of the US so I wasn't sure.....my MS 440 with a big bore rocks my (very tiny looking now) 24" bar. And yeah.....skip tooth certainly helps if you're not in a hurry. Well unless I’m cutting hardwoods I won’t need a skip tooth! Just had it in a 30” ish Athol Pine log and it didn’t give a single poo poo. Except by god is it heavy and I am not looking forward to sharpening a 36” bar worth of teeth! I’ve got a 462 for work and it’s an absolute beast- it weighs about 150 grams more than a 362 with the light bar on it but has almost as much poke as a stock 660. My collection of saws is now the 180, 361, 462 and big bore 660. Work has 4 880’s but I’ve yet to find a use for those. The end game for the big bar on the 660 is an Alaskan sawmill and making big timber slabs. And showing off. That’s also important.
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Aug 21, 2021 07:15
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Comparing chainsaw dicks. I like it.
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Aug 21, 2021 16:11
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NotNut posted:My Snapper mower had some kind of problem with the seat sensor failsafe that shuts it off if you stand up, so my dad ended up bypassing it so it lets you actually stand up. He did it by just detaching the wires and bundling them together I think. The issue is ever since then (four years ago) it's seemed like the battery drains faster. Could that have caused some kind of electrical problem? I just got a new battery and after about a month it's dying between uses and having to be charged again. How would I be able to find a parasitic draw?
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Aug 29, 2021 02:30
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NotNut posted:I just got a new battery and after about a month it's dying between uses and having to be charged again. How would I be able to find a parasitic draw? What sort of accessories does this mower have? Iirc, in a car, you put a volt meter on the battery, and start pulling fuses until you see the voltage stop dropping. Don't know if it would be different for a mower or not.
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Aug 29, 2021 02:58
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i used a clamp-on ammeter for this, assuming it's a big enough draw to read on one of those (like >0.25A). clamp on battery cable, then every time it hits a junction and splits clamp part of the bundle and look for where the draw is going. trace until you find your culprit the fuse pull thing is good too, but idk that a small to moderate drain would have much effect on the battery voltage
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Aug 29, 2021 23:57
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PBCrunch posted:Last year I rescued a plain-jane mower with a Honda GCV 160 engine off the side of the road. It needed a new pull cord and some modification to the adjuster for the front wheels. It has one of those auto-choke carbs with some kind of wax contraption inside that is supposed to open the choke after the engine starts running. I don't think the auto-choke part is working correctly. Answering my own question: I bought a replacement wax pellet and installed it. It made no difference to the mower's operation. Start, run OK for two minutes, run like poop for five minutes, then run OK. I bought a cheap replacement carb from bald supervillain Jeff's house of everything. I installed the new carb and the mower runs great from start to finish. That said, carb work on a Honda engine is so much more of a pain in the rear end than other small engine manufacturers because of that messy sandwich of gaskets, spacers, plates, etc. The front wheel adjustment was broken when I found the mower. I cobbled it back together well enough to use it. Then the other day I found another mower with the same deck but with a Briggs motor on it while walking around my neighborhood. The front axle assembly was perfect, so I swapped the whole front axle onto my Honda-powered mower. When I have a little time I'll try to clean the carb on the Briggs mower and put the dodgy front axle on it. Reduce, reuse, recycle. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Oct 5, 2021 |
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Oct 5, 2021 18:32
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Any good places out there to cross reference a Canadian market Craftsman snowblower? Model # is C459-52786-0. It's a 9hp, 26" tracked unit. Tecumseh motor. My Google-fu isn't finding anything, I know Craftsman stuff was most likely made by MTD but I'm not having any luck.
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Oct 23, 2021 17:21
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What are you specifically looking for on it? Manual? Someone I know recommended these guys before, never used them personally though. Depending what you're looking for might be able to help you out. https://www.c-equipment.com/snowblower-parts.html
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Oct 24, 2021 16:57
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Yeah, a manual if can get it. PO gave me a parts list, with the same model # hand written on it, but I want to see if I can verify that it's the right one and dig up an owners manual. I checked that site out, and it's like a circa 2000 Geocities page with broken links and links that lead to ad redirects. I'll see if I can do some reverse engineering with part #s.
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Oct 25, 2021 23:31
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Captain McAllister posted:Any good places out there to cross reference a Canadian market Craftsman snowblower? I always use https://www.searspartsdirect.com for Craftsman stuff. They got exploded views and parts lists for Craftsman and other brands, even for my Whirlpool dryer from the 70s.
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Nov 4, 2021 22:52
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Often the Canadian models with Sears/Kenmore/Craftsman were sometimes different than the US models but obviously worth a try.
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Nov 5, 2021 00:39
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Small engine NOT repairing content, my leaf vac cart: It stopped.......at some point, I dunno because it's towed behind the mower and I have earpro on. I just saw it not picking up. It looked like it was out of fuel. It was not......... Now I'm trying to find a motor that will fit. I bought and returned an 8 HP Harbor Freight motor already. If they had good diagrams I never would have bought it because the fuel tank (not a huge problem) and the exhaust (an insurmountable problem) were in the way of the impeller housing:  I contacted the company that made the leaf cart to see what actually came on this thing originally. What was on there (got is very very used) was already not right and as you can see it's not worth fixing so I'm gonna see if I can find something that fits without janky spacers.
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Nov 8, 2021 02:42
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Oh, I missed out on posting about smaller engine repair. Last Sunday, I blew the top end on my 23cc 1/5th scale RC. Looks like there was some galling around the exhaust port and lost enough compression to die. It had been losing power at WOT, so it may have been running lean.
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Nov 8, 2021 13:41
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What would cause a push mower to start, then immediately die? If I prime it properly, it starts and immediately sputters out. I did notice that the primer button is slow to refill.
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Dec 3, 2021 22:24
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