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 I think my poor MS660 is gonna need another new cylinder and piston. Bolts holding the cylinder on backed out and it went waaaaaaay lean 
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Jul 22, 2019 15:29
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 22:18 |
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My "Some dickhead filled it with straight unleaded fuel and sent it" rebuilt MS660 chainsaw got another upgrade today.... 36" bar and .404 pitch chain. Bar and chain are off an MS880 that got a shorter bar fitted and I had to buy a chain breaker to custom make the chain and take to the heel of the bar with a grinder to get a few more mm of clearance on the sprocket to get the whole assembly together. Plus get a 12mm to 14mm stud adapter plate to fit the bigger bar. Now to see if the 98cc big bore kit has enough power to send it or whether Im going to be buying some more fun parts from West Coast Saws to give it even more poke. Just the bar alone is bigger than my missus' MS180! - Thats a 25" scabbard on the 660 for size reference. 
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Aug 20, 2021 13:52
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Motronic posted:Nice! But I don't think a stock 660 is going to push a 36" bar. It would push a 36”…. If it was 3/8” and not .404…. I can always pick up a skip tooth chain for it later. And it’s not stock- the 98cc big bore kit has added a tonne of power over the stock one
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Aug 21, 2021 05:32
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Motronic posted:We don't do regularly saws that big on the east coast of the US so I wasn't sure.....my MS 440 with a big bore rocks my (very tiny looking now) 24" bar. And yeah.....skip tooth certainly helps if you're not in a hurry. Well unless I’m cutting hardwoods I won’t need a skip tooth! Just had it in a 30” ish Athol Pine log and it didn’t give a single poo poo. Except by god is it heavy and I am not looking forward to sharpening a 36” bar worth of teeth! I’ve got a 462 for work and it’s an absolute beast- it weighs about 150 grams more than a 362 with the light bar on it but has almost as much poke as a stock 660. My collection of saws is now the 180, 361, 462 and big bore 660. Work has 4 880’s but I’ve yet to find a use for those. The end game for the big bar on the 660 is an Alaskan sawmill and making big timber slabs. And showing off. That’s also important.
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Aug 21, 2021 07:15
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I might have done something stupid... Its either a 1956 or 1957 Massey Ferguson FE35. Rare for all the wrong reasons. In the workshop for 10 mins and already marked its territory in the shed. Why the rusty water came out of the bell housing is still a mystery. 
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Dec 8, 2021 09:00
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im trying to decide whether its even worth trying to get an ancient old Wisconsin single cylinder engine on an ancident old ditchwitch self propelled chain trencher running again or whether i just attack the thing with a plasma cutter, welder and a visit to the tractor wreckers and convert the thing to a 3PL trencher to run off the back of the massey....
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Sep 15, 2022 14:56
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 22:18 |
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First thing i'd do is take the temp sensor, attach a couple of wires to it and hook it to a multimeter on continuity and then boil it with a thermometer in it. In oil if you need to get it over whatever moon unit it is that water boils at and make sure its actually closing at whatever temp you think it should be switching the fan on. From what i can see with a cursory google, most things say to keep your hydraulic oil around 70 deg c for maximum longevity in earth moving equipment. Tho we've got one of the Vermeer mini skid steers at work and thats just got the cooling fan for the hydraulic cooler wired directly to the ignition ON position, so as soon as you turn it on, it runs and then it turns off when you shut the machine down and its never given us any grief. I've got a fun little repair to work on. Back story - Honda GX200 motor coupled to a Onga dual impellor pump. Been used for about 5-6 years pumping water up from a dam to the storage tanks at the top of the hill- close to 80M lift so working pretty drat hard all its life and its probably moved in excess of 1.5M litres of water. It also gets put in a pump shed to move water around and provide fire fighting water in summer. Couple of months ago dad was moving water around with it while he was working in the shed and heard it start to run funny, then struggle, then died. Walked out to the pump shed and found this...   Pulled the pump out of the shed and undid the oil drain and about 2.5 litres of this stuff came out. Normal sump capacity is 600ml...  As far as we can work out, the ceramic seal pack that sits on the crankshaft where the pump housing bolts on failed, either due to being damaged from rust jacking of the crankshaft snout after the primary rubber seal failed, or just due to wear and age. This allowed pressurised water into the cavity between the pump housing and crankcase, which is sealed, and then because the crank case seals for the crankshaft are designed to keep oil IN, they dont keep water OUT and then it filled the crankshaft with water and turned the oil into custard. Problem is that its obviously been happening for a while, cos the crankshaft where the ceramic seal sits and the section in front of the crankcase seals were heavily pitted with rust. Tried to clean it up with emery paper in the lathe but no dice. A new genuine honda crankshaft is around AU$300 and is on backorder, and we really want this pump running before the weather starts to warm up and the fire risk starts to climb, and would rather not throw a chinese crank in it considering how hard it works moving water and how much of a PITA it would be to have it break down midway through pumping season. We have another identical, much younger, pump thats going to be put in the pump shed for fire duties, because we dont want to risk that not working when it absolutely HAS too, but we're going to try and repair the crank on this pump. Bought myself a kilogram of ER80S-D2 Chro Moly tig rods and some ceriated tungsten and took to the crank with the lathe and some carbide to clean it up below the rust pitting. Which was baaaad (hence why you couldnt just speedi sleeve it)  Gonna build myself a jig to hold it on the bench and support my hands, preheat the entire crank to 250c with the oxy and then lay a bead of TIG down the journals to be built up, rotate it 180, lay another bead, rotate it and repeat until its built up higher than needed, then back to the lathe, machine it down and polish it into spec. Basically we're about $60 in for the TIG rods and probably only $40-50 worth of gas, so if it fails its not a huge expense, but its also going to be really good opportunity to practice and get a LOT better at TIG welding! And Grinding tungstens inevitably... Im gonna go buy a silicone carbide wheel for my bench grinder...
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Sep 20, 2022 05:47
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