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Mercury Ballistic posted:I have ordered a new carb and filter hoses and filter. This will undoubtedly fix it. It's so nice to be past the point of rebuilding carbs - they are so cheap now and even the ones that are adjustable seem to show up dead on or so close to right it doesn't matter. I'm going to give my standard plug for Marine StaBil in every jug of regular fuel and using TruFuel or other synthetic and run it through before off season storage or for anything you will use over the winter. Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Oct 17, 2019 |
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Oct 17, 2019 22:36
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Slick posted:Is this for mowing, or shenanigans? cause that changes the budget drastically. That front tire looks pretty shiny. All of the tires are lovely. They are 30 years old. Some may be shittier than others.
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Oct 25, 2019 03:55
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Fermented Tinal posted:but it's not necessary. Just highly advisable.
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Oct 31, 2019 02:41
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Uthor posted:My dad has a Toro 518 ZR: Carb is likely clogged up on nasty ethanol gas. You can take it apart and clean it - plenty of youtube videos. Or you can tell your dad to spend $40 on this: https://www.amazon.com/BestPartsCom-Carburetor-127-9352-127-9053-SNOWBLOWER/dp/B07L2SXCTG
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Nov 2, 2019 22:33
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Fermented Tinal posted:Two years old? Probably just a stuck needle, I'd pop off the float bowl and see if it's that before buying a replacement carb or taking the whole thing off to clean it. If it's stuck it should come free with a little prodding and then you can try running it like that or take the float off and clean the needle and seat with some carb cleaner. It may be the fuel we get in the US, especially in the winter, but I've never been lucky enough for this to work. I take the carb apart and inevitably find white stringy shmoo that I need to clean out.
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Nov 3, 2019 14:36
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sharkytm posted:This has been my mantra for the past 5 years. Hasn't let me down yet. I buy VP SEF in 5 gallon cans. Sure it's $75-$90, but that's cheap insurance and I can mix whatever I need. Seriously this. I run small occasion stuff on trufuel all the time, and keep track of what needs to be drained/run on trufuel before the end of its season.
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Nov 14, 2019 02:25
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Pull the carb off. Remove the float bowl and clean it. Pull the float off and clean the needle. Unscrew the jet retainer and clean the barrel out with some stranded copper wire and carb cleaner. Do the same for the jet that comes out after it.
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Dec 5, 2019 21:44
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First guess if the carb doesn't do it (it's the carb): it's a bad magneto. The running fine until heat loading and then not running right later is a thing I've seen.Mr. Powers posted:E: In doing all my research for this, I learned that there are two things I can do with my tractor aside from snowblowing: lawnmower racing You should absolutely do that. FYI, don't touch poo poo on your new carb. Just install it. Most of them are coming set well enough that you don't want to even mess with them until you have run thing up to temp.
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Dec 10, 2019 04:12
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Mr. Powers posted:I did get an inline spark tester at HF when I was there. Is there a better way to diagnose a bad magneto? Oh, look at Mr. Fancy with the inline spark tester. The rest of us keep one of our used plugs around, switch the lead to that and ground the plug out on the surrounding sheet metal or block. But seriously....yeah, that's a good way. If you can find the specs you can also check what the resistance should be and check it when its misbehaving and also when cold to see if it varies wildly and is out of spec all the time anyway.
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Dec 10, 2019 15:57
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Mr. Powers posted:How much of a pita is it to make up new plug wires? It doesn't look like you can buy it, just plug cord and boots. The ones on there look original. The plug wires and boots aren't permanently attached to the magneto on that engine?
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Dec 10, 2019 17:03
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slidebite posted:What's the deal with multigrade oil and small engines? The Honda gx270 powered compressor I just bought and going through recommends against multigrade oil in the owner's manual I found online and only straight sae30. I typically run 5/10w30 in my small engine stuff. It was always my understanding that the big deal was that you want a non-detergent oil in small engines since they don't have a filter. Detergent oil keeps the contaminates in solution rather than letting them settle out as sludge. Single weight oils didn't (don't?) have detergents in them for a long time, so it was like code for "non detergent oil". No idea what's going on with the conflicting stuff you're seeing in the manuals. In the end: all of my small engine poo poo gets it's oil changed regularly and it all comes out of a Rotella 15w-40 pail whether it's got a filter or not. Send it.
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Jul 29, 2020 18:30
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New project Wouldn't start when I got there, but it was running a few weeks ago according to the PO, who I'm gonna go ahead and trust on this one. The bonus here is that he didn't mention the engine he put on it has a starter that he never bothered to hook up. F pull starting this thing with the big impeller/flywheel directly connected to the motor. Guess I'm gonna have to fabricobble a battery bracket.
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Aug 2, 2020 21:34
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the spyder posted:I've got a Cyclone Rake, highly recommend if you have trees or acreage. Makes my fall cleanup so much easier vs raking. I looked at those as well. I didn't like the way they attach (hard mount vs trailer), at least for what I'm dealing with. This is replacing a 3 point hitch mount/PTO vac that I used on my old tractor. Can't use it on the new one without adding a mid mount mower, which I really really don't want to do. It would also be way more expensive than what I picked this up for + what I'm going to put into it. I simply can't survive without a good leaf vac. I've got probably an acre and a half of grass with heavy tree cover. It's above my ankles if I'm not out every few days during the thick of the season. The bonus of that is I have a bad rear end compost pile every year. I made about 6 yards of finished compost out of last year's batch of leaves. With a pole that big all you need to do is go toss it around with the bucket once a month or so and it just cooks all winter.
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Aug 3, 2020 00:04
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Mr. Powers posted:Getting away from small engine repair, but is there a good system for mulching leaves? I had to act fast when I bought the house last fall so I just made a large leaf pile, but I'd love to mulch them rather than just leave a pile or bag and dispose. Depends on what kind of space you have, but shredded with a mower and put in a pile does that trick for me. You need a pretty decent sized pile for that to work through the winter though. Otherwise you can use any of the garden compost systems - barrels, etc - for leaves.
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Aug 3, 2020 16:22
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Well you see, that's your problem right there: Cleaned the carb and the engine runs great now.
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Aug 3, 2020 20:59
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Mr. Powers posted:I'm assuming the previous owners did zero leaf clean up since they were selling the place. They also did zero dog cleanup. For the side yard, I ended up with a pile about 3ft deep in the middle, 8ftx8ft. A fair amount of leaf mass, and it would certainly overwhelm most of the compost containers I've seen. It was too late and I didn't have a mower yet to mulch it in place, but I guess I'll see how the mower does this year. Oh that's a plenty big pile to keep going over the winter. You'll want to mount it up higher, but it should keep going off. Something I've seen people do for piles that size is to whack together 3 pallets into a "U" shape, or add two more to make two bins to you can shovel from one to the other to turn the pile easily. If you've got a spot for something like that it might work out pretty well. As far as shredding the leaves, a bagger for your mower is going to be the easiest. Don't know what you're working with exactly.
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Aug 3, 2020 22:15
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Mr. Powers posted:The mower is just an eGO electric. It does have a bag, but I have it set up for mulching. I do have a 2x1 shaped pen made of pallets from the PO, though. If you can, mulched would go off even faster as compost. But that means dragging leaves back to your bins, spreading them out, running them over and raking/shoveling them in. It really comes down to what kind of pain you're willing to put into this.
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Aug 3, 2020 23:26
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Has anyone done a propane conversion to a small generator? I am debating it to minimize my carb fouling headaches but wanted to know the downsides/caveats. I did one on a 20k Onan years ago for the fire department. It was really quite straightforward in that case. Take off some parts, replace with the parts in the kit. I don't think it took me more than 45 minutes from the first bolt coming off to up and running again. This was a legit onan kit, with a generator that was freshly serviced and in good condition so YMMV.
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Aug 17, 2020 16:39
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What does "cleaned it out" mean in regards to the carb. Like, have you done this before? Pulled the needle, cleaned all the passages and the nozzle? Can identify parts that need to be replaced? And how did it look when you took it apart? Was it full of ethanol gunk? I'm asking because it seems to be worse now that you've done this work. Also, does it run on starting fluid?
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Oct 11, 2020 15:55
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If it doesn't run on starting fluid but has spark it's time for a compression test.
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Oct 11, 2020 23:28
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Mercury Ballistic posted:A new plug never hurt too. I've had old plugs manifest with all sorts of symptoms. Spend the $2 to make sure. Yeah, that's a really good point. Throw the cheap stuff at it. But if compression is good you're into the magneto/timing. The whole puffing out of the carb sounds a lot like valve timing - I'm assuming this is a Honda-ish or Briggs-ish OHV engine. I've not had to dig into any 2 smoke OHV for timing reasons at this point. And kinda hope I neve have to.
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Oct 11, 2020 23:41
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Fermented Tinal posted:Pull the recoil start off, undo the nut holding down the flywheel, and see if it has sheered the key. This if it's possible....and be happy it didn't do it in the amount/direction that allows your motor to grenade itself. I did get a very nice chainsaw this way. Local place "serviced" it and screwed up the key placement. Was too advanced. Ran REALLY GREAT for about 3 minutes and then junked so back the engine block was cracked. I was gifted this pile of parts and it's a nice working saw now.
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Oct 12, 2020 02:10
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TrueChaos posted:Why is it always the older, louder, heavier, more unpleasant to use things absolutely refuse to die? 2stroke.txt?
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Oct 12, 2020 02:39
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TrueChaos posted:Nope it's an oldish 4stroke, grafted to a probably 40 year old frame/drive/auger assembly. Heavy as poo poo, have to disassemble a ridiculous amount of stuff to replace the belt, etc. A 2stroke would be lighter at least Yeah, I missed that in your previous post. I've definitely see those things have timing chains or gears that can get off/break teeth. That might be what you're looking at and.......who knows if parts are available. That's often a problem with small engines like this, which is why when i must small engine I try to stick to super popular ones like the Honda GC series where you know there are plenty of parts to go around. Hopefully yours was that popular back in the day and you can find something.
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Oct 12, 2020 15:35
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Is the fuel priming bulb cracked/leaking at all? That's what happens when it is and it's a super cheap and easy replacement.TrueChaos posted:Right click / show loop controls if you'd like to enable sound, otherwise imagine a bit of a pop and occasionally flame when the throttle is opened by the governor. Any ideas on why it would do this? E: sorry, mised this earlier. That sounds like it's running out of fuel. I'd be checking the float bowl/float/float needle as well as making sure there is good fuel flow to the carb. Like......hoses, filter(s) shutoffs. Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Oct 23, 2020 |
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Oct 23, 2020 01:15
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TrueChaos posted:So basically engine speed decreases (due to fuel starvation), the governor responds by increasing the throttle, it leans out & pops out the exhaust, normal fuel flow returns, repeat? That is was what I thought I was hearing. TrueChaos posted:Does the bowl need to remain at a specific fuel level for it to run properly, or does it just need fuel in the bowl in general? Depends on the carb, but I always found they need to stay pretty full for them to work. We've been through at least one rest here (won't run on starting fluid/no it runs on staring fluid) so I get it, but maybe time for a reset: tell me again about that carb. You tried to rebuild it/you got a kit and did something? Have you looked at how cheap most replacement carbs are these days? And let me add to that: most of them that I've bought have bolted up and been in close enough adjustment to start and run on the first couple of pulls right out of the box.
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Oct 23, 2020 02:54
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Mercury Ballistic posted:It's brand new. Primes fine. I don't know the machine well enough to tell you where, but it really sounds like you're running way too lean because of something some hose somewhere. The fuel hoses you mentioned to begin with are a really good start on this if it's not (what I think is always the obvious) primer bulb.
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Oct 23, 2020 02:59
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The fact that your battery is 4 years older (and how old does that make it now?) probably has everything to do with that. I've not seen a seat safety switch that is powered when the key is off.
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May 12, 2021 02:36
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NotNut posted:The current battery is only two years old (exactly). Already can't hold a charge. Has to be charged before every time we start the mower. Bring it to the parts store and see if they'll put it on the carbon pile load tester for you. It will take an hour or so. Or charge it and disconnect it then see if it's good the next time you go to use it. You could have some sort of parasitic draw (not the seat) but it's much more likely to be a bad battery. Once they die they're typically damaged/reduced capacity.
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May 12, 2021 16:12
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~Coxy posted:My power washer won't start today! Carb is full of gunk from sitting with untreated ethanol gas would be my first suspect. Remove, disassemble the whole thing on a bench, clean everything (especially the float needle and fuel jet), put it back together and reinstall. Drain all the rest of that gas out first.
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Aug 14, 2021 15:02
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How's the air cleaner? If it's clogged that will happen until the choke is all the way open. If it's fine it sounds like the carb is bad. It's been a while since I had one of those apart but I don't seem to recall anything in the auto choke system that you can really service other than making sure the shutter is moving freely and the spring is in place. Maybe the spring can get weak too?
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Aug 18, 2021 18:19
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Nice! But I don't think a stock 660 is going to push a 36" bar.
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Aug 20, 2021 14:58
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Ferremit posted:And it’s not stock- the 98cc big bore kit has added a tonne of power over the stock one We don't do regularly saws that big on the east coast of the US so I wasn't sure.....my MS 440 with a big bore rocks my (very tiny looking now) 24" bar. And yeah.....skip tooth certainly helps if you're not in a hurry.  I love this stupid thing.
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Aug 21, 2021 05:46
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Small engine NOT repairing content, my leaf vac cart: It stopped.......at some point, I dunno because it's towed behind the mower and I have earpro on. I just saw it not picking up. It looked like it was out of fuel. It was not......... Now I'm trying to find a motor that will fit. I bought and returned an 8 HP Harbor Freight motor already. If they had good diagrams I never would have bought it because the fuel tank (not a huge problem) and the exhaust (an insurmountable problem) were in the way of the impeller housing:  I contacted the company that made the leaf cart to see what actually came on this thing originally. What was on there (got is very very used) was already not right and as you can see it's not worth fixing so I'm gonna see if I can find something that fits without janky spacers.
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Nov 8, 2021 02:42
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kid sinister posted:What would cause a push mower to start, then immediately die? If I prime it properly, it starts and immediately sputters out. I did notice that the primer button is slow to refill. I would guess your carb float is screwed up or the orifice is clogged (using the primer forces enough fuel through to full the bowl, but it can't do it sufficiently fast on it's own). It's time to take that car apart and clean the hell out of everything and inspect all the lines for damage/clogs. If there is a filter in the fuel tank pickup you probably want to inspect/replace that too.
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Dec 3, 2021 22:54
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MrYenko posted:This. Get a can of carb cleaner, take the carb apart, and spray the poo poo out of everything. Then do the same for the lines and filter(s) all the way back to the tank. Last time I rebuilt a generator carb, it still wouldn’t run because the corngas had turned the rubber fuel line into a gluey mess, and it would only flow a tiny dribble of fuel. Just to add, in case kid isn't familiar with carb floats.....some of the old ones would get soaked/melty with bad gas/corn gas. So if it's heavy or squishy.....well, it's not gonna float anymore. So you'll need to find a new one (rebuild kit). But this doesn't necessarily sound like your problem. Still something to look out for.
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Dec 3, 2021 23:44
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Small engines not being specific past "on the dipstick" or "dribbling out of the fill hole" isn't at all uncommon. It's crappy, but there are a lot of different configurations and they (manufacturers) just don't seem to care to do better. What engine is on it? Can you find a data plate past just the stickers that have a general brand/model? Also, if the oil looked like that it's not a surprise, but it's probably been too long since it's been changed. It wouldn't hurt to fill it to minimum, make sure it runs and run it for 15-20 minutes, dump that oil and fill it again. That's probably overkill, but I'm like that. And even being like that scroll up to see what happens anyway.
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Dec 6, 2021 01:22
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I *think* there's a Briggs & Stratton on there, but I was too pissed/stressed/whatever to check for an engine code, will look tomorrow. Lol, if it's B&S you can just stop right there and not bother with the data plate. I just bought a brand new one and the manual was for like two different major models and a whole load of submodels and nothing that came with it had oil capacity listed, just weights for various temp ranges. You'd thing for $650 for a little 8 HP engine they could at least give you better docs, but no........
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Dec 6, 2021 14:13
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carticket posted:How can I tell if an oil is detergent free? I need to fill up a new generator motor, which did have a capacity listed which is annoyingly slightly over a quart. Anyway, it calls out detergent free 10W-30. I grabbed a no frills synthetic (not high mileage or extended life or anything like that). It has detergent unless it specifically says it doesn't. E: and I've never seen non-detergent multi weight oil. It's always straight 30. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Dec 6, 2021 |
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Dec 6, 2021 17:54
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 17:39 |
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UGH, I just went through this with a leaf vac cart. I started with the HF predator motors. They diagrams aren't great but you can get basic numbers to figure out clearance and mounting. In my case, the cart was so old that I had exhaust clearance issues on the shaft side interfering with the exhaust placement on pretty much all of the new chonda clones including the HF motor. I found a Briggs that was better but I still had to make spacers.
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Feb 7, 2022 16:53
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