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Portable Generator question. I need to replace the plugs (electrical variety) on a generator, they are non-GFCI if this makes a difference. Can I just go to any hardware store and buy some new receptacles or is there some sort of fancy electricity brick-a-brack that I need for one that is used in a generator?
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May 31, 2021 13:10
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 07:34 |
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two_beer_bishes posted:What would cause a 4 stroke mower engine to start with a spray of starter fluid but continues to run on its own. My mom somehow rebuilt the carb on this thing and says the primer bulb also doesn't have any pressure to it (makes sense, no fuel pressure, no starting). I'm in a different state but heading over there at some point in June, what could cause the primer bulb to not have pressure? Probably a leak somewhere? Did she hook it up backwards maybe? Not talking poo poo about your mom, its dope that she rebuilt a carburetor, but everyone makes mistakes.
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May 31, 2021 21:40
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Comparing chainsaw dicks. I like it.
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Aug 21, 2021 16:11
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NotNut posted:I just got a new battery and after about a month it's dying between uses and having to be charged again. How would I be able to find a parasitic draw? What sort of accessories does this mower have? Iirc, in a car, you put a volt meter on the battery, and start pulling fuses until you see the voltage stop dropping. Don't know if it would be different for a mower or not.
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Aug 29, 2021 02:58
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When can we expect a rebuild/restore thread?
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Dec 8, 2021 12:40
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Hadlock posted:Ok you've had 6 months to 'wrastle with this thing, what's the story There was a thread. Look back a page or two.
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Jul 8, 2022 15:01
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Two issues: Small stand behind track loader. Its a "ramrod" brand. gently caress them by the way. I don't think I'll be reaching out to them for assistance because they're a bunch of scammin' rear end motherfuckers. Engine is a 3 cylinder Kubota Diesel Model: D902, non turbo. First issue is that it has a small solenoid to shut down the engine. Every so often that solenoid fails and the engine won't shut off, so we have to reach in and pull or push (I forget) the plunger by hand to kill the engine. When we take them off they smell like electric death. I don't think its a result of heat though as far as I can tell its in the factory spot and its not *that* close to the exhaust manifold. There is certainly other electrical brick a brack near the exhaust manifold and we haven't had issues with any of that. Anyone have any ideas if this is just a known lovely part? It seems like Kubota would have replaced it with something better if that was the case but who knows. Second issue is with the hydraulic oil cooler. When we first got the thing, the fan would come on at (some unknown but "hot") temperature, and after about a week of working, it stopped working. We bypassed the thermal switch to see if the fan would come on and it did. So we figured that the issue was the switch. Its a pretty small switch and had no identifying numbers/words on it to indicate manufacturer, part number etc, but I managed to find one similar from an ATV. Screwed the thing in, hooked it up and ran it for a while, fan didn't come on. Bypassed the switch, fan comes on. Take the switch out, hook it up, put a lighter under the little temp nub, fan comes on. Put it back in, and hook it up the way its supposed to be fan doesn't come on. The original switch was screwed in to a bushing (either aluminum or brass don't recall offhand) which was then screwed in to the heat exchanger. Admittedly when the issue first came up we didn't actually check the switch itself, we just bypassed it, fan came on and so we figured the switch was the culprit. Any ideas what the issue could be? The bushing seems unlikely as the culprit, but at this point who the gently caress knows. Currently its bypassed in such a way that the fan comes on when the key is turned to the on position, but while that may be fine in the summer, its not necessarily ideal in the winter.
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Sep 14, 2022 20:43
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Back on this temperature sensor of mine. Its been a while since I actually looked at the machine but it Turns out there was a steel fitting going in to the oil cooler, then a brass bushing and then the sensor. The threaded part of the sensor seems also to be the "sensing" part of it. I got a new steel fitting, drilled it tapped it and put it in there and eliminated the brass bushing, which brings the sensor part of the sensor a bit closer to the oil. Still no dice. I ran the machine for a while with a bunch of accessories going, and then did some laps around the parking lot in it. I have a laser temperature sensor and checked various parts of the oil cooler before checking the new steel fitting. The oil cooler was 150+ freedom degrees while the steel fitting was around 120. Without being smart, the only thing I can think of is that the steel fitting is just enough of a heat sink that its not letting the "sensing" part of the sensor get to a high enough temp to close the circuit. Does that make sense? I guess if the machine was in actual use, then maybe it would get hot enough but I can't do that without starting to drill holes in the ground with this thing. The only thing I can think of doing now is getting a colder switch and seeing how that works. Any other suggestions? Points of view?
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Sep 15, 2022 19:42
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Ferremit posted:First thing i'd do is take the temp sensor, attach a couple of wires to it and hook it to a multimeter on continuity and then boil it with a thermometer in it. In oil if you need to get it over whatever moon unit it is that water boils at and make sure its actually closing at whatever temp you think it should be switching the fan on. From what i can see with a cursory google, most things say to keep your hydraulic oil around 70 deg c for maximum longevity in earth moving equipment. Thanks for the insights. Currently thats the setup we have, when we realized the fan wasn't turning on we just hot wired it to the key switch. So now whenever the key is on the fan is on, but winter is coming and I was hoping to get this sorted before then. We probably don't need the fan running when its -20 out or whatever. I talked to a guy at the place we bring our stuff to for hydraulics work and he looked up a 120*F Hopefully I'll have time to hook it up and test it out this week if they don't send me out drilling. We have had shot loads of jobs postponed because we can't get locates so I've been spending a lot of time in the shop lately.
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Sep 21, 2022 02:02
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Has there been a loss of compression? Stripped cam gear? Is it a flathead?
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May 3, 2023 23:38
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wesleywillis posted:Thanks for the insights. Currently thats the setup we have, when we realized the fan wasn't turning on we just hot wired it to the key switch. Also, to get back to this, I hooked up the 120degree switch ran the poo poo out of it for a while and it worked! Fan started up when it got hot enough.
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May 3, 2023 23:43
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ionn posted:
If the cam gear stripped, or broke or whatever while the valves just happened to be closed then it might give decent compression numbers while cranking. If you've confirmed fuel (ether) I'd try with the coil or magneto or whatever it is. Maybe the spark is just super weak.
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May 4, 2023 12:59
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Small engine carbs are actually super simple. THeres like one jet and a float with valve and fuel bowl. If you've already taken it apart and cleaned it then its probably fine. Especially if it was running and then died. And also if you've dumped some fuel right in it and it still won't start.
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May 5, 2023 12:18
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I've repllaced a few pull cords in my time. I usually go to the local "lawn and garden" type place that sells and services this type of poo poo. Most frequent question they ask when I need a pull cord is "how much HP"? THe whole pull cord assy is probably replaceable, especially if its a B&S, but you can get away with just replacing the cord. Drill out the rivets and......... figure out how to reattach after. Probably just a few small nuts and bolts.
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May 13, 2023 17:46
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 07:34 |
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^^^ was going to say starting fluid, or just squirt some gas right in the carb. Same instructions otherwise.
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Apr 26, 2024 15:22
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