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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Ferremit posted:

I might have done something stupid...



Its either a 1956 or 1957 Massey Ferguson FE35. Rare for all the wrong reasons.

In the workshop for 10 mins and already marked its territory in the shed. Why the rusty water came out of the bell housing is still a mystery.



Ok you've had 6 months to 'wrastle with this thing, what's the story

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Fuel air spark

You have air (probably) and spark (confirmed)

Maybe dump the gas, let it (and any water) evaporate overnight with the cap open and start over with fresh fuel.

Also maybe pull the air cleaner and validate it's not clogged with mouse turds and moth eggs or whatever. Once it starts and runs for 30+ seconds reattach the air filter. Remove the muffler and visually inspect, then reattach

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

We don't have a flathead engine thread (yet?) I'm going to try and turn over my flathead straight 8 sometime this week? I guess. It's basically 8 x 660cc flathead small engines welded together. Kinda. And it weighs 1000 lbs. It supposedly ran January 2023 and has been living under a tarp in socal since last March. Socal is usually pretty dry but they did just have a hundred year rain event last fall. There's a tiny bit of water in the oil but not bad. Both the starter and alternator look newer than 5 years which is a strong sign. And the fuel filter looks newish and the fuel not too gross or cruddy

Thinking about putting a 50/50 mix of diesel/atf, I guess about 50ml, in each cylinder, just unscrew the spark plug and pour it into the cylinder. Each piston is about 80mm in diameter with a very long stroke. From there I'll wait... 4-5 days and try and turn it over? I already have a set of nearly-actually 2" sockets arriving tomorrow. I suspect it'll turn over without the penetrating mix but I have some time and I'm in no hurry. I can rotate the front crank wheel with my hands a ~1/128 which is probably (hopefully) more than bearing play

If I can get it to turn over I'll jack it up and weld together a stand in place (it's currently strapped to a HF furniture dolly) and then... Try to start it? Is it worth getting a $7 fluid transfer thing?

https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html

Not sure if this even has an oil filter and the oil plug is in an inconvenient location (and shallow and like, nearly 2" in diameter?) and I'd like to get the watery oil out before I pump it through the whole engine.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I don't know if it's siezed; I'd rather not break a ring as there's a single supplier of parts for this engine and they charge accordingly

Project farm did a battery of antisieze tests and the ATF/diesel mix came out way ahead of commercial blends, also seems to be standard practice

Wasn't sure if the extractor was best practice or not. Actually I think in this case it is; the drain plug for this engine sits a good half inch above the bottom of the oil pan, facing the rear, not down, so probably doesn't do a great job compared to an extractor that can reach to the bottom of the pan

I don't know poo poo about how to deal with an engine in an unknown state so just going down the preflight checklist

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

wesleywillis posted:

^^^ was going to say starting fluid, or just squirt some gas right in the carb.

Same instructions otherwise.

If vise grip garage has taught me nothing else, you can start just about anything by squirting two tablespoons of premixed 2 stroke fuel directly into the intake

Edit: given you've resolved air and spark issues

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Apr 26, 2024

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