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KakerMix posted:A 200 series, clearly. I too hate foreplay
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Jan 20, 2023 05:29
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KakerMix posted:A 200 series, clearly. This is the way.
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Jan 20, 2023 09:39
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Slow is Fast posted:Old farts know I did the rally thing. After basically hemorrhaging my net worth and my sanity on racing, plus propping up everyone with a sob story, my dream shop became a nightmare. I hate cars and hate rust and I just want to drink a beer in the field with the dog looking at the horses. Lol this sounds like a lot of guys I talk to that were into racing for awhile, mostly Spec Miata guys that said gently caress this, sold everything and now go fishing on the weekends instead
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Jan 20, 2023 14:00
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Slow is Fast posted:SH and I talk plenty and I've been trying to sort out what is next. Another two years and the first of the FTE powered 100 series turbo diesels will be legal for importing from Japan… My 05 FTE 100 is rolling up past 440k kms now and just to irritate you, still has the factory paint on the chassis.
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Jan 23, 2023 09:07
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Slow is Fast posted:
This is pure poetry and every time Slow is Fast posts on these dead forums the sun shines a little brighter. I have spread myself too far across too many projects but work on the 570 has taken as much of my free time as I have. I even took two days off of work to run around and get things done. My parents were in town and staying at our house which made it super convenient for my dad to help out. In what has become a full reversal of roles he was the one holding the work light for me while I got to say the swears.
I went and bought a brake bleed thing from Harbor Freight only to learn it is entirely unnecessary thanks to and electric ABS brake boost thingy. Turn on the ignition (but not engine). Have your helper step on the brakes while you crack the bleed valve with a 10mm wrench. The ABS pump just pushes fluid through the system. Don't exceed 60 seconds at a time. Weirdly the Toyota FSM has you work in the direction of right front > left front > right rear > left rear. I had siphoned all the fluid from the reservoir before bleeding the first line so it would make the job quicker. I didn't need to jack the truck up at all. I just put the hydraulic suspension in HIGH mode and was able to crawl under and open the valves. Super easy and I am embarrassed to admit the following: This is the first time I have ever bled brakes on a vehicle. I have helped others by being the push on the pedal guy. I have otherwise paid other people to do it (or sold the car before I paid any attention to it  ). Please don't judge me. Or do. Having these cars has pushed me to learn and do things, and these forums have given me the confidence that I can do a lot of this stuff.The reverse lights were super easy to install. On the rear tailgate panel you remove a couple of 10mm bolts and then use some panel trim spudger tools to pop the ~16 clips out. Then just twist the bulb holder from the housing and install the new bulb. The Diode Dynamics are a direct fit without any error or resistance weirdness.  Not a single clip broke! Success.  Old on the left, new on the right  Immediately after this photo the heat gun came out and that dealer decal came off. The trim tools were then put to use taking apart the dash. This was to find a theoretical harness plug that is in there somewhere on the left and is clipped into a dummy connector to keep it from floating around. Two screws and two 10mm bolts to remove the under panel.   Again - no broken clips. It all came apart smoothly with no abrupt popping. Really nice.  Behind the headlight switch panel lives some harnesses and in the back is the connector you want to find! At this point I thank the good Lord for giving me tiny hands and stronk fingats where I found it easy to clip in my pre-made Curt wiring harness and feed down to the footwell. Rather than put permanent holes in the plastic and give myself less room with the bracket I used VHB sticky industrial velcro. This also gives me the option to remove when not in use if the mood strikes me.   This is very exciting to me because I have not driven my trailer using the trailer brakes. I bought the controller but as the 470 was old it pre-dates the ease of having a harness like this already done. Splicing was a thing that did not fill me with much confidence and the trailer/470 stopped fine enough with the brakes of the Lexus that I was even less motivated. Also extra fun is that my alternator will now charge the house battery of the Bean. This will make longer drives/lengthier durations an easier task. On the next installment of Rusted Developement Our intrepid poster meets a spiteful engineer but overcomes. 
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Feb 1, 2023 04:18
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I do t have a way to just like but I like it hard great work
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Feb 1, 2023 04:27
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New thread title thanks to the AI Mod Crew!!! Can my new tires/wheels show up already? Thx. I have been slowly accumulating a mass of parts and fluids. I also have been picking up a bunch of stuff for the 570. I have also been making ~*Progress*~ on my various maintenance things that need doing and finding new things in the process! I replaced what were likely the original spark plugs  Which did not look bad! I didn't care to look at the gap compared to new because only nerds do that crap.  It largely was an uneventful bit of maintenance save the passenger side rearmost plug. A hardline for the heater core runs directly over the ignition coil.  With wobble extensions in hand the two bolts holding those in place came off easy enough. The wiring harness proved to be the most challenging thing. Not being able to pinch the release with enough force and wiggle at the same time was tough. My hook tool saved the day here after some 15 minutes of wiggling/pinching in futility  The heater crap was a bit of a pain, but with a sincere effort and light cursing I was able to get the coil freed. MVP of this whole job was my GearWrench universal equipped spark plug wrench. It is magnetic which is superior to any rubber holder socket thing I have used in the past. Next thing up was removing the roof rack from the 470 as I was selling it without the rack (which will fit onto the 570).  This was a strange look  Back2Basic We said our goodbyes. A friend of mine purchased it from me which is great. He is a cruiser head, has a 60, an extremely tidy 80, and another 100 that had a few issues he didn't care for.   That is it for this post, but tuned in again where you see my hands holding more things that I take pictures of! 
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Feb 16, 2023 23:59
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Somewhat Heroic posted:That is it for this post, but tuned in again where you see my hands holding more things that I take pictures of! SUSPENSION FLUID OIL4 CASH
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Feb 17, 2023 00:02
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Whoever did the PPI on this thing sucked* *it was me. I did the PPI So I knew I was in for a lot of lube and I have definitely needed it. As mentioned my first bit of maintenance performed was brake fluid. It was largely uneventful and went smoothly! I did take note of the front brake pads and rotors which both seemed approaching their expiration. There was some slight pulsating I noticed when test driving it and I was confident it was the left front. No big deal - I found that the PowerStop Z36 seemed to have favorable reviews and were not terribly expensive. I ordered it through 4Wheel Parts which had everyone beat on price by like $80. The zinc plated rotors are visually pleasant compared to normal rotors that rust on the hats the moment they are exposed to oxygen. With my newly acquired brake set I started the replacement. It started mostly easy. The caliper pins on the driver side were corroded pretty badly. It looks like rather than caliper grease the last person in there used anti seize compound that had grown crusty with time. They are a weak aluminum pin which folded and bent over rather than slid out. I ended up hacking through by pounding them off with a cold chisel. While compressing the four pistons of the caliper to install the new pads I found the lower inside piston refused to move. The rubber dust seal had also been torn and looks to have been that way for a while. Was this the source of my pulsating? My spidey senses said yes. I was able to free the piston and get it moving. Made a note of that and would be ordering new seals and be back into this caliper.  I hit everything with a wire wheel as well to clean it up. Replaced the caliper pins with OEM. The passenger side came out much easier.  caliper grease used   I then went and followed the bedding in process as recommended by PowerStop. The first ~10 stops were uninspiring. I even got a little bit of smoke from the rotor on the second or third attempt. By stop 12 however - things were feeling GREAT. The driver side caliper did not seem to be sticking and I felt good about being able to use it until I could get in there with the forthcoming seal. With cash in hand and the change of the month I went to go pay my taxes  The DMV locally is easy. Maybe a 10 minute drive from my house and I don't think I have ever spent more than 20 minutes at a time. This was even without an appointment. The following weekend I was on my back and under Ella again. This time it was drive belt/oil/front diff. This meant removing the skid plate. I had bought new skid plate hardware to replace the could bolts I had seen missing. No big deal. Started with the oil which I will spare you on. Then moved to the diff.  New crush washers and new drain bolt was installed. The internet had me believe the drain bolt would strip out and be miserable and the internet lied (mercifully) While replacing my drivebelt I was met with a new foe:   signs of a leaking water pump I have made friends with the local parts guy at the Toyota dealership. He gives me pricing that ends up being just about as good as ordering from Partsouq and it is ~2 miles from my work. So at least that takes away the sting.  The 200 series Land Cruiser is very BMW in that you just replace everything and then you don't have to think about it for 10 years/100k miles. You would think I would be used to this by now.   Are my wheels in stock yet? I can barely get it up.
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Mar 3, 2023 00:08
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I am in the middle of this wonderful stage where I have tons of updates to post but not enough time to post. I have made a lot of progress, here is a bit. I gave up on Icon wheels. They make a great looking wheel but they are a bunch of dinguses. We called in January, they said 4-6 weeks. After six weeks we were told the container was "[within] two weeks" for shipping the order. After just over two weeks we called for an update to be told "Oh yeah so that shipment was all oversold. It will be another 6-8 weeks" I have no confidence I will be able to see them in the next batch so I started looking for other solutions. Discount cancelled and refunded my wheel order. I knew I wanted 17's. I really did not want to get black wheels so naturally I ended up with a set of black wheels. Being in stock and available for a great price won out over my own vanity.  Method Race Wheels MR314's. I like the spoke and rally inspired look. My set of 5 wheels shipped between two warehouses. This one showed up first. The second four arrived a day later but one seemed different. It was not in the regular retail box. No big deal I think. Then I find a sticker on the box "S&D". Wait a minute...does that mean?  Scratch and Dent.  So I contact the company I got them from saying "yeah you sent a scratch and dent. I need this RMA'd and a label to have it sent back" After some back and forth they agreed. I ordered a replacement wheel and three more days pass but it finally arrives! The thing that has not arrived? My refund for the S&D wheel that was received back a few weeks ago.  Laces out. Discount Tire made quick work of mounting.   A rare sight of a sunny day in the winteriest winter that has ever wintered in Utah. I like the offset. A tiny bit of poke.  There is quite a bit of rubbing on the front wheel well. The easier solution until I have the time to fiddle with it deeper is to just remove the mudflaps. I fortunately have an easy idea of where I need to trim.  I immediately list these on a local classified site for $250. Agree to $200, but let the dude take them for $180. Honestly I would have put them up for free but I figured I should try to get some money for them.  I also take time to revisit the torn brake caliper piston boot I discovered during my brake job. I didn't take any photos but it was pretty simple. I pushed the piston out more. Cleaned some of the corrosion, put a bunch of brake caliper grease on the piston. Cycled it a few times and then installed the boot. It seems to be operating smoothly. If it gives me any more fits I will replace the caliper (about $200)  A single snap ring that was easy enough to remove and a molded lip on the boot rests in the crown of the piston. NEXT: I tackle the biggest job I have ever attempted on a car. Do I succeed? Does my wife roll her eyes at me when I say how long it will probably take? 
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Apr 3, 2023 23:05
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I dig laces out... nice update!
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Apr 5, 2023 23:36
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I have made friends with the local parts guy at the Toyota dealership. He gives me pricing that ends up being just about as good as ordering from Partsouq and it is ~2 miles from my work. So at least that takes away the sting. Late to the party on this, but if you have a Costco membership, I discovered Costco sometimes has a deal with some Lexus and Toyota dealers for parts and service. 15% off, but you do have to print off a voucher. https://www.costco.com/auto-program-parts-services.html Wish I'd known that before I bought a new starter, but it was still somehow less painful than most of the parts stores.
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Apr 11, 2023 02:10
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STR posted:Late to the party on this, but if you have a Costco membership, I discovered Costco sometimes has a deal with some Lexus and Toyota dealers for parts and service. 15% off, but you do have to print off a voucher. Oh, that's handy to know. Thanks!
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Apr 12, 2023 21:53
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Probably Ford and Subaru dealers too. 
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Apr 14, 2023 04:34
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 I am slipping here but try and hang on! With the less sexy but more satisfying thing of maintenance this will hopefully be more interesting. As alluded to earlier in my thread I found a leaking water pump on my first oil change. This was on my radar given the age/mileage of the truck when I bought it but I was hoping to put it off until next year. Oh well! I found little reference to DIY on the IH8MUD forums, but after some googling for Tundra 5.7 water pumps. There is also a bit of a design flaw of the 200 series radiator. Anywhere from 80K-150K miles they like to fail catastrophically at this molding point on the top of the core. Usually it starts with a hairline crack, then it can leak a bit.  This is usually unseen from the beauty covers. I noticed a small crack forming (barely visible) when I bought the truck which is why I had thought I had some time - a year to 10K miles. Since I was going in and draining the block/radiator and pulling the WP I went ahead and decided radiator/hoses/thermostat and others were going to be replaced as well. Everything came off pretty easily. I don't know if this is because overall the job wasn't bad or if I am putting in the reps to make wrenching easier. There was one small hose I struggled to break free from a hard line. I carefully used my pick tools to break the seal that had sort of formed on it. I started by draining the radiator which was made easy with a built in petcock. I then drained the block with a small valve on the passenger side. You can actually attach a hose and then loosen the plug but I just had a catch pan under and let it drain for a good 30 minutes. This pulls all the coolant out of the block and heater core. Removed the air box, drive belt, and hoses. Then removed the bolts holding the fan shroud. Removed the clutch fan and carefully had to pull the shroud and fan directly up and out together. Disconnect the transmission fluid lines that run through the radiator and plug them with a Sharpie marker that perfectly fits. Then it was like four or five bolts holding the radiator and lift directly up and out.  Kinda plugged up with some crap. This left me with a lot of room to accomplish what I needed from here.   AC condenser looking good. I would say I was to this point in like an hour.  The water pump is the uppermost/center of the pulleys. Direclty above it you can see that short bit of black hose connecting the two hard lines was a proper ball ache to remove. Installation is inverse of removal!!! (I hate that phrase)  The water pump includes a gasket that is conveniently "keyed" into place so it doesn't shift around when installing. The torque specs were easy enough to find online and with the radiator out of the way it was really easy to get my torque wrench in there and button it back up.  The "blind" bolts that prove to be temperamental for some ended up being a non-issue for me.  I got the new hoses in and filled the block and radiator with coolant. After spending some time bleeding the system I went for a drive to the car wash to spray down the engine bay/block. I also brough the skid plate and splash guard along and spent a good long time getting those really clean. After catching ten years of coolant and oil and road shmoo they were needing some attention.   This photo doesn't seem like much but it is a big deal for me. After nearly four months of wrenching and feeling like there is "something" that needs doing I have left the engine in "service mode" while the beauty covers have been stacked in my garage.  By reinstalling all of these I am communicating to myself I won't need to be back in here for a while and it feels real good. My to-do list is much shorter, at this point it is my hydraulic suspension fluid flush (still not done...) and get some new hardware for my roof rack and have that installed. Some other things I did was got a hold of some all-weather liners   Then I promptly drove 500 miles in a single day to visit another planet so I could test out the new mats.      Friggin' rocks, man. I won't bore you with too many rock pics but these ones were all very good and I can't wait to get back to see them again. Next install(ment)  :
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May 9, 2023 21:51
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Very nice!!!
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May 9, 2023 22:14
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Hey my 08 tundra has 142kmi should I be concerned
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May 10, 2023 00:31
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I had a 91 lexus ES250 - not even in the same realm - but that radiator failed in a spectacular way like that - it actually blew the top straight off of it and I found the top resting neatly on the engine cover. I was late to a college class and I was about a block away from the shop where I needed to be so I just left it parked with a note on it- thankfully it didn't get towed away, but that was a long day of finding a new one, begging for a ride to get the radiator, convincing a gas station service guy to lend me the tools and then changing out the rad in a red curb parking zone, in full LA traffic.. that was '05... Obviously the heater T fittings are a hot button on 100s, but I haven't heard of anything more than that on the 100s... I hope...
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May 12, 2023 16:39
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Bloody posted:Hey my 08 tundra has 142kmi should I be concerned Yes. You should also be concerned about the valley pan sealant failing if you have a 5.7 in it. You need to look under the intake with a mirror or endoscope. It's probably full of seeping coolant. Toyota used some super fast setting version of FIPG on the assembly line and it does NOT last. Use the regular "set overnight" FIPG, the suby gray sealant, hondabond, or just permatex ultra gray, let it cure overnight before refilling the cooling system, and you're all set. It's a very very poo poo job. You will probably also find that rodents have been living under your intake and chewing on the knock sensor harness which is fortunately cheap and easily replaceable while you're in there.
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May 12, 2023 17:21
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I was inspired by your adventures to get basically a land cruiser, however I overpaid for a 99 LX470 with a lot of things broken. I have poor impulse control. It doesn't look too bad from afar, which is nice  Interior isn't horrible, all the trucks I was seeing in my price range were ruined, and this one has new seat covers. Probably tricked me into buying it.  Got my tow hitch on, and flipped the ball on it as I was formerly using my hybrid minivan to tow the trailer. It made the 10 km trip from my house to the dump much better than the minivan did, but the following was discovered: - A/C compressor squeals when its turned on - none of the diff lock lights come on when you press the buttons - rear wiper doesn't work - all the window switch panels fall out - retractable antenna doesn't work (no surprise there) - Sun roof doesn't work - window auto up doesn't seem to work, they hit the top and come back down - AHC goes up and down, but the truck kinda wallows around corners - Rear vents for kids are all broken, will have to fix those somehow - Check engine light lit up on the way home - steering wheel tilt/telescope are all broken - key remote isn't programmed/doesn't work - trim falling off the roof Along with the obvious that I knew going into buying - Steering wheel feels gross in hand - brakes are pulsey and need to be replaced blindjoe fucked around with this message at 06:47 on May 14, 2023 |
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May 14, 2023 06:45
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Go to ih8mud forum I’m sure there are countless threads to solve all of those issues
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May 14, 2023 20:56
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Bloody posted:Hey my 08 tundra has 142kmi should I be concerned blindjoe posted:I was inspired by your adventures to get basically a land cruiser, however I overpaid for a 99 LX470 with a lot of things broken. I have poor impulse control. I’ve become an influencer! This is all great. The diff lock is only a center diff lock. You should hear a solenoid that makes a clicking sound from the passenger footwell. Everyone seems to break the antenna because they don’t put them down in a car wash. Look at the bendy stubby antenna mod people do. Check your sway bar end links if you’re having a wallowing suspension in corners. I have a fun post about that early in the thread! CEL could be a myriad of things. If just a simple ‘engine misfire cylinder X’ start with inspecting or replacing spark plugs and likely a failing/failed ignition coil. You can swap the coil with another adjacent cylinder and see if the misfire follows it. I didn’t have to do any AC work on either of mine fortunately. They were both very cold. The river rock mica one was particularly cold, it would actually start condensating. With the warming weather in Utah I’m happy to report the 570 is even colder than any of my 470’s. It’s a marvel. I’ve got all of my stuff to install my compressor. I think it’s going to be fairly quick and simple!
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May 14, 2023 23:07
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Well, I may fill your thread up with small updates as I worth through this thing - I probably won't work on it enough to warrant my own thread. So far what has made it worth buying has been that I haven't found any rust on the whole thing, and its a BC car that was sold at the lexus of Victoria, and 25 years later is still in Victoria. It may have been a bad buy but gives others schadenfreude look at what you get if you dont get it inspected. Since its a Canadian LX, we have rear lockers, as they didn't put traction control on the early ones. However, with no feedback that it is on, the switch might not be connected to anything anymore.  This is what I get on key on, so either that bulb has been removed, along with a bunch of them. That will be fun fixing all of them  e. Went out to try to program the remote, and that didn't work. You need the driver side lock/unlock button to work, which does not. Luckily (?) all the tabs are busted on the panel so I can take it out and bring it inside.  Took it apart, found water damage inside. Last guy had been in there, maybe trying to reflow some solder connections. All the screws were missing that bold it on. Cleaned it, no change. Ordered cheap one from Ebay that others have noted to work. blindjoe fucked around with this message at 05:29 on May 15, 2023 |
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May 15, 2023 04:39
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I'm going to be parting out my 99 cruiser soon if you start making a list of bits you want. Mines tan interior though.
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May 15, 2023 19:45
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Slow is Fast posted:I'm going to be parting out my 99 cruiser soon if you start making a list of bits you want. Mines tan interior though. Awesome, Ill make a list. Colour probably won't bother me, or I will make it really different and paint it pink.
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May 15, 2023 21:25
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blindjoe posted:Awesome, Ill make a list. SEM interior trim paint goes a long way.
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May 15, 2023 21:38
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blindjoe posted:Well, I may fill your thread up with small updates as I worth through this thing - I probably won't work on it enough to warrant my own thread. Absolutely chunk up the thread with your work. That is really cool! I did not know about the Canadian market LX getting the rear locker option. I feel like I have seen references to actuators being rebuilt or cleaned up or something on either IH8MUD or the UZJ100 Facebook group. Mud is a great resource and has a pretty strong search function broken down by series. Facebook is...a mess but can be decent for quick real time help. I never drove one with a rear locker so I don't know what it is supposed to do. Slow is Fast had a factory rear locker on his if I remember correctly and had since installed air lockers. Prematurely blowing my wad and a total crap photo but look at my fun new shiny things. 
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May 16, 2023 22:20
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Absolutely chunk up the thread with your work. my actuator was actually falling apart because new england corrosion, the housing was disintegrating. I'd switch the switch and the rear light would just blink. I ordered a California actuator and installed it with a rehabbed o ring. You may have to take it apart and look. Also another fun thing that happens on the early 90s e lockers is the magnets just gently caress off / become unglued. I did a front air locker because the 98-99 2 pinion diffs are known to explode. I now have in a closet an oem 2 pinion setup, an oem 4 pinion setup, and an arb locked 4.30 front diff. I am an idiot.
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May 17, 2023 04:13
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Anyone have a reliable source for key blanks? Mine came with only 1 remote (that can't be self programmed as the lock button doesn't work) so I want to make a couple more. Lexus wants $400 for one key, locksmith want $50 to cut and can't buy blanks. Ebay lists a bunch they seem fine as long as you don't buy landcruiser keys. The parts pile is slowly filling up, the truck hasn't moved since the first trip and is still hooked to the trailer. I am cheap so all the parts are coming slow shipping and haven't got here yet.
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Jun 2, 2023 00:33
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So a center/scroll cut key? Buy the blanks on eBay all day long for $2-3
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Jun 2, 2023 00:53
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https://www.ebay.ca/itm/19289148800...90000&ch=osgood Ill give that one a try, hopefully comes out ok. E: I see you are getting just the key, makes sense that they are a couple of bux. As a bougie guy, I already miss the remote entry - hopefully in the month it takes for this junk to get here, my other ebay junk will get here so I can get the remote to work blindjoe fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Jun 2, 2023 |
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Jun 2, 2023 01:10
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Ebay blank, Local hardware store copy, the older and grayer the better. If you have remote keyfob poo poo google the konami code pedal dance programing. Hopefully you don't have a 100 series with a dead remote motor that is 4 dollars but hours to tear poo poo apart and replace, instead opting to lock the truck remotely and then hand lock the driver door. Then key flick in the driver door a full unlock. This is fine. At least we didn't break the key shaft off and the key is still spinning freely.
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Jun 2, 2023 04:29
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I paid 100 bucks at a locksmith for 2 new keys with remotes and one valet style key with no remote - The first time I put the new cheap key blank in the ignition I gave it a twist and felt it flex and quickly remembered the struggles I had with my moms 100 and my FJ for the past few years, bought one of these silly rear end things and I actually love it. https://www.yotamd.com/collections/frontpage/products/titanium-toyota-lexus-key-kit-black Now if I could get the rear drivers door electric lock working again, I'd be happy. I remeber seeing a few threads on mud and fb groups, but opening up a door panel is not something I really want to do right now, and if I did open it up I'd want to have the parts ready to go for a r&r rather than loving around with mine.
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Jun 2, 2023 05:31
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I have not ever needed to get a replacement key/remote made. I did change the flimsy housing to an AJT key housing because I was too cheap for the Yota MD piece. The project resumes! I have never really gotten into modifying a car to the point of doing stuff with the electronics. The only car I ever had an aftermarket stereo in (head unit and speakers) I paid someone else to install. It has always been witchcraft voodoo beyond my comprehension. It seemed like this should all be no big deal and easy according to the internet. I found a multitude of "my install" threads and posts but nobody ever seemed to go into detail. My coworker got a new Tacoma and wanted onboard air. I helped him install it before ordering my own system because I wanted to see how it went to see if I felt like I could succeed. I was going to have a few different things (his was mounted under the passenger seat so going through the firewall grommets were a pain). I ordered the mounting bracket from Slee offroad. They always have quality detailed instructions with pictures and clear directions for which hardware is used (Slue supplied/stock). First was removing the air pump relay and other relay to the Slee bracket that lowers/drops it on its side. The air compressor is going to live on top of this and squeeze between the ABS pump/fuse box   I then mounted the compressor to the main bracket. There is a lot of margin within the mounting points so you can get it just where you want it. After a few trials I settled on the final mounting spot.  Slee wants you to use the ARB manifold kit. The reasoning is for future mounting of things like air locker solenoids but also for the braided steel hose on the output of the compressor. The compressor gets HOT. The braided line helps with keeping your air hose from full on rupturing due to heat. You do need to clock the end fitting which is a little tricky but with a good pair of channel locks or knipex pliers and a vice you can twist the end as needed. I mounted the ARB quick mount chuck to the manifold.  Now to decipher the wiring diagram. From here I default to the ARB instructions which are not vehicle specific. There are colors and plugs and harnesses and like ten feet of wire.   I only need it to be like 12 inches long. Also I decided I didn't care about the solenoid wires. If I ever add air lockers I will just buy a new harness. This means I realistically just needed two of the wires on this harness.  Much tidier. ARB includes a rocker switch that has like 5 different colored wires with spade connectors that hook up to the back. Those connect to the compressor and into the other harness. The ARB compressor has another harness that is the power wires. A big fat ground, a small skinny ground and two big positive wires with inline fuses. Easily enough you just trim to length, crimp on a connector and then connect to the battery terminals directly. I do not have a picture of this! The on/off switch is powered via the fuse block. Find the ignition port (the bottom center of the photo) and from there I used an "add a circuit" thing that plugs in place of the fuse and holds two 10A fuses. One for ignition, the other for the compressor. Then I used the DRL 5A fuse underneath the ignition fuse and did a second add a circuit. This powers the light on the on/off switch. This would be more important if I had the switch mounted in the cabin but where I am using this for filling tires I just have the switch mounted in the cutout on the Slee bracket that it press fit into.   I trimmed a portion of the huge fuseblock lid to let the various wiring harnesses in easily. I did it on the back side of the lid. All the wires (power and other harnesses) all got covered in the PTFE sheathing/edge protection which added a really stealth finished look. The compressor kicks so much rear end! I will upload a short video for another post where I got to test it. This was all done just in time to head down to southern Utah to visit my parents. This was the longest distance I have driven in the 570 and I loved it. With the cruise set to 83mph I averaged better than 15mpg in nearly 600 miles of driving. I also got some insight into the actual range. The fuel light came on about 5 miles before I parked. It comes on when you have barely 5 gallons left in the almost 25 gallon tank. It is pretty aggressive. The mpg calculator seems accurate within a tenth which is really impressive. The other cool thing about this is when you reset the TPMS it calibrates the speedometer using the GPS even with the bigger tires. I have tested it with apps and those things cops put on the side of the road to state your MPH and it is accurate. Real neat stuff!  Next installment: Am I part of the cool kid club yet? I have cool shoes and got a new haircut 
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Jun 2, 2023 06:52
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Somewhat Heroic posted:The other cool thing about this is when you reset the TPMS it calibrates the speedometer using the GPS even with the bigger tires. wait, thats a thing? does my 100 do that? - this was my biggest holdup in getting bigger tires - it would skew the milage and the speedo would be off... I'm barely driving my 100 right now because my 69 year old station wagon gets better milage, I can smoke in it and I dont have a commute from hell right now - I also want to keep my miles low because I'm an LX owner  . I've had my geolanders now for close to 4 years now and they are doing ok, but when that NHTSA recommended 6 year interval pops up, i want to go bigger- question to you guys - if my 100 doesn't automatically detect larger tires, how can I calibrate my speedo and trip computer to remedy that?EDIT: Search the forms dumbass - yeah yeah, I know.. I'd be happy to answer your questions about 40s-50s buicks and 1928-31 model a fords LobsterboyX fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 07:36
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LobsterboyX posted:wait, thats a thing? does my 100 do that? - this was my biggest holdup in getting bigger tires - it would skew the milage and the speedo would be off... I'm barely driving my 100 right now because my 69 year old station wagon gets better milage, I can smoke in it and I dont have a commute from hell right now - I also want to keep my miles low because I'm an LX owner There are converters that intercept the speed sensor value and allows adjustment. https://www.lutzauto.com/product-page/80-series-landcruiser-lx450-speedometer-calibrator I've got one and the speedometer is accurate even with 35s.
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Jun 8, 2023 02:58
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My Techstream Cable came in from China, and my replacement door lock switches. Door lock switches went in fine, and was able to lock/unlock the doors from inside, but all the cheatcode pressing didn't get me into key program mode. Connect Techstream, and find that both my Keys are sub's, so the guy didn't get a new master, he just cloned the valet key. So I have a car with no master, so cannot program anything. I will now have to get my ECU flashed, and reset the drat thing. The newer cars have a way of resetting with software, but the old ones are ecu flash/replace only. I have ordered an eeprom writer, and will see if i can read the chip. I may also spend the $100's to get a used ECU to play with incase I break it. Hopefully I get a chance to start on the other maintenance this weekend, I have a bunch of stuff that needs to go in.
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Jun 8, 2023 17:48
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My daily Toyota uses the Lexus scroll cut style key, and I could not find the master when I got it just valet key. A really good local locksmith was able to cut a new copy of the valet key to make it a master. Really. Something g with the cut of the end of key Oh and I found the real master key after 2 years they had taped it under the passenger seat???
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Jun 9, 2023 05:42
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Kastivich posted:There are converters that intercept the speed sensor value and allows adjustment. https://www.lutzauto.com/product-page/80-series-landcruiser-lx450-speedometer-calibrator does your truck have the trip computer thingamajigger? I'm sure that all that info like MPG and range is based off that speedo input... right?
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Jun 9, 2023 19:25
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blindjoe posted:My Techstream Cable came in from China, and my replacement door lock switches. Be glad it’s not the turbo diesel… those things are a loving nightmare if you loose the master keys for… replace: Key Ignition barrel Security module Body control module ECU Injector pump modules It’s about $6-7K all up cos they’re all one off coded to each other and can’t be re-written cos the turbo diesels don’t use standard OBD2 protocols and they’re reaaaaaallly lucrative to steal cos the engine alone is $20K now
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Jun 13, 2023 11:49
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