Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Bloody posted:

Hey my 08 tundra has 142kmi should I be concerned

Yes. You should also be concerned about the valley pan sealant failing if you have a 5.7 in it. You need to look under the intake with a mirror or endoscope. It's probably full of seeping coolant.

Toyota used some super fast setting version of FIPG on the assembly line and it does NOT last. Use the regular "set overnight" FIPG, the suby gray sealant, hondabond, or just permatex ultra gray, let it cure overnight before refilling the cooling system, and you're all set.

It's a very very poo poo job. You will probably also find that rodents have been living under your intake and chewing on the knock sensor harness which is fortunately cheap and easily replaceable while you're in there.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Ferremit posted:

Partsouq ex Dubai- with freight they were $42 each, plus $60 freight. Toyota Australia wanted $135 EACH for them and a 5 day wait ex Sydney warehouse-

Glad I'm not the only one who realized this is a better method. They've gotten me things I flat out couldn't get in the US at all with any timeframe provided f ro when they would arrive. SIMPLE things like LC200 rear brake slider pins - something the entire northeast US needs on a regular basis for every 200 that is regularly driven (you are at least replacing the bottom ones every time you need pads unless you're some kind of freak that just disassembles/cleans/greases brakes that aren't worn out on a DD).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Ferremit posted:

Braided lines make a MASSIVE difference to how the brakes bite on a 100, especially an older one with squishy stretchy rubber hoses

This is one of those forum things (happens on all model specific DIY wrenching forums) that appear to be nothing but confirmation bias. Basically every instance of this I've seen are completely unsafe decades old lines being replaced with whatever "because racecar" braided ones when factory or quality aftermarket would have provided the exact same improvement in feel. I haven't done this on a 100, but I can't imagine there is anything special about the brake system or line lengths that would make it any different than a land rover/porsche/chevy/dodge/pick your DIY forum.

Braided lines come with a lot of negatives, especially on street vehicles. Even the new externally coated DOT approved ones.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Ferremit posted:

There is something quite different with the 100 series brake system- Its boosted by nitrogen accumulator and runs about 500psi higher pressures than the old vacuum boosted systems in the previous generation 80 series. When I upgraded the lines on mine the factory lines were less than a decade old and the upgrade was the difference between ABS being dead to the world because you COULDN'T make the tyres lock up on dry roads to actually getting the wheels to stop. Testing with pressure gauges showed that with the old lines I wasnt meeting minimum brake pressure at the calipers vs being on the high end of the range toyota specifies with braided lines.

It's just hydroboost, not some bespoke technology running at different pressures. Factory lines will work fine, yours in particular were bad. If it needed something else it would have come with it from the factory. Braided lines are dangerous on the street.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply