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HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Six pages of RV thread and no mentions of the "just add 'anal' in front of the camper name" joke. I'm disappointed.

Anyhow, my wife and I are slowly pecking away at our 12' Jayco popup, and we took it and the kid and dogs up to the Medicine Bows last weekend. Can confirm that a Mr. Buddy heater keeps things warm enough that a toddler will mostly sleep through the night. It got below freezing one night but I'm not sure by how much. The mounts on the outside for the stove and table are really useful, because it gets mighty tight inside when you start spreading food and stuff out and trying to cook.



This is a 1996 model, and the PO's fixes through time are pretty poo poo. The original fit and finish of budget pop up campers is not great to begin with, though. lovely hardware, everything held together with cheese head sheet metal screws or staples, hasty cuts on material, etc. I'm not disappointed, and we were looking for a project when we got this thing last year anyway. My wife is doing all the upholstery and interior repainting while I handle replacing countertops, linoleum, hardware throughout, and rebuilding the roof. I've already replaced all the water lines and door hardware, a bed, and put the biggest wheels on it that would fit in the wheel well and not hit the wells under full suspension compression.

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HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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kensei posted:

Watch out for that little bear ravaging your supplies :)


HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Anybody else trying to sell a camper at the moment? I’ve got my 1996 Jayco popup listed and am hardly getting any engagement, even though it’s priced pretty much exactly where other clones are at the moment. I assume gas prices have a lot of people saying “gently caress no I’m not towing anything this summer!”

Also why why why why the gently caress do people ask “Why are you selling it?” :fuckoff:, I want $3000 more than I want a camper at the moment.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Oh poo poo I may have sold mine too. Couple says they'll be back tomorrow with cash, banks were closed today for Juneteenth. Zero dickering, absolutely no mention of price.

Now to start saving up and finding a Casita or Scamp. Anyone got experience with them or other small hard-sided campers? We're looking for something that's easy to pull behind a V6 Tacoma. This Jayco I'm selling is a little over 6' wide, 12' long, and 5' tall. It's 1875 lbs empty, so likely a bit over 2000 lbs fully loaded. I want something no heavier than that, maybe even a little longer (this popup is egregiously sensitive to any weight behind the axle, and equally simple (no toilet/bathroom, no fridge, maybe even no heater?).

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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There is some goddamn content on this page

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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I think I've bought it at Walmart. Maybe sold as "plumbing winterizer" or such.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Steve French posted:

Oh, also: very interested in recommendations anyone has in general for camper stuff, like cookware, cooking/eating things especially, or just really any products you find are fantastic versions of what they are for camper use, or that you wouldn't want to go without when using your camper.

A medium cast iron saucepan/Dutch oven. They cook a little more evenly on small gas camping/camper stoves than other materials. Also will hold stuff warmer for a little longer when you're going in and out of the camper around mealtimes like back and forth between a picnic table.

Plastic scraper for pots

Baking soda

3-4 small plastic cutting boards rather than one big one. Can prep and move stuff in piles out of your limited work space.

A couple rolls of ptfe tape. Water fittings in even good quality campers always seem to need something tinkered with.

Kitty litter

A 5 gallon bucket with a screw top lid. Or maybe a kitty litter bucket with a latching lid. Keep all your tools, tape, zip ties, whatever else you have for preparedness into it, and then you got a bucket when you need one for bucket stuff.

Games, cards, books, cribbage. If weather catches you off guard then the kids will have backup stuff to do.

Stick a bar of dial soap, still in the box, in every storage hatch and in the back of every floor level cabinet. It'll keep the rodents away and you'll never be without soap.

A bunch of paracord. Clothesline, whatever.

First aid kit, if you don't have one in the truck.

Stash toilet paper, trash bags, and gallon ziplocs in a couple places.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Anybody in here got experience dealing with a sagging inside liner and insulation in a Scamp or other fiberglass camper? I found a pretty good looking 1995 model, and the interior liner is the one thing that will take some work. Looks like I can access panels of it separately, which should make it an easy job, but I've never done it. I remember my dad trying to fix sagging headliners in old hoopty cars when I was a kid and never really getting it right.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Another question about fixing up a Scamp:

This thing smells like other owners. Not like mildew, water damage, mold, etc, just other people and old material. Given that the walls and ceiling are completely lined with this carpet type stuff, would an ozone treatment kind of reset the smell? I've never used ozone but hear it's great for upholstery. I'll probably crosspost this to AI too.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Catatron Prime posted:

Ozone seems like a great idea, I picked a cheap one up awhile back but never wound up using it and just lent it out to someone that said it worked really well in their new apartment.

Since it's that carpet material, you might also try a carpet shampooer, eg: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016HF5GK

Ozone will kill the bacteria, but I'm not 100% whether it might degrade certain plastics.

With the insulation decaying I don't know about reattaching the liner, I've never had luck with that, but potentially you could poke a tiny hole in there, use spray fabric adhesive with a red spray can nozzle straw to shoot it up in there, repeat in a few places, and hit it with a roller to flatten up the sag? Maybe even inject a thicker adhesive and use a paint roller to spread it around by rolling the lining underneath to push it around the void and press the lining up against it.

How to hold it in place till the adhesive dries is a great question... possibly a rare earth magnet above the camper and one below depending on the shell thickness, to pin it in place in a few places? That may be a really dumb idea, just spitballing.

If you really wanna go hog wild, strip the interior of the camper, pull the lining off wholesale, maybe add insulation, and then reline with peel-n-stick wallpaper. Could be pretty neat, though probably a pain to do

Some posts in the AI stupid questions thread are steering me away from ozone and toward good old cleaning by hand plus airing out. A buddy told me he keeps a couple dehumidifier cannisters in his popup with good results.


WRT the liner, it's fortunately installed in several sections, and not sagging throughout. Seems like it's mainly one panel. Poking around on the Scamp and fiberglass rv forums turned up some solutions pretty similar to what you describe. The most involved method, which I'll likely do just so it's the best chance of long-term success, is to remove the sagging panel entirely, clean up any residue, re-glue it, and then brace it up with some plywood or something and 2x4s. Actually, the PO deleted the toilet and took out a semi load bearing wall, and put in some conduit columns that would work pretty nicely I think. I'd like to not have carpeted walls at all, but as you point out it would be quite a project. Wiring is run thoughout the ceiling, and as far as I can tell, is uncontained. So there would be a bundling and routing project as part of the whole thing.


Interestingly, campers in this price range seem to be potential investments. Scamps from the 90s are going from $10,000 to $15,000+ depending on level of renovation. They've been steadily holding value or increasing for about 3 years now. We got our 1993 Jayco popup in 2019 for $2100 and I sold it last year for $3500. It was probably $900-1000 cash profit, though all the rest was lost on the lovely amount of work I had to do. The newer and more expensive a camper is, the less likely it is to appreciate, the older and better condition it's in, and under that ~$10,000 range, the more likely it is to appreciate by a few hundred bucks. Which is a pittance over a few years of ownership, but makes it feel a little more affordable of a hobby if you're ok with not committing to any one particular trailer. I'm getting better at working on stuff like this quickly and cheaply, and selling toy vehicles is less of a hurdle for me than it used to be.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Here's what Leperflesh said in the AI thread.

Leperflesh posted:

Also don't breathe it. Ozone is harmful to breathe in. It's criminal that they sell those things to people to "improve the air quality of their home" without making it clear it does that while you're not home and it needs to be turned off and the air cleared out when you and your pets are home.

https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/ozone-generators-are-sold-air-cleaners

The EPA basically says don't buy them, but there's a ton of details to read in this link. I'd be skeptical, and I'd prefer enzymatic cleaners on all porous and semipourous surfaces. Also lots of fresh air.

A powerful ozone machine inside a camper might actually harm some of the materials inside.

I'm reading through the EPA article as I have time today, and also other stuff online. Seems like it's probably only likely to be damaging or harmful in very high concentrations, and when not thoroughly aired out.

But I live in a region with crazy high ozone for most of the year, lots of radon, and high prevalence of childhood respiratory issues, on top of working with formalin daily. So while ozone might work just fine and be relatively safe, I'll just take the safer route and not add one more potential danger to the stack even if it is a minor risk.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Got a Scamp! This 1995 16-foot came up for a good price sort of locally. We thought we wanted a 13-foot, but after seeing how small this one is, a 13 was right out. Anyhow, I've been cleaning for days now and finally getting it into shape. The smell is actually fine after a good vacuuming, laundering of all the upholstery covers, surface cleaning, etc.








It's got a few things we weren't interested in, like a heater and fridge, but again, the price was right and they work just fine. The PO took the toilet and booth out, and put in an air conditioner that she routed out the toilet hole in the floor. Probably will take that space as storage, since this thing is pretty limited in that regard.

I'm honestly kind of surprised about a couple of the features in this thing, given it's from 1995. The water pump has an auto shutoff, so you turn it on and it primes the faucet, then keeps itself off till you turn it on. Also the inverter charges the battery both off the vehicle while it's running, and when connected to shore power. Finally, it's got electronic brakes. Definitely did not expect that. PO threw in a wireless brake controller, which I need to figure out. Towing it home mostly empty behind the Tacoma it was just fine, but I'll sure be happy to have brakes on it.

A few things on the docket to fix: tires are in good shape but 6 years old, so they'll need a replacement. Bottom edge of the door has a pretty big gap, so I need to figure out how to add some seal to the threshold. Maybe just a pool noodle for now. I need to glue up the liner and paint the inside of all the cabinets with Killz as well. Probably a new thermostat. And a good bleaching of the water system.

HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 17:05 on May 25, 2023

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Anybody got a good LP gas detector to recommend? I've got smoke/CO and standalone CO but figured I'd round it out.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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That's quite a trip, nice.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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I move a lot of trailers (mostly boats) around with a harbor freight dolly and they all have those Curt jacks. Most of the moving I do is in gravel. Even the best new curt jack is a pain in gravel, but having a wheel on the jack is pretty necessary and that one does the job. It's fine on concrete. Pneumatic wheels like on the harbor freight dolly are really nice for gravel, and two wheels is nicer than 1. I'd think with 1 wheel on the dolly it'll constantly be keeling over as the ball rolls in the hitch. But I've never used that one.

Replace your stock jack with the wheeled one anyway, you won't regret it. Just get some rubber chocks, also harbor freight.

HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Oct 17, 2023

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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I have this one for use around the house since it came with the camper, but it's way too big and heavy to travel with. Works great, especially with the 1800ish lb Scamp.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Catatron Prime posted:


Are any of the off-road jacks worth the premium? And do any of them have a wheel lock mechanism? I thought that would be pretty standard but can't seem to find any


I've never used an off road trailer jack, but I wouldn't bother for a lightweight and well balanced teardrop. Just seems like more bulk on the tongue and there's enough poo poo up there already assuming you have propane, a battery, trailer brakes, safety chains, and the pigtail.

I've never seen a locking jack wheel either. Chocks under the wheels are really all you need, and when it's parked keep the jack wheel perpendicular. Plus put down the stabilizer jacks on the camper and it's not going anywhere.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Guess who didn't put antifreeze in the water lines? Guess whose water tank emptied into the bulkhead as fast as it was filling? Guess whose pump filter is split? Guess who's taking the family for the first campering trip of the year in two days?

Took me a while to figure out what happened. I pulled the water tank out first and discovered that Scamp compartments are apparently built after the water tank is installed, so the hatch to pull it out was just a bit too small to fit easily. I left some skin and blood in there but got it out. The water lines were filthy, of course so I got new hose to run tonight. If I hadn't seen the crud in the filter, I'd never have found the leak. As soon as I unscrewed it it kind of fell apart. In digging around the spare parts bin the PO passed on, there's a fitting that is pretty clearly a filter delete, so I'm good to go.

Now to bleach the tank and reassemble everything after dark tonight!

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HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

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Catatron Prime posted:

Ah poo poo, that sucks... glad you got it all figured out and fixed though!

If it's any consolation I ran into a similar gently caress you last weekend that postponed my plans to go camping, when the thermistor on my 12v cooler fridge conked out and froze everything inside. I was hoping it was just a loose connection, but when I popped out the sensor I noticed the pins and housing were pretty corroded. Tried electrical contact cleaner but that wasn't quite enough, and even though it's a new fridge, it still took awhile to get in touch and go back and forth with iceco's customer service. They finally offered to send out a replacement thermistor so I'm hoping that'll fix the issue.

I'm continually amazed at how fragile the appliance parts are in campers. I know a lot of stuff is built for weight, but some things seem so lightweight that exposure and vibration and dust destroy them way too fast.

Another thing that always kind of baffles me is the propane systems. In my Scamp, the pilot light, main burner, and fridge condenser are a big convoluted and archaic looking unit on the backside of the fridge, accessed through the outside hatch. I still don't understand how the furnace fits into the system. The main pilot light has to be lit for the furnace to run, but the furnace has its own ignition that isn't tied to the pilot light at all. Also, there are no furnace controls other than the Rodgers-Shaw thermostat on the wall. There's a good 4 feet of gas line between the main propane manifold and the furnace. Does the pilot light somehow keep the gas line to the furnace primed? Somehow it all works, clearly Olde Magick.

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