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It's fairly easy to diffuse LEDs. The newer COB LEDs do a little diffusion already by themselves, but for standard LEDs, either a little sanding of the housing if they are still the through-hole discretes, or some sanded clear plastic for SMDs. Or the neat little aluminum channel things for the tape lights with a diffused lens already included. Like these (under the reel and AC adapter):  Off:  Without lens:  On:  Evens out the light considerably. The tape lights are typically 12V nominal, and can be cut every 3 SMDs, so work pretty well in auto environments. You can solder directly to the pads, but these slip-in, click-lock pigtails are a lot easier and cleaner:  I've got two strips in the trunk of my Crown Vic, one at rear of the lid, and one under the deck, and it lights up that monstrous trunk beautifully. You can also get "outdoor" waterproof strips that are basically potted in clear silicone, but those can have heat issues, I'm told. I have some, but have not yet stress-tested them in any way. Edit: Also,for the radio, I would pick a common "car-side" connector to wire into the car, then use the appropriate radio-side adapter to wire in any aftermarket heads. The car side connectors are typically sold as "theft-replacement" harnesses. In your case, the German DIN plugs are common enough, even coming on some aftermarket radios, that I would probably use that in a VW. I like the fact that they use one block for power, and one block for signals. There are also some "Japanese" connectors that were fairly common on several brands in the late '80s-'90s. For that matter, you could just use common Molex connectors. Only need 13 pins typically, which can be split into the 5 powers and 8 speaker leads if you can't find a single connector you like. Or just wire it direct like you did. It's not like the harness doesn't unplug from the radio on anything over bout $20 now. Nothing wrong with that. I just fear commitment. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:51 on May 26, 2020 |
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May 26, 2020 22:44
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Nothing too exciting but I got everything cleaned up and put back together minus the wideband and the wiring going to the top gauge pod. Ordered a new gauge, digital with the sweep LEDs around the perimeter and that one isn't working either. Tried it with both sensors so it has to be the harness which sucks for two reasons in buying another gauge for maybe no reason and it's a pain to swap because I have to depin the connector to get it through the firewall. Not like a huge deal but I bought another autometer just to avoid doing that. I'll swap it later when I have more time. If the gauge is bad I'll be really annoyed. So frustrating because that's the only thing stopping me from hooking up the boost since that information is critical and it's the entire point of the project. One cool thing was that when I was putting stuff in the hatch the neon was flickering so it does work I just have to fix the connection. I also found two small neons that I never used and they work so I have to find a spot for them. Got some more fresh parts for the TDI too New harmonic balancer  Cam and cam buckets, lower timing belt sprocket and intake/exhaust valves in the small box still in the package with anticorrosion stuff so I didn't open them  Water pump, oil pump and oil pan. Pan was $25 so why not it'll look so mint  I won't need the cam since it's getting a bigger billet cam but I didn't notice it came with the buckets so I'll have to sell it or make a shifter out of it or something. Won't be doing much car stuff for a little while since I have a new baby on the way and if anyone doesn't read the chat thread here's some pics   I'm really, really excited
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Jun 4, 2020 03:03
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Baby had been taking up so much of my time when I'm not working and I've been so, so tired. I don't know how people with human babies do it. Car work had stopped but I had a chance to put the new aluminum radiator I got for the 86 dump in today. It's a lot bigger and the only thing that fit were the bottom 2 mounts. I ditched the shroud for the mechanical fan and ordered an electric fan controller then I'll get some stock fans from a 05 up Silverado. Found one for $65 I'll try to pick up tomorrow. For now zip ties will do the trick. I'll build some brackets once I have the fans. This should be about 1000 times more radiator than I need for the stock 1986 350 (117hp tops) but it's some future proofing for some plans I hope to get done this year. It's not an LS anything, it's cooler.   Need to wash it, the old coolant looked like rusty brown gravy and the fan blew it all over. Then I got some valve cover gaskets and I plan to remove all the air injection bullshit. Probably not today but soon.
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Jul 5, 2020 22:06
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Haven't been doing much car work but when I originally put the Euro bumpers on I reused the stock hardware and it was the wrong thread pitch. I chased all the holes and got new correct metric hardware and put it back on. Did a little painting behind it since it looked terrible.    I also replaced the last piece of the worn shift linkage that I didn't know about until recently. I have to readjust it so I'm going to start from scratch and go by the manual step by step. I also have to do some precision hammering of the downpipe and maybe some grinding on the linkage because the dp gets in the way of second gear 
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Sep 8, 2020 00:02
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Did some work on the Hawk today. Took the carbs out AGAIN to clean them out and make sure everything is working as it should. Like a dumb rear end in a top hat I left the gas on and the left carb has the green nightmare poo poo in it. I was having so much trouble setting the float level so I got new ones plus needles and gaskets and stuff. Everything is pretty clean from last time minus the one green bowl. The secondary needle slides are smooth and free so I think they should be working correctly.  I manually cleaned up as much of it as I could get to then threw everything into my ultrasonic cleaner which I didn't have the last time I rebuilt the carbs. It has a timer that shits it off after 30 mins max so I kept resetting it to clean the stuff longer. It's just diesel that I have in there so I don't have to worry about destroying aluminum and I'm going to leave it in there overnight and turn it on again tomorrow.  While that was going on I started putting new throttle cables on. This bike has two and the return cable broke. I tried fitting them a bunch of different ways and none if them seemed right so I'm going to finish them with the carbs back on.  The cables were actually right for this bike. Ordering parts for it is hit or miss so I got lucky this time.
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Sep 10, 2020 00:03
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Yo https://streamable.com/lmdp4o The loving floats were in upside down. Whoever rebuilt the carbs before me put them in that way so I copied that until this time when I watched a YouTube. Christ They aren't synched yet but really close. I've been doing it by ear but can't get it perfect so I'm going to build a syncher with some jars
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Sep 11, 2020 23:34
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To me, that's a failure of design, literally what Murphy's Law is about, if you look it up (it's not, "if a thing can go wrong, it will" - that's Finagle's Law - but "if a thing can be done wrong, someone will do it". More about people loving things up rather the universe.) You shouldn't be able to install the floats upside down, if there were a competent engineer involved. Mazda did this to me once on my RX-7. I rebuilt the carb, and after that the vacuum secondaries never worked. I rigged it so they were mechanical (easy to do) until I saw a post regarding the same problem, involving the gasket between the body and baselate of the carb, a hole therein, and the port for vacuum feeding the secondary actuator. Turns out, the damned gasket is absolutely symmetrical - EXCEPT for that on little hole through it for that port. There's no reason it couldn't have the same hole on the other side - there's solid metal on the other side, so it literally wouldn't matter, but someone, somewhere, made the decision that they weren't going to do that, and they *also* weren't going to key or index the gasket in any way to make it difficult to install upside down. Assholes. Thankfully you can pull the carb body from the baseplate without removing the carb, because it's sort of a pain to do that on a rotary, involving cut and/or bent wrenches to access the mounting bolts. And it is nice to have a relatively simple fix to the problem. Bike sounds good!
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Sep 12, 2020 00:05
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Was that on the Nikki carb? I bet that was why my secondaries never worked! I did the same thing and made it mechanical. I thought one of the rats nest solenoids had something to do with it and I removed them and thought I lost the secondaries that way. You're so right about how you shouldn't be able to do it the wrong way. Funny thing about these carbs is that the correct way also looks upside down compared to the ten million other carbs I've worked on. The fat part of the floats point up instead of down into the bowl, so weird. I really need to get the manual for this bike too. Now that it's close to rideable I like to go through and tweak everything so it's on balls correct and I want to know what I can tweak and how. It does sound pretty awesome. The stock exhaust was rusty or I would have kept it but I kinda like the way it sounds now. Especially at high rpms now when it never went past 5-6k without breaking up since I got it
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Sep 12, 2020 01:49
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Yep, stock Nikki on a '79 RX-7. It probably says something about it in the manual, but I missed it. Mazda makes pretty good service manuals. I'm a fan of factory service manuals even if they're not the best. Aftermarket ones are useful, though, sometimes, since there's a chance that they will contain updated and corrected material, and/or warn you of common gotchas, especially if they are intended for pro mechanics interested in saving labor time.
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Sep 14, 2020 22:19
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Finally got Dave's steering rack replaced. I got the best one from Rock Auto cause no more loving around with it. Even the inner tie rods on the eBay shitter were lovely, thin and not that tight even though they were supposedly new. The replacement is Cardone. Replaced the lines to the pump again too since I had to cut up the other new ones to get to Boston the day it let go. It'll be nice to have power steering again. Got an appointment for an alignment in the morning. Still pretty clean from last time. Swapping it was a breeze since everything was clean and had just been apart   You can see the difference in quality, all the external lines have nice bends and that's the paint that came on it. I also replaced the bushings with poly so it should steer like a formula one car now.  I also just got this  A 12in powered sub that goes in the spare tire well so it doesn't take up any space. It fits even with the tire in there. It's loud and sounds fantastic. It's got a remote so you can adjust the gain, bass boost, crossover and phase from the front seat. You can have it sound good or turn it up to ridiculous levels if you want to be a dick pulling into the gas station or at a stop light. It's held tight to the floor with the spare tire mount so you can really feel it throughout the car. I loving love it, highly recommended if you're a music addict like me. I'm blown away by how that amount of sound can comes from such a small package. It's probably equivalent to 2 medium grade 10s in a small box, surprisingly punchy since it has a passive radiator along with the active speaker. Does a good kick drum as well as boomy drum machine deep bass Last big thing to do is the front crank seal. It finally let go and is pissing oil onto the header and smoking which annoys me muchly. I want to wrap the header but not if oil will be seeping into it. The only seals I didn't do was that and the cam seals so I'm going to do them all while I have it apart. After that there will be no more leaks which will awesome on a 23 year old car with 226k. Then I can get to the cosmetics. They sell quarter panel/wheel well patches so I may get to that this winter and have a pretty nice old car when I'm done. It runs/shifts fantastic, all the suspension has been gone through, all new exhaust front to back, two sets of almost new tires, everything works except the lock button on the driver's side so I'll leave that one broken thing. It's got navigation, Bluetooth, DVD player, USB and aux inputs, a killer stereo and the interior is in great shape. I may swap in heated seats since that's the only thing it doesn't have that I would want. Maybe a turbo engine and 5 speed someday too  
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Sep 30, 2020 05:58
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What brand/model sub is that? The picture isn't clear enough to tell, unfortunately. Our '03 Outback needs more than the pathetic McIntosh 6x9 "subwoofer" can produce. I could put something more substantial in that location with sheet-metal surgery, but a drop-in to the spare tire would be nice. edit: is that the same one that DrChu put in their BRZ? Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Sep 30, 2020 |
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Sep 30, 2020 18:11
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Curious about that as well. It's also a nice stealth solution. I can sell off my old amp and sub to help fund it too. I don't think I'll ever be using the spare anyway (it's 18 years old, I don't trust tires that are old enough to be in porn).
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Sep 30, 2020 19:04
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Yep it's the same one as DrChu, a Cerwin Vega. It was a little less than $300 on eBay. I can't recommend it enough for the space savings and I've had about 8 million different stereo setups in my life and I'm seriously impressed with it. With the remote you can have it so it just perfectly compliments the interior speakers or when a kick-rear end song comes on you can crank it enough to make all your rear view mirrors useless. It's not going to win an SPL contest or anything but it's loud enough for some serious fun. I swear I'm not sponsored by CW I'm just really happy with it. The powered speaker points down so I wonder if firing down into the "bowl" of the spare tire well somehow spreads the soundwaves up and out and adds to how good it sounds. No idea if that's a thing but it makes sense in my head. Just got back from the alignment shop and with that and the new rack/tie rods and well the car runs since I adjusted the TPS it's just an absolute joy to drive. Washed it too   
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Sep 30, 2020 20:36
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Oohhhh yea almost forgot about the update for the Scirocco, the real protagonist of the thread. I've been having trouble figuring out why the alternator isn't charging. I've got no battery light on the dash so I checked the wire all the way to the bulb and it's good. I assume the bulb is good since it's an LED, I didn't bother checking it because I'm not getting voltage from the excite circuit anyway right on the alternator. I put new brushes/reg in it since they are one unit and easy to replace. Still nothing. I'm not sure what else could be wrong besides a break in the windings. I didn't bother checking them and just ordered a rebuilt alternator from an electric motor rebuilding place on eBay. After all the work making the engine bay look good it was cheap enough to just get an alternator that looks good and hopefully fixes the problem. I checked all the other things such as wiring and grounds too so it has to be the alternator not working. The whole reason I haven't moved forward with hooking the turbo to the carb was getting the wideband to work and it's all set now. The problem is that it won't start heating up until it sees over 13 volts or so so that it knows the engine is running and it doesn't ruin the sensor if it has condensation on it. Once my charging system/wb is working I have all the parts to finally get the thing boosted.
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Sep 30, 2020 21:28
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I have no idea if this applies, but don't some alternators get their sense or excite voltage through the dash bulb? It being an LED may be related.
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Sep 30, 2020 21:39
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yep it's the same one as DrChu, a Cerwin Vega. It was a little less than $300 on eBay. I can't recommend it enough for the space savings and I've had about 8 million different stereo setups in my life and I'm seriously impressed with it. With the remote you can have it so it just perfectly compliments the interior speakers or when a kick-rear end song comes on you can crank it enough to make all your rear view mirrors useless. It's not going to win an SPL contest or anything but it's loud enough for some serious fun. Thanks, I'll look into it. shy boy from chess club posted:Oohhhh yea almost forgot about the update for the Scirocco, the real protagonist of the thread. I've been having trouble figuring out why the alternator isn't charging. I've got no battery light on the dash so I checked the wire all the way to the bulb and it's good. I assume the bulb is good since it's an LED, I didn't bother checking it because I'm not getting voltage from the excite circuit anyway right on the alternator. I put new brushes/reg in it since they are one unit and easy to replace. Still nothing. I'm not sure what else could be wrong besides a break in the windings. I didn't bother checking them and just ordered a rebuilt alternator from an electric motor rebuilding place on eBay. After all the work making the engine bay look good it was cheap enough to just get an alternator that looks good and hopefully fixes the problem. kastein posted:I have no idea if this applies, but don't some alternators get their sense or excite voltage through the dash bulb? It being an LED may be related. That, or a polarity issue with said LED. #1, the alt light should be on any time the ignition is on, and the engine isn't running. That's your bulb test.
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Sep 30, 2020 23:04
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Yea I know about the bulb but there is no power at the excite terminal on the alternator. It doesn't come on with the key. I tried hooking a bulb up directly to it to bypass the dash bulb but no dice. The wire is good and the ground for the bulb is good because the other bulbs work and they share the ground. One easy test I just thought of now is putting 12v to the excite wire to see if the bulb does come on, not sure why I didn't think of that yet. If it does then I know for sure something is up with the excite on the alt. I do believe by looking at the schematic that the ignition switch is the ground that turns on the dash bulbs so that isn't the problem either. I'm going to take apart the old alt to see what runs the excite circuit and then I'll understand how it works completely. Maybe there is a diode in there that's smoked. It's weird because I would have thought I did something wrong with all the digging into the electrical system with the recent work that I did but it was working after I put everything back together. It stopped working suddenly. E: oh yea meant to say I didn't mess with the dash bulbs before it stopped working. I never needed to take any of that apart for the work I was doing. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Oct 1, 2020 |
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Oct 1, 2020 01:49
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Alternator got here today, the rebuild place is in my state so it got here so fast. Sadly won't have time to put it in until maybe tomorrow. If it fixes the problem I'll be so stoked.
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Oct 1, 2020 19:32
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The pads on the right side front of the wagon were worn unevenly from a stuck caliper when I replaced the pads and rotors a while back. It was bothering me so I got some Hawks to replace them today and man what a difference, these pads have some awesome bite. I did the rear brakes a month or two ago so the brakes are freakin fantastic now. Since all the mechanical stuff has been gone through and the car drives mint I started doing some deep cleaning and I got some rust converter to start taking care of that. I won't be fixing that yet just exposing it all and stopping it from getting worse for now. This is the first time I've even gotten a sticker with brake parts Hopefully I can get to the alternator on the VW tomorrow but work and daily driver stuff gets priority. Got a new pen cup for my desk too  
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Oct 2, 2020 23:49
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My Outback definitely has.. something.. with the front brakes. The LF wheel is loaded up with dust, the RF looks clean. Doesn't pull at all, no noticeable difference in heat coming off of the wheels, but there's a squeaking coming from up front whenever I'm not braking (gets louder for a moment as I ease into the brakes, then goes away). Almost like a wear indicator, except it's a squeaking instead of a squeal. It sounds like the right front...  Front pads and rotors have about 8k on them. The only oddity with the brakes is they feel a little squishy, but I can definitely trigger the ABS if I lay into the pedal. It stops drat good considering it's a 2 ton wagon with parts store brake pads (stock 2 piston calipers up front probably help a bit). Haven't looked at rears.
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Oct 3, 2020 18:09
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It's probably a stuck caliper, mine gave no indication of being stuck like pulling, noise, nothing. I found it when I put new pads on and then when I went to bed them in it started smoking and hanging up. It took a while to get a replacement caliper and I was able to drive it but it destroyed the pads and made tons of dust. I ended up putting the new caliper on the old pads that got smoked since they had some life left but they were uneven. That was like a year ago and the pads I put on yesterday replaced the uneven ones. I still can't get over how good the Hawks are. I had them on my gti but I don't remember them being this great. So happy with them
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Oct 3, 2020 19:24
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HPS? Hawks are good but the dust isn't worth the trade off for a street driven car IMO.
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Oct 3, 2020 23:33
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Yea HPS, sucks about the dust but I can pressure wash them if it happens a lot. I have mine setup all summer for washing my machines. New alternator works so now the wideband works. I can finally start messing with boost! Still working on enrichment ideas in my head but I'll figure that out once the turbo is plumbed https://streamable.com/incw5u
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Oct 4, 2020 00:01
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Yeah I'm leaning toward stuck caliper as well, but even if I REALLY lay into them (both just on the threshold of ABS trigger, and pissing off the ABS), no smoke, no pulling, you just eat a chunk of the steering wheel. It's been almost 10k, I should pull the front wheels and see how the pads are wearing. FWIW, I do know the FR hub is.... uh, a little bent. Dunno if that'd make a difference (it's the FL that's loading up with dust). Been putting off replacing the hub and bearing because I've never dealt with pressing in bearings myself.  Speaking of, best way to bleed these if I do replace the front calipers? This is my first ABS car, I'm scared of getting air into the ABS pump. I'm assuming something like a pressure bleeder (and plugging the line so the MC doesn't run dry) is my best bet?
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Oct 4, 2020 15:26
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Bleeding is easy but yea just don't let the mc get dry. Pressure bleeding works best but most of the time I just let it gravity bleed. It takes a while if you wait until new fluid comes out but if your fluid is not that old all you have to wait for is the bubbles to stop. I use a clear hose or you can submerge the end of a black hose in fluid and watch for the bubbles to stop. Then a few days later after driving it some I repeat the process and usually get a few more bubbles out.
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Oct 4, 2020 20:00
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I, uh, haven't ever looked inside the MC. Just a quick visual from outside of "yup, there's something visible through the plastic", and a pedal stomp to make sure ABS works. I've really given zero fucks on this thing except for the bare minimums (plus an ATF change with a bit of Lucas ATF additive, because this transmission is not long for this world). It's definitely had a cooling system and transmission service pretty recently (well, "recently" as in shortly before I bought it, but I've put <10k on it in the past year), it wouldn't surprise me if it got a brake fluid flush. But I've never popped the cap on the MC.  The coolant looked brand loving new when I had to swap the radiator, ATF looked pretty recent too. Belts look pretty fresh, has a Subaru-labeled reman alternator (in the small print it says rebuilt by Mitsubishi Electric) that looked brand new when I got it (still the shiniest part under the hood).It was cared for by POs. I'm just.. acting like the final PO it'll ever have. I mean, I've used store brand oil for the oil changes (TBF I stock up on our store brand oil when our employee discount jumps to 25% from 10% occasionally... it's made by Warren, it's synthetic, and it winds up being less than $2/qt when we get the occasional bump in discounts).
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Oct 5, 2020 16:39
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Just a short video of progress on the Scirocco. I might be able to test it under boost tomorrow! I have to wait for some RTV to harden overnight that you'll see in the video and hopefully it dries up outside. It's snowing right now and I don't want to drive my car in it in case any salt was used. Sorry about the loud throat clearing Ive got a cold https://youtu.be/ya-D1s7ofgE
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Oct 30, 2020 20:50
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Got everything done today so it runs and has boost! Unfortunately I blew a boost pipe before I could get video so I'll have to do it tomorrow. Air fuel ratios aren't too bad, around 14 under boost so not too much enrichment should be needed. I can probably jet/air bleed/mod the power valve enough to get it around 12. It ripped right before the boost pipe let go so it's going to be super fun when everything isn't in the jank testing setup. Video of today's work https://youtu.be/glVISWyzuek
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Oct 31, 2020 23:44
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No idea what your CR is but that sounds lean to me.
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Nov 1, 2020 01:17
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10-1, maybe a little more since I got the head planed. It's definitely too lean just way better than I thought so I won't have to do anything drastic for enrichment. I've got one step colder plugs to put in as well once everything is working better. The suckiest part is the archaic control over the timing with just a distributor but I'm not going to go crazy with this setup it's just practice for how I want to do things with the TDI like where I have room for things like boost piping, where to run the oil drain for the turbo, stuff like that.
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Nov 1, 2020 05:51
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Did a lot of messing around today and under boost it's holding 12.5-13 which is amazing for doing nothing, not even a jet change yet. I messed up my shift linkage swapping in a new bushing a while back so as soon as I get it adjusted I can get some good long rips instead if just in my driveway and get some good video. Gonna shoot for this weekend. I have to adjust the wastegate since right now I have to give it heaps of throttle to get boost. I do know that I have it so that minimal boost will open it since I had no idea how it would react and I wanted to play it safe with lousy control over the af ratio and timing. Had to ditch the radiator hose intake cause it was collapsing on me so more cobbling is needed for filtration. In TDI news I've got the ECU I wanted on the way along with a wiring harness for the engine. The MK3 ECU would need to be socketed and a PROM burned every time I wanted to change the tune and no way I wanted to mess with that. Now I can flash it through the obd port. I'm either going with a flashzilla and email tunes or sending the ECU to the tuner I've known for years. The flashzilla is faster but I've known the other guy for literally 15 years and he will let me experiment more with taking risks a on pushing my setup if I want to depending on how brave I'm feeling. E: OH YEA I almost forgot that I'm going on Friday to get a not rusty hood! This has been my white whale with this car for 14 years! Got it for $100 and about a 2 hour drive. I'm the most stoked about this, it's the only rusty thing on the car and it's bad. Sciroccos and Caddy's both have dual hood latches on either side and the one on my passenger side is so bad I'm surprised that it hasn't snapped off yet. My current hood also has a lot of sentimental value to me. When I was living in Florida a friend of mine and I painted it after watching Death Proof. It may have involved some alcohol as well. Then another friend of mine and I drove it to Cincy like that through all the states from FL to OH. Everyone there was calling us Death Proof. I'm going to treat the rust with converter and hang it on my shop wall so I'll have it forever. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Nov 5, 2020 |
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Nov 5, 2020 00:09
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Awesome news! You're making good strides on this thing. I bet it feels nice to find that hood, and if there's someone out there that didn't want to have a flat black Nova with a skull on the hood after that movie they have no automotive soul. Actually having the follow through to paint a hood like that though is legendary.
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Nov 6, 2020 04:41
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I think there were a few around after the movie came out but I wonder how many survivors there are. I just got home with the hood, 7 hours of driving. I took the scenic route through CT and it was awesome. It fit in the outback and I was really happy I didn't have to strap it to the roof. Not a great pic but the exciting part is finally having it In other extremely exciting news I finally found the hardware and software to do my own tuning on the TDI. The hardware was less than $100 and the software is free and I have a couple to choose from. I can do it on the bench so I can't wait to check out what the maps look like for a TDI. Hardware should be here next week and the ECU this weekend. The newest version of the hardware has automatic checksum protection so I'm glad I got it now instead of earlier. I only kinda know what I'm doing and that will be a huge help in not bricking an ECU.
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Nov 7, 2020 01:10
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You make a post in the Projects megathread and don't update this? For shame!
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Apr 1, 2021 16:48
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I finally found my boost piping I bought a million years ago so once I finish the head gaskets I'm working on right now I should be able to make a boosted 8V video.
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Apr 1, 2021 17:23
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