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shy boy from chess club posted:Got an appointment in the morning, shop is like 4 miles so I dont have to sweat too much. Love how the wheels look and did some work under the hood too. Oof, that rust hole. Now that I own a second-gen Outback, I kind of want to find a manual first gen to lift and play with. Kinda. I don't have a shortage of other cars right now. I would just start modifying the '03, but it's currently the wife's daily, so best to leave it alone for now. I wish I could just throw a manual in there (H6 automatic) but she needs the auto - back issues make using a clutch a literal pain. Until this car, she had all manuals. Heck, if there was a way to program the automatic to be better, that would be nice. It *really* wants to upshift ASAP and hates to downshift. edit: I bet a wrecking yard will sell you a bent hood or fender cheap, since it's only worth scrap.
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Jan 9, 2020 17:41
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shy boy from chess club posted:Wait mines a first gen? I thought it was second but now that I think about it it was a Loyale previously, oops. Yup. 1G: '94-99 There was a generation of Legacy wagons before that, but they were never Outback-ed. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Outback edit: so, 1G Outbacks are 2G Legacies, and so on. Mine is an '03, so almost the end of the second generation. I'd now like a 3G with the H6. I like the styling better, and you can actually put headers on 'em. More factory lift, too. Don't really like the fourth and fifth gens - they got a little... melty? looking. Less "sporty" and/or butch for sure. Not sure how to describe what it is about the styling I don't like. Too bland and faux-"upscale", maybe? Can be fixed with mods, though. The Impreza based OB Sports are neat, too, but I like the station wagon utility of the Legacy-based version. taqueso posted:That's nothing, you should see my subaru Don't wanna.
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Jan 9, 2020 21:12
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shy boy from chess club posted:I found the reason for the MAF code, bad solder joint that was probably touching intermittently that detached when I opened the cover. Reflowed it and that code went away. What mentally deficient fuckwit designed that so that the leads have to cross? And then left them uninsulated? Wow...
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Jan 10, 2020 18:44
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shy boy from chess club posted:It was on wholesale blowout sale on rockauto for reaaaal cheap. It does work though, the old one was bad for sure. Ah, so not OEM. Got it.
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Jan 10, 2020 18:47
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Raluek posted:it gets goopy real easy. leaves tons of residue. and if you find some old bits that have been around for a bit, theyre all dried out and crusty. the backing comes right off, leaving a solid crust of adhesive. it is un-good. I've got a roll of matte grey 3M gaffer tape that does none of those things. Bought it cheap from a guy at a swap meet selling all kinds of 3M stuff, mainly body shop supplies. $5! I like it because it does all the gaffer tape things, plus is easy to write on with a sharpie, so makes good labels, too. Had extension cords taped down for Christmas lights outside all December, and it came back up with no issues or goop. STR posted:Same with mine. Annoying, ain't it? I have to really beat it to keep it from upshifting. And when you do that, it shift nice and crisply, oddly enough. Mine was way worse when I bought it, but it learned. shy boy from chess club posted:Have you tried messing with the TPS? Apparently mines been out of adjustment for like ever and I didnt know until I failed emissions because there were codes but my light never came on. All I did was while it was idling I moved it slowly until the idle settled and now it idles freakin awesome and shifts at like 3-3.5k even when im not whaling on it plus the code went away and it will pass emissions. Im actually glad it failed cause now it runs sofa king great. For you personally Id wait until you get the filters and fluid squared up then see what happens Worth trying.
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Jan 14, 2020 21:39
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Raluek posted:Maybe they have different models/qualities, and the stuff I had was the bad stuff. It was like $30 a roll, so comparable with the other brands I was familiar with Huh. I’ll have to watch for that, then. I dread replacing the current roll. I definitely got a heck of a deal, but this stuff is so useful I’ll have to get another one. At least they’re huge rolls.
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Jan 15, 2020 15:32
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Looks like a fairly common boat/off-roader rocker switch. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WFDP5DB or this, without lights: https://www.amazon.com/Bandc-Marine-Rocker-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B00DRAW8ZK
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Feb 4, 2020 22:58
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Dangit, I do not need any encouragement to spend money on my RC10 chassis. I don't have a radio or anything (yet).STR posted:Any Subaru dealer can cut a new key with proof of ownership. I had to do that to get a key that actually opened (almost) everything. There's no immobilizer on that year model (USDM anyway), it ran me $15. Stupid question, but what do they want for proof-of-ownership? The title? I want new OEM keys cut for the OB and my Crown Vic.
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Feb 11, 2020 00:27
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shy boy from chess club posted:Have you looked on amazon at radios and batteries yet? Theyre reeaaal cheap, I can get you some links if you want, first ones on me No, I haven't. Mainly, I'm not actually sure what to look for - haven't done the research, so links actually would be appreciated if you have them handy. NitroSpazzz posted:You guys are not helping me resist the urge QFT STR posted:I took the purchase receipt from the dealer; a registration receipt or title would also work. Make sure you have your ID. Thanks. quote:The Crown Vic probably has an immobilizer; you might see if you can get them to cut a plain key blank without the chip, then get a locksmith to clone your existing chip to a new key. At least that way the locksmith has a fresh key to copy. Nope. Cop car = no chip-key
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Feb 11, 2020 21:40
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STR posted:there's a long 7mm bolt sticking out of them for up/down. A ratcheting GM side post battery wrench works perfect (it's a SAE 9/16 wrench IIRC, but it's close enough that it works). There's a left/right screw under a plastic cap too, but you shouldn't need to touch that unless the apron took a hit. You mean 9/32”. 9/16” is between 14 and 15mm.
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Mar 3, 2020 19:27
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shy boy from chess club posted:The only thing I remember using a 9/32 for is old 80s/90s GM interior bolts. I think there were probably 10-15 9/32 sockets dropped into inaccessible places in my 87 Z28 That's exactly why I know 9/32 and 7mm are the same, but also the side-post battery terminals that STR was talking about. I've used both for, well, both. I used to do mobile electronics, and dealt with a lot of '90s GMs. I even have a drawer in my screw organizer marked "GM screws" for the small collection I amassed. Thank God they started putting T10s in them as well.
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Mar 3, 2020 22:35
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shy boy from chess club posted:Side posts are 5/16 or the two are really close maybe 5/16" is 8mm, and you're right, I think. Not sure why I thought the terminals were 7mm.
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Mar 3, 2020 23:08
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STR posted:Mine's pissing ATF really loving bad now (it's leaving a ~2 ft wide puddle every time I park), so the pan is coming off really soon. The internal filter will get changed when I finally get around to that. Reminds me I still need to change the filter on ours - not as easy, since the 3.0 necessitates tucking the trans filter up in the inner fender for some reason. And change the plugs. And the cam cover gaskets, so it stops slowly pissing oil. Really like the blue on yours, shy boy, though the white on ours will at least be cooler in summer here in TX. Wish my trans would shift quickly and firmly. Only thing really letting down the flat-six. Maybe the filter will help. If not, may move on to the internal filter and fresh fluid. Even the wife complains about it a bit.
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Apr 15, 2020 20:22
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says the transmission got replaced with the engine.
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shy boy from chess club posted:Hell Diesel?
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Apr 15, 2020 20:25
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Krakkles posted:Yep: Ah, missed that detail on the description.
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Apr 15, 2020 21:20
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shy boy from chess club posted:This one I can actually get compressor and turbine maps for and apply some math instead of going in blind like the cheapy turbo Overrated. Where's the fun in that?
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Apr 20, 2020 22:32
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I kinda want to build a Fiero-kart, partially because it’s easy, but also because you don’t have to mess with the safety structure at all if you don’t want to. Just remove all the body panels. Guess it doesn’t really change the weight much, either, though.
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Apr 24, 2020 17:47
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Hell, if you’ve got a grinder, you can take care of any ugly toot sweet. “Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t.”
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May 6, 2020 22:00
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I’ve seen worse behind a dash. Sometimes my own handiwork, but that was long ago. Working at a mobile electronics install shop sorted that.
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May 19, 2020 00:12
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yea a lot of that is my work from when I was in more of a hurry adding to the mess that was already there. I cut everything out that didn't need to be there and ran all new wires to the oil and water temp from the engine but reused the power and grounds from the existing wiring since they were clips that fit right on the gauges minus the EGT. I ran jumpers with spades to the clip for the EGT power so I didn't have to cut any of the car harness. There are also a few separate power and grounds for the lighting so I ran those to the gauges and one to a cold cathode tube under the radio that lights up the cubby hole. I've got a mechless Pioneer in my Crown Vic, and I'm pretty happy with it, for what it is. It's so tiny! Not as small as the super-cheap Blaupunkts from a while back, but I've not actually been able to put one of those in anything yet, since they can't do ISO mounting, only DIN via the sleeve. All my recent use cases have been ISO. Probably replacing the Pioneer with a double DIN so I can use it with a backup camera, and get CarPlay, which I've grown enamored of in the Outback. I'd use LEDs exclusively for lighting, but I guess if you had the cold cathodes on hand, go for it. Never thought about chucking some in storage cubbies, though - good idea! I'm a huge fan of the LED panels in the dome light. It totally transforms most dome lights from weak useless things to stadium lighting that lets you actually find things in the car at night. Even the basic bulb replacements are a leap, but I like to fit the biggest multi-element panel that will squeeze into the housing. Nice save on the oil pressure issue.
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May 26, 2020 19:13
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It's fairly easy to diffuse LEDs. The newer COB LEDs do a little diffusion already by themselves, but for standard LEDs, either a little sanding of the housing if they are still the through-hole discretes, or some sanded clear plastic for SMDs. Or the neat little aluminum channel things for the tape lights with a diffused lens already included. Like these (under the reel and AC adapter):  Off:  Without lens:  On:  Evens out the light considerably. The tape lights are typically 12V nominal, and can be cut every 3 SMDs, so work pretty well in auto environments. You can solder directly to the pads, but these slip-in, click-lock pigtails are a lot easier and cleaner:  I've got two strips in the trunk of my Crown Vic, one at rear of the lid, and one under the deck, and it lights up that monstrous trunk beautifully. You can also get "outdoor" waterproof strips that are basically potted in clear silicone, but those can have heat issues, I'm told. I have some, but have not yet stress-tested them in any way. Edit: Also,for the radio, I would pick a common "car-side" connector to wire into the car, then use the appropriate radio-side adapter to wire in any aftermarket heads. The car side connectors are typically sold as "theft-replacement" harnesses. In your case, the German DIN plugs are common enough, even coming on some aftermarket radios, that I would probably use that in a VW. I like the fact that they use one block for power, and one block for signals. There are also some "Japanese" connectors that were fairly common on several brands in the late '80s-'90s. For that matter, you could just use common Molex connectors. Only need 13 pins typically, which can be split into the 5 powers and 8 speaker leads if you can't find a single connector you like. Or just wire it direct like you did. It's not like the harness doesn't unplug from the radio on anything over bout $20 now. Nothing wrong with that. I just fear commitment. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:51 on May 26, 2020 |
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May 26, 2020 22:44
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To me, that's a failure of design, literally what Murphy's Law is about, if you look it up (it's not, "if a thing can go wrong, it will" - that's Finagle's Law - but "if a thing can be done wrong, someone will do it". More about people loving things up rather the universe.) You shouldn't be able to install the floats upside down, if there were a competent engineer involved. Mazda did this to me once on my RX-7. I rebuilt the carb, and after that the vacuum secondaries never worked. I rigged it so they were mechanical (easy to do) until I saw a post regarding the same problem, involving the gasket between the body and baselate of the carb, a hole therein, and the port for vacuum feeding the secondary actuator. Turns out, the damned gasket is absolutely symmetrical - EXCEPT for that on little hole through it for that port. There's no reason it couldn't have the same hole on the other side - there's solid metal on the other side, so it literally wouldn't matter, but someone, somewhere, made the decision that they weren't going to do that, and they *also* weren't going to key or index the gasket in any way to make it difficult to install upside down. Assholes. Thankfully you can pull the carb body from the baseplate without removing the carb, because it's sort of a pain to do that on a rotary, involving cut and/or bent wrenches to access the mounting bolts. And it is nice to have a relatively simple fix to the problem. Bike sounds good!
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Sep 12, 2020 00:05
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Yep, stock Nikki on a '79 RX-7. It probably says something about it in the manual, but I missed it. Mazda makes pretty good service manuals. I'm a fan of factory service manuals even if they're not the best. Aftermarket ones are useful, though, sometimes, since there's a chance that they will contain updated and corrected material, and/or warn you of common gotchas, especially if they are intended for pro mechanics interested in saving labor time.
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Sep 14, 2020 22:19
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What brand/model sub is that? The picture isn't clear enough to tell, unfortunately. Our '03 Outback needs more than the pathetic McIntosh 6x9 "subwoofer" can produce. I could put something more substantial in that location with sheet-metal surgery, but a drop-in to the spare tire would be nice. edit: is that the same one that DrChu put in their BRZ? Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Sep 30, 2020 |
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Sep 30, 2020 18:11
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yep it's the same one as DrChu, a Cerwin Vega. It was a little less than $300 on eBay. I can't recommend it enough for the space savings and I've had about 8 million different stereo setups in my life and I'm seriously impressed with it. With the remote you can have it so it just perfectly compliments the interior speakers or when a kick-rear end song comes on you can crank it enough to make all your rear view mirrors useless. It's not going to win an SPL contest or anything but it's loud enough for some serious fun. Thanks, I'll look into it. shy boy from chess club posted:Oohhhh yea almost forgot about the update for the Scirocco, the real protagonist of the thread. I've been having trouble figuring out why the alternator isn't charging. I've got no battery light on the dash so I checked the wire all the way to the bulb and it's good. I assume the bulb is good since it's an LED, I didn't bother checking it because I'm not getting voltage from the excite circuit anyway right on the alternator. I put new brushes/reg in it since they are one unit and easy to replace. Still nothing. I'm not sure what else could be wrong besides a break in the windings. I didn't bother checking them and just ordered a rebuilt alternator from an electric motor rebuilding place on eBay. After all the work making the engine bay look good it was cheap enough to just get an alternator that looks good and hopefully fixes the problem. kastein posted:I have no idea if this applies, but don't some alternators get their sense or excite voltage through the dash bulb? It being an LED may be related. That, or a polarity issue with said LED. #1, the alt light should be on any time the ignition is on, and the engine isn't running. That's your bulb test.
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Sep 30, 2020 23:04
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