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The Scirocco is a sexy, sexy car. Can't wait to see it eventually get TDI power.
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Sep 2, 2019 17:12
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 14:36 |
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Darchangel posted:It *really* wants to upshift ASAP and hates to downshift. Same with mine. Annoying, ain't it? I have to really beat it to keep it from upshifting.
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Jan 12, 2020 16:45
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I haven't, but I was wondering if it was out of whack for that very reason. It shifts really low when I'm just cruising (like 1200 rpm upshifts), and really hates to downshift, but there's no codes at all. The hesitation to downshift has me considering somehow removing those stupid gates on the console shifter just so I can easily downshift it myself when I'm trying to pass someone, instead of waiting a couple of seconds for it to decide "oh, this rear end in a top hat really does want me to downshift. *yawn* I guesssssss I'll drop down a gear" when I stomp it. It idles a bit on the low side when warm (~600ish), I wonder if that's why? I did notice one odd quirk with the cold idle pretty quickly - when it's on the cold high idle, a quick tap of the throttle brings it down to ~750 immediately. Cold idle seems pretty low too at a pretty modest ~1250. It's been ages since I owned a car without DBW, but that's almost like kicking off the high idle on a carb'd car (except on a carb you have to give it a quick stab, this is a gentle blip). I'm used to non-DBW stuff idling around 2k when cold. I kick it down more because I'm usually in a hurry to get to work (because I like to wait until I have to be there in 10 minutes......  ), and just let it idle for ~30 seconds to get everything moving. I don't want to put extra stress on the transmission by shifting into gear with it at high idle, even though that's really not a very high "high" idle.It still feels like a completely different transmission. I'm still getting an occasional slip when going from reverse to drive until I give it gas, but the shifts are good and firm now. Still a hard shift into reverse when cold, but I'm starting to think that's just mounts and maybe worn joints on the rear driveshaft. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Jan 14, 2020 |
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Jan 14, 2020 21:00
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shy boy from chess club posted:Mine has a super high cold idle, like 1700 even 2000 if its closer to 0 outside. Before the TPS adjustment it was never consistent. Sometimes it would kick down like you are saying and sometimes it would just hang or wander up and down. It was really annoying but I thought it was just the computer adjusting to the different inputs from all the temp sensors. The tuning also might be different between our cars too since mines a MAF can and also something is up for the 94-97 cars because my newest scanner doesnt even have the updates to read my car. No MAF on mine for sure. The rock solid 1250 cold idle almost makes me wonder if it's using the IACV (or Subaru's version of it) to control the cold idle, and just looking for the TPS to change before it drops it down (it'll drop on its own over a few minutes too). It still slams into reverse, but it's only that first time, and it's not nearly as bad as it was before I changed the fluid. Though I just realized.. I can adjust it properly with a multimeter or Torque. Looks like it should show 0% with nothing on the gas, and 0.45-0.55v, key on/engine off. I'll have to check that out.
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Jan 15, 2020 23:02
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quote:Headache You didn't have to say anything else. 
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Feb 8, 2020 13:27
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Any Subaru dealer can cut a new key with proof of ownership. I had to do that to get a key that actually opened (almost) everything. There's no immobilizer on that year model (USDM anyway), it ran me $15.
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Feb 9, 2020 02:04
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Barely related, but how does cell balancing work anyway? Especially once you get into a multi-battery application? Our forklifts and pallet jacks at work run on 24V - they each have six 12V batteries, wired in series-parallel (two sets of 3; the 3 are paralleled, the two sets in series to get 24V). Our chargers automatically go into cell balancing mode once they hit something like 85% charged. They're some beefy rear end chargers that crank out nearly 100 amps @ 24V (going by the display anyway - they quickly ramp up to ~90 amps if the batteries are really low). We have one newer charger that's much smaller; one of our forklifts just got gel batteries to replace the lead acid ones, but it also does balancing. It's always amusing watching someone yank the charging cable off of one while the charger is going full bore. Big rear end spark and a loud OHSHIT. There's a big red "STOP" button on the chargers for a reason. The fuckers take 3 phase 277V power FFS. Darchangel posted:Stupid question, but what do they want for proof-of-ownership? The title? I want new OEM keys cut for the OB and my Crown Vic. I took the purchase receipt from the dealer; a registration receipt or title would also work. Make sure you have your ID. Some dealers might accept an insurance card with the VIN on it (Austin Subaru wouldn't, but I had the purchase receipt with me; the one you get as a temporary proof of registration to keep in the glove box until you get your permanent tags in TX). David McDavid Acura accepted an insurance card, but that was around 2004. The Crown Vic probably has an immobilizer; you might see if you can get them to cut a plain key blank without the chip, then get a locksmith to clone your existing chip to a new key. At least that way the locksmith has a fresh key to copy.
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Feb 11, 2020 16:39
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Hey pipkin, you remember how you mentioned I should check my TPS, on any Subaru really? Checked it over OBD2 with the engine off before leaving work today. It was maxing out between 84-86% wide open, but 0 without touching the throttle with the engine off, 0.8% with the engine running on a cold start. Tried opening the throttle body slowly by hand with the engine off, and it went to 100% smoothly. The cable has a good bit of slack (enough that I'm worried it might pop out of the butterfly eventually), I was all set to tighten it up a bit. Then noticed something when I went to unplug my OBD2 adapter... Fake edit: damnit to be continued once I get inside, Firefox mobile is being a dick about pasting an imgur link. real edit:   My floormat has the retaining hole for the peg that's normally in the carpet. The carpet, however, doesn't have the plastic peg that's normally there. I don't know if the carpet has been replaced (if it has, it fits exactly like factory carpet) or maybe they just didn't put them in on the early 03s (maybe the floormats are from an 04? they're in fantastic shape for being nearly 18 years old [build date of 5/02]). Or maybe it broke off without a trace somehow?  Putting the floormat back where it goes and stomping the gas (key on/engine off) shows 100%. Driving home, it felt a shitload peppier when I stomped it, and actually wound up right to redline before shifting (instead of ~5500).I'm a dumbass. And I need to figure out a way to secure the floormat better. I might be doing babby's first head gasket job.  Heard water rushing behind the dash when I started it yesterday, so I knew it had developed an air pocket.. found the overflow bone dry. Radiator was full when I pulled the cap at first, but revving it a bit got some bubbles out and the level dropped a bit. Took about 1/4 gallon to top off both the radiator and get the overflow quite a bit over the max line, and the overflow was way down again this morning, but not empty (it was between min and max). I do smell coolant sometimes at idle (coming in via the HVAC, and I can smell it outside of the car), I'll be loving thrilled if the radiator is just letting go instead of head gaskets. Price of admission to the EJ club I guess. Though for what I paid for it, if I get a year out of it it won't owe me a drat thing.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Feb 29, 2020 |
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Feb 29, 2020 16:10
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Polish those headlights man. They don't look that bad when you first look at them, but they're a crappy enough design (when new) that even a tiny bit of haze really destroys the light output. They basically turned the single-bulb Legacy housing into a dual-bulb housing for the Legacy GT/Outback, and it was a hack at best. HF has a solid drill-style polishing kit for ~$15. Yours are way worse than mine were (though I eventually wound up going the JDM HID route); they were like having flashlights taped to the hood, Roadkill style. Aim them too; there's a long 7mm bolt sticking out of them for up/down. A ratcheting GM side post battery wrench works perfect (it's a SAE 9/16 wrench IIRC, but it's close enough that it works). There's a left/right screw under a plastic cap too, but you shouldn't need to touch that unless the apron took a hit. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Mar 3, 2020 |
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Mar 3, 2020 17:01
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shy boy from chess club posted:Oh yep Im going to do the headlights too. I tried a little of the medium cut on a spot and it worked well so Ill do medium, light then polish and they should look pretty good. Ive got a 5" DA that I use and it works good on the paint and lights. If they need more pressure Ill try the drill style next. Mine weren't nearly as bad, but it still took a good 20 minutes per side with the drill style.   It made enough of a difference that people started flipping me off and brake checking me when I'd come up behind them. My rear springs are sagging bad enough that they were pointed at the sky, and I didn't even realize it until I went to work that night.  (I aimed them a bit lower the next day)
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Mar 4, 2020 07:40
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Your OBW's rear suspension is in better shape than mine. Mine's sagging enough that the rear wheels have a little bit of camber to them. ... no rust on mine though, aside from where something knocked a bit of paint off of the tailgate (looks like something fell on it at some point). Love that color combo. So I hammered it around a turn on my way home, fully expecting it to slog down into 2nd and slowwwwwwly accelerate. Nope, dropped into 1st immediately and took off like a rocket (relatively speaking). loving floormat was keeping it from downshifting this whole time?! 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Mar 7, 2020 |
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Mar 7, 2020 15:56
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Oh, that's after quick struts? Looks good then. That's the height I'm hoping to get - and I thought every bushing in the back of mine was bad too. Still kinda think they are, but kinda suspect it's just because it's basically lowered because of the sagging springs. It sounds like a dorm bed with an orgy going on anytime I drive it.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Mar 7, 2020 |
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Mar 7, 2020 20:16
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That's a lovely check engine light you have there. Mine was on long enough that someone had tape over it at one point. Tape was gone when I got it, but the residue is still there. (and all it needed was the O2 sensor..  )
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Apr 10, 2020 03:42
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Wait, it actually threw a code for the knock sensor? I'm used to the Nissan approach - on an NA motor (at least, 90s stuff), it throws a code, but doesn't actually trip the light (or fail smog). I had no idea my Altima had a bad knock sensor until I pulled codes. Then got an ebay sensor for $20 vs the $300+ from the dealer.... then quickly learned why it was $20. It pulled timing so loving hard that I couldn't get past about 60 WOT in 3rd (couldn't maintain 60 in 4th or 5th), when that car could normally bury the 120 mph speedometer so hard that it would almost wrap back to 0 (on a closed track in Mexico, obviously). I wound up just unplugging it on the Altima, and it went back to being able to do illegal speeds in Mexico. Still no CEL, passed smog fine (we do OBD2 checks here). That car was stupid quick for what it was. It didn't get up to speed in a hurry (it was a truck engine that Nissan halfassed into a Bluebird, FFS - it was all low end power), but it didn't fall flat on its face once you hit 5th either. I'm sure the shorter final drive gearbox it eventually wound up with helped more than a bit (1st was burnout city after the swap). I'm super jealous of the transmission you described.... my Brokeback is sloppy as hell, especially once you've driven more than 30 minutes. I'm hoping the new radiator helps a bit, the old one was so nasty (and very, very clogged, you couldn't even see fins on much of it). I need to get under it and figure out why it suddenly started pissing 10x more ATF than usual too, I may be pulling the pan soon. It looks like either the pan or tailshaft seal, from an armchair look. I've been pulling codes just from paranoia on the Brokeback every few days. I've seen an occasional pending evap - small leak code, but it hasn't ever been there long enough to trip the CEL. It has the original gas cap from 2002 (early 03 model, built 5/02), gonna just start there first. It has no rust, so hopefully it's not the filler neck.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Apr 10, 2020 |
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Apr 10, 2020 08:42
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Mine's pissing ATF really loving bad now (it's leaving a ~2 ft wide puddle every time I park), so the pan is coming off really soon. The internal filter will get changed when I finally get around to that.  It shifts pretty nice when it's cold, once it gets more than 15-20 minutes under its belt it gets pretty sloppy. Though it stopped flaring at least.  says the transmission got replaced with the engine.
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Apr 10, 2020 19:28
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Curious about that as well. It's also a nice stealth solution. I can sell off my old amp and sub to help fund it too. I don't think I'll ever be using the spare anyway (it's 18 years old, I don't trust tires that are old enough to be in porn).
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Sep 30, 2020 19:04
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My Outback definitely has.. something.. with the front brakes. The LF wheel is loaded up with dust, the RF looks clean. Doesn't pull at all, no noticeable difference in heat coming off of the wheels, but there's a squeaking coming from up front whenever I'm not braking (gets louder for a moment as I ease into the brakes, then goes away). Almost like a wear indicator, except it's a squeaking instead of a squeal. It sounds like the right front... Front pads and rotors have about 8k on them. The only oddity with the brakes is they feel a little squishy, but I can definitely trigger the ABS if I lay into the pedal. It stops drat good considering it's a 2 ton wagon with parts store brake pads (stock 2 piston calipers up front probably help a bit). Haven't looked at rears.
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Oct 3, 2020 18:09
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Yeah I'm leaning toward stuck caliper as well, but even if I REALLY lay into them (both just on the threshold of ABS trigger, and pissing off the ABS), no smoke, no pulling, you just eat a chunk of the steering wheel. It's been almost 10k, I should pull the front wheels and see how the pads are wearing. FWIW, I do know the FR hub is.... uh, a little bent. Dunno if that'd make a difference (it's the FL that's loading up with dust). Been putting off replacing the hub and bearing because I've never dealt with pressing in bearings myself.  Speaking of, best way to bleed these if I do replace the front calipers? This is my first ABS car, I'm scared of getting air into the ABS pump. I'm assuming something like a pressure bleeder (and plugging the line so the MC doesn't run dry) is my best bet?
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Oct 4, 2020 15:26
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 14:36 |
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I, uh, haven't ever looked inside the MC. Just a quick visual from outside of "yup, there's something visible through the plastic", and a pedal stomp to make sure ABS works. I've really given zero fucks on this thing except for the bare minimums (plus an ATF change with a bit of Lucas ATF additive, because this transmission is not long for this world). It's definitely had a cooling system and transmission service pretty recently (well, "recently" as in shortly before I bought it, but I've put <10k on it in the past year), it wouldn't surprise me if it got a brake fluid flush. But I've never popped the cap on the MC. The coolant looked brand loving new when I had to swap the radiator, ATF looked pretty recent too. Belts look pretty fresh, has a Subaru-labeled reman alternator (in the small print it says rebuilt by Mitsubishi Electric) that looked brand new when I got it (still the shiniest part under the hood).It was cared for by POs. I'm just.. acting like the final PO it'll ever have. I mean, I've used store brand oil for the oil changes (TBF I stock up on our store brand oil when our employee discount jumps to 25% from 10% occasionally... it's made by Warren, it's synthetic, and it winds up being less than $2/qt when we get the occasional bump in discounts).
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Oct 5, 2020 16:39
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