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I don't have any establishing wide shots, because this was not supposed to have turned into a project. But here we are. My 93 RX7 is single turbo with a half bridge. I wanted to move down in size on the exhaust housing.  But that turned into "well that should be worked on, and that should have been done better, why did I do it like this?" Basically 15 years of "GETTT ERR DOONNEE" has amounted to a pile of poo poo in the engine bay. So I'm slowly pulling most of the things out except for the engine.  The plan is Replace AC lines with AN hoses Replace PS lines with AN Replace dual oil passive coolers with one fan cooled cooler Replace OEM fans with slim brushless PWM fans with controller. I think I can get my AEM to drive them if I set the tables up correctly. poo poo can a ton of the stock relays and wiring, wire tuck (kinda). And fix whatever else needs fixing.   Water manifold tapped and plugged.  Gross stock fans on a Koyo:  Me afraid to touch air bag wires:  Body side of ignition harness (im gonna cut you)  The only real truth 
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Nov 3, 2019 06:35
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Can you do AC hoses in AN? Edit: Just did a search- HOLY gently caress THATS EXPENSIVE... $150 a meter for a loving AC hose, Without fittings????
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Nov 3, 2019 14:53
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Ferremit posted:Can you do AC hoses in AN? It's like 20 bucks a foot in the US, not that crazy. I'm loving the lightweight racing hood prop. Good luck with your braps.
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Nov 3, 2019 19:35
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Yeah it's not too bad. Plus I work for an engine builder so there's a good discount. There are AC to AN adapters but I'm just going to cut the ends of the existing lines and weld on AN fittings. My system might be "AN compatable" but I'm not sure what that means other than the thread pitch matching.
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Nov 3, 2019 22:45
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Small update. I had this powdercoated alternator case I could never get to work, so I went ahead and removed as many powdercoated contact points that I could  Blasting the oil off the coil and charging harness before tearing it down:  Chineseium oil cooler with fan to replace dual setup:     That's it for now.
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Nov 8, 2019 05:27
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Bonus Angel Hair pasta.
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Nov 8, 2019 05:37
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Liking this thread, but that last pic stresses me out
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Nov 8, 2019 08:28
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Bonus Angel Hair pasta. oh my good god
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Nov 8, 2019 08:58
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What, you guys don't like pasta? I do motorsports electrical and electronics for a living so my fear level has flatlined.
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Nov 8, 2019 16:19
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Aeka 2.0 posted:What, you guys don't like pasta? LOL. I left the same way before I did robotics as a job. Now it's just a puzzle and it just takes time to decrypt it.
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Nov 9, 2019 14:39
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sharkytm posted:LOL. I left the same way before I did robotics as a job. Now it's just a puzzle and it just takes time to decrypt it. Yeah man, just categorizing it for my eyes, the schematics are detailed but are hard to explore, so i make these. I just started on this one. 
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Nov 10, 2019 00:57
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What RPM are you targeting for full boost? You 500hp setup was something wildly unusable above 5k, right? I’m getting old and full boost above 3k just makes me angry. I couldn’t stand the STI at altitude because it wouldn’t make power until 3500 (and the power it did make sucked). Since you’re going full custom, could you do two sequential turbos with bigger and more modern turbos than what it came with? Turbos have come a long way in 25 years and having one turbo come on at 2500 and another at 4500 would be smooooth. If we lived closer and I had an extra garage space I would involuntarily sign you up to help me with a 20B FD. Your wiring game is strong. I’m still amazed how flawless your work was on the standalone EFI X2 we installed on the Elise.
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Nov 11, 2019 04:04
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Zoom Zoom, motherfuckers
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a sequential setup just sounds like an expensive nightmare that I don't want to deal with. I'm not even running ball bearing because of cost right now. Precision Turbo has pretty scoocum housings that I'm using and my target is just "better than it was." I'm very la dee dah about it all. I just want it to run well and look good.
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Nov 11, 2019 21:13
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Aeka 2.0 posted:a sequential setup just sounds like an expensive nightmare that I don't want to deal with. I'm not even running ball bearing because of cost right now. Precision Turbo has pretty scoocum housings that I'm using and my target is just "better than it was." I'm very la dee dah about it all. I just want it to run well and look good. Skookum. And one out of two isn't bad. 
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Nov 11, 2019 22:47
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Oh hey, long time no see. Modernish engine management plus newer turbos should mean boost comes in timely.
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Nov 12, 2019 02:41
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Yeah ive been gone from AI for far too long. Kids changed my priorities.sharkytm posted:Skookum. Thanks, trying to use new dumb words more often.
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Nov 12, 2019 21:23
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These are the fans coming in later this week: Prepping up the AC compressor fittings for some AN ends.  This is going to just be random poo poo when I get to it kind of build, hah.
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Nov 12, 2019 21:46
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While waiting for the fans I got a surprise package from Japan. I'll take two packs of smokes and a strut bar please:  The original idea was to replace the stock bar for something raised a bit higher so my sub box could tuck in under it  That was not the final result as all i could go by was photos. Oh well...  You shiny gently caress! I never cared for aftermarket bars, what possible advantage could they have over stock?  I have a small battery, so I thought it would be a good idea to get a capacitor to help smooth out heavy hits to the alternator, BUT I'm only familiar with microfarad units and didn't know how big a real farad was. So I have a cap bigger than my battery, where the gently caress do I put this thing?  Bonus work photo of me about to dig into some of this wiring because the injector drivers need to be re assigned to different injectors. (which, yes, can be done in software but we ran out of room between each cycle at high RPMSS and need physical separation, fakck offff). 
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Nov 14, 2019 03:57
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the borg warner efr stuff has pretty quick spool and seems to have really innovated in the aftermarket space. at least from what i can tell from miata folks. 
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Nov 16, 2019 08:51
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Aeka 2.0 posted:I have a small battery, so I thought it would be a good idea to get a capacitor to help smooth out heavy hits to the alternator, BUT I'm only familiar with microfarad units and didn't know how big a real farad was. So I have a cap bigger than my battery, where the gently caress do I put this thing? Be careful with that thing. It will be capable of discharging a couple hundred amps.
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Nov 17, 2019 20:40
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Minnesota Mixup posted:Be careful with that thing. It will be capable of discharging a couple hundred amps. Yeah it does concern me. Pulled the front bumper off because its just easier to work this way.  After pulling the bumper off I heard something hit the ground. This screwdriver was stuck inside for 10 years:  Wiring slightly less of it:  Anodized socket heads don't clear the pulley. poo poo. I'll get back to you later  The fans have arrived:   14" was the smallest in stock for months. So I'm just going to have to make them work:  The pizza box the fans came in work great for a template: 
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Nov 19, 2019 06:42
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 As someone that worked in pizza places way too long... yeah, those are very much pizza boxes. You'd think they'd turn to something besides food service for their boxing needs, but 14" is a common "large pizza", so...
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Nov 19, 2019 21:13
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Haha, no the boxes are much taller and bigger than that. I just found it kind of funny Well I hope someone here knows how the inner workings of a brushless fan works. Because these seem to be a bit defective. But first I am not a fabricator:  And I will use the plasma cutter as I see fit:  Yeah these things grind on fireup, but they free spin just fine by hand, which is just having me scratch my head. I use Spal brushless at work all the time, so I know this is not normal behavior. Have a listen (link has audio): https://imgur.com/hBi4XeU https://i.imgur.com/hBi4XeU.mp4 Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Nov 20, 2019 |
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Nov 20, 2019 05:41
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It almost makes me think it's the way the computer is delivering the power. I've tried it in PWM mode and without. Same results though. I'm letting it run on the bench for an hour at low speed and I'm going to check if it's any better.
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Nov 20, 2019 05:57
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That makes me think it's a current issue. Are you just using a power supply right now to drive it? May be worth messing with the settings on it such trying it in constant current mode. I've used electric motor drivers before that would make the motors make a grinding sound if they were fed the wrong amount of current.
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Nov 20, 2019 07:15
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Try loosening the mounting bolts a little. I've had PC fans do that if they're not mounted just right. Also yeah, make sure the power supply is pushing enough power on the 12V rail (including the case fans in the PC, and anything else running on 12V). But I'm betting it's just slightly tweaked from the mounting, and backing off the screws slightly will "fix" it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Nov 20, 2019 |
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Nov 20, 2019 07:42
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I've tested it on a battery and flat on a table unmounted as well. However I didn't check the condition of the battery. I will try again.
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Nov 20, 2019 09:33
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Okay I was able to get in touch with the Delta PAG guys. This is normal behavior for this motor. The motor starts on two of the three phases and used the third as a sensor. After startup it uses the three phases. It is the first of its kind from what I can tell, they have patents. So a little annoying but neat I suppose.
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Nov 20, 2019 17:35
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That's odd, but I'd bet you wouldn't notice it in a running car.
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Nov 20, 2019 23:49
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Aeka 2.0 posted:they have patents LOL. We invented a thing that improves nothing, but no one else has done it. GREAT SCOTT, patent that poo poo immediately! It probably saves them $0.25 per fan in Hall effect sensors. 
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Nov 21, 2019 15:13
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Lol. Yeah I realize how dumb of a statement that is. Oh well here is their website: https://www.deltapag.com
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Nov 21, 2019 19:17
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Are these that much thinner / that much better flow than traditional E-fans? I'd love to pitch the non-clutched mechanical fan in the Opel.
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Nov 21, 2019 19:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:Are these that much thinner / that much better flow than traditional E-fans? I'd love to pitch the non-clutched mechanical fan in the Opel. They aren't any slimmer. The main difference is the amperage usage. At my work we started to require our customers to use them because of the amperage limit of the Motec solid state power distribution module. Motors with the same CFM would pull 25 amps when we would need to be under 20 amps. The nice thing about them is they soft start and we can control the speed curve against the coolant temperature. I plan to do this with my units, but I also got a pulse width control box if it ends up not working out correctly, or if I need to override. Or to look at it another way they can flow more CFM for the same amperage.
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Nov 22, 2019 05:18
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The boss man gave me this for free when I asked how much it was, so I chucked it up and spun it down to fit:  Its bigger than stock, so I'm curious to how much this will affect it. Stock idle is 750rpms. I run at about 1500 for idle now. So I think I'll be okay. But I know jack poo poo about it. And uhh, I think I'm going to try and mount a bank of these to replace all of the big relays: 
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Nov 22, 2019 21:41
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I would want to make sure it's designed for vibration. Have you considered something like this? https://motogadget.com/shop/en/m-unit-blue.html
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Nov 22, 2019 23:03
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Aeka 2.0 posted:The boss man gave me this for free when I asked how much it was, so I chucked it up and spun it down to fit: Those SSRs are junk, and the ratings printed are :cough: optimistic :cough:
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Nov 23, 2019 01:34
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Powershift posted:I would want to make sure it's designed for vibration. If there exists an I/O configurable solid state device (PDM), for under 500 dollars I'd be all over it. Everything seems very restrictive without going to the minimum of a Racepack or to the desired Motec. And by configurable I mean just running input triggers to power outputs. Seems to not exist. However I am looking at just running a nice conventional block like this: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/460...U8aAsYMEALw_wcB sharkytm posted:Those SSRs are junk, and the ratings printed are :cough: optimistic :cough: I figured these things get hot so I may look at just running them at half their rating. I have seen that TE makes a potted version. But yeah.
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Nov 23, 2019 02:55
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Testing the relay for 30 mins and it was still cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9gTdcgZAEA it would be awesome to use these if you think that the TE versions would hold up since they are potted. Otherwise I'll ditch them. Its a fun idea though. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Nov 23, 2019 |
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Nov 23, 2019 04:34
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Running 2A at 15V, they'll probably last. Lots of cycles or higher loads, probably not. It's not like you're cheeping out on other poo poo. If trust a TE or Eaton much more, especially if they're automotive-rated.
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Nov 23, 2019 13:23
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Here are the TE ones. I'd like to run these for the fans, and then get an automotive Eaton box for everything else. They aren't automotive rated, but the data sheet and the vibration resistance instills confidence in what they have. https://www.mouser.com/new/TE-Connectivity/te-pb-solid-state-relays/ edit: I keep looking at the PDM60. I could possibly use it for the fans and fuel pump. The trigger options aren't great. Ignition, battery, and ground. There is ONE ground trigger for all of the outputs. Maybe ground for fuel pump, and ignition for the fans since they are PWM. Everything else can go on an Eaton. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Nov 23, 2019 |
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Nov 23, 2019 17:36
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