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kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Post gifs and the grabblest rides u know
https://i.imgur.com/d5Qg4CI.mp4

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kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Grinding gravel into asphalt through the most dangerous technology known to man: capitalism.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Levitate posted:

I've propped up a phone and set a timer to take a photo of myself before though

I spent 15min arguing with my friends to go back 100 ft and ride through again to get this shot:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BJOK8wgDRZl/

e: actually now that I think about, I think I made them do 3 takes.

kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Nov 21, 2019

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
This is aspirational, but hot drat if this doesn't want me to aim some knobbies at a dirt road and kick up bits of mulch

https://bikerumor.com/2019/11/27/bikerumor-pic-of-the-day-toulouse-france/

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

e.pilot posted:

Other than “road plus” slicks there’s really not many other options other than the resolute for 650x42 weirdly.

e:
Found one more aggressive as hell tire I can try before throwing in the towel.
https://www.treefortbikes.com/Surly...ykaAgXYEALw_wcB

There Knard is gonna be really harsh/stiff, but would make sense for the toughest roads.

650x42 has too much BB drop except for 700x23, which wouldn't come on frames that were meant for bigger tires and had clearance for an upsized 650 tire.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Maybe it's just really flared bars? Was wondering the same.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/613681444461658112/who-rides-a-cheviot-susan-thomas-name-susan

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Is that the recall rack? What was the fix Surly put out?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
The spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak. I climbed onto the Carbonda build to ride into the office to get some work stuff, some 3 months after I stopped bike commuting and our baby was born.
My sit bones were nooooot used to it. The 44mm Byways were a bit sluggish on asphalt, but the few bits of gravel I got to touch felt really good. The longer wheelbase makes more sense, and things feel nicely damped instead of merely dull on the road.

Near Boston, there's not much long stretches of dirt, but here's a running path along the Charles:

This stretch of the river is used in establishing shots for TV shows that need to set the scene for Boston/Cambridge/Harvard/MIT. Usually with a crew boat out there.
Goslings were out in force:

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Interesting test, though I wouldn't call this a scientific study.
https://www.velonews.com/news/gravel/optimal-tire-pressure-gravel/

On smooth and also bumpy rollers, for a single model of 35mm tire, rolling resistance generally decreased going from 30psi to 70psi.

In a pretty unusual rolldown protocol on some actual gravel road, testing at 15, 30, 50, 70, same riders, same tire, rolling resistance was lowest at 30psi, and high at 15 and 70.

I feel like I've noticed this -- feeling super sluggish on asphalt and then when rolling onto gravel, it feels faster all of a sudden.
Note that one of the test riders thought he was going faster at 70psi on the gravel -- he equated getting bounced around on the harder tire with moving faster.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

bicievino posted:

Imo put 35s or 40s on the Cannondale and have a good loving time.

I see in the catalog the T1000 on the same frame/fork has 35 tires and fenders. So 40s might be ok, but I'd prob max out at 38mm if you don't want to deal with a return.

re: I'd probably live with the adjustable stem, but if the bar tape is thin, it'd be nice to have slightly cushier for gravel, and that'd be a justification for changing when you swap the stem.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
I'm not familiar with how the fencing setup works --
if I move from Home A to Home B, will all activities uploaded when Home A's zone respect that zone forever (and I guess the new B zone as well)? Do you get multiple zones to manage?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

DELETE CASCADE posted:

you're welcome, it literally is. notice that i said "cyclists who hate e-bikes" and not any variation of "cyclists who hate e-bikes being used in places where e-bikes are not allowed"

Isn't that where this discussion has been?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
It’s weird that Rene Herse doesn’t have a knobbed 650 38 tire. Maybe they’ll get to that size next.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Fuckin love that Star Trek/Dr Seuss landscape.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
On gravel? Get a clutched derailleur for sure. If nothing else, for keeping the chain from slapping your chainstay all the time.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Wow, you had a sag wagon for your private group?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Ragbrai's... happening?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
New Maxxis Receptor has a pretty Byway vibe about it:
https://bikepacking.com/news/maxxis-receptor-gravel-tire/

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
I ran the 42 on two bike tours where I saw a tiny fraction of gravel. In hindsight, not nearly enough to justify the increase rolling resistance over, say, a Soma Shikoro.

But it handles well on gravel (better than a slick) and the center strip rolls without any buzz on asphalt.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
I've ridden maybe 3 times with cargo bibs, but I think this is really the way for gravel.
You can wear a normal shirt up top and still have easy access to your phone and other stuff. And still have 3 normal bib pockets for things you don't need to access all the time.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Oldsrocket_27 posted:

I ended up picking up some schwalbe hurricanes for the 26" commuter/gravel rig. Smooth enough center tread, a little knob on the sides for dirt roads.

Losing nearly 500g per tire from my studded winter tires feels great every year. Makes it feel like a brand new bike.

On one build, I went from 26x2.5 Hookworms at 1250g (each) to Extraterrestrials at 'only' 990g.
Even with extra tread pattern, it was like when Harrison Bergeron threw off his handicaps.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Huge comparo and visual shopping for half frame bag options:
https://bikepacking.com/index/half-frame-bags-and-wedges/

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

ElMaligno posted:

Is there any functional difference between a flat bar and a drop bar? I mean other than parts difference and stuff.

If you're packing stuff, you can hang wider handlebar bags off of a flatbar. Without some additional accessories, you probably won't be able to get as low (when facing a 30mph headwind) on normal flat bars on a frame size that fits you, but not a dealbreaker.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Development posted:

don’t play the “it’ll be here next week” game.
I agree but I think you should elaborate that to mean that you shouldn't trust any shop's claimed delivery times for anything they don't have in stock.
They might be totally honest, but can be victims of totally optimistic / bullshit times from their suppliers.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Cannon_Fodder posted:

Anyone got experience doing drop bars on a karate monkey?

I'm trying to figure out how I want to set up the cockpit on mine when the drat things go back to being available 5/19ish.


It's either that or some alt bars. Probably a decent amount of flare but more upright.

Any personal stories of bars you hated or ended up throwing out?

I've done drop bars on MTB frames that were the right size for me with flat bars, and I'd say while you can shorten the stem to get the reach right, it's probably better to do close to a normal stem length and size down or make sure the frame is close to your road frame sizing. I was riding 70-80mm stems and still a bit stretched out, but even shorter and the handling wasn't normal enough.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Dreadite posted:

rode the ~19 miles/2k feet from rattlesnake lake to snoqualmie pass




Did you 'that guy' the ride by using Snoqualmie Pass tires?

[fake edit] oh zoomed in to see Switchback Hill.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Razzled posted:

ok i'll poke around at them i guess, sucks i'd have to undo the bar wraps to get at the cables

Have some bar tape on hand just in case the stuff you have on there doesn't wrap back up well.
Also, make sure your current setup isn't so tight that making the cuts to swap hoses doesn't bind up your steering.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

I canonized this into the fenders section of the commuting thread.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Time posted:

That’s a savage ride. I did part of this like last week when I came through Missoula and it was gorgeous. That whole area between Idaho and Montana is just incredibly good riding.

Great job

Did you stop by the ACA bike touring office for your complementary ice cream sandwich?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
I do it with scotch tape so it's stealthier, and I ut it one tape's width above the insertion, so it doesn't crumble. Less accurate but it somehow seems cleaner to me.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
I hesitate to bring racing into the Spirit thread, but Iceland is putting on an endurance gravel race, with five BIPOC supported slots:
https://cyclingwestfjords.com/apply/
Still have to get your own bike into the country, though a clever applicant should be hitting up Lauf for a discounted rental

Pass it around if you know anyone who'd want to do it.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

mAlfunkti0n posted:

Wish I was in love with the colors.

IMO, jump on a color that you love, even if the spec isn't what you want. Every week I think about the Mash Stigmata.

One came up for sale and I think I missed out.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

Rear triangle accommodates a 700c x 25 with plenty of room to spare in diameter and width, and a buddy offered me a carbon straight gravel fork. Realistically this will be 70% road/30% dirt, towing a kid trailer frequently. Dirt in question is standard gravel FS/BLM/county roads and chill singletrack without much roots or rocks, but some occasionally. Road is mainly commuting or general just getting around town

1.) 700c or 27.5? It seems like a 27.5 with 40ish mm tires offers a decent amount of suspension but still not a ton of rolling resistance on the road around town, or even for a fun road ride. Or would that be close enough to just riding an mtb on the road?
At 30% dirt, I would be going to 40mm tires. 25mm is something I wouldn't ride normal roads on anymore. At least not in this application.

quote:

2.) Handlebars? I currently have cyclocross bars on my commuter, a 1988 Cannondale SR500 with 700c x 28 cyclocross tires. I really like the cross bars. Rarely use the drops, mainly the full width of the top of the bars all the way out to the hoods. Maybe only ever on the drops if it's really windy. Would one of the many new funky bar styles I've been seeing around lately be a good use case for my riding? I would like to do more gravel roads and longer rides, so a variety of hand positions would be nice. Or would mountain bike brake levers and shifters on my cx bar plus a set of stubby bar ends in place of the roadie hoods be a good solution? Is that something that's even done?

e: Looks like the Surly Corner Bar actually accomplishes that setup pretty well.
The Corner Bar could be a good option, but the shape is more like being in the drops full time than on the hoods. They're also quite wide, narrowest being 46cm where the "drop" pieces attach to the bar. They also weigh 1.6 lbs.

In any case, make sure that you're not gonna be too stretched out -- MTB conversions tend to be long if you're not starting one size down on the MTB frame.
You should measure the distance from the saddle to the hoods on your commuter and see where that would put you on the MTB frame, and work backwards to what length stem you'd need.
It might be very very short, which would lead to dartier handling. If you did run Corner Bars, at least the extra width would mitigate that to a degree.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
I think new bike excitement is real and give you real watts.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

What advantages do 27.5 have over 700c?

In this particular application, it gets you clearance. The rear could clear more tire on a 700c rim, but it looks like the front is the limiting factor. If that’s 2.3”, then you’re looking at max 45mm 27.5 on the front, maybe.

It’d be a bit more work to get a mismatched pair of wheels, 27.5 front and 700c rear. So might as well just get a 27.5 wheelset.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
I've had a Toseek seatpost, and it seemed built up decently enough. Never cracked on me or anything.

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

I measured seat post at saddle to center of stem on my commuter and the mtb frame and they’re the same length. That tells me that with my Woodchipper bars, hoods would be an identical reach. Right?

Yeah, as long as the saddle-bar drop is the same on both setups. But if they're measuring the same now, you're almost certainly be able to make up any difference with just a stem change without making the handling weird.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

Hell yeah, this is sounding like it'll work.

I know next to nothing about modern drivetrains, what is the best way to add a cassette and shifter? I'd like to keep my Avid mechanical disk brakes, as they work great. I'd like to keep 1x, as well. Would a rear brifter and front brake be the simplest way?

I have a 36T SRAM chainring, so I'm thinking an 11 speed SRAM 11-36 cassette might make a good match, if geared a little low. 10-36?

11t is the smallest cog possible on normal (Hyperglide) Shimano freehubs. The 27.5 QR wheels you could get are going to have Hyperglide and not the fancier new stuff. You might even consider doing your gravel build on the existing wheels just to prove out the shifting — i didn’t know your intent was going back to gears.

This is a combination I’ve used on two of my bikes:
SRAM 11 spd brifter
SRAM 10spd MTB derailleur
SRAM 11spd MTB cassette

The 10spd RD will come with a clutch, which is nice, but might be limited to 36t max cassette size.
The 11spd mtb cassette will fit onto the older 10spd road freehub size, so you’ll be compatible with any ol wheelset.

E: at the 11spd level, there is road stuff that goes up to 36t, but it requires the longer road 11spd Hyperglide freehub. 11spd MTB parts are more widespread and a bit cheaper.

Other issues:
It can be kinda pricy piecing things together, unless you’re scouring ebay for used deals.
Mechanical brakes are long or short pull, to respectively match MTB and road brakes. If you like your Avids (BB5/7?), you can get an analogous model for road.


If you want something possibly cheaper, you can try:
Shimano 10spd brifter
Shimano 9spd MTB derailleur
Any 10spd MTB cassette

No clutch, but slightly cheaper all around.
I think I have some of the 10spd stuff I can sell you cheap.



Finally, you can get a link to lower the RD to expand your cassette range, so that you could run 40x11-40, for example. These links are anywhere from $20-40. All a matter of how much you want to spend.

kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 22:27 on May 28, 2022

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

I guess my main reason for leaning toward a bigger wheel over my 26 set is mostly for speed and efficiency. I assume (but don't know) a 27.5/650b set with tubeless 40-45 mm tires will be more enjoyable to ride, and likely save a little weight over my current Alex TD24 + Serfas Drifter setup. I just don't need big ol fat 2" tires and the inertia and ability to roll over stuff of a big wheel sure is nice. Maybe part of it is just wanting to try something new and seeing a bunch of buzz about 650b/27.5 and pictures of pretty bikes with slightly chubby road wheels. And it seems like the easiest way to try it out with the frame and other parts I already have in hand.

I dunno maybe I should just try smaller tires, a lighter rigid fork, and adding gears to the bike as is for now and see what that's like. It's just such a pig the way it is now that I'm kind of turned off 26" mountain bikes for good.
Oh, I'm not opposed to going to 27.5. I'm just saying you can start working on the build without switching the wheels right away. Last step would just be to swap the wheels over, though you could stop early if you somehow decide the fit or other part choices don't work.
There are a couple of smooth/light 26" big tire options, though they're pretty specialized and probably gonna be pricier than 650B. Though of course not more expensive than getting the 650B wheels, too.

quote:

Clutches on derailleurs is a new concept to me. What's the advantage?
The much higher tension in the RD cage means the bottom of the chain doesn't bounce nearly around as much in rocky conditions, which not only makes your shifting more reliable but also stops most of the annoying chainslap you hear.

quote:

but I guess now I'll need to plan a road set into my budget.
I think I have a set of road BB7s, as well. Lemme know if you want me to look through my parts bin.

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kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Advent X only has mtb shifters, and they say the cable pull is proprietary. It might very well match some road shifter, but I don't think someone's done the experimentation yet.

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