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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I let a mod know about the new thread so the old one should be closed momentarily and forwarded here. Thanks for making this, great OP.

e: Maybe a link to the overclocking thread here would be good under your overclocking heading - and maybe mention that overclocking GPUs, especially nvidia GPUs, is highly recommended, extremely low/no-risk, and very simple.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Nov 12, 2019

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Agrajag posted:

I'm not really going to be buying new parts within the next few months but looking at 2020 onward will my pc still hold up for gaming? Im thinking games like Cyberpunk 2077, Death Stranding, and I suppose RDR 2 at 1440p 144hz? Currently I only play Destiny 2. The reason I'm asking this is because I recently picked up the 1440p monitor and I'm noticing that I'm not even pushing max refresh rate for the monitor in Destiny 2. I think I'm averaging anywhere from 80-110's.

My system is:

Intel i5 7600k (oc'ed to 4ghz iirc)
16gb ram
EVGA GTX 1070
(I'm already using NVME for the OS and another SSD specifically for games. Might look into Samsung's QVO for mass storage)

Depending on your settings you might need to upgrade the GPU I'd think. I thought the 7600k can be pushed more than that, by default it goes to 4.2ghz on at least some of the cores. Might be worth looking at a proper OC, also use something like HWinfo64 to see if your GPU or CPU are bottlenecking you.

I really wouldn't upgrade your CPU right now from a 7600k, it should be fine at least for a year. 16gb of RAM is plenty for games.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Action-Bastard posted:

Hey gang, plotting a build I'll probably do early next year. A friend who knows a little more about computers than I suggested I do a clean install of windows on my next system, prior my plan was to just pop in my same old SSD and go.

Parts will be cannibalized from old system to new one. Notably the RAM and graphics card and afformentioned SSD with Windows 10. Current processor is a Intel i5 6500, next processor will be intel as well, I haven't decided on that yet. Current and new motherboard will be MSI, I had to RMA my previous motherboard and they were great so I'm sticking with them.

Sorry if I'm leaving out critical info.

I was able to swap motherboards (I went from a b150 pc mate to a h270 pro) with zero issues other than having configure fans in the config menu. So is a clean install of windows necessary or beneficial?

Thanks in advance.

Generally you always want to reinstall windows. You can get a headstart on poo poo by downloading all the installers you're going to want and putting them on another drive or a thumb drive etc.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Kullik posted:

Yo thread, I've been not paying attention to computer bits for years due to being poor and working in IT and not wanting to spend my free time also reading about computer stuff.

Ive currently got an I5 4670 which isn't horrible and is coping ok but i was thinking of upgrading it though cause its the weakest part of my system right now and i have a bit of spare cash and its nice to do these things while you can.

Is it currently feasible for someone in the UK to upgrade this, considering ill need new RAM and a new motherboard for like £300 and get a decent performance boost for video games and general browsing or would i be better off just doing something else with that money, im open to buying second hand stuff also if that helps.

We can't say too much without knowing what GPU you have and what resolution and framerate you intend to play games at. Second hand is always going to be better value but CPUs are relatively cheap compared to GPUs.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Oxyclean posted:

I think I usually see the CPU top out, but I think that might be expected? Don't remember what ram usage looks like but I know it gets up there. I know Steam's UI update bumped its memory footprint and I feel like I'm feeling that a bit.

I think I'm interested in doing an upgrade regardless - adding memory is certainly an option but I'm almost certain my current setup is 2 sticks of 4GB, so I can't just slap in another 8 gig stick, and regardless of how I slice it, it feels like a bit of a dead-end upgrade since I'll probably want to replace the processor and mobo sooner then later.

1,000$ might be a bit high, but keep in mind I'm in Canada and prices look a bit different, For example it looks like a 2700x goes for around 260-270$ I don't entirely mind spending a bit more if it's going to be worth it, since I feel like I might have skimped on my processor last time around.

It sounds like AMD is the way to go these days? I've seen the 2700x come up a bunch in the last page, is that like a sweet spot at the moment?

I think I might have 16gb of DDR3 kicking around, maybe send me a PM, I'm in Canada too, if you're in the same city you can pick it up for free and if you're not I'm happy to mail it to you for the cost of shipping a padded envelope.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

If my quarter TB SSD is six years old I should upgrade it, right? I also have a 1TB one for data.

Depends more on write cycles I think but a 250gb SSD assuming you're just using it for an operating system is kinda fine and probably has lots of life left.

If you're using it in a raid array or something I'd use a tool (samsung magician if it's samsung) to check it's 'life'. HWinfo64 also has a life % indicator but I'm not really sure how it measures it.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Aurora posted:

i dont particularly trust myself to put together another computer so is there like a good trusted website that will put together a computer with parts chosen by you or anything. i don't want to just buy a prebuilt

I know you've probably heard this before but it's really easy, there are many many great youtube guides, and you can't actually damage anything by hooking something up wrong because the power connectors are keyed to only fit where they're supposed to, or if you mess up the CPU cooler it'll just turn off when the temp gets high. I understand not having the time but if you're just worried about messing something up you should just do it! We in this thread love to help during builds too so you can always post a photo like "where does this go" if you get stuck. Think of it as a cool adventure my man.

Depending on where you live I bet you could get a vetted goon to build your PC for a case of beer.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

whydirt posted:

Working on the build drawn up for me 20+ pages ago as my first time doing this. How do I know whether the fan built into the rear of my Phanteks P300 case plugs into the Pump Fan or Sys Fan slot on the motherboard?

Sys or CHA (chassis) fan slot for that one. Pump refers to people who use a water cooling pump. You can use Pump headers if you run out of spots (I think they're just treated for more current and placed closer to the CPU) but it might default to strange behavior until you adjust it in bios.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I don't know why a 1080p monitor would be insufficient for dev work, seems pretty good to me unless it's a 42" monitor.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

PRADA SLUT posted:

For a machine learning setup, would I need anything like more RAM in this?

i5 7600k @ 3.8GHz
EVGA GTX 1070, 8G
ASUS Strix Z270E
Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB DDR4 3000MHz

I thought the ML people wanted the Turing processors or whatever from the RTX cards? Or is that just AI stuff and unrelated?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Songbearer posted:

Cool, grabbed a 4tb and a 1tb. Swing low, sweet chariot, you did well my sweet ol' HDs :3:

For that money you could have had an SSD...

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

FastestGunAlive posted:

Had this build from you all a few months ago, only thing I have left to buy is the video card. I'm looking for a wireless card recommendation since I forgot to ask in my initial post; prefer to go internal rather than usb. Does it matter much or is it just pick whatever seems decent from Amazon?

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jprm8M

This mobo has wireless and is 30-40 bucks more than the one you had already spec'd. It's probably worth IMO rather than using some wireless adapter.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

nnnotime posted:

For Intel CPU's, what's the story with the i9-9900KS, verses the i9-9900K? I was reading the KS was built as a limited run, and saw that Microcenter near me did not have the KS in stock. But NewEgg has a KS for $799, while the regular K is $489.

Does the performance increase in the KS justify the extra $310? I assume not, as that seems like a crazy premium.

I see there is also a 9900 X series, but that appears marketed to builders who need up to 128GB RAM.

Here's a NewEgg i9-9900 product search for price references.

https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=intel+i9+9900

The KS is just a higher binned 9900K. Simply put, this means when they're making the chips they pop them into a setup that tests if they can overclock well and then if they do they're sold as KS. The ones that don't get sold as K. This sucks because it means your chances of getting a 9900k that overclocks well is close to zero because they're being differentiated at the factory. I picked up my 9900K before they started this poo poo thankfully and can do 5GHz all core with relatively low voltage.

I don't know what to recommend. It is absolutely not worth it to pay that much more for a KS. The base level 9900K with no overclock is still plenty.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Intel doesn't typically drop prices on older chips by very much.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

whydirt posted:

How worth it is doing all my component registrations?

Extremely worth it. What's the downside?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I think its probably better to buy a used card locally in that case but it sounds like a very unique situation.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Meaty Ore posted:

Idiot question:

Last time I built a computer, modular PSUs weren't a thing; just a box with a small fan blowing out the back of the unit. Now I've got a Corsair RM 750 and the larger fan is going to be either blowing into the case or out a vent on the bottom (I'm assuming it still blows out, right?). Which way is preferable? The case itself only has two 140mm fans, one in and one out, if that makes any difference.

The holes in the grate on the back of the PSU (where the power cord plugs into) is where it passively exhausts. The other fan on the big side is the intake fan. You generally want it facing down to pull cool air in, especially if you have a case with a filtered air inlet there. It doesn't need much room at all to pull air in - you'll probably notice that there is only a cm between where it mounts and the bottom of the case - that's honestly fine.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Meaty Ore posted:

Ah, thank you for the clarification. Down it is, then.

When in doubt orientate components such that the marketeering wankery is right side up!

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

So I've used my wired xbox 360 controller (with my PC) for a very very long time and it's pretty worn out and doing that thing where the sticks are falling apart into dust, itself a metaphor for all the destroyed nerds that have fallen to my goony thumbs.

I read up a bit and saw that wireless 360 controllers use a proprietary RF/WF system where you need a dongle so that seems dumb. The wireless xbox 1 controllers seem like they're bluetooth - can I just pair it to my BT motherboard and be good to go? How's the lag situation there vs a wired controller? Are there very good 3rd party options?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

TheManWithNoName posted:

Just get a job with Linus Tech Tips like every other Canadian.

We can't stand him for what it's worth. I live in the area that their videos are shot in. But on the flip side GN Steve comes biking up here at Whistler so he brings balance.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

LODGE NORTH posted:

Looking at 4K monitors - specifically IPS, at least 144hz.

Is this a good option/deal? Is there a decent competitor that's priced lower? https://www.amazon.com/LG-27UD68-W-...ctronics&sr=1-8

Isn't that 60hz?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Yeah if you want >120hz, 4k, adaptive sync, IPS, you're looking at a lot of money right now. I'm waiting for it to get cheaper as well.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

LODGE NORTH posted:

Even then, it's still a bit too rich for my blood for a monitor. I just ignorantly thought it'd be about $400, $550 max.

I guess my only real option is to wait or spend a bit now on a 4K IPS and get a 144hz one whenever there's a sale or something. My primary usage on this PC isn't gaming, so part of me wonders how much use I can even get out of a 144hz monitor.

The tech is evolving so fast that they don't really go on sale so much as they get outplayed by a new one for the same price with adaptive sync or HDR or whatever. It's a really bad time to buy these! In your position I'd absolutely get a 4k IPS 60hz monitor and see how you like it. The other thing is you basically wouldn't be able to drive games at 4k to 144hz anyways unless you've spent another 3k on your pc.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

LODGE NORTH posted:

Yeah, it's seemingly like it. :/ I'd be going from 1080 144hz TN to 4K 60hz IPS so it's hard to try and line up exactly what I want.

Given the bounds above, would this be my best bet? https://smile.amazon.com/LG-27UK850-W-Monitor-Connectivity-FreeSync/dp/B078GVTD9N

Is there something that offers the same but at a cheaper cost? I guess it's worth noting I only opted for FreeSync since I'll be running asn AMD card.

You're better off asking in the monitor thread but that looks fine to me? I would actually avoid HDR personally because I work on photos a lot and I don't want to see them differently to how they show up on other people's devices.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Subjunctive posted:

Doesn’t it only do things differently if the content shows up in an HDR format? I assume people’s devices vary in brightness anyway...

I haven't read up on it but I'd assume that an HDR monitor is going to display more dynamic range in a photo than you'd normally see so you might edit your highlights and shadows differently than you would without HDR? I don't know.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Subjunctive posted:

HDR display can’t invent dynamic range in your photo, though, and even if you had HDR photo data then it’s just brightness control and everyone’s devices are different there anyway. (To say nothing of the fact that most devices aren’t colour calibrated against sRGB in the first place—you’re going to lose on gamut harder than on brightness.)

I think I get what you're saying, my thought was that when you're shooting RAW especially with modern sensors you have so much data available, particularly in the blacks/deep shadows where you can bring out detail if you feel like it. I agree with the other poster that of course you could just turn the HDR off and that it might not even do anything for a photo if the software isn't telling the monitor to dim that area or w/e.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Yeah I didn't get the context but this person sounds frustratingly irrational. Why not just give up on trying to help someone who can't entertain logical thought?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Thom P. Tiers posted:

Some people just love spending money and showing off what specs they have. If they have it, fine I guess.

I'm someone who fits the early part of this definition but I'd never dream of making the argument that I need to do so because *the new consoles*. To each their own I suppose. If the next gen GPUs support 4k 144hz I'm going to be stupid all over again.

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Breadnought posted:

I built my PC a few months back with the help of the thread, and I've got an issue maybe you all can help with. It seems like my motherboard might not be detecting my M2 SSD... sometimes? The system posts, but maybe a third to half the time Windows just won't load. It usually fixes itself with a power cycle, but I've gotten sick of turning on my computer and sitting down on the couch only to realize Windows didn't load up. Motherboard is a MSI MPG B550 GAMING CARBON WIFI, SSD is a Samsung 980 PRO.

If you only have 2 drives and this is intermittent it probably isn't the problem, but some chipsets only have so much throughput and if you use an m.2 drive it effectively locks out some SATA slots. You can check for this info in your manual or just swap your SATA cable to a different port on the mobo for your SSD and see if that helps.

This honestly sounds like something in the bios is turned on like whatever MSI might call their version of fast boot settings. Look for stuff that talks about fast boot and turn it off to see if that changes anything. Might be under RAM or Memory tabs in the BIOS.

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