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It's amazing how much of a temp difference there is on either side of the insulation init.
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May 1, 2020 19:26
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Did some work on the truck today to attempt to make the panels over the wheel arch and battery box a bit more secure and seal up some of the holes (which lead into the rear wheel arch). First removed the top panel which was half riveted on. It was originally clamped down by some ambulance bits I have removed and this left it loose and rattly.  to expose this void over the wheel arch. The dark green section is the inside of the tool storage locker.  They left a 10mm void there and then fitted 25mm of insulation above it under a stupid raised cover. Would have been tidier to make the void 15mm higher and fit the insulation inside it but there must have been some reason for this crap design.... While i was stripping it out I touched a section of the floor down here and felt a bit moist  It appears I still have a small leak in the roof right in the rear corner.  The water runs down the rear door post avoiding the wall panel so it isn't as obvious as the other leaks.In homage to CSB's camper this leak has clearly been happening for a long time as the wooden floor right in the bottom corner is soft and hosed  The outer roof has been sealed and taped over all joints except for under the fibre glass shaped pieces in the corners so in a leak induced rage I climbed on the roof and smashed off the fibreglass piece and found it covers the edge of a panel that extends the roof over the rear doors. The corner of this panel under it was loose so I levered it up, cleaned it up and put a shitload of sikaflex under it and then re-riveted it. I'll tape over the top of it tomorrow. I didn't take any photos because I was angry and on a wobbly step ladder! In non water-leak related works I have been looking into refillable gas bottles to run my cooker and have found these bad boys which have a valve on top so you can just refill directly from a garage forecourt LPG pump (that bayonet fitting is the same one that my engine LPG tank filler has)   I don't know why it has taken until now for someone to invent These!
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May 3, 2020 22:50
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There's a bunch of companies making those. I'm waffling between that or using campingaz 907s in my van. Probably gonna suck up the startup cost and go lpg.
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May 3, 2020 23:00
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Blacknose posted:There's a bunch of companies making those. I'm waffling between that or using campingaz 907s in my van. Probably gonna suck up the startup cost and go lpg. All the rest of them (ive seen the gaslow and gas-it setups) seem to be modelled on a vehicle LPG system and you have to plumb the bottle to a remote filler and then plumb it into a remote regulator. This one just replicates a normal gas bottle setup except that the bottle has a standard LPG filler on it. This is a lot simpler and easier and will work anywhere (I already have the euro filler adaptors as it is the same as my engine tank) The problem with campinggaz ones is the price and finding somewhere to swap them in this country and if you use the cheaper calor ones they are great here but useless in europe. If you want some 907's I seem to have collected 4 of the bastards!
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May 3, 2020 23:13
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I've seen gaslow and gasit with direct fill adapters, but they do still need a 2 stage regulator. The cost of the 907s seem really prohibitive long term, 30 quid or more a refill is not great.
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May 3, 2020 23:24
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Those refillable ones seen expensive initially (~£180) but yes when you consider a 907 is 2.7 kg of gas for ~£22-30 it looks a lot more sensible long term. That's why my 907 got turned into a tiny fire pit.
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May 3, 2020 23:31
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Got my roof panels in. Still need to refit the trim around the roof hatch (and paint the trim pieces, insulate the roof hatch, fix its handles and rebuild it...)  The joint is not quite as good as I wanted it to be. There was supposed to be a plastic joint section in there but I couldn't make it fit because it is too hard to get it on there with the carpet in place and working upside down.  Also got the driver side wheel arch tidied up and solidly fixed together and painted. there is also a rotten spot of floor in the back corner on this side   Got the passenger side painted. There are two removable sections over the side lockers where my batteries and toolbox are which are now held down using M5 allen screws going into rivnuts. Having access from the top makes it easier to get at the wiring for any work and clean them out properly when i need to.  This is the possible location of yesterdays leak post cleanup (also showing a roof rack bracket which i still need to drill!)  The other side still has its fibre glass cover in place which i also need to remove and seal underneath.  Next panel is now carpeted ready to go in.  The other one is varnished ready to go but I have been a bit generous with my spray adhesive and don't have enough left to do it until new stock arrives!
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May 4, 2020 19:28
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What about drawing your LPG directly out of the vehicles cylinder instead of a secondary cylinder?
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May 5, 2020 10:58
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Ferremit posted:What about drawing your LPG directly out of the vehicles cylinder instead of a secondary cylinder? I'd love to do this as it would be loads easier! - but I don't think I can get the parts to do it My vehicle LPG tank is a single hole tank that has a combined level/pickup valve assembly on it. The pickup is a liquid pickup with a pipe that goes to the bottom of the LPG tank. For cooking/heating i need a vapour pickup from the top of the tank and I don't think anybody makes a single hole multivalve that also has one of these I could also T off the main LPG feed pipe from the tank to the engine (there are already LPG solenoids in the system which i could use to stop LPG flowing into the engine where i wouldn't want it) which would give me a high pressure LPG supply - but I would then need a suitable reducer/regulator to get it down to what I need for cooking/heating and I cant find one of those. I'd love to be proven wrong here (my understanding of the LPG liquid/gas/pressure situation is a little bit vague). I suspect that putting a T in the main LPG feed is probably also against the vehicle LPG install regs and wouldn't get certified (my gas install has an inspection certificate which I needed for insurance). I think the official way of doing it is to have a separate LPG tank for vapour with its own dedicated vapour valve/takeoff. I think I could legally combine the filler plumbing - but my experience of dual tank vehicle LPG conversions has shown me that it works better with 2 fillers! Tomarse fucked around with this message at 11:52 on May 5, 2020 |
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May 5, 2020 11:42
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You could do with 2 tanks as you describe but a crossfeed so the liquid level in both equalises, but I know far less about vehicle LPG than you do so 
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May 5, 2020 13:48
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cakesmith handyman posted:You could do with 2 tanks as you describe but a crossfeed so the liquid level in both equalises, but I know far less about vehicle LPG than you do so LPG is more complicated than petrol - mainly because its a big metal tank with lots of pressure in it and you only (with a single hole tank like mine anyway) have a filler connection (with a one way and pressure limiting valve on it) and a liquid pickup outlet. I think 2 tanks would equalise if you T-d the outlet pipes to the engine together and opened the right solenoids but if one had a vapour outlet I don't know what would happen and connecting the systems together is a bit weird.... LPG also occupies a weird legal place where you have to have it certified for insurance so i'm hesitant to do anything that isn't an off the shelf option. I suspect vapour take off valves for vehicle tanks don't exist solely because you are then dealing with 2 different entities for certification and approval of stuff (one for engine LPG and one for gas bottles and cookers) and they don't want to talk to each other. Got one side panel installed tonight:  Unfortunately I hosed up my measurements slightly and made the panel about 5mm too short so there is a small gap at the top (not really visible in the photo but visible to me). My plywood sheet is also poo poo and has warped above the window cutout. Fortunately I have a length of angle extrusion trim that was originally fitted in the top corner between roof and wall that I can paint and refit and it will keep my roof nice and straight too - though unfortunately it is screwed in with self tappers and will therefore violate my current complete lack of thermal bridging between the inside and outside unless I can buy some nylon self tappers
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May 5, 2020 21:16
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Refitted the front cab roof trim today and sorted out and painted lots of trim pieces. When i stripped all the window surround trims off I just chucked them all in a pile and didn't label them and it appears that they are all hand drilled so I had to spend ages working out where they fitted. I also fitted my awning onto the roof rack where it now looks tiny! That is a 2 metre awning (I used to have it at the back over the rear door)  I have been thinking about painting the truck over the past week or so and have come full circle in my paint opinions recently and am considering just rattlecanning it with etch primer and then doing a top coat it in NATO green (satin finish because it lasts better than matt) with a hand roller. It should only take 4 or 5 500ml cans of etch primer (based on their recommended coverage) which are £7 each and then a 5L tin of NATO green is £40 plus £20 for thinners. I have the gear to spray properly but it is hard to do it outside as it is weather dependant (and i'm in the UK) and I both have nearby neighbours and a big expanse of dusty gravel and there are bugs and trees jizzing everywhere at the moment. Getting hold of face mask filters for spraying is also tricky. If I roller paint it with synthetic NATO green outdoors I should be able to get away without any PPE or can just use the expired and opened A2P3 filters I already have (I wouldn't like to use them for proper spraying in an enclosed garage but would be happy outdoors!)
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May 6, 2020 23:00
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Today I have started making some furniture. I bought some 15mm birch ply for this and gently caress it is hard! First I set up my  Started with some panels that go in the sides of the front cab  Had to router out 2mm along the bottom edge to make it sit properly against the metalwork  I then needed to make a door cut-out, and I am planning on cutting it with my router so I can use the cut-out as the door so made myself a template out of some spare normal ply.  Used this as a jig to cut out the door with a 6mm/6.35mm router bit.  Started with a 6mm bit but the wood is too hard for my weedy 1/4 router to deal with and the 6mm bit tried to explode when i hit a knot in a middle layer (The chunk of blade that came off started a fire in some sawdust which was worrying). Had to move to a 1/4" (6.35mm bit) which has survived both doors but took a lot of effort. My router doesn't like birch ply. The motor sparks a lot and it doesn't sound very happy. I need to upgrade to a better 1/2 router next.
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May 8, 2020 21:01
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I've done a lot since my last update but didn't post anything because it appears to be impossible to photograph my newly built furniture with my old iphone potato cam as it cant deal with the light levels and unnatural amount of sun in the UK at the moment. This is the best picture that I have managed so far. Cubby holes at either side at the front of the truck (which will have doors once i buy the hinges), and a front panel above the screen to house my high quality Chinese android head unit and my rear view camera screen. I have also fitted a curtain rail. I used knock on plastic trim all around it which goes into a 2mm wide channel that I routered out and drat that stuff is hard to fit into the internal holes in panels.  I have also fitted the panel on the passenger side along with the original window blinds over my new windows.  Then I made some longer poles for my awning so that I can actually get it up properly (#shesaid). It was made for a normal height vehicle with poles that would do 1-1.5m. They will now do 2-2.25m  And yesterday I cleaned up and painted the insides of the rear doors. Still got to refit the panel on the inside of the spare wheel mountings. Am gonna adjust the door latch length slightly before I refit it in an attempt to make the doors easier to close   and finally today I did some etch priming!  I had bought 6 x 500ml cans of etch primer as they claimed to do 4.5m^2 of coverage per can. In the end I only got about 2.5 - 3 m^2 per can so need to order a couple more to finish off. If I can get up early enough tomorrow (It is currently unnaturally hot in the UK and will be too hot for roller painting by about 11am) I am gonna attempt to put some top coat on some of the truck. I've gone for NATO green (satin finish) which is gonna get rollered on. I'd have liked to go for something more exciting and to have sprayed it on properly but: NATO green paint is cheap, It is Synthetic paint so I don't need any PPE, and I can roller it (spraying outside is hard because of dust, bugs and nearby neighbours).
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Jun 1, 2020 23:58
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The heat is a killer for painting at the moment. I've done a few bits of painting internally and some hammerite on a few spots and getting a good coat on before it starts going tacky is near impossible for 5 or 6 hours of the day.
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Jun 2, 2020 00:49
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Blacknose posted:The heat is a killer for painting at the moment. I've done a few bits of painting internally and some hammerite on a few spots and getting a good coat on before it starts going tacky is near impossible for 5 or 6 hours of the day. Yeah, I think chances of me getting an early enough start tomorrow to do any of the top coat are slim. Supposed to be 16C by 9am. I was told 12-15C is best to get any decent surface finish with a roller I was hoping I could leave all the masking on but I think I’m just going to have to strip all my current masking off tomorrow and then re mask it for some top coat on Thursday when it’s cooler.
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Jun 2, 2020 01:10
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Weather has cooled off a bit and it isn't raining so I've done some painting today! hoping to finish it tomorrow! (or atleast get both sides done) Have done 2 coats on all the tricky front section and around the doors:  I'm really happy with how the finish has ended up  This is un-thinned synthetic paint and was done with a foam roller and a paintbrush for any edges. Its much more enjoyable than spray painting and I have enjoyed listening to a book whilst working - Though I've got through 4 foam rollers so far as after about 10 mins the paint dissolves the glue and the foam comes off the plastic core
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Jun 8, 2020 19:55
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Wow that's looking good. Are you using rustoleum?
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Jun 8, 2020 20:19
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Blacknose posted:Wow that's looking good. Are you using rustoleum? No, Its NATO Green satin finish from a military vehicle place - https://marcusglenn.com/military-vehicle-paint I'm not sure what is in it but it is a 'synthetic' paint and it doesn't require a mask for hand painting (one of the reasons I am using it). I'm impressed and think my other old saab might end up getting roller painted with the same stuff!
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Jun 8, 2020 20:46
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Oh nice, looks like its working out well. I want to repaint my van at some pint but I absolutely can't be arsed with all the prep so will probably pay some travelling van folk I found to do it for me.
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Jun 8, 2020 21:01
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Apart from the front doors it now has paint all over it!  Its got a couple of small runs, quite a few bugs (the greenfly were loving it when the sun came out) and a couple of loads of plant jizz on one side but i'm happy with it! I've got a bit left to do on the other side of the truck but the weather forecast holds rumours of rain from early tomorrow AM so i wanted to wrap it up today and I ran out of time and energy after 12 hours working on it so they get to wait. Hoping its dried enough to survive some weather. It is touch dry so I have high hopes. I had to run out for a restock on foam rollers and paint trays this morning. I've destroyed 17 foam roller heads and 5 roller trays so far. I have no idea why everyone makes paint rollers using glue that doesn't work with all paints..
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Jun 9, 2020 21:53
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That finish looks really good. Wonder if something like that exists on this side of the pond.
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Jun 9, 2020 22:04
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That looks really good!
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Jun 9, 2020 22:14
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 Nice work!
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Jun 10, 2020 02:40
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Tomarse posted:Apart from the front doors it now has paint all over it! From when I saw it in person that's incredible and looks like a new truck, great work. Don't sweat the bugs, they'll rub out/off when dry. quote:I have no idea why everyone makes paint rollers using glue that doesn't work with all paints.. Money. Sadly it's always money.
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Jun 10, 2020 09:27
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Im laughing my arse off at the idea of 16 deg being too hot to paint... Over here in Aus our paint mostly has warnings about not using it below 10 degrees and not to paint if the surface or air temp is hotter than 35 degrees.
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Jun 10, 2020 14:14
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Stripped my drivers door down yesterday, insulated it and made a door card out of chequerplate. Might regret the chequerplate if i skin my knuckles on it lots but I had it spare and it is more solid than ply. Then today I painted it and refitted it:  Looking better with a green door:  Have also refitted lights, wipers and a selection of fittings and labels and random bits out of my big box, and painted a lot of fiddly bits, and refitted a lot of little fiddly bits inside. Passenger door to do next... and I need to order all new captive nut plates for all the door latches on both sides as I stripped 3/4 of them when refitting Ferremit posted:Im laughing my arse off at the idea of 16 deg being too hot to paint... Over here in Aus our paint mostly has warnings about not using it below 10 degrees and not to paint if the surface or air temp is hotter than 35 degrees. I would guess that in hotter temps you could thin it some (I'm using it neat!) but would then have to also contend with more runs!
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Jun 14, 2020 21:00
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The plate is the perfect look for the doors
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Jun 14, 2020 21:42
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taqueso posted:The plate is the perfect look for the doors Cheers! Time will tell if it is the perfect “feel” too! I guess I can always put a small soft or flat panel over the top of the plate behind the handles if I end up skinning my knuckles on it. A bonus is that the drivers door frame is rusty as gently caress at the bottom and this panel has made the door feel solid again (and I haven’t even screwed it on properly yet as I ran out of screws!)
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Jun 14, 2020 21:54
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This truck looks so bad rear end
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Jun 14, 2020 22:12
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Looking really good.
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Jun 14, 2020 23:43
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Passenger door all painted and refitted with interior trim. I separated the base from the door top too so I could fit a missing bit of trim that goes inbetween them as its absence meant it was leaking water in behind the door skin. I also replaced the window runners on the door top as the old ones were more like window boxes.  I also replaced all the captive nut fixing for the door latches as they all stripped when I remove the latches. The latches no longer have any play in which makes the doors shut better! Decided to do the shock absorber bushes today (which I bought 6 months ago).  They are absolutely hosed Replacing these should make it a bit less clonky and rattly to drive  . Getting the shocks back in place with the new bushes is a horrible job and it took me about an hour and a half to get one done thisafternoon. Had to use a ratchet strap to pull it in off the opposite spring/chassis and then lots of clamps none of which will quite get a decent purchase.
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Jun 17, 2020 19:14
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Tomarse posted:Passenger door all painted and refitted with interior trim. Mine were filled with moss; I was quite sad to lose my little garden when I replaced them. I used the plastic channels from the Series II club shop instead of the metal ones, seemed slightly less likely to rust.
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Jun 17, 2020 21:57
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meltie posted:Mine were filled with moss; I was quite sad to lose my little garden when I replaced them. That one was so full that it no longer moved! That plastic channel looks like good stuff and I want some! I rang them about getting some of it but they only sell it pre-cut for series vehicles to make shipping easier and I need different lengths for the 101. They will sell it in full lengths but only if you collect from the guy who does their shop or get it from him at a show. They would cut it for the 101 for me if I gave them the measurements as they didn't already have them. I do actually now have the required measurements carefully stored in a note on my phone and was going to order some but had to put in a 101 part specific order yesterday and they had the standard stuff for £11 so I thought i'd just do that because i had the door apart and would like to open the window while its warm out. i'll upgrade it to the better stuff later!
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Jun 17, 2020 22:19
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Tomarse posted:That one was so full that it no longer moved! Ah well. For a lame bit of plastic extrusion it does work very well — but it's not worth losing sleep over! I had the same trouble as you with the mid-door seal strip thing too; I had some rubber strapping left over from a project that fit just right. Think it originally came from Pentonville rubber (worth a mooch if you're in the capital)
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Jun 18, 2020 00:14
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Really long day today knocking off annoying jobs. Fitted covers over the cab roof air intake (which is no longer in use as an air intake), sealed it up good and re-routed the Solar panel cable that runs through it as when parked facing downhill it was letting water run into the cab from where it then dripped into my cabin interior light (which is now dead due to water ingress ). Need to paint them tommorrow. Installed an FM aerial. passenger side rear shock re-bushed Fitted a new reversing camera as the old one had water in it. Ran a new video wire for the reversing camera as the wireless sender i was using stopped working and was unreliable anyway. Removed a load of legacy metalwork and brackets from underneath the rear floor. Hoping I now have room for a water tank under there. Found a rust hole in the bottom of the chassis which needs welding up  Found that my exhaust is leaking slightly from one joint and from the seam on the backbox Refitted the Front seatbelts (were removed for painting) Fitted captive nut plates for the passenger seat Reinstalled the passenger seat Replaced the windows squirters and filled the new reservoir and got the washers working (I replaced the old reservoir and pump with a new generic one) Fitted an additional engine cover front seal in the hopes that it will stop the cold/hot draft that goes right up your leg when driving. Then started on the front drivers side shock bushes. Unfortunately the bottom split pin was rusted in place and has snapped off so now needs drilling out so i gave up for the day. Tomorrow I would really like to go for a drive in it since I am now allowed to leave the house and visit places so I want to get the drivers front and rear shock bushes sorted. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jun 20, 2020 |
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Jun 20, 2020 20:37
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That makes two of us who discovered lovely irritating mechanical issues today. It's the world's saddest hi5.
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Jun 20, 2020 21:14
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If anybody with more electrical skills than me is still reading at this point: I am getting a voltage drop at my rear view cam which causes it to sometimes drop below 12v and cut out briefly. This happens briefly whenever the rear lights do anything (so tap the brakes/indicate/turn side lights on) My years of lovely Landrover and lucas experience tell me this is a bad ground. However - I rewired this truck and was really careful with grounds. There is one new front-back cabling run done in 8 core trailer cable. One of these wires (the fattest one in the bundle) is a ground, there is then a constant 12v feed for the camera, and switched feeds for all the lights. All the rear lights and the camera share this ground cable and are not grounded to the body as they are new plastic light fittings (except for the number plate light which only has one wire to it) The 8 core front-rear cable comes back to the main fusebox where the ground goes to an M8 post which is bolted to the body there and this post is also linked back to the battery negative terminal with a cable. Is this voltage drop normal due to it being a 4m long ground cable? should I add another ground point at the back or does this indicate a different wiring issue of some sort?
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Jun 21, 2020 09:48
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Tomarse posted:I am getting a voltage drop at my rear view cam which causes it to sometimes drop below 12v and cut out briefly. This happens briefly whenever the rear lights do anything (so tap the brakes/indicate/turn side lights on) Tomarse posted:My years of lovely Landrover and lucas experience tell me this is a bad ground. Tomarse posted:(except for the number plate light which only has one wire to it) meltie fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Jun 21, 2020 |
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Jun 21, 2020 13:01
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meltie posted:Aha! This one's easy, it's a bad ground. Yeah. I am incredibly happy to be getting bad ground symptoms when I know for a fact that it has a good ground If I disconnect the run to the rear lights and meter it at the fusebox end of the cable there is no voltage drop on the camera terminal when i do anything, so its definitely something in the run or back there. The number plate light is connected to the rear side/tail lights Camera feed is ignition live (i'm using it as a rear view camera not a reversing camera).
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Jun 21, 2020 13:28
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