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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
If you ground your leisure accessories to the chassis and only power them from the leisure battery you can run the shunt in-line to the chassis on the (-) terminal.

I'm using a similar gauge for my PG&E backup system. It'll only show current one way. ie if you charge it, it'll show 0 current being put into the battery.

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Tomarse posted:

So If i put the shunt in-line between the leisure fuse box and leisure battery -ve it should show me the draw from leisure stuff grounded 'properly' back to the fusebox,

My interpretation of being grounded back to the leisure box is that this is fused grounds correct? the following diagrams work for this, as well as if it's a grounding post that just happens to be located at the fusepanel.

Simplifying your description into Leisure fusebox >>(to) battery. Battery >> chassis.
your quote above:
Description here: Leisure fusebox >> [shunt] >> battery >> chassis
This config will show you 95% of the load being placed on the battery. Why? the shunt cannot monitor the second return path on 5% of the accessories through the chassis ground. It's electrically on a different circuit.

Tomarse posted:

but if I put it inline between the battery -ve and chassis ground point it will show everything? Do i have anything to lose by going for the latter choice and getting everything?

Description Leisure fusebox >> battery >> [shunt] >> chassis
This configuration will show you 5% of the load being placed on the battery. why? in this configuration the shunt cannot monitor the path through the leisure fusebox which is 95% of the load.


to get 100% of the load reconfigure as follows:
Leisure fusebox >> chassis , battery >> [shunt] >> chassis.
This involves a "T". Battery >> [shunt] >> chassis. "T" the Leisure fusebox into the chassis side of the shunt.
battery >> [shunt] >> leisure fusebox >> chassis. ground the chassis to the fusepanel if it's possible.

The shunt is bi-directional. the gauge isn't. A small electronics project could make it bi-directional, or with the least amount of effort wire a second gauge in with the sense leads in reverse. one will show discharge, the other recharge. Have your charge controller power the recharge gauge only when it's charging. Do test your gauge in case it is different than the ones i've used.

E: if this is confusing as gently caress and something visual would work better than a wall of words, say so and I'll draw up some diagrams.

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Feb 23, 2020

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Tomarse posted:

This is how it is now. Ancillaries shown here are approximate! - note that a couple are grounded direct to the chassis whereas most come back to a single ground post in the fusebox:



assume this is what you mean for the shunt location?
and I could put 2 gauges across it with the cables swapped to get charge/discharge?




This diagram as a visio file is here if you have visio and want to drag bits around - https://www.dropbox.com/s/16dgloobuimlu4i/leisure.vsdx?dl=0

Yup that's right. Only addition would be to put the solar panels ground on the shunt with everything else so you can monitor charge current.



as for the gauge, test to see if the one you currently have will do charge current. mine won't. yours, may. if not, should be able to put a second one reversed into the shunt like you're saying. Label em accordingly to be nice to future you.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Looks like your lego project ran outta the same color bricks there towards the end.


I loving love it.

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