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Not sure how tight the budget is, but searching "24v scooter speed controller" on eBay brings up suitable options for about £10. I've used those before, they work juse fine. Congrats on your first drive!
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Apr 21, 2020 00:43
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Proper test drive: Lots to do still and the steering column needs to be a lot longer. Regarding the speed controller I'm currently running this on a 12v car battery, it's...fine. slow. Safe. It's a lot peppier on 18v and I'd love to put 24v or 36v up it (motor's designed for 24v) and see what breaks first. But the scooter speed controllers need a healthy battery voltage to run so I couldn't run a 24v controller on 12v or 18v I've seen fan pwm speed controllers that seem voltage agnostic between 12-60v and include reverse, if I found one of those with adequate current rating (5a steady, 15a peak) any reason that wouldn't work?
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Apr 21, 2020 09:14
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This is super cool, nice work!
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Apr 21, 2020 12:01
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My daughter was tooling around until the battery went flat so I plugged in the 18v battery, told her it would be a bit faster. She looked me dead in the eye as she dropped the hammer and blew the drive bushes apart in an instant. Love that kid.  Note the key isn't a single piece anymore... cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Apr 21, 2020 |
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Apr 21, 2020 18:48
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I wanna see a proper 0-60* video or an attempted burnout. I've never managed to 3D print anything stong enough to deal with anything good. * seconds or feet will do
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Apr 21, 2020 21:32
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cakesmith handyman posted:I've seen fan pwm speed controllers that seem voltage agnostic between 12-60v and include reverse, if I found one of those with adequate current rating (5a steady, 15a peak) any reason that wouldn't work? I imagine it would work fine. Just make sure that the throttle input is something sensible like a potentiometer, not needing PWM in or something. Thsoe controllers also can't do reverse, but it looks like you have that figured out with a switch.
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Apr 21, 2020 23:59
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Projects cannot survive on scrap alone. I've ordered a pwm fan controller with both a fwd/reverse switch and a 0-100% display, useful for getting the throttle set up. Input looks like a 100k pot with 300° throw? so I need to design and print a throttle mechanism that turns ~45° input into 300° output. I also ordered hinges for the bench brake I've wanted to build for ages so I'll progress the hood when that's built, and a  200A battery isolater that's work as an ignition key/switch. Started wiring properly, mounted the headlights, I'll put them in series so I don't blow them when I forget and put the drill battery in. Extended the steering column about 4", need to print up a better wheel-to-column mount and find the little round button I was going to use as a horn. Mounted the dash on t-nuts so it's easy to remove.  Left to right the dash has a voltmeter, live when the isolater is closed, then it'll be the fwd/rev switch, then isolater to the right of the wheel, side light switch, main lights on a momentary button. I have more buttons but no plans for them yet. The kids had a solid hour of playing today on the new bushing without issue before it noticeably slowed, not bad for a knackered possibly 10 year old battery. Aaaaaaand I've done nothing on the brakes again.
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Apr 22, 2020 17:44
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Impressive build quality there. I love this project.
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Apr 22, 2020 18:43
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  WILDCARD POST Neighbour saw my daughter rolling like a bad mofo and donated this:  No batteries, otherwise in great shape. Suggestions please, for what shape phase 2 will take...
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Apr 23, 2020 17:06
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drat nice score! I'd be tempted to make something for myself out of that ha
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Apr 23, 2020 18:02
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Build a mini Caterham or similar?
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Apr 23, 2020 19:26
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Bimotor the toylander for 4WD/6WD?
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Apr 23, 2020 20:16
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Suspension for offroad comfort
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Apr 23, 2020 21:30
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InitialDave posted:Build a mini Caterham or similar? Tinier Caterham would be the tits
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Apr 23, 2020 22:24
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cakesmith handyman posted:
by "phase 2" I hope you mean "2nd project vehicle". You can then stage races between this new contender against the toylander....
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Apr 23, 2020 23:01
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Bimotor the toylander for 4WD/6WD? As awesome as a G63 AMG would be... Tomarse posted:by "phase 2" I hope you mean "2nd project vehicle". You can then stage races between this new contender against the toylander.... This is happening and... Olympic Mathlete posted:Tinier Caterham would be the tits It would be the tits. Leading suggestion so far Dave.
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Apr 23, 2020 23:07
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Seconding tinier Caterham.
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Apr 23, 2020 23:32
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Just like, as a point of reference - here's the 4x6 power wheels I built for my daughter. It's basically unstoppable in even rough terrain - the rear axle articulates as well.
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Apr 24, 2020 00:29
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Lol that sure would have some traction.
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Apr 24, 2020 01:51
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Can't believe I only just saw this thread. loving brilliant work!
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Apr 24, 2020 10:51
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cakesmith handyman posted:As awesome as a G63 AMG would be... 
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Apr 24, 2020 11:52
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 Started mocking up accessories, I need to find a slimmer bottle for the Jerry can. Tried loads of combinations for the spare wheel and this is the closest to looking right.  It's a stretched pram tyre on a trailer wheel. Still not happy with it.  So let's tear this apart. Chair comes off easy, is surprisingly heavy. The rear drive assembly comes off as a single unit, might be a useful feature.  Strip the cover off and there's loads of useful mounting points, very strong frame too.  Control panel has a charging point, state-of-charge meter, horn, lights, ignition switch. Controls work like this: dial in the middle sets the maximum speed, rock the trigger assembly left or right for fwd or reverse up to the set max speed.  There were paper labels on all the plugs that crumbled to dust immediately.  Trying to take the whole tiller assembly off and I got stuck at this so a little googling and I found the whole technical manual, full MRO guides. Fantastic.  Turns out you loosen the bolt and tap the stub up and out, the bolt pulls this wedge open, neat, I've not seen this mechanism used before.  Then it's finding all the screws and removing the plastics. All screw locations are in the manual too.  So this is our naked donor, a little under 120cm long and 60 wide. About 4cm ground clearance. Rear wheels are 10.5", fronts are 9"  Let's bring in the trusty old 18v power supply and see whether a scooter designed for 24v will be happy enough on 18v?  Well it powered up and beeped a bunch but wouldn't roll the wheels. I'll have another go later because I had to cut and splice cables as the missing batteries have all the connectors required, I may have missed something, or it might not drive without the brake connected. Option 1 is to get 24v to it, either by a new battery (expensive) or an 18->24v boost converter, £15ish. Option 2 would be to remove the controller and buy a pwm controller for it like the one I ordered for the jeep. I'm leaning towards the boost converter as it'll keep all the neat braking/acceleration parameters etc and I just need to mount the controls I've currently got, but I don't know how the voltage/discharge curves look. Learning opportunity. So what's the plan? Unless a better suggestion comes along we're going tiny caterham. I found the following images at pistonheads and I think this is the way.    I also gutted one of the 450mAh chargers I don't use and I've got a proper Ryobi battery socket for the jeep.
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Apr 25, 2020 10:43
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cakesmith handyman posted:
It's the way older bike stems (called quill stems) attach to the fork.
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Apr 25, 2020 10:54
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cakesmith handyman posted:
Tiny Caterham looks awesome! I've got another spare ryobi socket (ive got a spare 110v charger) if you need one. (I'm hoping I can find an allowed and legit reason to come over your way soon). You could use 2 x 12v batteries in series to make 24v a bit cheaper (its how landrover do it) . There are also 24v power tools (I have a clarke impact wrench which is 24v). I don't know how hard it is to get hold of a battery cell rebuild kit for one? My pedal bike handlebars are held on with one of those wedge brackets.
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Apr 25, 2020 14:12
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 Ditched the scrap of tripod bracket and printed a better steering wheel bracket.  Found and added a horn button.  Added the seat from the mobility scooter and wrapped the steering wheel in rubber tape, I think it's expired self-amalgamating electrical tape, hardens off nicely.  Built myself a metal folder/brake and used it to gradually "roll" the hood, needs trimming to length and I'll put the hinges back on, I have a magnetic catch that looks like it'll fit nicely too.  New steering box was delivered. Steering box cakesmith? Don't you mean cheap manky hand drill? No reader, it's a steering box.  Steering column bolts to where they've for some reason put a chuck on this one, take the weird handle-shaped dealy off the side and that's the crank arm. I was never happy with the 45° lock to lock steering so this should be a lot better and less likely to flip.  How thoughtful, it came with a free handbrake handle. I've made no decision on the caterham power, a pair of suitable lead acid batteries is £50ish, would need splitting and charging separately or a 24v charger buying. 24v lithium comes to nearly double that even building it myself. 18-24v boost circuit still sounds doable and means I have more excuses to buy more/bigger drill batteries in the future. I can't make a decision, I'll sleep on it some more. I did look for a suitable bin on the single shopping trip I've made in the last 2 weeks, don't really want to pay postage on something that big. I also discovered the old narrow 5 spoke pram wheels will fit the front axles with different bearings and they'll look better, I'll try to fit my old black sack barrow tyres on the rear rims, don't want to gently caress about with the rear wheels too much as these are solid wheels with real keys and the drive bushes are the most problematic part of the jeep. Apart from the brakes, still not fitted brakes... cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Apr 28, 2020 |
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Apr 28, 2020 20:26
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gently caress. Double post. Anyway, this is what the cheap lovely hinges I had lying around looked like after I rolled the hood: 
cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Apr 28, 2020 |
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Apr 28, 2020 20:27
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Hood hinges were in the wrong place and crap so I enlisted some help. I'm getting him to do as much as I can because he loves it.  Isolater has 10mm lugs, I of course have no 10mm ring crimps, but I do have random scrap hanging around.     Shortly after replaced with crimps for the right cable size. Ignition key passing the full current draw? Shell be fine, the ad says 200A.  Wired the headlights into a momentary pushbutton so they don't get left on to drain the battery.  The handdrill steering box is spoken for, my son liked it for drilling holes into scrap so I've ordered him a better one, when that turns up I'll have this one back and mod the steering. That's where the Jeep sits at the moment as the grub screw into the drive bushes lasts about 10 minutes max regardless of what I do. I feel the correct solution requires an aluminium bush with both internal and external keyways, then I need to broach a keyway into the wheel. I don't have access to a lathe however. I guess I could hand file the wheel keyway and see how long a printed key lasts? If the gap between wheel and shaft were larger I'd spec a powerlock bush if it was a machine at work. So onto the tiny caterham. Kittenham? To the surprise of all I made a decision, purchased 2 X 7ah 12v batteries. As a mobility scooter it's fitted with 2 X 35ah units for 25 miles range so I figure 5 miles (not counting the significant  Neat though this connection is I wanted rid of all this bracketry to move the seat back about 5" so I wound the screws in to mark the receiver, drilled through then cut post and brackets off. That took ages and looks terrible, then after I put everything away I realised I forgot the bracket attached to the rear frame, so that still needs dealing with.  If I raise the rear of the seat slightly or pad it less the seat back is basically against that cross brace. The only wires I have to modify are to the rear light which is fine, I want to change both lights anyway.  In my excitement I didn't actually try the thing on 24v so I'll do that tomorrow. I've also ordered the 50l bin for the bodywork and bearings for the front wheels, the latter will be fitted whenever they turn up, they're saying June at the moment. I could have had them this week if I paid £12 each, but I'll wait when the price is 4 for £6. Bodywork all follows from the bin and that's due Wednesday. We've ordered chilli red, because red ones go faster (and bright yellow was 3 times the price). Oh and the pwm controller for the Jeep arrived but looks like it was driven over so I need to try that carefully after I've checked nothing is actually broken. Claim already raised for shipping damage, at least I can use this to design and build a throttle, it's 270°with a nice positive click to zero. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 21:21 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 21:12
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cakesmith handyman posted:That's where the Jeep sits at the moment as the grub screw into the drive bushes lasts about 10 minutes max regardless of what I do. I feel the correct solution requires an aluminium bush with both internal and external keyways, then I need to broach a keyway into the wheel. I don't have access to a lathe however. I guess I could hand file the wheel keyway and see how long a printed key lasts? If the gap between wheel and shaft were larger I'd spec a powerlock bush if it was a machine at work. Can you buy a suitable I/D and O/D bit of ally stock off ebay? filing keyways that work into that by hand shouldnt be impossible with a square file (buy yourself a key with the same width as your file). Your junior assistant seems to have lots of energy based upon his love of hand drills. stick the file in the vice and get him to move a lump of ally back and forth on it for half an hour 
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May 4, 2020 22:47
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Hmm, is there a way to, instead of using woodruff keys, just drill a hole through the whole assembly and put a bolt through it? Or file a flat on stuff and use a chamfered cotter pin like old bicycle cranks? Also, Kittenham 
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May 5, 2020 14:33
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I don't know about the cotter pin and putting the bolt in radially only goes plastic to plastic which is no good. You have however reminded me of the trick we use on stuff that gets a proper thumping at work: Problem area  Get a counterbore centered between the two dissimilar plastics.  Laugh in despair as the drill tries to wander into the softer wheel plastic  Thrape (technical term) a bolt into its hole, in metal we'd use a self cutting hydraulic screw, unless we had none to hand, then we're tap and thread it in. Here I screwed it half way in then impacted it the rest. Then hand it over to the test pilot and crack out an ice lolly, it's warm.
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May 5, 2020 16:05
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Jeep axle fix is permanent, we've put 5 or 6 batteries with of punishment through it without issue. The PWM controller is DOA, I'll take the opportunity to make a throttle pedal that uses the varistor and wait for a replacement. Light weight body work kit arrived:  Luckily this is serious business, not a toy.  Made up a battery box:  Quick test to make sure it's happy:  A bunch of beeping and nothing else, luckily we have the service manual. 9 beeps is brake failed self check so I checked all the connectors (mine were crimps because I don't have the special connectors from the original batteries/loom) and it cleared itself right up. But are we sure it actually...y'know... Drives?  Yes. No video because it requires the hands to drive right now. Fast enough considering your arse is 3" from the ground and 1" from a spinning tyre. There's a little noise from the diff when warm and turning corners, I'll strip and service it before I let the kids loose. Moved the controller into the battery box because there's plenty of room and I need the height reducing.  Onto the steering, I need to rotate the steering column back to point back and lower so I notched the front of the frame.  This is forward of the front axle mount so they only force it's taking is steering, I plan to bolt a bracket across the open cut. Bent the column back:  Spot the hilariously foreseeable problem:   Originally the steering arm was forward of the column, now it's at the rear, so acts opposite to how it should. So I bent it back to where it was and dragged out plan B, the drill I was going to use for the jeep. I need to bend the column forward a little more and mount everything, then reinforce the cut some divot made in the chassis. Then I can start cutting the front body. 
cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 18:32 on May 7, 2020 |
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May 7, 2020 18:25
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Progress has been slow, for many and obvious reasons. First of all where I cut the column was a lost cause, so I cut it completely, spent hours trying to get a steering box arrangement working, gave up and notched the frame then tried to weld the column on at vaguely the right angle. It didn't work. So I ground/hammered it off and tried again. Looked okay but failed just being wheeled around the garage 6" at a time. I can't weld for poo poo.  Third time lucky  I also switched from two steering links to 1 and a bar between the wheels. Can't remember the technical term but when you go over a bump the wheels don't go different directions now.  Spent get too long measuring cutting fitting and recutting plywood for the body and the bin for the front bodywork.   At this point it works, I let the kids have a tool around the street in it. Next job is the rear bodywork and relocating the guts of the dash to the side of the cockpit, then lights/grill for the front.
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May 16, 2020 19:05
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You appear to have moved up to having two concurrent project vehicles. Well done I am assuming you are flux core/gasless welding there? I just spent about 4 hours making a very tricky plywood panel today with lots of cutouts and then my router hosed up and came loose and I messed up the last edge that I did. hopefully lots of wood glue can save it
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May 16, 2020 19:56
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Stick, I hate myself for starting with it but I want to get better rather than ditch it and buy a mig. If the edge is too bad you can scarf a thin/short piece in, I've had some success with a half lap too on a long piece.
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May 16, 2020 21:14
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A little more info: Looking down into the footwell, I've reused the original hand throttle as a pair of foot throttles, left is reverse, right is forward. Very intuitive, auto braking is taken care of by the stock controller, if you stomp reverse it does so sharply. Still limited to 4mph and I don't plan to change that. Speed pot is tucked down at the left, I've left it on full for now.  Electrics are currently taped to the side, working on printing a dash for the key, battery dial and 2 buttons (horn buzzer and lights) that'll be tucked down at the side.  The body is bolted down to the frame in 4 places, pronged tee nuts into the floor and bolts from underneath. At the rear I put the tee nuts in a position I could bolt down through the seat cushion (old IKEA folding chair cushion, parts of that chair have been "upcycled" into various uses for 10 years now) leaving enough bolt sticking through to get a nut on the back, so remove the nut and the body comes off, remove the bolt and you can pull the cushion.  Underneath at the rear I step-drilled a large enough hole to get the nut driver through to the nut. You bet I dropped both the nuts into the cavity when I removed them  After a couple of minutes of driving around it squeals and screeches in turns, I figure the diff so let's pull the drive unit.  Three 10mm nut/bolts either side and the cradle comes off the top, chassis drops to the floor. I put the Next step is to strip, inspect bearings and gears and regrease as appropriate. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 13:37 on May 17, 2020 |
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May 17, 2020 13:34
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It's been too long, both of these have had a ton of use by the kids, only a couple of updates: Someone made me a set of steel bushes for the jeep. Previously these were 3d printed, I actually got through a lot of them, turns out 3d printed PLA drive keys are a dumb idea  Drill/mill a slot for the bush-wheel key  The key then self-clearances with a little love from the hammer.  Bush-shaft connection is a set screw into the driveshaft key slot, because apparently a blind internal keyway is a fun job beyond the available tooling.  Then just rattle the bolt back in. This washer is largely superfluous now, the interference key hold it all together.  Repeat for the other side, this was the later design with a bolt/key recess printed in, hasn't failed yet but why not replace it when you have the parts?  Did the front bushes as well, we lose the fun random camber feature but gain some speed as the fronts went melty and odd shapes. Nothing to see. On to the kittenham, never fixed the screeching and I think it's the brake so let's dig into that: Realised I can drop the whole rear subframe so I don't have to take the body off again:  Still have to take everything apart to get at the brake  Nearly there  Split the brake  Nothing obviously amis except even in the disengaged position there's a tiny amount of drag. The gap/clearance is set by the tiny washers at the top centre of screen so I dug around and found a box of screws/bolts etc from taking apart random computer hardware. Found a set of washers that look like they fit so reassembled and tried again  Too much clearance. Put it back to standard, drag again. Tried a third time with paper added to the washers and it seems to be better, no noticeable drag when locked. I need some shim steel to do a proper job but for now that'll do, going to get the kids to burn a couple of charges and see if the noise is gone. Planned jobs Jeep: cut the hood down to the right depth, paint the body, wire in the running lights, sort out some sort of brake, trial the pwm speed controller. Planned jobs for the kittenham: headlights, rear arches, rear bodywork, dashboard, paint the wood sides.
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Aug 5, 2020 23:23
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Looks great, sir! Having printed a bunch of load-bearing stuff in PLA, the placement on the bed is crucial. I printed some turnbuckles so all the pieces were laying down, so there isn't a shear line through the middle of either the screw shaft or the turnbuckle barrel. Bad part: the layer lines make rough engagement. Solution: Lapping compound. The new turnbuckles take a surprising amount of abuse now. I also have a chipper/shredder that has a 3d-printed flange. That one would also shear across the middle. Printing it "sideways" means the hole is a little out-of-round from the long droopy bridge and crazy overhang angle, but I hammer it on the shaft and it works until the thing overheats and the flange melts.
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Aug 6, 2020 18:02
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Looking good man.
sharkytm fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 02:46
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This thread rules, when I saw the mobility scooter my mind went more in this direction though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19wYCVGJBcM
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Aug 8, 2020 18:16
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| # ? May 22, 2024 11:11 |
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In all honesty if I hadn't just got my bike license I think the next project would have been a 50% scale jeep on 4x4 panda running gear.
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Aug 8, 2020 18:31
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