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Nice one! Good to see a thread. Hoping it might motivate me a bit. I’m struggling to find the motivation to do mine at the moment and every time I start something I find I have to do something else big first. I’m gonna be struggling for wood supplies for my internal build out too in a couple of weeks I think if I can get my internal panelling done. I’ve got lots of plywood but almost zero other useful timber.
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Apr 17, 2020 16:06
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Blacknose posted:If you're in the UK Wickes click and collect is about your only good option currently, unless you've got a local woodyard who are both open and not completely backed up. It's definitely an extra challenge not being able to think 'poo poo I need some more 50mm wood screws' and run to a shop, but rather order online and wait days. Yeah I am in the UK - the landrover camper conversation thread is mine! I’ll check out wickes. I need wood to repair my broken bed too which is now starting to feel fairly essential after a week sleeping on the sofa!
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Apr 17, 2020 17:59
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Don't ever use silicon sealant on the external bits of the van, especially the roof - it wont last. It will seal fine to start with but then after a while it will leak. I think it just cant take the combination of the vibrations and heat. Ask me how I know this! I don't know what CT1 is like but I am now a convert to Sikaflex 221 which is loving amazing at sealing and gluing stuff together and can be overpainted unlike silicone. Its £7 or £8 per tube off ebay. You can tell it is good poo poo because if you get it on your hands it will be there for atleast a week,
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Apr 18, 2020 15:22
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Blacknose posted:So, following onto that. You should add an Awning to your list. They are both awesome for shade when its sunny and somewhere dry when its rainy! I'm currently undecided about a fresh water tank for mine. I've so far got 6 20L water jerry cans which I can stick on the roof and I might stick one inside too (to keep it cooler). I'm partly undecided about a fresh water tank because I'd need a custom one (or atleast a universal one that I could fit my own filler/take off too) and it would have to go under the floor inbetween the main chassis legs and I haven't managed to work out how the filler pipe would work because all the tank manufacturers i can find are terrible at documenting stuff on their websites.
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Apr 18, 2020 20:30
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Blacknose posted:I'm lucky to have room under the bed for one of the big blue fiamma jobs. I considered an underslung tank but it was double the cost. Your vehicle is a bit more restrictive when it comes to off the shelf stuff though I'd imagine. There are some second hand awning bargains to be had on ebay if you look around. I have a manual one with 2 aluminium tent pole style legs but would love a self supporting electric one. An awning pretty much doubles the usable space that you have when parked up! I had a proper camper van for a while and after owning that an awning was high on my list for my landrover. I could fit a generic rectangular tank too if I can find one that fits around the prop shaft travel. I've got a shitload of space under the rear floor but there are the main chassis legs on either side which will make a filler a challenge. I don't think i have actually looked at the fiamma tanks. that 70l might actually fit under my floor though i suspect one edge might have to deal with being very occasionally beaten by my prop shaft at full spring travel and the filler pipe might require a 40mm tunnel either through the chassis or through the floor and into the interior..
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Apr 18, 2020 21:50
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I wish i had the headspace to have battened my roof and just tongue and grooved it. It looks good and is so quick easy. I'm just about to start cutting some plywood sheets for mine.Blacknose posted:Maybe 15cm. I thought about leaving it for storage but I'd be concerned about he lack of insulation. It could perhaps have a shallow pocket in there though, I'll definitely have a think about that. You could just get some adhesive sheet stuff and stick it around the back of it inside and keep it for storage. Every storage position is useful for something!
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Apr 19, 2020 13:08
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Blacknose posted:I have one ready to go in the sliding door. Probably going to pay someone to do it although lock down has that on hold. Just not quite feeling confident doing it myself. What type of window do you have for the sliding door? Why are you worried about it? Just measure it 4 times and then cut that hole!  Where have you been looking for additional windows? Side Sliding windows in standard sizes start from about £45 for 18”x12”. I know far too much about them after buying mine
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Apr 20, 2020 04:06
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Blacknose posted:I was looking at the generic ones for a vent window by the bed, but ultimately decided against it for price and effort reasons. It'd be easy enough to add one later if I change my mind. Some of these start from £32+Vat for a sliding window (19.5" x 11.5") with clear glass and a plain aluminium frame. Hartford Commercial (in Bury) - I was recommended this place but didn't use them as I wanted weird sizes. They don't do custom sizes so I assume they don't make them in-house https://hartfordcommercial.co.uk/product-category/framed-windows/ Caldwells Windows (in Wigan) - This place make every single narrowboat window I have ever seen and I think also make Landrover windows for britpart (one of the biggest landrover non-OEM parts manufacturers) They manufacture onsite and also have a glass shop so can make custom sizes which end up about 20% more than the standard ones. http://caldwellswindows.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Horsebox-Landrover-2019.pdf If you go by size, the landrover defender sliding side windows they sell are great value at £60+VAT for 36"x15" tinted. Vehicle Window Centre (in Leeds) - Also manufacture everything onsite Their website is poo poo but they are very helpful if you go talk to them. This is their price list/main brochure Fitting the framed windows is dead simple. Cut a hole. Put sealant around the edge of the window and then rivet or screw it in using the holes in the frame. I have windows from Caldwells and a door from VWC. With the windows I have you could get away without any internal trim (which will cost you an extra few quid) as it looks tidy even without the trim and I think would look fine in your van if you box it in nicely like you did with your roof vent. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Apr 20, 2020 |
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Apr 20, 2020 18:38
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Great progress! I have a mate who has done a conversion using the same layout as you (except in a taller and longer van) and he seems really happy with it and uses it for carting motorbikes around in. I have appreciated it while stealing cups of tea made on his cooker while sitting under his awning hiding from the rain!. Blacknose posted:Aaaand now I'm deep into the portholes section of the Caldwells narrow boat catalogue. Watch out on the mountings of narrow boat specific windows. I visited Caldwell's shop and spoke to the very knowledgeable old guy in the office (who I suspect was Mr Caldwell) and I think most of the narrowboat windows are designed specifically for narrowboat wall configurations which will make mounting them in anything else quite tricky. I think they used some kind of clamping mechanism and your ability to deal with differing wall thicknesses didn't exist. quote:e; I also made my self bleed like 5 times pushing insulation out of the way in voids and snagging my hand on screw points. Don't recommend it. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Apr 21, 2020 |
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Apr 21, 2020 21:24
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I hadn’t seen those new requirements. The requirement for motor home graphics makes me  I stripped them off my last motor home because I thought they were poo poo but people seem to expect them! (The people who bought mine were going to put them back!) The only difference between a class 4 and class 7 mot is the cost isn’t it? I changed my landrover over years ago and the only requirement back then was a bed, fixed cooker and sink.
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May 1, 2020 21:34
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Blacknose posted:The actual written requirements haven't changed, just how they're being enforced. It seems to be an intentional dick move towards people converting scruffy old vans to live or travel in. They have changed from when I did mine 15 years ago. I’m pretty sure I just had to send in some photos of the interior showing bed, fixed sink and fixed cooker (mine was down as an ambulance) Blacknose posted:Unfortunately I'm not sure I'll have enough windows. I think you need at least 2 in any one side, plus they'll reject it if it looks like an old work van even if it has some strips on it. And, well, you've all seen my van. They make weird rules but they like to see their evidence that you are complying and won’t pass it unless you do meet the rules. You will need your two windows and you would need to make and effort With some proper decals (even if you stripped them back off afterwards). Don’t even bother applying if you can’t tick all the requirements off the list. It won’t get through and they will probably charge you some money.
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May 1, 2020 22:51
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Our DVLA is like your DMV and operates in what sounds like the exact same way. There is a form for everything; they work at their speed and you can only get what you want if you tick all of their requirements perfectly. To register a van as a motor home you have to meet the list of requirements which includes (from their site) “motor caravan-style graphics on both sides of the vehicle” and “2 or more windows on at least one side of the main body (this does not include windows on the driver or passenger doors) to provide a reasonable amount of daylight into the living accommodation” There is obviously some variable interpretation here so the result is gonna depend on who assesses your application and how well you present it. Have dealt with them a lot myself I don’t think they are that bad now. You’ve just got to methodically work through things with them how they request and keep it simple and refer to their wording everywhere and present all your evidence properly and with an appropriate covering letter/document. To meet the above two I’d be including sources for the graphics I used or copied showing their motorCaravan heritage and the reciepts for the motor home specific window units I had installed along with well lit photos.
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May 2, 2020 00:23
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:FYI I just went through a 4 month battle to register an imported car with them over similar pedantics, and fortunately they don't charge you until they accept the application. I had to get the records changed on my Landrover last year to get the build date corrected so I could get historic (zero) tax/test on it. The DVLA lost my application internally which included my original V5 and original copies of all my build evidence. They will not accept that they have lost anything until 4 working weeks have passed. They then made me pay for a replacement V5 (by cheque) before I could re-apply for the build date correction. (A V5 which would then get immediately superseded by the data change). I had to re-purchase all the factory evidence in order to re-send it. I hadn't added extra insurance to the original recorded delivery so this cost me another £50 as it wasn't all covered. The second time they managed to keep my application but lost all the evidence and V5 again. It took them 4 weeks to send me a letter telling me they couldn't process it because of this. I then rang them and after an argument managed to get escalated through to someone in the relevant team and was able to send digital copies of all my evidence and not have to pay for another V5. The change got processed and showed up in the online checkers in under 24 hours. Over the next 4 weeks both sets of lost evidence were returned to me in DVLA stationary along with an updated V5! I then had to hand this V5 in at the post office to get it updated again to show 'historic' as you cant do this at the same time as getting the build date changed. There is no cost for this!
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May 2, 2020 17:31
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buy yourself some axle stands! (we can help advise on the best ones to buy if it helps). If your cab is also very grotty a small steam cleaner, some cleaning fluid decanted into a hand sprayer, a pack of microfibre cloths and a pack of car detailing brushes works wonders. do you think that paint will work well on the floor? i'm not sure I'd trust cheap wall emulsion to last well on a floor where there is the danger of sitting water and wet boots. I think it might look poo poo after the first time you go out on a rainy day/wet field. Can you varnish over it to make it last better? I've been looking at vinyl remnants for mine. 2m x 1.5m will just cover my floor perfectly! Blacknose posted:Oiling the wood loving sucked. I used Danish oil, brushed on thick then wiped off after 20 or 30 minutes. Got covered in the poo poo and my shoulder hurts from doing the ceiling. I keep having to pace myself working on mine because all the powertool use and repetitive movements make my wrist hurt (drilling 120 holes in the ceiling was the worst). I already have a wrist support I wear at my PC. I think i need another one for car work 
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May 9, 2020 22:53
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Blacknose posted:
Forums and google are for diagnosing!  It’s a big van but it isn’t that heavy so you will be fine if you work sensibly. You’ve got some solid ground to work on right? Always put it on stands rather than just a jack and chuck the wheels under it too. Get decent rated stands that match the van weight. You should always look at what it will cost you to pay someone else and work out how many tools or how much useful stuff that would buy you
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May 10, 2020 00:00
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Its looking good in the back!. Over engineered makes fixing stuff to it easier! My local timber merchant sell 18mm flooring/shuttering plywood which works out very cheap (its only £22/sheet!) for the thickness and amount of wood you get. I bought a sheet to fix a bed base (in my house not in the van) and was amazed by how solid it was. Might work well for your bulkhead and looks like it would finish OK with paint and if you sealed the edges. https://www.skeelingtimberonlineshop.co.uk/store/18-x-2440mm-x-1220mm-Sturdy-floor-Shuttering-Plywood-p138128944
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May 24, 2020 13:48
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Blacknose posted:More pressingly I was just out at the van and realised the huge 15kg calor sized locker I bought doesn't fit in the kitchen unit under the hob, so now it's a toss up between paying someone to do all the gas plumbing to install it under the bed or selling it on ebay at a loss and just using Campingaz, because I am running out of effort for bullshit and also pushing the top of the budget (I can afford to spend more I just don't want to). Legally I don't think you have to have anything done or checked by a gas professional in a self build van..... If you are DIY'ing then: You can buy a honeywell ezsense battery powered gas detector for £30 (I've got one - it works!). You can easily check any connections with it or check for a general leak. Propane/butane/LPG in a vehicle is easy to deal with as it is heavier that air so you just need to ensure that your gas locker is sealed down to vent that goes out through the floor. LPG installs do this so you can easily get bulkhead connectors or campervan floor vent covers
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Jun 10, 2020 19:26
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Blacknose posted:It's true you don't have to, but if I'm running 4+ metres of copper through the habitation areas both me and my insurance company would feel better with a certificate. Also the confidence factor, I guess. My insurance company have never asked about any certs for my camper van conversion. I've had to get a cert for the LPG engine fuel install but nothing for the cooker. Having owned a 'professionally' converted van and stripped a caravan down, 'professional' camper van gas install standards are very low! I also watched the place do my LPG engine certs. They simply checked the lines visually, did all the joints and the line with a gas probe and checked i had installed everything as per the book before setting it up properly (which is the only complicated bit!). Tomarse fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jun 10, 2020 |
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Jun 10, 2020 21:22
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Blacknose posted:OK, I'm going to come at this with a fresh head tomorrow, speak to the gas engineers we use for our house and decide if it's worth taking a punt on a reel of 8mm copper, a pipe bender and a tester and having a crack at it. Feel free to ignore me - and don't hesitate to get a professional to check things if you feel you should! but I don't want you to waste your money unnecessarily. you should: Check with your insurers if they care about any certs or proof for your conversion. Mine don't seem to. find out if there are any legal standards you need to follow find out if there are any recommendations you need to follow I'm basing my approach on what I've seen so far. My proper motorhome had a gas locker which was an internal wooden unit direct onto the flooring. Silicone sealed along its edges with the floor and a vent hole with tube drilled through the floor. The gas bottle regulator was attached to a bit of rubber gas hose which was then jubilee clipped onto 8mm copper. This copper ran internally to a 3 way block with stop taps which then ran internally to all the gas appliances. The gas appliances (cooker, heater, water heater) were also in units siliconed to the floor. There were floor vents below them all. The cooker unit had a lip of an inch or two along the front edge (which I like to think would guide any gas leakage out the floor vent rather than into the interior but might have just been decorative). This is lower spec than the requirements for LPG engine installs (you have to run all pipework externally under the car for engine fueling) You can also buy 8mm copper by the metre from an LPG installer. The automotive stuff is rubber covered too which is nice. They will also sell you P clips for it. 8mm copper can be bent by hand OK. 90 degrees with a sensible radius will be easy. If you need a really tight bend you can get 8mm angle fittings which are compression type with olives and a couple of them will be loads cheaper than a pipe bender. LPG supplier will also get you these.
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Jun 10, 2020 22:23
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Blacknose posted:That's really solid advice, thanks! From 2 minutes of googling it looks like the legal situation is that you can do whatever gas work you like in your own motorhome if you are self-rated as 'competent'. Having work checked/certified/done by a registered gas installer is only legally required if you are hiring the vehicle out. So its down to you here. If I were you I would DIY it, and either buy a tester or get someone to leak test it for you (I bought my own because more tools are always good!). You could easily do a 24/48 hour leak down test too (weight the gas bottle before and after). You are only actually going to do 2 joints if you only have one unbroken piping run! Do some reading up on best practise - but I think you pretty much just need to go for making sure your locker is sealed and vented downwards through the floor (think of leaking LPG like leaking water), and think about where the connector on the back of your cooker or your cooker itself might leak to and make sure everything below there is vented downwards in a way that it would leave the vehicle. I am planning on running my gas line using automotive rubber covered copper and dropping it down below the floor, exiting/entering through my gas vent holes. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jun 10, 2020 |
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Jun 10, 2020 23:05
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looks fine to me. That's pretty much what a professional install looks like. Just clamp it in place and its all good. If you are too short you can just use an 8mm compression/olive joint on it, or you could fit an 8mm gas isolating valve there (eg https://www.screwfix.com/p/gas-isolating-valve-8-x-8mm/87408) to make any future cooker replacement easier.
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Jun 13, 2020 19:04
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Blacknose posted:I'm kind of concerned by a bunch of spots where the pipe has flattened slightly. I also don't think it's a good idea to drill near the bottom of the locker for the pipe to enter (although I could be unfounded in my concern). I guess I could join it although wouldn't that require another drop vent? I know how you feel about overwhelming jobs! just keep working at it and it will be done eventually! A bit of flattening will be fine. As long as it comes into the locker above the vent hole in the base then you are good. Have you got one of the pre-made bottle locker units? what does it look like? Is the end that is too short where it enters the locker or in your unit under the cooker?
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Jun 13, 2020 21:04
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Please stop making so much interior progress you make me jealous!. I've just spent another afternoon doing loads of bitty jobs
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Jun 15, 2020 20:30
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Blacknose posted:Is there a tricky to using a holesaw and having it not try to rip your wrist off? Between that and a holesaw starting small fire today was a bit long. Productive though, photos to follow tomorrow. buy a more expensive drill with a better clutch, use better quality holesaws and go slow! If you read the actual specifications for most drills they give max sizes and thicknesses which rule out most useful holesaws. I needed a drill for work a few years ago that would drill 80mm holes through 30mm worktop (standard cable grommit in computer desks) and had to both search hard and then spend a lot. It was great to use as it would gracefully just disengage when it bound up rather than trying to break your wrists and making a funny smell. I used my ancient 14v Ryobi to do some 30mm holes though a sheet of chequerplate with a massive stepdrill today. It is actually nicer to use than my newer and better 18v drill as it has less power and so just stops when it gets caught up rather than kicking back at you.
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Jun 17, 2020 21:46
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Where was that from? Next week I plan on getting all my “facilities” into the back of mine to start doing some interior design planning
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Jun 20, 2020 21:54
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Blacknose posted:Given that lowtax is a wife beater I dunno how long this thread has left to exist, but today I cut the worktop for the stove. Join the AI slack so we can keep seeing the progress somewhere!
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Jun 24, 2020 17:38
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Blacknose posted:Dunno if I'm going to keep the thread going. I really loving hate domestic abusers and don't know if I want to keep posting here as a result. I want to finish documenting the build and, assuming anyone is actually following it, finish showing you guys that process but blurgh what a wasteman. I think I’ve given up on updating my project thread here now too. I’ll carry on if the forums get repossessed by someone else or will carry it on in AI v2 whenever that ends up. I like seeing your progress! Maybe we should get a #projectupdates channel in slack? Edit - lol CSB created a projects channel like 5 mins ago! Tomarse fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Jun 26, 2020 |
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Jun 26, 2020 00:44
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Blacknose posted:The clips for the sink are basically useless for any worktop thicker that 15mm. They don't mention this anywhere in the specs. loving Dometic. If it makes you feel better budget house sinks also come with fixings that are bastards to use with 40mm worktop. can you get longer bolts from screwfix for them?
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Jun 29, 2020 20:13
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Good luck with your insurance. I had similar issues (lightning strike) and it sucked. My appliances were all fine but I had to fix or replace everything else that was plugged into the mains or a network cable.
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Jul 16, 2020 00:17
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If you have to give them a total for small electronic claims take your time walking round the house and working it out. I was still finding stuff weeks later that I had missed (Like ever single charger/power supply for anything)
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Jul 16, 2020 08:35
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Blacknose posted:Got the bracing welded in for the spare finally. Guy who did it runs a welding/fabricating shop and while I think what he's done is fine the welds are proper snot quality. Hope everything else he's done over the past 30 years has been a bit tidier than this. Your welding expectations are far too high! Those welds look tidy, well done and solid (especially considering they haven't been tidied up/dressed at all). You're never going to get perfection when welding new metal to old metal in place on a vehicle unless you pay lots of money (which I assume you didnt!)
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Aug 23, 2020 13:48
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Blacknose posted:I'm seriously considering roller painting this heap with either military paint or rustoleum come spring. Anyone want to talk me in/out of it? Do it! My truck is holding up well and still looks good 7 months later!. I found roller & brush painting to be really enjoyable compared to the stress and hard work of spraying! I'm probably going to roller an old car at some point. you can get a great finish - especially on flat panels like your van or a landrover. I used Satin nato green from here https://marcusglenn.com/military-vehicle-paint/5-x-litres-nato-green-satin This places does the synthetic coach enamel in a load of different colours - https://paintman.co.uk/product-category/coach-enamel-paint/ and have a good reputation for landrover paint. If you go matt finish bear in mind that it will apparently fade pretty quick. My mates nato matt green landrover definitely did fade after just a couple of years. hoping my satin finish lasts for longer. Darchangel posted:Spraying is actually easier and yields a better finish, at the expense of being potentially messier, and of course more costly. PokeJoe posted:by a $20 electric paint sprayer on aliexpress. it's only got to work a few times and will still look better than a roller Anybody not sure about the finish you can get from roller painting, check my thread - https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3913452&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=3#post505530141 Rollering is easier than spraying, needs less surface prep and doesnt need any sanding afterwards (with Satin paint anyway!) Also - no $20 aliexpress poo poo for us in the UK now as we now have customs charges, import tax and customs payment fees 
Tomarse fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jan 12, 2021 |
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Jan 12, 2021 19:52
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Yeah, masking for a roller isn't as critical as for spraying. You are mainly doing it to stop drips/splashes on stuff rather than because every tiny uncovered bit means overspray. Kinda like painting in the house! I found it was easier to paint round edges carefully with the small brush than it was to mask it carefully and paint up to the masking. i just masked roughly. Spraying proper paint with a compressor takes a lot of practise to get good at it and you need to spend proper money on the gear (and get PPE). Doing a large panel van outside is not the best thing to start on imo. I've done 2 entire cars and odd repairs and am still not great at it. If you are costing it, I used: a small amount of body filler to remove some of the dents and rivet holes i didn't like a bit of sandpaper. You will need more to key your old paint - get 10 packs of wet and dry from screwfix and order some coarse scotch-brite (green washing up scouring pad -like stuff) off ebay. a couple of rolls of masking tape and some paper for covering the windows 9-10 aerosol cans of etch primer (I was going over bare metal and this was the cheapest/easiest way to do it). You probably want normal primer instead and could roller that too. 5L top coat (I had about 0.25L left over at the end and did 2 coats) 1 small tin of the correct thinners (buy with the paint) 25 foam rollers and 3 or 4 handles (the glue dissolves so you only get 25 mins out of each one - you can buy them in 5 packs) 4 x fine tip 1/4" hand brushes for the edges (decent ones with synthetic bristles not lovely ones) You don't need any PPE other than gloves for synthetic paint The paint i used was best applied around 10-12C and out of direct sunlight. when it got up to 15C or i did panels that had warmed in the sun it dried to quick and the finish was not as good. Insects don't seem to be attracted as much to synthetic paint as to spray paint that has more thinners in. My biggest issue was tree blossom blowing into it! runs are easy to avoid. I only got them around my guttering and fiddly bits like protruding brackets and the fuel filler. The way you roller the paint is that you put it on, then roll over it again multiple times to gradually remove any bubbles (I think this is called "laying off" but by roller rather than brush). This deals with most possible runs too. I think I only spent around £150 all in to do mine and the etch primer was a big part of this. 5l Top coat and some thinners was £80
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Jan 12, 2021 21:51
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Blacknose posted:That lines up pretty much with what I was expecting. I'm hoping to get away with just flatting back the current paint and going straight onto that with top coat, rather than priming. Red is poo poo to cover so it might mean an extra coat but it saves a step. you will need 2 top coats but the second one is much easier. you could use cheap aerosol primers over your old paint. buying in bulk off ebay can make it cheaper. Check how well it covers without if you are testing .I found that the paint goes off in the tin really quick once opened - so either buy a small tin for your test or if you buy a big tin, don't keep it open for long and use a cup or something to decant it rather than pouring it so you don't get paint all over the rim and end up losing the ability to close the lid tight so it seals properly. store it somewhere sensible and cool. I have a load of really cheap plastic beakers (they were 4 for £1 from ikea or something similar) which are great for decanting paint without pouring it.
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Jan 12, 2021 22:24
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Its not a proper project vehicle if you haven't had to redo stuff multiple times. bonus points if you have to either chop bits off that you attached or refill holes that you made..
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Jan 14, 2021 22:47
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