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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Random, but with that being a wet bathroom, shouldn't that outlet be covered or in an enclosure? Or is there gonna be a shower curtain?

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

cursedshitbox posted:

Lastly, the state is stored on the remote, not the fan. If you try to use one remote for two fans, one fan will get confused. In that if you try to close them one at a time, when you hit the close button for the first, it works. when the same command is repeated for the second, the handheld controller sends the signal to open the fan. The same button handles open/close.

This is so loving annoying, and a lot of portable AC units (and some window AC units) do the same poo poo. My old portable AC (a pile of poo poo Soleus) sent all of the stored stuff with every key press, so if you'd dared to adjust something on the actual unit, as soon as you used the remote, EVERYTHING went back to what the remote thought it should be.

Power was also stored in the remote... so if the remote thought it was on, and it was really off, when you pressed power on the remote, the remote only sent power and nothing else, then went into "derp it's off", when it's actually on, and wouldn't allow any other commands until you hit power again. I had to cover the IR blaster so often when either it missed part of the 2-3 seconds of commands, or when the remote got confused about the power states.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

So is this gonna be BaitBusCamper when you guys are done? :v:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

cursedshitbox posted:

The indicator in the middle isn't a "service on" light, it is a warning sentinel that gas or power isn't available to make heated water. Basically it's a light that states "enjoy your cold shower"
With this, the water heater is operational. It takes roughly 20-30 minutes to make water warm enough for dishes/showering on either energy source. I've not tried it combined yet.

I know this is a page back, but wouldn't it be a good idea to also add a pilot light (or two - one for each energy source?) to show the water heater IS on? I'm sure you don't want to burn through all your LP keeping water hot, or burn through your batteries or LP (via generator) by forgetting to shut it off when you don't need it.

I'm sure it's not like a residential water heater, where hot water stays pretty warm for a few days without heating so long as you use it sparingly.

Glad to see the shakedown went pretty okay. The gas Kenmore oven in my shithole rental does the same until it hits ~550 (assuming it's a safety cutout), then the thermostat finally decides to start cutting in and out and maintaining temp sorta decently. No idea how accurate it is (don't have an oven thermometer), but so long as I let it cycle a few times, nothing has been burnt (badly) so far. What's weird is the ignitor stays hot the entire time it's on, whether or not it's calling for fire; I figured it would cycle off and on as gas was needed, but no, it stays on the entire time the oven is on. Of course, using the front right cooktop burner also makes the place REEK of gas, and if I do the stupid and flick a lighter by the knob when that burner is on, I get a poof and lose some arm hair. So I don't use that burner. :downsgun:

(this is the 2nd most basic gas range Kenmore made 20-25 years ago... it's a step above because it has a digital timer AND a (manual) oven light!)

To make it relative, I'm essentially paying the Austin version of the Bay Area "this part of the closet is yours, you sleep on the top shelf" rental rates for this shithole 2/1/1 duplex, the HVAC works fantastic, layout is decent, and the electric bills are stupid low... so I can't really bitch... anything else this size that has a decent landlord goes for several hundred more a month and likely won't have a new HVAC

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Jul 20, 2020

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

cursedshitbox posted:

I hear you on Austin, sounds like some sweet digs stove issues considered. The camper is significantly nicer than the bay area house I rent for way too much money. This 110 year old house does have a/c though which causes the meter to have its own gravity well it spins so hard. We're set for the impending PG&E season with the camper though.

Our AC is new enough that the digital meter has only burned out a few segments :v: We used ~800 kWh last month, AC usually at 72-74.

It's an older duplex (1981), it's the most basic duplex of duplexes ever (over half the street is the same floorplan, has the same exterior lighting, etc), it hasn't been taken care of, but it's 4 walls, a roof, 1 bathroom, 2 bedrooms, and a 1 car garage for $1300.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Jul 21, 2020

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

2.801c/kWh from 0-500, tier 2 is 5.832c/kWh (between 501-1000).

Plus about 4 cents worth of various fees.

Our power is CHEAP so long as you're in the city limits. The suburbs get hit hard, my old apartment would have had at least a $175-180 electric bill for about the same usage.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

cursedshitbox posted:

Usually the hydraulics will bleed down on the cheap jacks, this worn out floor jack is no different which is part of why you do not trust them.

This. My old HF jack started dropping slowly, then while lifting Brokeback a few months back, the seal went pop and it just spewed fluid and dumped the car on the ground. I was trying like hell to get it high enough to get a jack stand under it, and was finally close to getting one under when it went pop. Glad my hand wasn't on top of the stand.

Nothing hurt except for my shorts, very code brown moment. At least when I had a lovely scissor jack fail, I got an audible creaking as a warning (and I still nearly wound up with a rotor embedded in my thigh - I always wonder how the hell I lived through my teen years without losing a limb).

ALWAYS use jack stands, with some kind of backup (even if the backup is just a wheel on its side under the control arm).

Of course, at the moment, my current jack is the HF "race" jack... 1.5 tons, because they didn't have my 3 ton compact jack in stock, and I was already dropping $70 to replace a $30 jack. :mad: My car weighs almost 2 tons, most of it up front. It's sketchy as hell, but it takes like 3 or 4 pumps to get the car off the ground now. And TBH it's better in every way than the $29 jack it replaced... except for the price.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

cursedshitbox posted:

good and sketchy af. That's just like my lovely craftsman jack. It'll lift the truck but baaaarely. Don't stick anything you care about under the vehicle while supported by that jack. nope nope nope.

To be fair, it has like a 3 foot long handle, and instead of itty bitty pumps with what amounts to a stick, it does CSB size pumps. Guess that's why they call it a "racing" jack. It lifts the back of the car EASY if I lift by the rear diff. Lifting one front wheel on it takes a lot more effort, but it's still easier than the tiny red $29 jack it replaced (and I don't have to get partly under the car to use the drat handle!).

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Needs the truck w/camper airbrushed on it. With the airbrushed one having an airbrushed painting on it too. And... so on.

And maybe a Red Bull can :quagmire:

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