|
Sarah Cenia posted:that's awesome! I'd like to try that. do you use a particular hook or rig for it, other than the smallest possible? The Japanese art of Tanago has a very specific rig. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYtDnzOiHZo This is more what I have in mind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1CMTIyTNel0 At the moment, my rig is basic 2.7 m fiberglass tenkara rod with a 12' braided tenkara line finished with about 20" of 5x tippet. And yeah, tiny hook. I have a bunch of little nymphs to try, but I might try to tie something that looks like an ant pupa. For the really tiny stuff, I think I'll just try a dough bait with some anise to start. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Apr 13, 2024 |
#
?
Apr 13, 2024 19:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 30, 2024 08:02 |
|
|
I did my first bit of fishing for 2024 today. I headed out to the local river and since it's been raining like crazy for what seems like months now the water was really high and dark. I figured it would be a waste of time to use lures so I ended up just using a plain jighead with some nightcrawler. I bounced it around the bottom and I ended up catching a approx 16" Pickerel which I thought was kind of funny I don't think of Pickerel as worm eating but it was probably more the motion that triggered it to bite. I also caught a pretty decent size Rock Bass so not bad for only fishing about an hour.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 03:40
|
|
|
I've never fished before, I don't think I've ever even touched a fishing rod outside of walking by them in retail stores. I'm trying to keep things simple, but I don't wanna actually complicate poo poo for myself by trying to keep it simple. My plan is to spend under 50 bucks on a 6-7ish foot long moderate-fast travel rod (probably multipart but maybe telescoping?), attach some line directly to it without a reel rated at the same or slightly lower lbs as the rod, and...I actually haven't thought of the last bit exactly but hook/lure/bait seems like I can figure it out whenever since it is less of an investment and it'll likely be changing frequently. Anyway I want to put that along with a cheap kayak in my car and drive to random lakes, paddle around and see what bites. Is this a bad idea and I should really suck it up and figure out how reels work? Is this a bad idea for other reasons? I'd eventually wanna be able to process and cook some fish right on the water, but that's not an immediate goal, for now I'll just bring lots of beef jerky or something. Brut fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Apr 15, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 07:17
|
|
|
I've been over the boat fairly thoroughly. Everything seems to work although the motor does need to turn over a bit before it starts. I think that's because of the fuel running back into the tank between uses though. It started a lot quicker this evening now I know about the bulb for priming it. The holes in the transom were easy enough to patch up with some blind rivets and sikaflex. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to get it out on the water but I'll give that a go later this week.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 08:53
|
|
|
trying to figure out how to go without a reel is going to be more complicated than just spending a little time figuring out a spinning reel, they're not really complicated. watch a couple of youtube videos and you'll have it down in 15 minutes max. if you're really attached to the no reel idea, maybe look into tenkara, but i've never done it. rod length/power/action are going to be dependent on your location and what fish you're chasing, if you want to eat panfish that's a different ballgame than catfish, for example i would also consider how cheap you want to be with the kayak - jumping up to 700-800 dollars for a decent entry level sit on top like a crescent primo is going to be a massive quality of life upgrade over the 200-300 dollar walmart/tractor supply kayaks, and it might hold some resale value. you also might find people's used kayaks on fb marketplace/craigslist/etc, i'd get a used old town/native/other name brand over a new cheap kayak every day of the week. all this assumes you're in the us, but spinning reels being easy+maybe drop a bit more on the kayak will be universal.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 08:54
|
|
|
Brut posted:I've never fished before, I don't think I've ever even touched a fishing rod outside of walking by them in retail stores. I'm trying to keep things simple, but I don't wanna actually complicate poo poo for myself by trying to keep it simple. Start with a cheap bamboo rod. This one has has everything you need. "2 part bamboo pole, 1 bobber, 1 hook, fishing line with winder and 1 sinker" https://www.amazon.com/Bamboo-Cane-Fishing-Bobber-Sinker/dp/B072M3LRRZ?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 11:47
|
|
|
Southern Cassowary posted:trying to figure out how to go without a reel is going to be more complicated than just spending a little time figuring out a spinning reel, they're not really complicated. watch a couple of youtube videos and you'll have it down in 15 minutes max. if you're really attached to the no reel idea, maybe look into tenkara, but i've never done it. I suppose if I am gonna use a reel, from what I can tell (apologies if the following sentence is terribly wrong) there's a type of fishing where you cast out and then slowly reel in hoping for a bite on the way back, and another type where you start reeling only once you've hooked something (or if you gave up and wanna recast), I am aware that I might change my mind once I'm actually on the water but at least in theory that first option sounds awful, I do not want to sit there continuously reeling all the time, so maybe that narrows things down? Southern Cassowary posted:rod length/power/action are going to be dependent on your location and what fish you're chasing, if you want to eat panfish that's a different ballgame than catfish, for example Southern Cassowary posted:i would also consider how cheap you want to be with the kayak - jumping up to 700-800 dollars for a decent entry level sit on top like a crescent primo is going to be a massive quality of life upgrade over the 200-300 dollar walmart/tractor supply kayaks, and it might hold some resale value. you also might find people's used kayaks on fb marketplace/craigslist/etc, i'd get a used old town/native/other name brand over a new cheap kayak every day of the week. So I drive a Honda Fit that just has a flat roof that's kinda notorious for bending if you try to strap a kayak on it with pool noodles/foam blocks/those $50 softish things from Walmart, and when I look at metal roof racks I see people writing not to buy $100 ones cuz those can fly off and I should get the $250 ones, then I see people saying not to get the $250 ones and I should spend like 600 dollars or some poo poo? ("Thule" gets thrown around a lot) Anyway I said gently caress all that and took a measuring tape to the inside of my car, turns out I can comfortably fit about 103 inches rear-to-dash, and maybe a few more inches if I'm willing to have a kayak sit somewhat on the dash. As far as I can tell, that means I have a few different options: Buying an inflatable kayak, which is between about 90 bucks to infinity, seems like they're fine until suddenly they're really not fine. Buying a brand new folding kayak, which either means handing like a grand over to a company like Brooklyn Kayak Company or one of those other ones importing Vicking Molding or similar kayaks, or trying to import one (or several because container shipping) myself via alibaba, in both cases the price difference is relatively minor to upgrade to a pedal drive model, thus the links I included. Buying a thin-material folding kayak like the $350 Tucktec or their smaller $250 model Boto, or the much more expensive competitor, Oru Kayak. Comedy options: Buying a used "BIC Yakka" (Yes, the lighter and pen company), a 2 piece kayak that has an inflatable component, these are 20 years old and were bad when they were new, the only one I saw sold seemed like the seller didn't even know there should be an inflatable part. Buying a used "Origami Paddler" folding kayak, these are not too hard to find, but seem to be terrible in a variety of ways. Buying a used (or new I guess) folding kayak from the european company "Point 65", the connection between the pieces seems very flimsy and the company itself seems to have non-existent support. I think there's a couple other similar ones from different companies over the years but you get the idea. Buying a different car. (lmao) Or, what it seems like I'm going to be doing, spending at most $180 on kayak because Tractor Supply have 8.5 feet Hydros (known elsewhere as Volt) constantly available at that price, but I'm more likely gonna spend even less by finding a good condition one used, one actually got posted last night for $125 but it is under the old "Volt 101" label which is before Lifetime realized that "101" would be standard naming for a 10.1 foot kayak and not a 101 inch kayak, and cut that poo poo out and renamed it to Volt 85, which means since it is using the old number, it is at least a few years old, but the condition looks near-new in the pictures. It looks like at some point these "Daylite" aka "Lotus" 8 footers were also widely available, but for some reason at least around be they're hard to find now, at least around here Walmart don't wanna stock kayaks at all, it's weird because they have a bit more weight capacity than the 8.5 foot Hydros/Volt so theoretically an interesting option. The main complaint about these things seems to be "they stop immediately when you stop paddling", I'm completely fine with that, in fact for what I'm gonna be doing that seems...good? Anyway if you're wondering why there's a near month gap between my post in the inflatable boat thread that I linked above, and this post now, it's because figuring out all this kayak bullshit above took a lot of time, I'm so tired of looking at websites. Did I mention that it seems like almost every kayak company went out of business or got bought by a different company in the last few years, causing a lot of unavailability as well as a bunch of model renaming cascades that makes it hard to search for anything? Do you want Ocean Kayak Frenzy or an Old Town Ocean Kayak Frenzy or an Ocean Kayak Malibu, those are actually all the same, except for when they're randomly not, even inside the same exact branding:   I mean look at this poo poo, both these kayaks can be anywhere from 8 feet to like 9.5 and I have no way of knowing without individually messaging sellers like "Hey exactly how long is this kayak, no really, measure it, yes I know your ad says 8 feet".Desert Bus posted:Start with a cheap bamboo rod. This one has has everything you need. "2 part bamboo pole, 1 bobber, 1 hook, fishing line with winder and 1 sinker" Interesting. Is there some advantage of bamboo other than price? While I'm looking to avoid initial complexity for myself, I'm not like roleplaying living in previous centuries or something, so I'm perfectly happy making use of modern materials and construction (especially if it means a lesser chance of the rod breaking). Brut fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Apr 15, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 12:05
|
|
|
Brut posted:Interesting. Is there some advantage of bamboo other than price? While I'm looking to avoid initial complexity for myself, I'm not like roleplaying living in previous centuries or something, so I'm perfectly happy making use of modern materials and construction (especially if it means a lesser chance of the rod breaking). It is very very strong and very very light and flexible. Desert Bus fucked around with this message at 12:17 on Apr 15, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 12:15
|
|
|
Those bamboo poles, complete with 10 feet of the cheapest line, slipper bobber, pinch weight and hook, can be purchased at Walmart for $4. Get one of those and a tub of live red worms and go to town. Your kayak shopping sounds like an impending case of "buy once cry once." You mostly get what you pay for with kayaks and the entriest of levels is not going to get you something pleasant to paddle, and it's going to be downright miserable to fish out of.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 15:58
|
|
|
ihop posted:Your kayak shopping sounds like an impending case of "buy once cry once." ihop posted:it's going to be downright miserable to fish out of.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 16:56
|
|
|
Brut posted:Could you elaborate on this? i've got a lifetime here my nieces use. not the hydros, think it's a model up. there are livable issues - the seat is worse, the molded footrest positions are a big comfort loss compared to being able to set them yourself with a slider, storage is lacking (not as big of an issue if you're just using a bamboo pole though). i think if the choice is compromise kayak or no kayak, though, i'd pick no kayak. you're going to get blown around more so any wind more than a slight breeze is going to be miserable. the difference between a 5mph wind and an 8mph wind is profound even on a big fishing kayak. if a storm rolls in and you're suddenly dealing with 20mph winds on a decent sized lake you or if you get buzzed by a recreational boater it would probably be unsafe. those things have happened to me on my bigger kayak more than once, i can not imagine regularly dealing with those issues on a 9 foot kayak. also that lifetime is only rated to 225 pounds. if you are a dude with any muscle or fat at all you+fishing stuff is going to go over that or be close to the limit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 17:53
|
|
|
Brut posted:I'm way more attached to my budget than I am to the no-reel idea, Tenkara seems to be at prices that just have more digits than I'd like. I guess I should be a bit clearer here, I'm not too concerned about not catching anything at first, I'm worried about consequences like "Since your line is attached to the end of the rod rather than a reel, if you have to cut the line and you can't reach it, you're hosed" or "If you don't know what might bite, a cheap rod might snap and smack you in the face hard enough to need medical attention". I would suggest getting a 7ft medium spinning combo as a first "do everything" rod setup. The Daiwa Revros LT is available in a 2pc setup and it's a great budget combo, albeit a little above your $50 price point. This will be suitable for basically anything freshwater and even suitable for some light inshore fishing in GA/FL or wherever you end up further south (just be sure to hose it down with fresh water at the end of the day after fishing salt). https://www.tackledirect.com/daiwa-revros-lt-spinning-combos.html You can use this for either cast & retrieve style fishing with artificial lures or just tie on a baited hook with live bait or use a bobber with something like worms or chunks and just cast it out and wait. If you absolutely need to go cheaper than the Revros then this is probably not the worst option: https://www.tackledirect.com/quantum-op40702md-ns3-optix-spinning-combo.html A 6'6" isn't a terrible option either: https://www.tackledirect.com/lews-hypersonic-speed-spin-spinning-combos.htmlhttps://www.tackledirect.com/lews-hypersonic-speed-spin-spinning-combos.html edit- On the kayak front: absolutely budget for a good PFD and wear it every time you are out regardless of conditions, water depth or mood. I like my NRS Chinook OS a lot but it's pretty spendy. There are $20 options out there if you need to stay in a budget, though. Just go to Bass Pro/Cabelas/etc and find whatever Type II or Type III fits you best and is in budget. edit2- NRS has some sizes/colors of the Chinook on sale for $89, which is a bargain. https://www.nrs.com/nrs-chinook-fishing-pfd/p4j7 charliebravo77 fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Apr 15, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 18:10
|
|
|
i would absolutely get that daiwa combo for 80 bucks if i were starting fishing today edit: also yeah an nrs chinook is clutch. got one about a year ago. massive comfort and qol upgrade over the stohlquist universal pfd i had before. Southern Cassowary fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Apr 15, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 18:15
|
|
|
Yeah my last-year's-model closeout Chinook is actually arriving tomorrow, that's definitely not where I wanna be going cheap so it was nice to find a good deal on a high quality one.Southern Cassowary posted:there are livable issues - the seat is worse, the molded footrest positions are a big comfort loss compared to being able to set them yourself with a slider, storage is lacking (not as big of an issue if you're just using a bamboo pole though). Southern Cassowary posted:i think if the choice is compromise kayak or no kayak, though, i'd pick no kayak. you're going to get blown around more so any wind more than a slight breeze is going to be miserable. the difference between a 5mph wind and an 8mph wind is profound even on a big fishing kayak. if a storm rolls in and you're suddenly dealing with 20mph winds on a decent sized lake you or if you get buzzed by a recreational boater it would probably be unsafe. those things have happened to me on my bigger kayak more than once, i can not imagine regularly dealing with those issues on a 9 foot kayak. Hmm, I think I was assuming I'd be avoiding any significantly rough weather by checking forecasts but I guess poo poo happens and if I'm gonna be out all day I can't fully rely on that, I hadn't considered unexpected storms. I'm a small dude so the weigh limit shouldn't be too much of an issue, I'll have to be aware of it of course. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to just pick up a cheap longer kayak, hell in a 3 second search I pulled up a 12 footer that's being sold for $100, but as far as I can tell the only way that's happening is if I attach it to my car in ways that I cannot trust because the consequence of failure (at speed) is too great. charliebravo77 posted:I would suggest getting a 7ft medium spinning combo as a first "do everything" rod setup. The Daiwa Revros LT is available in a 2pc setup and it's a great budget combo, albeit a little above your $50 price point. This will be suitable for basically anything freshwater and even suitable for some light inshore fishing in GA/FL or wherever you end up further south (just be sure to hose it down with fresh water at the end of the day after fishing salt). https://www.tackledirect.com/daiwa-revros-lt-spinning-combos.html Appreciate the links, so, a 2 piece 7 foot rod means that each piece is 3 and a half feet or no? Like my initial instinct is "obviously, yes" but some of the pictures look like there's 3 actual parts, is that actually the case or is that just bizarre photo editing to fit the aspect ratio? Are 4 piece rods to be avoided? I like the idea of something that can shrink down and be stuck in a small bag if needed.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 19:48
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:The Japanese art of Tanago has a very specific rig. sweet! I've got my 13ft cane pole, teeny tiny split shot, and the smallest sabiki hooks I could find. time 2 microfish
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 20:47
|
|
|
Picking a kayak is subjective just like most things. Some people have no issues picking up a plastic bathtub and fishing with it without any issue in the world. Others need a little more, others need A LOT of things. Yes, in kayaks you get what you pay for. I am of the type that would prefer a spot lock trolling motor built into my mine. It fits my type of fishing and is maybe the easiest kayak experience that exists once you are in the water. For peddle, there are ton of options and at this point I would say the hobbie is the gold standard. Old town and the like aren't that far behind with a huge variety.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 21:06
|
|
|
one thing to think about with adding a seat is you're changing the center of gravity of the kayak, which is going to make it more precarious. people make their seats higher on giant 12-14 foot/36 to 40 inch wide purpose built fishing kayaks all the time, but the effect might be more significant on the smaller lifetime. one of those things that will be fine until it isn't. i have traveled with a two piece rod in a small sedan and it's really not that different from a four piece rod, you just lay it across the backseat but you've got plenty of room. hell, i take four one piece rods that are between 6'6" and 7'4" in a compact crossover. lol if you want i'd be more than happy to drag out my lifetime today and fish for a bit this afternoon and give you a trip report. it's blowing about 10-12 here right now which would be solidly fishable, but a little annoying in a bigger kayak.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 21:16
|
|
|
I find it depends on what sort of water you're fishing in. You also need to think about how you're going to store it and how easy it is to transport. I've got a 5.5m glass ski that is amazing for fishing out wide offshore but since I've got a new car I can't rooftop it because it's too long for the roof racks to properly support, and I'll need a kayak loader and a front H rack (like what tradies use to support long pipes, ladder etc) before I can transport it. It's an absolute weapon, with a side scan fishfinder, live bait tank,plenty of rod storage and a huge hatch running down the hull, but until I modify the car it just sits in the backyard. I'll probably end up selling it because I imagine the bulk of my offshore fishing will be boat based for now. I've also got a Native Watercraft Slayer 13 which I really rate (better than a Hobie imo) and it's great for big lakes and inshore fishing. It's comfortable, agile, reasonably fast and very easy to fish out of. It's not great in rough conditions compared to the ski but when you're a quick dash back to land it's fine. It fits on an old box trailer so I can get it to the water without rooftopping it. Finally, I recently found a shallow lake/deep swamp that holds monster perch, and even though I've got a kayak with all the bells and whistles I'm now in the market for a lovely cheap creek basher because anything with a rudder or pedals is going to be a nightmare in this. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 21:33
|
|
|
I also owned a slayer 13. Its a fine craft. Native makes great products. I have said it before in this thread but every kind of kayak has its strengths and its weaknesses. There is no such think as a kayak that does everything well. Southern Cassowary posted:one thing to think about with adding a seat is you're changing the center of gravity of the kayak, which is going to make it more precarious. people make their seats higher on giant 12-14 foot/36 to 40 inch wide purpose built fishing kayaks all the time, but the effect might be more significant on the smaller lifetime. one of those things that will be fine until it isn't. On the topic of travel fishing rods, the rods made today are loving fantastic. From low end to high end, multiple piece rods are better than they ever have. From your cheap ali express stuff to your megabass stuff, I have tried it all. Generally the more pieces the rod comes in, the higher end I prefer it to be. I think someone who invests in something like the Megabass Valkyrie (350$ usd) is going to have a 4 piece rod that you can travel in about any condition and have the quality of a one piece rod. It also might last you your entire life. I often travel with the trout megabass travel rods in my backpack just so I can fish anywhere on trips and it has worked out very well. I won't take a trip to the pacific northeast without one and its takes up so little backpack space.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 22:13
|
|
|
Brut posted:Appreciate the links, so, a 2 piece 7 foot rod means that each piece is 3 and a half feet or no? Like my initial instinct is "obviously, yes" but some of the pictures look like there's 3 actual parts, is that actually the case or is that just bizarre photo editing to fit the aspect ratio? A 2pc 7ft rod is two sections ~3.5ft long. The 3 parts in the photo is just showing the handle portion with the rod attached vs not. I have a 7ft ML 4 piece Fenwick Eagle travel rod that I have flown with (along with fly rods, which are often 4pc as well) and it's seemingly great for the money. https://www.purefishing.com/eagle-travel-spinning-rod-1523095 The better quality travel rods do tend to be a bit pricier than a 2pc or 1pc, though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 22:24
|
|
|
Tying your line directly to teh end of your two piece fishing rod is a good way to lose the end of the rod within seconds if you actually have to fight any kind of fish
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 22:27
|
|
|
Brut posted:Could you elaborate on this? Basically you either need 3 or more hands or some way to set stuff down or you're going to feel like you're juggling the whole time. You're pretty much always going to have either your paddle or rod in hand at all times, and both of those require 2 hands most of the time. When you're paddling, you need somewhere to put your rod that's secure but also easy to access. When you stop to fish, you need to stow your paddle. Dedicated fishing kayaks have rails and mounts to help out with this but it's still a bit of a dance. That's without even getting into storage for all your other stuff, phone, tackle, etc. If there's ANY wind where you're planning on fishing then compound these difficulties. I dunno, maybe I'm just especially needy but I have an entry level sit-in fishing kayak and I loving hate that thing. I'd rather lug my big rear end canoe. It's more fun to paddle and there's plenty of room for my poo poo. But as you pointed out, if you buy used you can probably break even when/if you sell it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 22:58
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:Tying your line directly to teh end of your two piece fishing rod is a good way to lose the end of the rod within seconds if you actually have to fight any kind of fish LOL this is absolutely something I would have learned the hard way, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 23:01
|
|
|
ihop posted:I dunno, maybe I'm just especially needy but I have an entry level sit-in fishing kayak and I loving hate that thing. I'd rather lug my big rear end canoe. It's more fun to paddle and there's plenty of room for my poo poo. But as you pointed out, if you buy used you can probably break even when/if you sell it. Yeah, I've been kayak fishing for several years now, starting with a sit on top Field & Stream model and now primarily a Nucanoe Frontier 12 and there's always some kind of new hassle I discover, though I do have things pretty dialed now. The point about juggling paddle and rod is very accurate and why both leashes and some kind of way to stow either item while the other is in use are basically mandatory. I've fished basically every type of freshwater you can, except the Great Lakes and done a little inshore saltwater fishing from the Nucanoe and it's been very good. I'm a bigger angler and weight capacity was definitely a driving factor, especially once you start doing stuff like adding a trolling motor and batteries, cooler for lunch/catch, electronics, etc. I do draw the line well before the guys running like dual 13" livescope displays and a dozen rods from a kayak, though. Just seems like a disaster waiting to happen and a solution looking for a problem. I may graduate to a real boat this year if I decide I can swing it (probably a Hog Island SW16 and a tiller drive ~30hp) but kayaks do open up a lot of otherwise hard to access water. 
charliebravo77 fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Apr 15, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 23:21
|
|
|
I've fished Lake Michigan a bit in a 16' lake kayak instead of a fishing kayak, and a paddle leash solved the issue of dropping the paddle. However, hitting some waves at the shore dropoff and slamming over them meant I lost rods, even with things that were supposed to keep them floating, and I gave up not long after that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 23:24
|
|
|
I had a Tamarack Angler 100 that I paid $300 for new from Tractor Supply and honestly it was pretty great as a cheap fishing kayak. The seat sucked and you can't really stand up in it, but for ease of moving it around it was hard to beat. I took it out on ponds and on some skinny, moving water and it was great. I now have a Crescent CK1 Venture 11' and an Old Town Autopilot 120 12' and I miss the ease of throwing the < 50 pound 10 footer in the bed of the truck and just going. All kayaks suck in the wind, and anchors are a pain in the rear end. Get/make a stake-out pole and/or some sort of clamp/rope setup to help hold you in place while you fish, assuming we're not talking about trying to fish open water.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 23:29
|
|
|
how do you like the nucanoe? been eyeballing an unlimited.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 23:30
|
|
|
Southern Cassowary posted:how do you like the nucanoe? been eyeballing an unlimited. It's been great. I am near 300 pounds, or occasionally over, and it's rock solid. I have only ever flipped it when I was loving with trying to mount a 2.5hp outboard while on the boat next to the dock. I have given up on that idea (should get around to selling the motor) in favor of a trolling motor and lithium battery. Lighter package, cleaner and quiet. I can stand up and cast a fly rod on it, while floating down a river without issue. I've taken it out around Largo Sound, the Indian River and Charlotte Harbor in FL as well as a bunch of rivers and lakes in Illinois and Wisconsin. My only complaint with the F12, and maybe my particular version, is the floor is a bit flexy, though not enough for me to have bothered to throw more foam blocks inside the hull yet. It isn't the fastest thing to paddle but the trade off is capacity and stability. I've loaded it up for an overnight river camping trip and didn't have any issues at all. It's a pain to transport too, I guess. But it's doable. I can get it on the roof of my truck solo after some practice now, but a trailer would be nice.  I have half a mind to get a Hobie pedal drive because I do a lot of cycling so I bet I could go all day without issue and it'd free up my hands a bit to fish, but they are really spendy. At that point I might just put the money towards the aforementioned real boat. charliebravo77 fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Apr 15, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2024 23:37
|
|
|
Southern Cassowary posted:one thing to think about with adding a seat is you're changing the center of gravity of the kayak, which is going to make it more precarious. people make their seats higher on giant 12-14 foot/36 to 40 inch wide purpose built fishing kayaks all the time, but the effect might be more significant on the smaller lifetime. one of those things that will be fine until it isn't. Yeah, I think this seat is low enough that it shouldn't be a big deal but there's really only one way to find out how it feels, if it seems significantly less stable I'll have to come up with something else, but maybe I won't even find sitting on the plastic that bad  .I'm not worried about keeping the rod in the car, like I mentioned the kayak is gonna go inside the car so anything long can just lay next to it, but depending on where I am I might have some walking between the car and the water with kayak in hand, though I guess if it's just one rod it shouldn't be that hard to figure out some way to strap it to myself as I'm walking. wesleywillis posted:Tying your line directly to teh end of your two piece fishing rod is a good way to lose the end of the rod within seconds if you actually have to fight any kind of fish Yeah here we go! This is the kind of poo poo I assumed could go wrong, basically what I had in mind with "if I have to cut the line I'm hosed" except at the time I was thinking of losing the entire rod, I suppose practically speaking losing 1 piece of the rod might as well be losing the entire rod anyway. Alright, I have been convinced to use a reel, I guess I can still fish directly with that super cheap bamboo rod, could just do both. Frankly as silly as it has been to look at all these kayaks with the renames and duplicate models and imports, what has actually been more difficult is figuring out cold weather clothing, since as of today the water where I wanna go first is 45 degrees (warming up though!), I need to make sure I'm well prepared if I fall. On that note, what do ya'll do with your PFD if you need to take layers on/off? I see lots of people mention doing that but nobody ever demonstrates because, you know, everyone knows how to put a shirt on, but it means I don't get to see what happens with the PFD.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2024 04:28
|
|
|
i've got leg room or crate space to hold it if i'm taking off or putting on a jacket/rain gear so i've never thought about it. i'll usually paddle closer to shore rather than doing it in open water also.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2024 04:37
|
|
|
Brut posted:Frankly as silly as it has been to look at all these kayaks with the renames and duplicate models and imports, what has actually been more difficult is figuring out cold weather clothing, since as of today the water where I wanna go first is 45 degrees (warming up though!), I need to make sure I'm well prepared if I fall. I have bad news for you on the budget front here. Cold water paddling is A) extremely dangerous if you are ill equipped and B) not cheap to get equipped for. Bare minimum I would suggest for 45F water is a full wetsuit with hood, booties and gloves: https://www.nrs.com/nrs-mens-radiant-43mm-wetsuit/pcx8. Better would be a dry suit if the air temps are also low: https://www.nrs.com/nrs-mens-explorer-semi-dry-suit/pmed You also should be wearing your PFD with either option. Give this a read: https://paddleboston.com/resources-section/how-to-guides/dress-cold-water-paddling/ edit - and this https://paddling.com/learn/paddlers-guide-to-cold-water-gear charliebravo77 fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Apr 16, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2024 19:01
|
|
|
charliebravo77 posted:I have bad news for you on the budget front here. Cold water paddling is A) extremely dangerous if you are ill equipped and B) not cheap to get equipped for. Bare minimum I would suggest for 45F water is a full wetsuit with hood, booties and gloves: https://www.nrs.com/nrs-mens-radiant-43mm-wetsuit/pcx8. Better would be a dry suit if the air temps are also low: https://www.nrs.com/nrs-mens-explorer-semi-dry-suit/pmed It's straight up difficult to do. I've fished and paddled Isle Royale when Superior was 35F in july, as well as mid-May boundary waters when the ice had just come off. I wore wetsuits with boots and gloves each time but it gets really hot if the air temperature is warm and I was chugging water nonstop. I chose to gamble that the surface water of the huge lakes I was on was clean enough and just kept dipping my nalgene to drink more (and honestly it tasted great, even though that was kind of dumb). If conditions are absolutely perfect you can get away with not wearing one but you really, really need to know what you're doing or be real close to shore and have someone with you for rescue. The shock of hitting water that cold is enough to stun you, especially if you're not going in on purpose.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2024 19:13
|
|
|
Yeah, I have a farmer john wetsuit and a neoprene jacket for spring paddling and have thought about getting a dry suit to give lake trout fishing a try on Lake Michigan but never got around to it. I have rolled in some pretty cold water before and was only mildly prepared for it. I was wearing wool layers and a PFD but fortunately it was in a shallow area that I could stand in. After that incident I got the farmer john.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2024 19:21
|
|
|
You could always just do what the vast majority of the rest of us do and shore fish until water temps get high enough to not have to worry about dying from hypothermia if you fall in. If the fishing bug bites hard enough, you’ll have time and more experience to help guide your niche fishing needs purchases.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2024 21:40
|
|
|
dry suits are really nice for hot air cold water conditions because you can just get in the water to cool off and get out and still be dry inside, you dont get wet and clammy like a wetsuit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2024 01:12
|
|
|
Hekk posted:You could always just do what the vast majority of the rest of us do and shore fish until water temps get high enough to not have to worry about dying from hypothermia if you fall in. This. Don't be stupid taking out a lovely kayak in water that's cold enough to kill you in short order it's not worth it, just fish from shore there's no shame in it. We have a boat and two paddle boards and we still fish from shore a lot because it's fun and easy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2024 03:46
|
|
|
Solution: Move to SoCal
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2024 06:08
|
|
|
charliebravo77 posted:I have bad news for you on the budget front here. Cold water paddling is A) extremely dangerous if you are ill equipped and B) not cheap to get equipped for. Bare minimum I would suggest for 45F water is a full wetsuit with hood, booties and gloves: https://www.nrs.com/nrs-mens-radiant-43mm-wetsuit/pcx8. Better would be a dry suit if the air temps are also low: https://www.nrs.com/nrs-mens-explorer-semi-dry-suit/pmed I have good news for you, I don't want to die! I didn't bother listing it out the way I did with the kayak derail but the last month has also been spent looking at cold weather stuff in a similar level of detail, I think the most concise thing I've found was actually this set of pictures:    While there is a lot of info out there in various forms, the one thing I noticed is that nobody mentions specific temperatures, it would've been nice to see someone go like, for 40f water and 55f air I wear this, for 45f water and 65f air I wear this, etc kind of thing, some specific examples, so thank you for doing exactly that just now, love it! I think a drysuit (or even just a drytop) is not happening right now both because it seems like a pretty big pain to wear and for price reasons (I mean, unless something really affordable falls in my lap, I have been looking at marketplace a bit but there's not too much around, and what's there is for much larger people) And yeah of course I'll be wearing my PFD, that's why I was trying to figure out if there's some special method/technique to maximize the time it is on you while you are changing clothes, but it sounds like it's just "put it down and be careful, maybe be close to shore". trevorreznik posted:It's straight up difficult to do. I've fished and paddled Isle Royale when Superior was 35F in july, as well as mid-May boundary waters when the ice had just come off. I wore wetsuits with boots and gloves each time but it gets really hot if the air temperature is warm and I was chugging water nonstop. I chose to gamble that the surface water of the huge lakes I was on was clean enough and just kept dipping my nalgene to drink more (and honestly it tasted great, even though that was kind of dumb).  charliebravo77 posted:Yeah, I have a farmer john wetsuit and a neoprene jacket for spring paddling and have thought about getting a dry suit to give lake trout fishing a try on Lake Michigan but never got around to it. I have rolled in some pretty cold water before and was only mildly prepared for it. I was wearing wool layers and a PFD but fortunately it was in a shallow area that I could stand in. After that incident I got the farmer john. While the water temperature is 45 (or "44-48") right now, I'm thinking by the time I'm fully set up and ready to go it should be a few degrees warmer. Also if it helps this first lake is about half a mile across at it's widest point and has a 20hp motor limit for boats, I don't know if that sounds it a bit safer than what might come to mind when I say lake. Hekk posted:You could always just do what the vast majority of the rest of us do and shore fish until water temps get high enough to not have to worry about dying from hypothermia if you fall in. As I mentioned fishing is not the primary motivator for me, it's just a mix of something to do while I'm already out there, and hopefully eventually would contribute to being able to stay out longer by eating what I catch. It is likely that my first time out I won't even have any fishing stuff at all (maybe that cheap $5 walmart bamboo thing) since I want most of my attention to be on getting used to the water. It seems like Darn Tough Socks are great wool socks so I'm gonna order a pair or two, but I think if I want equivalent wool full outfit it's gonna cost me around a hundred bucks if not more, so it might end up being better to go with some wet suit with some cheap synthetic bullshit on top of it as needed, but I'd still need to find an affordable one of those. joem83 posted:Solution: Move to SoCal Edit: Eh wait a minute charliebravo77 posted:Better would be a dry suit if the air temps are also low meowmeowmeowmeow posted:dry suits are really nice for hot air cold water conditions because you can just get in the water to cool off and get out and still be dry inside, you dont get wet and clammy like a wetsuit. Brut fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Apr 17, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2024 07:36
|
|
|
I'm coming at it from a kayaking/rafting perspective, but imo a drysuit is more the overall better cold weather immersion gear than a wetsuit vs what you wear when it gets really cold. Its more of a comfort/quality of live difference than a fundamental warmth difference, a really thick wetsuit can be as warm as a drysuit but will be way less comfortable and mobile. The suit itself is very thin (rain jacket material) and doesn't offer really any warmth by itself, you layer like normal under the drysuit so its very flexible. In the winter I'll have tights, fleece pants, base layer, mid layer, and a micro puff jacket under my drysuit, if the water is cold in the summer I'll just have light baselayers or even shorts and a long sleeve t shirt on. Wetsuits are thick neoprene so they insulate directly, but the insulation comes at the cost of less range of motion and more resistance to moving. They also are harder (imo) to layer under, so you kinda have to choose how warm of a suit you want when you buy it. The big upside of wetsuits is they are wayyy cheaper and wayyy more durable, drysuits eventually turn into damp suits with use and age while a wetsuit has a much longer life and is way more wear resistant. Again, this is all from the perspective of whitewater kayaking or rafting where I'm going to be getting really wet the entire time and want to be as comfortable as possible doing it. For lake or maybe sea kayaking where getting wet isn't the plan, a farmer john wetsuit and fleece shits with a splash jacket on top should do you pretty good as long as the waters in the 50s or above and you can get out of the water to warm up if you flip. Thats typically what we'd put customers in for late-spring/summer whitewater rafting trips and as long as they didnt spend too long in the water if they fell out it was enough insulation to keep them happy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2024 14:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 30, 2024 08:02 |
|
|
There's no point investing in base layers as some in between because you don't want a dry suit. They won't do anything if you go in the drink. The "basic gear" list is for getting hit with spray, or getting a bit wet getting into the boat. I don't own a wet or dry suit and I do a little bit of cold water paddling each year. I have a dry bag with a full change of clothes in case something happens but my change of clothes can only save me if by some freak accident I flip over in calm water or just fall in at shore. Frankly, if it's bad enough that I go into the water I'm probably not making it out. I only take this risk because I have spent literally hundreds of days in my canoe and have a pretty intimate knowledge of my limits with it. If you want to skimp on safety gear, buy a cheap recreational kayak and go straight to hypothermic waters you have a death wish, knowingly or not. Wait til June and plan for next year when you know what you're getting into I get you're not going to lake Superior or something, and maybe you'd take a lot of the right precautions regarding weather conditions as well.. but I just wouldn't do it as someone unfamiliar with their craft let alone new to the sport. Math You fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Apr 17, 2024 |
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2024 14:12
|
|
