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dema
Aug 13, 2006

I've been using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Y8DF for mid ride stops where the bike might be out of sight for a few minute or two. Or otherwise not right at hand.

Feel like it should help with crimes of opportunity and it's not particularly noticeable in the jersey pocket.

And gravel bikes are great for commuting.

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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

My go-to for the "have to leave my nice bike outside for a second" (but can see it the entire time)

https://www.rei.com/product/163265/abus-bordo-lite-6055-folding-lock

I have a Kryptonite super whatever U lock for the commuter/beater bikes

charliebravo77
Jun 11, 2003

dema posted:

I've been using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Y8DF for mid ride stops where the bike might be out of sight for a few minute or two. Or otherwise not right at hand.

Feel like it should help with crimes of opportunity and it's not particularly noticeable in the jersey pocket.

And gravel bikes are great for commuting.

code:
This is the Lockpicking Lawyer...... / This is a Master Lock 719D, you can open it with ___________
It'll probably deter/stop someone who didn't plan on stealing a bike but decided they might try to, but anyone casing the streets for one is going to get right through that.

That Abus linked above probably has a slightly better lock core, at least.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

When I still commuted to work by bike, I had a sturdy U lock I just left in the obscure corner of a parking garage.

For the rest of the time I had a "kuat bottle lock" which is discontinued, but this appears to be the same thing with different branding

https://lectricebikes.com/products/bottle-shaped-lock

That was fine for like, running in to 7-11 or whatever for 5 minutes, but I wouldn't trust it for more than 15 minutes as it's a cheap thin 2.5 or 3mm steel wire

dema
Aug 13, 2006

charliebravo77 posted:

but anyone casing the streets for one is going to get right through that.

dema posted:

Feel like it should help with crimes of opportunity

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
My bike was only stolen once and it was by the police, who sold it back to me. Great fundraising racket, just go cut every lock an the university, then laugh when the owner says it wasn't abandoned and they were "in class". Nope, it was abandoned for one full hour, pay us now.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 5 hours!
anyone had a surly disc trucker? i want something with mountain bike gearing cause i live in the norcal foothills and am a fatty fatty two by four, and experience has shown me that 1:1 gear ratios do not cut it. maybe i'm a grumpy old man but i like having a front triple with a tiny small ring, even as gigantic as rear gearsets have gotten

ultimately i almost certainly need to just fuckin ride the bikes i have, but you know how it is

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

Cactus Ghost posted:

anyone had a surly disc trucker? i want something with mountain bike gearing cause i live in the norcal foothills and am a fatty fatty two by four, and experience has shown me that 1:1 gear ratios do not cut it. maybe i'm a grumpy old man but i like having a front triple with a tiny small ring, even as gigantic as rear gearsets have gotten

ultimately i almost certainly need to just fuckin ride the bikes i have, but you know how it is

What's your current bikes? Maybe you can swap in a new crank or chainring.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 5 hours!
oh also, wrt personal experience with bike theft: don't lock your bike up with a cable lock around a parking meter while drunk, and even if its stored in a garage in a nice neighborhood, lock it to something embedded in the concrete

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 5 hours!

Salt Fish posted:

What's your current bikes? Maybe you can swap in a new crank or chainring.

this might be a dumb question, but are mountain and road cranks interchangable?

tildes
Nov 16, 2018
Whoever was looking for a place to ride in San Diego, I was looking for this as well, and what I found was this 24 mile route which stops by the convention center: https://www.sandiego.org/articles/biking/bike-route-bayshore-bikeway.aspx

I didn't end up doing it myself, but curious if you try it what you think, or if you find something else since it seems like I keep ending up going back to that convention center. It sort of looked like mountain biking might be the move, but without a car it was a bit too much of a hassle to get places.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Or just buy one of these 30t to 11-52t sram eagle with drop bars:

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF

Salt Fish posted:

Or just buy one of these 30t to 11-52t sram eagle with drop bars:



That's a nice lookin bike

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Salt Fish posted:

My bike was only stolen once and it was by the police, who sold it back to me. Great fundraising racket, just go cut every lock an the university, then laugh when the owner says it wasn't abandoned and they were "in class". Nope, it was abandoned for one full hour, pay us now.

ACAB

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Cactus Ghost posted:

this might be a dumb question, but are mountain and road cranks interchangable?

Not in most cases. An mtb bottom bracket is typically 73mm in width for a threaded shell, and equivalent effective width in a non threaded format, or even wider. Road bottom brackets are 68mm wide or equivalent. The basic compatibility difference then is that mtb crank spindles are generally longer, with the chainrings further out from the center plane of the bike as a result. The chain will tend to become straight fore-aft on higher gears of the cassette, which may have minor wear consequences for your drivetrain. More practically, your road front derailleur might not have the swing to move over to the extreme position of the mtb chainrings.

My touring bike runs a road triple with 74 BCD on the inner ring, and I use the smallest possible ring: 24t.
On the back, I run a 11-36t 10spd mtb cassette, actuated using a 9spd Shimano mtb derailleur and 10apd Shimano road shifters. 24x36t is manageable with a loaded bike (75lbs) when I'm riding a small bit every day (~6mi of flat commuting). This would be equivalent to a modern mtb gearing of 32x48, so maybe next to easiest gear on a 12spd cassette (but of course you'd suffer on the top end, spinning out sooner).

My friend's bike does use a 73mm mtb triple with 22/33/44 chainrings along with a match FD. That would eke out a bit more ratio for you against a road cassette.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire

Heliosicle posted:

Do you swap between a 10-44 and 10-36 cassette? If so its normal that you need to adjust the b-gap on the derailleur. If they're the same cassette though that's bad luck with the hubs I guess, I've not had any issues with my 2 sets of wheels with different hub manufacturers.


My plan was to have a 10-36 on my road and cx wheels and then 10-44 for gravel but it doesn't really work. With the 10-36 the b limit is way far out and then if i adjust it closer the RD moves forward enough to make the chain go slack in the 10t. Yes the chain is the right length, plus making it shorter will move the b limit even farther away. So anyway now I just have the one 10-44 cassette.

The one set of rotors is so much farther out i basically run out of adjustment on the front caliper, so what i'll probably do is try different ones vs putting in spacers.

Pepe Arnold
Mar 9, 2024
I bought a Specialized Diverge last year as my first road/gravel cycling bike - I don't come from a biking background whatsoever but after running a marathon and wanted to put a tri of some sort in the calendar.

I took a shot and bought it in a size 58 based off of my height and it seems to be pretty comfortable, I didn't have any real aches or pains beyond just generally being not super familiar/adjusted with the riding position. Ended up going about 11 miles and felt good.

Today I installed the Rib Cage II I bought from Specialized but it seems pretty tight with the bottle inserted, I almost can't imagine pulling out the water bottle when riding.

Anyway, super fun being back on a bike. Going to try to go back out this weekend weather permitting (North of Boston)

I am hesitant to get clipless pedals at this point but I guess I should pretty much just do it if I even want to do a sprint tri? Any recommendations? I have seen there are some hybrid ones that are flat one side and have clipless thing on the other side. Any other suggestions?


Pepe Arnold fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Apr 17, 2024

corona familiar
Aug 13, 2021

hybrid pedals are nice if you want the capability to ride the bike with normal shoes (eg for a bike that you use for fun and errands or one you might let a friend borrow)

I have the Shimano SPD hybrid pedals and they're fine https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/alivio-m3100/PD-M324.html

but I might move to assioma power meter pedals at some point once I get a dedicated training/sport bike

corona familiar fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Apr 17, 2024

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I'm so biased but I would recommend trying out flat pedals with giant pins in them first. Clipless systems lock you into one position. They have the goal of making a stable repeatable ergonomic setup. For a rider in the experimental stages of fit and form that could be detrimental. I assume if you're racing that you'll get a professional fitting and that's where the science of cleat placement and angles makes the most sense to me.

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 2 hours!
I switched from SPD clipless to Race Face Chester flat (pinned) pedals and I am happy with them.

meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.
e: nm

The Fool
Oct 16, 2003


I'm rocking the deity deftap pedals and the best thing is the color options.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
For side-loading bottle cages, Lezyne Flow SL have done well for me.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

vikingstrike posted:

Ask other parents at school who kids are a bit older and out growing stuff. Aren’t you in Colorado? We probably have 10-15 woom bikes every day at the bike racks, lots of options. And if you aren’t attached to Woom, lots of kids bikes in general as kids grow. We have a woom2 in the garage I think but it needs tubes. Not sure what size you’re looking for

BJC bike swap last weekend probably had some really good deals too.

Yup, I'm in Denver and looking for a Woom 1. I'll get my wife to ask her friends.

Chillyrabbit
Oct 24, 2012

The only sword wielding rabbit on the internet



Ultra Carp
Looking at getting a Specialized diverge e5 base for my first dropbar road/gravel bike. Convince me I shouldn't spend an extra $900 on the specialized diverge e5 elite, for the hydraulic brakes and grx gearset. Tell me I'm being ridiculous and that the claris gearset and mechanical brakes are good enough for me and that I'm just keeping up with the joneses going that extra step up.

Shadowhand00
Jan 23, 2006

Golden Bear is ever watching; day by day he prowls, and when he hears the tread of lowly Stanfurd red,from his Lair he fiercely growls.
Toilet Rascal

Chillyrabbit posted:

Looking at getting a Specialized diverge e5 base for my first dropbar road/gravel bike. Convince me I shouldn't spend an extra $900 on the specialized diverge e5 elite, for the hydraulic brakes and grx gearset. Tell me I'm being ridiculous and that the claris gearset and mechanical brakes are good enough for me and that I'm just keeping up with the joneses going that extra step up.

Hydraulic brakes will feel better overall. Mechanical disc brakes are funky and require a bit more fidgety setup. Additionally lowest level of grx will be much nicer than Claris. I think I had the same argument with a friend looking at the same bikes and after riding around the diverge e5 elite after building it up for him it would be no contest.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

Am I a... bad person?
AM I??




Fun Shoe
Counterpoint: while hydraulic brakes are objectively nicer, they're not necessarily $900 nicer. Mechanical brakes get the job done, and except for a few use cases involving some extreme riding (like really high speed riding and long, steep descents), you'll be fine with the cheaper brakes.

GRX is probably better than Claris, though that's not a high bar. Claris is decent, but it's entry-level. Even my cheap-ish Contend AR 3 came with Sora, which is a step up.

I say, if you have the cash, get what you want. If swinging that extra $900 is an issue, then get the less expensive model and ride the wheels off of it. You'll have a ton of fun, and the only people who will judge you are the kind of snobs you probably don't want to impress anyway.

I'd personally rather spend the $900 on accessories, or not at all, but I'm cheap.

Chillyrabbit
Oct 24, 2012

The only sword wielding rabbit on the internet



Ultra Carp
Damnit :tizzy: $900 isn't a breakpoint for me I think. I'm pricing it out in CAD so it's between $1699 vs $2599 and my wifes employer has a health spending account that pays for "wellness" which covers bikes just it's the difference between free bike vs paying for some of it.

I have hydraulic brakes on my kona dew so I know they're nice but wasn't sure if it's worth it for a road/gravel bike, for that much more plus grx gears but how noticeable are nicer gears from the Claris?

Any other bikes I should be considering in that price range? In USD the diverge vs elite is $1300-2000

Chillyrabbit fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Apr 18, 2024

HAIL eSATA-n
Apr 7, 2007


You should spend an extra $900 on the specialized diverge e5 elite, for the hydraulic brakes and grx gearset (and better tires, and better colors)

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

a $1700 claris bike sounds like a bad value to me. $2600 for grx hydro is fine if all the other parts are nice too

Hutzpah
Nov 6, 2009
Fun Shoe

tildes posted:

Whoever was looking for a place to ride in San Diego, I was looking for this as well, and what I found was this 24 mile route which stops by the convention center: https://www.sandiego.org/articles/biking/bike-route-bayshore-bikeway.aspx

I didn't end up doing it myself, but curious if you try it what you think, or if you find something else since it seems like I keep ending up going back to that convention center. It sort of looked like mountain biking might be the move, but without a car it was a bit too much of a hassle to get places.

This looks pretty chill. I could rent a cheap cruiser and spend a couple of hours doing this in my regular clothes. Thanks for sharing!

The other ride looked a little more serious. I'd probably bring my pedals/shoes/road kit and rent a real road bike if I go that route. Time to figure out how much of this conference I actually need to attend...

Coxswain Balls
Jun 4, 2001

Chillyrabbit posted:

I have hydraulic brakes on my kona dew so I know they're nice but wasn't sure if it's worth it for a road/gravel bike, for that much more plus grx gears but how noticeable are nicer gears from the Claris?

Option 3: turn your Dew into a drop bar cross bike.



(Admittedly I had a bunch of spare parts kicking around)

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

(tiagra-haver voice) I have tiagra brakes

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I started getting this ammonia smell in my nostrils right after finishing a ride. It seems to happen only if I ride about 2.5 hours+ which I'm doing three times a week. Apparently its from burning protein for energy, which makes sense because I always ride with no calories. Basically wake up, two cups of coffee, work for 5 hours (don't hate) and then ride for 3 hours, back to work for a few hours as needed.

Yesterday I tried eating a banana, 2 tablespoons of peanut butter and an avocado (this is just what I had in my kitchen) before riding, then added in a protein bar (20 grams proteins, 29 grams of carbs including 17g of added sugars) at the 2 hour mark. I'm drinking 48oz of water on the ride which is probably a bit under what I need, but its only 60 degrees out.

I eat very low carb, high protein but drat, I never had this before. It lasts maybe 20 minutes after the ride, totally gone once I'm done showering and changing. Anyone else get this? I'm trying to figure out how much carbs I have to add to balance everything out. I was really surprised that 29 grams of carbs wasn't enough, but maybe I need to preload at night with some oatmeal or something?

corona familiar
Aug 13, 2021

sounds like ketosis?

others have mentioned 60-90g of carbs per hour of riding hard. if you want to avoid ketosis maybe try increasing your carbs?

Cat Ass Trophy
Jul 24, 2007
I can do twice the work in half the time

Chillyrabbit posted:

Looking at getting a Specialized diverge e5 base for my first dropbar road/gravel bike. Convince me I shouldn't spend an extra $900 on the specialized diverge e5 elite, for the hydraulic brakes and grx gearset. Tell me I'm being ridiculous and that the claris gearset and mechanical brakes are good enough for me and that I'm just keeping up with the joneses going that extra step up.

If you plan on doing any off road, I'd really consider spending the extra $900 for the e5 elite, but see the last line I wrote. Per the Specialized website there is a $500 difference in price.

Claris is a perfectly good entry level ROAD group but it has a couple of things going against it when it come to gravel riding. First, it is only 8 speed, and the gearing is really not set up for gravel. You have a 50/34 crank paired with an 11/34 cassette for a 1:1 low gear. The e5 Elite will give you a 46/30 paired with an 11/36 giving you a sub 1:1 ratio. And second, Claris just does not hold up in rough abusive conditions. That is just my opinion based on what I have seen. All of the bouncing around on gravel just vibrates every bit of your bike, and that means wear. The crankset is also kind of a brick and soft.

The non Shimano parts are also not really suited for intense off road. The tektro cable brakes are fine for on the street of easy trails, but there is now way I would trust them on something even mildly steep and technical. The modulation you get out of a hydraulic system is an absolute requirement for me. And Sunrace is just plain garbage. The cogs are never straight and they are just too soft. Any bit of grit will chew them apart.

Both bikes have the same frame, fork, wheels and cockpit. So if you do decide to go with the e5 Base and the parts wear out quick, you can get a GRX 400 level group and upgrade it yourself, probably for less than the $900 difference in the price of the two bikes.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
60 to 90 grams an hour?? That's an entire french baguette per ride.

corona familiar
Aug 13, 2021

Salt Fish posted:

60 to 90 grams an hour?? That's an entire french baguette per ride.

https://www.trainerroad.com/blog/cycling-nutrition-everything-you-need-to-know/

:shrug: it does seem like a lot but a 3 hour ride is probably 1400-2000 kcal of effort (https://captaincalculator.com/health/calorie/calories-burned-cycling-calculator/)

I take less on shorter rides but if it's longer than 2 hours I bring two gels an hour over 2 hours and a bottle of drink mix and that seems to do fine

if you're riding for longer you might also want to bring some faster digesting carbs like gels, some kind of carb mix, candy, or fruit. I've read bread and whole grains are fine for before a ride but during you don't want to be waiting on your digestive system

corona familiar fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Apr 18, 2024

HAIL eSATA-n
Apr 7, 2007


Salt Fish posted:

60 to 90 grams an hour?? That's an entire french baguette per ride.

Hell yeah it is :getin:

You're supposed to eat, at the low end, 1g carb/KG body weight/per hour. At the high end it's whatever your gut can handle

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Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 2 hours!
That was the worst part of riding long distance when I started, the amount of food you've got to shovel down goes beyond satisfying into unpleasant.

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