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Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
I ride primarily solo but the roads here are boring and I miss my friends.

Dangerllama posted:

I ride solo but give every other cyclist I see a ridiculously enthusiastic wave.

Still definitely do this though.

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Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

Vando posted:

Look, I'm not here to be a dick for the sake of it but it would be nice if we had something more than a wall of text in nonstop "summer camp activity leader" tone. Would it help if I threw together some expansions with pictures/video? I don't mind doing the work, I just think this is a bit of a missed opportunity for getting people into cycling with the new forum etc.

Although now that I think of it, maybe that could be a thread all of its own, sort of a beginners intro to cycling deal? Might head off some of the repeated questions that always crop up.

I'm not getting the tone you're describing from the post, and find it to be matter of fact and helpful. It was really useful for me last summer when I first got into road bikes, and the mildly updated version for the new thread still seems fine. It's a forum post, not an interactive experience, so I don't care that it's mostly text. I don't find it difficult or cumbersome to have to read it. Videos and whatnot might improve it, but I don't think that the lack makes it bad.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
Right before going on my day-off ride, I got called to cover a half shift for someone who's sick (food poisoning, not COVID). No problem, I thought, I can turn my long day into a pace day and probably be fine on time and exercise, I make extra money and everyone's happy.

One missed turn later suddenly I'm punishing myself to hold 20mph as long as possible to not miss the shift I promised to cover. Then 19 as long as I could, because 20 wasn't happening. Then 18, to 17, to 16. Then home.

Ending odometer knew how I felt:


Got a brutal workout in, made the shift, got a handful of thank you cash and some free beer. Pretty OK with it all in hindsight, but I'm still going to be glad once I'm no longer first call to cover starting next month.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

Feels Villeneuve posted:

It was a reaction to the 2000/early 2010s thing of bike companies cramming every spot on their bike possible with logos or swooping lines. Like with many backlash trends, it was neat at the start but now looks generic.

The current look seems to be either that or the "billboard" look where the entire bike is a solid color and is completely devoid of detailing, writing, or even the model name, with the exception of a massive brand decal on the downtube. The Trek Madone is the king of this look and I hate it.



Basically make bikes look like this again



I might be the only one, but I absolutely love this obnoxious nonsense:

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
Here's an older model Orbea Terra m30 with 2x, though I've got to admit the site feels sketchy to me: https://www.bikebling.com/Orbea-TERRA-M30-D-Bike-p/orbea19-terra-m30-d.htm?Click=120514&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine

If you decide to open up to 1x, there's similarly priced 2020 models on a swiss site as well.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
This post, now in the correct thread:
This old Quintana Roo popped up on facebook, and I can't help but admire those bars. No listed size, but it's listed as having 650 wheels and being "too small" for the current owner to . It looks to me like it's a 650 front 700 rear from the picture. I really don't need to throw $250 at an old TT bike that probably doesn't fit me, but a part of me certainly wants to.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

e.pilot posted:

I was going to wait until this was a bit more finalized to post but it’s moving a bit faster than I expected and there’s a minimum order of 10 so trying to get as much interest as I can.

I’m putting together a stupid jersey, cost should be $25+ shipping. It’s through a china kit company called Racmmer I have a few jerseys from, they’re real nice even by normal jersey standards let alone chinakit.







I’ll put together a google form for sizes once the design is finalized and the order is ready to go, but I wanted to see if there was any interest now to get the ball rolling

My wife wants one if she can get a women's cut one.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
The logos on back look has me wanting one as well, but I've got to admit that "standard sizing" does not help me much. I own everything from a S to a L across different brands (and eras). My best fitting jersey is a modern Morvelo M, though it could honestly be a touch tighter in the body, but not the arms. I have an sick 80's reebok jersey that fits perfectly, but the tags are too faded to tell what size it ever was.

E: 5'9", 155 lbs

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

e.pilot posted:

You’re right fixing a hybrid is worth it because the best way to fix a hybrid is by throwing it in the trash and getting a gravel bike

Nah, this is some elitist bullshit that keeps people off bikes, and even gets people to stop riding. Not everyone can afford to just throw stuff away when it breaks and go buy another one. Even if it's "not worth it" in terms of the overall resale value of the bike, it's absolutely worth it in the value it adds to a person's life if spending $50 or $100 on fixing a $200 bike keeps someone riding, instead of not being able to afford $500+ for a different bike taking them off the road.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

bicievino posted:

For posters reading this many years from now when this pandemic is over:
Man, how many $200 hybrids have you seen that can be fixed with only $50 or $100 of work? I feel like the only way fixing a hybrid makes sense is for folks who have access to a co-op or other cheaper-than-normal option, and even then it's going to be an uphill battle.

For posters in a pandemic:
Obviously do not throw out a functional bike rn. It is impossible to buy a bike, so even if it takes more than you paid for the whole bike, it's worth repairing it.

I have an old low-end trek 26er that I've been told on these forums is "basically disposable" and advised not to fix or upgrade, and it's even a step above your average cheap hybrid. That's why I took e.pilot's post to be serious. But I've absolutely kept replacing chains and freewheels, re-packing bearings, taking apart and cleaning stuff, etc. anyway. The only things cost me more than $50 have been tools I couldn't borrow. Granted, I have a rigid fork bike from a reputable brand, but a lot of those things hold true for cheaper bikes too, especially when the "fix" needed is just a deep cleaning or new bearings. Breaking something major on any bike is going to expensive (I grant it's more likely to happen on a cheapo bike), the difference is just how that cost relates to the overall value of the bike.

I think a better way to talk about hybrid bikes is to say that the low end department store bikes are often poorly made and prone to break, so don't buy one unless it's absolutely your only option. If someone has one and it breaks, I think it's more productive to send someone to a Sheldon Brown page or link a Calvin Jones video than it is to tell them to throw it out (jokingly or not). The cost of having a shop fix it might be more than the cost of replacing it, but learning to do it yourself might not be, and I think it's more productive advice that's more likely to get and keep people biking.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

kimbo305 posted:

Would anyone be interested if there were women's cuts options? I can volunteer to try to set up a similar group order if 1) there's interest 2) I can get an Aliexpress vendor to do the women's custom design.

My wife's interested in a jersey and bibs.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
Those size measurements have me all kinds of unsure. My actual chest measures 38", so 98 cm would be just tight to the tiniest bit loose. On one chart that's a S and on another that's a M. I'm tempted to get a S and say it'll either be about like all my other stuff fits or skin tight, either of which I'm okay with. For the bibs I'm probably going with M since that what I am in old Pearl Izumi P.R.O. In-R-Cool stuff. My only worry there is the thighs stretching enough. The M measures 14.5" around and my quad's about 21" and that seems like a lot of stretch to ask. I'm almost certainly overthinking it and should just get mediums.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
@actionjackson I had a very similar problem, one foot bigger than the other and pain into numbness on the ball of my pinky toe on the bigger foot. One thing I'd mention right away is that if you normally wear insoles or need arch support in your regular shoes, it's likely you should have them in your cycling shoes. That alone may take care of it. Second, I'd caution against raising your saddle height a bunch. You don't want to have your leg go really straight at the bottom of your pedal stroke, for your joint's sake. More importantly, to make it work, you may start "reaching" with your toes at the bottom of your stroke to make up for the excessive distance, leading to foot pain. At least, that's how it was for me. Keeping your cleats back with make it harder for this to hurt you as badly.

I'd recommend moving your saddle back to its original position (or near to it) and then trying just focusing on feeling like you're keeping your heel down while you pedal and seeing if that makes a difference. You won't actually be heel down through your stroke, but it'll keep you from reaching and may alleviate the numbness. If it does, you probably want to keep a lower saddle height and keep your cleats back on your shoes.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

actionjackson posted:

hey thanks for the posts. At my lbs's bike fits aren't currently available due to covid. I am going to get a pair of the bontrager insoles, probably the red ones as my arches aren't particularly high but I sent them an email.

I looked at my current insoles and I'm not noticing any additional wear at the toes, but the shoes are relatively new and I don't ride a ton so I think that's probably the more likely explanation.

I will say that if your feet are significantly different in the arch area, the G8 2620 insole is pretty great, but expensive. It lets you change the height and position of the arch support on each foot, which was a big deal for me. The downside (beside cost) is that even the lowest arch insert is pretty high. If you get along fine with regular inserts in your non-bike shoes, they might be overkill.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

actionjackson posted:

If it matters, insoles in regular shoes for me are just to add some extra thickness for comfort, I wasn't having any toe numbness.

Ah, I have insoles all around because I have high arches and I run into issues with knee pain if I don't have good support. It's probably not nearly as big of a deal for you, and I don't know that it'll do much for you on the bike then. Can't hurt to try if the money isn't an issue though.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

kimbo305 posted:

Oh -- women's jersey update -- finally one vendor (Sedrick) replied, and said we were good at 5 units. I've send over the same images and am awaiting their draft of the panel layouts. I'm 30% confident at this point that we can make it happen with this vendor.

Also, do yall want jerseys and bibs, or just jersey? I was only thinking of doing the jerseys, but can do the bibs, too.

This is their size chart, just as a reference.


I’d be in for jersey and bibs if it happens, but if only jerseys happen that’s cool too.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
I've got this dumb idea that I should make my current commuter a permanent winter bike and get a fixie to gently caress around town and commute on in good weather. Send help.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

bicievino posted:

This was the first time I noticed that some folks say "winter bike" and that, being from the PNW, I say "fender bike" or "rain bike" because lmao at the idea that you'd only need a bad weather bike in the winter.

Anyway yes get another bike, duh, although commuting in hot temps you prolly still want a rack so you don't get backsweat from a pack.

Winter round here doesn't gently caress around because we get lots of snow, but my current commuter can squeeze my studded 2" that actually measure 2.5" and manage the and snow and slush.

My commute is only something like .5 mi and I only ride it because it's more fun that walking so I don't give as much consideration to stuff like luggage most of the time, which is a nice privilege. It's basically just an opportunity to goof off for as long as I make time for every morning between places where I have to be more responsible.

I mostly want n+1 because then I have a bike that's also more fun to ride casually, but I'm worried that my problem is as much being in a small boring place and not getting to ride with other people as much as it is the bike I'm on.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
I had a spoke snap on me rear wheel a few days ago, the second one since my LBS trued it. Admittedly, it's been over the course of a year since the truing, so It might just be me attributing it to a shop whose work I already don't trust. Their mechanic is a nice kid, but he's largely untrained and kinda has to figure it out as he goes. and I don't want to go back and pay for that. So, I'm probably going to need to teach myself to re-spoke and true wheels soon. In the meantime, a friend is loaning me a wheel (especially important since I have a time trial in a week).

And also I kinda just want to buy a secondhand set of deep carbon wheels. "I broke a spoke so I'm buying new wheels" is stupid and I'm aware of that, it's kind of just another excuse to do something I wanted to do anyway, or at least think it out. What things should I look out for on the secondary market? I'm looking at 10 speed rim brake wheels, so at least they're getting cheaper all the time, but those brake tracks aren't getting any less worn either. I think Zipp had some bad hubs around that time in bike tech I should watch out for? I don't see myself buying a new bike for a few years at least, so I'm not super worried about getting wheels that won't work on something newer.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

DELETE CASCADE posted:

do any of you folks use the shimano blue spd-sl cleats with the small amount of float? i used to ride the zero float red cleats, but now that i'm older and fatter, i'm worried about hurting myself if i use those and don't have them dialed in exactly right. the yellow cleats that came with my pedals have too much float, the motion feels like i'm starting to clip out even though i'm not, and they make the heel of my shoe rub against the crank sometimes

I do and it’s just right for me for pretty much the reasons you describe. I’ve never ridden reds, but I started with yellows and it felt like my foot was sloshing around on the pedal and I sometimes had a hard time telling if I was clipped in. The blue ones give me enough movement to be comfortable without needing super precise adjustment, but are rigid enough that I still feel locked into the bike.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
I went with medium bibs and a small jersey and both are tight but quite wearable, basically close to the skin but not restrictive. Exactly what I was hoping for really. Sadly it's already very cold here, so they're going to be seeing roller duty until spring.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

colonel tom posted:

If it's the kind that uses a magnet on the wheel for speed then you probably came to a stop with the magnet right near the sensor.

I have an older cateye that does the same thing, even when the magnets aren't lined up, and always at the same stop light. It's the only funny thing it does though.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
If a women's run of trashkit happens, my wife is still interested.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
I do not understand the significance of that particular bicycle.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
Anyone else scroll through facebook marketplace from time to time to see what ridiculous bike stuff comes up? I was struck by the discrepancy between these two listings:

Free:

About an hours drive away on a farm somewhere. No mention of what size or other photos, or any other information other than that the tires are flat. Tempting to ask/ just go get it, but I don't really need it.

$500 $450!

New! Never used!

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
Just saw the trailer for the Hustle City trainer game and A) A GTA-like you play on your bike seems like a cool concept. B) I'm curious about the front wheel pad for steering on your trainer. C) Holy moley does the game/graphics themselves look pretty bad.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lfh6PYZWvXc

Oldsrocket_27 fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Nov 21, 2020

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
Does anyone have any recommendations for road shoes? My feet are a little narrow with slightly high arches. I'm looking for something with plenty of room to set the cleats back from the back of my foot. Also, does anyone have a link to that chart that compared different brand's sizing?

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

VideoGameVet posted:

Have you EVER heard of a lifetime suspension of driving license?

Me neither.

I've heard of it in those umpteen DUI cases where there's just clearly no effort to change behavior.

Then a few weeks later they get another DUI driving without a license while out on bail before the trial for their last one, etc. etc.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

Pope Hilarius posted:

Anyone ever had a Morel-Lavallee lesion or a hematoma? I took a spill 10 days ago and have a now have a bubble the size of half an orange on my hip. It isn't painful but it jiggles like a water bed. The PA I spoke to seemed oblivious as to the best course of action and thought it was bursitis (I really don't think so). From my googling it seems like it could take months to resolve, possibly with longer term scarring to the area. Any anecdotes would be appreciated.

I've twice had very small hematoma, smaller than dime sized. They took about 2 months to slowly go away, but were really just a nuisance while they were there. I couldn't feel them at all after the first couple of days after forming.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
Does anyone here have experience with either pedal axle extenders or with speedplay pedals?

After fighting with knee pain and struggling with bike fit on my road bike, I got frustrated and threw flat pedals on it, which immediately solved the issue. No knee pain, comfortable in the seat, riding for hours, fantastic. Looking down, I noticed I placed my feet pretty wide on the pedals. Trying to replicate this stance with clipless, I'm at the point where I've adjusted my cleats as far inside as they go, gotten the ultegra long-axle pedals, and added a 1.5mm spacer, and it's still not quite enough. It close, but there's still a pinch at my hips and tension in my knees that turns to pain if I ride clipped in two days in a row.

So now I'm trying to figure out the next step to getting the fantastic connected feeling of being clipped in without grinding my knees into dust, and it seems like either spacers or speedplay are my best bet. I'm skeptical of spacers, but it's also cheaper than buying into a whole new pedal system, and I'm getting sick of having to throw money into this bike to make it feel as good as my beat to poo poo 90s trek mountain bike gravel conversion.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

If you mean "why not just run flat pedals?" It's because there are elements of being clipped in that I really enjoy. For a while I really enjoyed riding clipped in, until it started to wear on me. I really like riding hard and clipping in facilitates that better. If I could have the best of both worlds, why wouldn't I?

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

LoudPipesSaveLives posted:

Yeah get Speedplays. I had the same issue, inside of my knee getting really sore with most road pedals, I need my feet to move around a little bit through the rotation (so lots of float) and I have my heels turned-in so far they're almost whacking the chain-stays which is hard to adjust for on some pedals.
Only one bike fitter ever solved it with non-speedplay pedals and those shoes wore out and we had moved country so I gave up after some frustrating times and bought speedplays. After the initial setup they have been great, as long as I remember to grease them occasionally. Oh and if you need to increase your distance to get your heel in further try a couple of pedal washers first.

Float is much less of an issue than stance for me, my legs splay out way wide from my already wide hips.I've already got pedal washers on. It also looks like speedplay discontinued their longer axle models when they got bought out, so I'd be buying pedals and then buying aftermarket axles and swapping them out. I'd be happy just buying even longer axles for my shimano pedals if something longer then the +4mm was out there, but I haven't found any. It all feels like an annoying run-around to do solve what doesn't seems like it should be that uncommon/difficult of a problem.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
I'm running shimano 105, which I believe is 146mm. Changing out cranks seems like more trouble than changing pedals, and potentially more expensive. I'd rather just run different pedals if I can get away with it.

I've also found SQLab pedals, which have long axle options that look like they'd be less trouble to get a hold of than speedplay these days, since it wouldn't involve a months-long wait on aftermarket axles from J&L in Taiwan.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

meltie posted:

Coming from MTB I used to feel I wanted the same stance on my road bike to cure my own knee pain. The inexpensive pedal extenders seemed rather sketchy, so I mostly solved it by spending a few weeks actively reminding myself to ride with my knees further in close to the top tube. Seems to have worked for my kneepain, hth

I appreciate the tip. Just gave this a quick 5min try on the rollers, and it was surprisingly good. It felt weird in that I felt like I was using my muscles quite a bit differently, but my knees didn't feel any pressure. I'll probably try this for a little while and see if it'll work out for me long term. It beats just throwing more money at the problem. Thanks to everyone for helping me bumble my way through this!

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
As jamal mentioned, the silca tire pressure calculator is good, but tends to give me higher pressures than I like to run. I like the SRAM tire pressure calculator maybe better?
https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure

It doesn't make you give info to upgrade before you include factors like wheel size, rim width, clincher/tubeless, and road conditions either. It gives me numbers that are decently lower than I've been running, and once I'm off the rollers and back on pavement this spring I'm going to give those pressures a shot.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009

Koirhor posted:

No like if I want to go buy a Domane trek’s website says their are none at any of the 3 trek stores near me. Like every variety is out of stock its crazy. I can spend $7k for a custom built Domane+ LT but lmao ok

Same story for the major Giant retailer near me.

Yo I know this shop has a bunch of bikes in stock and will ship, odds are good they have a Domane left in stock since most of their business is hybrids. You'll pay for shipping probably, but it's better than not getting a bike if they don't gouge you. They apparently just shipped a bike as far as Hawaii this past week.

https://www.facebook.com/Dakota-Outdoors-107424052649737/

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
There used to be a guy in town who rented storage units and would sell secondhand bikes he'd fixed up and give some away for little kids. My wife got her old Univega with full suntour drivetrain from him for a real deal of a price. I've been keeping an eye out lately for a fixed gear frame and looking online is a mess, and a buddy is looking for a steel road bike. I managed to get the guy's phone number and gave him a call. He doesn't have a space in town anymore, but he said we're welcome to drive out 40min to his main shop on one of his days off, where he has some 700 goddamn bicycles stashed away to see if he might have something that suits our needs. I think we're going to be able to go next week. I'm real excited to see if there's anything special in there, but I expect to find my fair share of cheapo bikes and 40lb schwinns.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
Went to the bike "warehouse" this afternoon. It was an old rural school building. It was, in fact, mostly junker bikes, but there were some nice ones there. He had a finished fuji road bike in the biggest frame size I think I've seen. You'd need to be like 6'5" to ride it, but it was very pretty. His road bike room was all old steel bikes plus a trek 6000 and some very rusty beach cruisers:


Nothing top end, but some very respectable bikes that really just needed some cleaning up/tear down and regrease treatment, including a schwinn le tour and a world tour, a bridgestone of some description, another fuji, a decent looking raleigh. He had a really pretty late 70s motobecane frame (no fork) in metallic green that I was tempted by until I noticed a rusty hole torn in the underside of a chainstay from the kickstand plate getting ripped off. I didn't pick any of these up, but if I want another project at some point, I'm betting they'll still be tucked away back there for a while.

He only had three fixed gears, all of which were modern beaters but two of which were in my size. I picked up the "nicer" of the two for $50 to tinker on. No clue what it is, all the badging is long gone and sprayed over, but it's new enough to have a threadless stem and those lovely aluminum 3-ish cm deep rims with a flip flop hub. EDIT: It didn't take long to figure out what it was looking around online. I think it's a Pure Cycles Fix, with a few parts swapped out. My plan is to strip it, repaint it, regrease/replace moving parts, and use it as a town bike and a test bike to see how well I like riding fixed. Sorry, I don't have a pic, because as soon as I got it home I threw it on the stand and swapped the risers for drops and rode it around the block a few times. I also scored some profile design 1-piece aerobars with the spring loaded forearm rests in nice shape for $10.

I forgot my phone in the car, but my buddy got a quick few photos of the storage room bikes waiting to get fixed and moved the the "showroom" room.
The kid bike room


The Mountain Bike room


I didn't have the time to look through either for anything special, but there might be good bikes hiding in that mountain bike room.

Oldsrocket_27 fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Apr 20, 2021

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
In case anyone's wondering if Pure cycles makes good frames:

Eh, not so much. Look at dem seatstays. When the rear wheel is lined up with the seat tube, it's off-center one way in the seatstays and the other way in the chainstays. There's no signs of stress or cracks on the welds or tubes, so I think it was made that way. I'll get a better look when the paint's stripped off. I picked up paint stripper, gun blue, and clear coat this afternoon, but didn't have time to get that far after stripping the components and cleaning everything.

Also, a warning sticker about bicucling:


I mentioned it in the "show us your bicycle" thread, but this thing needs a name. I had some suggestions there, solid options:

bicievino posted:

Frianchi
Pizza Ship
[Pb] u jelly?

Given the *Ahem* quality of the contstruction, I'm was thinking of giving it a big ol "CROCTOPUS" on the downtube and "BOTE" on the top tube. However, given the misspelled warning label, I'm tempted to make the "brand" either "croctopus" or "bote," and the model name "bicucle" I'd still like to figure out a headtube badge too.

Another thought was to make it a Beyonci Super PissedOff.

It's going to be too cold and snowy tomorrow to work on it and I won't have time during the week, so there's time to consider it and for other suggestions.

If nothing else, the $10 aero bars I got are nice:

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Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
I've heard that NixFrixShun is very good but have yet to try it. I intend to give it a shot once I run out of the junky white lightning stuff I've got at the moment.

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