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bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Bikes are cool.

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bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

ScooterMcTiny posted:

I finally pulled the trigger on a new bike after mine was stolen a few weeks back. Can’t wait to just get out and ride. Solo ride, group ride, any ride is a good ride.

pics plz

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

spf3million posted:

I'm planning my next big ride. What do you all like to eat while riding? So far I'm working with
- PB&J / PB&Honey
- Rice crispy treats
- Dry pancakes
- home made rice cakes
- gummy bears
- chocolate covered espresso beans
- just ordered some stroopwafels
- burnt out on Clif blocs

boiled red potatoes with an insane amount of salt on them.
pickles + pickle juice
bananas
more home made rice cakes
I just tried one of those "epic" protein bars for the first time (spicy sriracha chicken) and it was pretty dang good

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

spf3million posted:

Are we talking whole or cubed?
:hmmyes: to everything else

small ones, cut in half or quarters. more surface area for salt that way

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

nwin posted:

Just the threaded piece and then the piece next to the QR lever. So I didn’t grease the shaft itself.

I always grease the shaft.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

nm posted:

Any 1/2 finger unpadded glove recs?
I have some Giros and the durability hasn't been amazing and the fabric rubs weird.

I just got a pair of velocio summer gloves because my wife ordered the wrong size. Love em. Almost certainly overpriced, but hey, it's bike stuff, that's a given.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Send the newbies to the competitive cycling thread.

Lord knows there's nothing else to talk about in there for the next... ? anyway.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

kimbo305 posted:

Today is New Jersey Day. Post those new jerseys.

It's not new, but it's mine for another year (thanks covid):

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Andy Dufresne posted:

I'm thinking about buying this bike. Tell me why I should or shouldn't! https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road-bikes-us/race-bikes/aeroad/aeroad-cf-sl-disc-8.0-di2/2875.html?dwvar_2875_pv_rahmenfarbe=BK&quantity=1

I've been riding my old road bike quite a bit for the last month and I intend to continue riding a lot because I'm enjoying it. I'm still a novice cyclist but I'll want to go on long group rides and shoot for a fast ironman in a year or two and I don't want to buy a separate TT bike, I just want one bike man (aside from my existing bike which I'll convert for family riding). Aero bars are available for the H36 cockpit but they are currently out of stock.

My coworker is telling me to look at this Specialized bike instead so I don't get the stinkeye at the local bike shop. I'm not totally convinced.

Edit: My coworker also said if he were dropping the money he would instead buy this $2200 bike and use Enve's wheel upgrade program to get some nicer wheels for an additional ~$2k. Seems crazy to me to downgrade to 105 groupset and alloy frame.

That canyon looks boring AF while the specialized at least has a couple cool paint jobs.
The spesh tarmac might be tricky to find in stock?

I have an allez sprint disc and like it a lot, but you might find it too stiff for an ironman, and agree that if you're doing that, you should buy frame-only and build up with the components you want, which won't end up being much cheaper.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Andy Dufresne posted:

I'm not hip to bike fashion, but I thought the black/black Canyon with deep section wheels was among the best looking bikes I've seen over the last few days. The two Specialized bikes don't look that great to me :shrug:

Personally I find black bikes very basic and generic, but what other people think of your bike doesn't count for poo poo, just what you think of your bike.
Buy whatever looks cool and good to you, because you will definitely get more joy out of it if it looks cool and good to you and that's what bikes are all about.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

MrL_JaKiri posted:


Finally, don't buy Enves. Most of the cost is the branding of having a super expensive wheel. You can get something just as good - if not better - from DT Swiss/Swiss Side at half the price.

*Having the di2 junction in the seat post is a slightly weird decision compared to its position in the down tube/on a bar end (ala a Dogma or a Madone), but it's infinitely preferable to having the under-stem version of old, which is hidden on the Aeroad but you have to bend a piece of plastic to get access to charge it, and I always feel like I'm going to break it.

Agree with this advice, especially if you're deciding on race wheels, wait until you know if it makes sense to run a disc instead, because if the conditions allow for it, a disc will make more difference than any of the cable routing or truncated tube whatnots.

Also I hadn't noticed that di2 junction location - weird. I guess you have to take the saddle bag off every time to charge it?

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

I know it sounds a bit dumb, but I feel like you don't really get a whole lot more at $500 over a $300 wheelset.
Like, staying in the same product family, you could go to a Ksyrium, which will save a whopping... 200g for the whole wheelset, and get you tubeless compatibility, but with tubeless for 28mm tires is... idk, only barely worth the hassle imo. The wheels won't ride materially differently.
$500 to save 200g is kinda meh I think.
You could get the Campy Zonda wheelset from bike24 for https://www.bike24.com/p2184286.html?menu=1000,4,123 about $400 shipped, which would save you 340g and get you a weird neat spoke pattern. Still more than $1/gram, which, oof.

You could also get these carbon-with-alu brake track wheels, which are only very slightly lighter than her current wheels, but are aero at 42mm deep. https://www.bike24.com/p2227942.html?menu=1000,4,123

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Feels Villeneuve posted:

It's a cool paint job but Trek discovering that they can extend the logo to the headtube to make it even more massive is the most ominous development in cycling since the press fit BB.

yeah the trek women's team paint owns but TREK

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Quite A Tool posted:

I’m in the market for a bike to ride with my wife who just picked up a new Journeyman. I’ve found an older (‘09) Stigmata that fits the bill at $750 with a grip of goodies but he ran too fat tires at some point and hosed up the chainstay pretty good. I’m a chunk monster at 260, how bad is this and am I going to die if I ride this bike?


https://imgur.com/a/AftlTAT

Nah man, at 260 you want a bike that can clear some competent rubber, and the old aluminum stigmatas were straightup cx bikes with like 35mm clearance tops.

Just get yourself a journeyman or something along those lines - it's a thread default suggestion for a reason. Or tell us why a journeyman for yourself isn't a good call and we can make better suggestions.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

DeesGrandpa posted:

Today through some truck electrical system misadventures I found that single use Gojo wipe packets are a thing. Now that I am finally prepared for fixing a broken chain without getting entirely gunked up I look forward to never breaking a chain ever again.

a couple latex gloves in the saddlebag are hella clutch

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

sweat poteto posted:

Deda rhm 01 or 02 are compact and good value. I've used both and prefer the flattened top. 3t ergonova or whatever daft name they've given the latest version is good too, and available in carbon if you want that (though then you get internal routing too aaaaa). The 3t is a bit more compact than the rhm02 I feel. Be aware Deda measure outside not centre.

I'll echo that the Deda bar curve shape is imo really comfortable for all-day-in-the-drops use.
I'll also take this prompt as an opportunity to give a long-ish term review to the bars I put on my race bike at the beginning of the year: the PRO vibe aero.
I have used a flattened section bar before, but it was aluminum (the Deda Superzero alloy), and it was more annoying than helpful - they aren't flattened enough to be meaningfully more comfortable, just wider to grab.
The PRO vibe aero is NARROW. And, interestingly, not just on the tops: below the brifters the drops narrow down dramatically - I believe for aerodynamic purposes.

On initial use I was concerned they'd be too uncomfortable being that much narrower. I ended up putting a pretty thick bartape on, which I'm sure undercuts whatever aerodynamic benefit I was supposed to be getting, but with that combination I have been super happy - the flattened profile actually feels *better* than a round tube when sprinting hard, and I don't notice discomfort when just cruising.

I can't speak to the comfort of the flat tops, because I never use them - in that sense they're presumably doing their job of being as aero as possible while not being actively annoying. The only frustration I have with them is that I wish they had started the top wing section a tiny bit further from the stem clamp - it can't even fit a standard k-edge mount, they had to make a special skinnier version.

Overall, very happy with these bars. On the spendy end, but for a comfortable but super stiff aero option, worth considering if that sounds interesting to you.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015


This actually works surprisingly well imo.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

jamal posted:

Your saddle position and angle could also be causing problems. if it's too forward or angled down you wind up supporting more weight on your hands. A little downward saddle angle can be beneficial to comfort but if you're sliding off it and have to hold yourself in place with your hands that's a problem. So make sure that's not happening, and possibly try sliding it just slightly back (and also you have to go down a bit to compensate for the extra distance to the cranks.

Brake and shift lever position could be contributing as well. They rotate up and down and move in and out just by loosening up the clamp bolt. You don't want to have to twist your wrists up or down to use the brakes and depending on the model you might want to move them in so only your index fingers pull the end of the lever. They tend to wind up way too far out/against the grips on a lot of bikes for some reason.

This is good advice, and also do more planks.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

These are "IS" mounts. You need an IS to Post Mount adaptor and post mount calipers.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

former glory posted:

I had a nice long ride today in good weather. My area has a lot of road cycling traffic and cars are usually pretty good about leaving the full lane of space to pass cyclists given how common it is. But today, I got buzzed by 3 cars who tried to squeeze in the pass while oncoming traffic was coming up at a hill - one guy in a merc pretty much left me 6" going fast as hell. I worry that some day I'll just be killed by one of these impatient psychos. What's a way to fight back? I have a Go Pro and could just mount it to my stem and report, but I doubt the cops would give a poo poo... or would they?

I make it a habit of waving to drivers who pass safely and leave a lot of room. I know I shouldn't feel grateful at the fact that they decided not to harm me, but I believe some positive feedback has some value. :classiclol: Maybe some negative is in order.

I also make a habit of waving to drivers. I think it's good to put positive energy in to the world.
I tend to assume that drivers that are squeezing too close to me aren't malicious, they just don't realize how unsafe it feels (and is!) when they do it.

To help them avoid doing something that dangerous, if there isn't room for them to pass safely, I ride smack gently caress in the middle of the lane, so that it is OBVIOUS that there isn't room to "squeeze" past. Sometimes this feels obnoxious, but I'd rather be a bit of an imposition than get killed. In order to mitigate it, as soon as it *is* safe for me to let a driver by, I make an exaggerated movement back to the side of the lane, and wave them through. I feel like overtly sharing the road this way helps it be clearer that I'm not being "rude" for no reason with what I'm doing. Whether any of that gets through to drivers behind me, no idea, but it makes me feel better about it, which is what's important.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Feels Villeneuve posted:

honestly the most annoying thing that isn't carelessness/dangerous driving is when people decide to be "nice" and hold up at intersections despite arriving first/having ROW, rather than just going, leading to that "wait who's going to go" standoff that can end in both people trying to go at once. just go, man!

Augh. Why is it so hard to just follow the rules of the road.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

e.pilot posted:

strava global heat map is a good start to see where everyone else is riding

This.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Heliosicle posted:

My Tickr heart rate chest strap is starting to act up, even after changing the batteries it's reporting the same heart rate for 4 or 5 minutes sometimes and never a rate below 120 bpm.

I'm looking at getting a Tickr fit to replace it, but seems like it could be awkward to wear with long sleeve jerseys. I know lots of people here have them and seem to like them, so maybe that's not such an issue?

The other complaint I read was about non-regulation tan lines :v:

About once a month during the winter I'll forget to put it on and have to take my jersey and jacket back off to put it on, but besides that, meh.

It works fine. The only time it has been totally busted is when it's well below freezing, and I think I just had so little circulation in my arms that it wasn't reading proper.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Benson Cunningham posted:

Alright. Been looking at a lot of bikes. Everything I really liked had a flaw...

Grail CF SL 7.0 - $2,500k, out of stock
Haanjo 7c Carbon - $2,800, out of stock
2019 Salsa Warbird - $2,600, out of stock (called)
Terra C Ultegra - $2,800, out of stock

Any thoughts for something similar that might actually be in stock ? Looking for something I can ride fast on lovely roads and trails and 1-2 times a year take on a multi day, light touring trip. The 2019 Warbird was really promising, but no one has those in stock anymore and the 2020 version doesn't have 105s (2x-11)

When you say "light touring" do you mean rack + panniers touring or bikepacking bags?

What kind of tire size you looking for?

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Benson Cunningham posted:

2 panniers max, less than 30 pounds total.

Would prefer 700s between 34-40.

I think you should get a Ribble CGR AL. https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-cgr-al-orange-shimano-ultegra/

edit: also sold out lmao sorry

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

redcheval posted:

I have an extreme thirst to start biking more. I’m a big newbie and all I have right now is a little townie cruiser I’ve been riding around the neighborhood every day, but I want to do more and get out on the weekends. My fiancé and I would love to do some beginner mountain bike trails but he’s not going to be able to buy a bike any time soon even in normal, non-bike shortage times. I’m also really intrigued by gravel and trail biking.

The bike shop near me is unsurprisingly almost completely cleaned out but they have Surly Midnight Specials in for $1600 right now. I’ve done obsessive bike research over the past couple months but I still don’t really know what would be good for me. Should I just bite the bullet and get one of these? Or forgo my big beautiful bike dreams until post-covid when I can go nuts trying bikes out at the store?

You can have a lot of fun on that bike doing road, gravel and mild trails, but it also is not going to be a super fun bike to get into actual mountain biking with.
That's a pretty good discount over retail - if it's in your size (Surlys fit weird) then it's a relatively low risk. Has the upside that Surlys somehow seem to hold their value relatively well. If it ends up not being the bike of your dreams or even just not the right bike for what you end up deciding is a fun style of riding, you won't take a bath on resale at that price.
Also... finding a bike in stock that fits you in 2020 is a miracle so I wouldn't overthink it if you can afford it.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

I definitely have one somewhere in my basement. Can check for you tomorrow.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Anachronist posted:

You should tell these folks that ~serious racers~ ride smaller bikes for that superior stiffness and weight savings. Plus it makes your slammed stem look that much cooler.

I sized up on my new crit biek :(

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Is that Cinelli logo going to cause an issue with Racmmer? The other ones are close by way of using font or stylized letters but coffee is using their trademarked logo.

Lmao, this is a $25 Ali Express kit company.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

spf3million posted:

I went on a big ride yesterday, haven't got the motivation for a trip report yet, but today I'm especially sore only in my quads and calfs. Nothing in the glutes, hamstrings or hip flexors. I assume this is because I have terrible pedalling habits. I got into biking using flat pedals and became a masher. Now that I have clipless pedals, I still rarely do any kind of pulling around from 6-12 o'clock unless I'm actively thinking about it. I also assume that if I were to practice enough eventually it would become more natural.

My problem is that when I do pull through the bottom of the pedal stroke and up, it puts a lot more pressure on my sit bones (seems obvious). Over long rides, eventually all of my contact points get over the threshold into the painful category to some degree. Adding the pull seems like it will more than double the cumulative load on my sit bones. I thinking about this right? Any way around this? I feel like my fit is pretty good since I'm not sore in my back or neck after 17 hours in the saddle.

I've never noticed this being an issue except when doing rollers workouts where I really don't shift my weight at all for like an hour.

For remediating a questionable pedalstroke, i strongly suggest adding in some fixed gear riding. That'll cure you of not pedaling circles posthaste.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

For me I could deal with all of them until I get to the point about expensive rims being consumables, and how garbage carbon rims are for rim braking.
If you're fine with aluminum rims, and especially if you live somewhere flat and/or dry, it's probably pretty easy to just stick with rim brakes and save a not insignificant amount of money.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

1) yes you can remove the fender bolts
2) You were left with a bike that wasn't safe to ride after they had it in the shop and a mechanic had looked at it. That's unacceptable. They shouldn't have sold you larger tires without confirming they could fit - which might have meant telling you they didn't have any tires for you. If they didn't have time to do anything on your bike they shouldn't have given you the impression they could.
That said: most bike shops right now are understaffed, overworked, and dealing with huge supply chain issues and frustrated customers. I'm sure they thought they were doing you a favor by trying to squeeze you in and do something for you instead of turning you away empty handed. I try not to jump to judgment of underpaid retail employees.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

rope kid posted:

The only real advantages I see with disc brakes are stopping power in lovely conditions (important) and wheel interchangeability (potentially cool if you have a bunch of disc wheels with identically-sized rotors in reserve -- I don't). I have yet to have a rim die because my rim brakes wore them down to nothing. Good mini-v brakes (like the Paul MiniMoto) can give great performance and allow wide tires, no problem. Alternately, you can use a traditional Mafac Racer-style rim brake with brazed pivot points that gives great performance and a lot of clearance. Discs also require some compromises in fork design and pee pee poo poo they look bad.

California riding is pretty easy on aluminum rims.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Oldsrocket_27 posted:

Nah, this is some elitist bullshit that keeps people off bikes, and even gets people to stop riding. Not everyone can afford to just throw stuff away when it breaks and go buy another one. Even if it's "not worth it" in terms of the overall resale value of the bike, it's absolutely worth it in the value it adds to a person's life if spending $50 or $100 on fixing a $200 bike keeps someone riding, instead of not being able to afford $500+ for a different bike taking them off the road.
For posters reading this many years from now when this pandemic is over:
Man, how many $200 hybrids have you seen that can be fixed with only $50 or $100 of work? I feel like the only way fixing a hybrid makes sense is for folks who have access to a co-op or other cheaper-than-normal option, and even then it's going to be an uphill battle.

For posters in a pandemic:
Obviously do not throw out a functional bike rn. It is impossible to buy a bike, so even if it takes more than you paid for the whole bike, it's worth repairing it.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Oldsrocket_27 posted:

I have an old low-end trek 26er that I've been told on these forums is "basically disposable" and advised not to fix or upgrade, and it's even a step above your average cheap hybrid. That's why I took e.pilot's post to be serious. But I've absolutely kept replacing chains and freewheels, re-packing bearings, taking apart and cleaning stuff, etc. anyway. The only things cost me more than $50 have been tools I couldn't borrow. Granted, I have a rigid fork bike from a reputable brand, but a lot of those things hold true for cheaper bikes too, especially when the "fix" needed is just a deep cleaning or new bearings. Breaking something major on any bike is going to expensive (I grant it's more likely to happen on a cheapo bike), the difference is just how that cost relates to the overall value of the bike.

I think a better way to talk about hybrid bikes is to say that the low end department store bikes are often poorly made and prone to break, so don't buy one unless it's absolutely your only option. If someone has one and it breaks, I think it's more productive to send someone to a Sheldon Brown page or link a Calvin Jones video than it is to tell them to throw it out (jokingly or not). The cost of having a shop fix it might be more than the cost of replacing it, but learning to do it yourself might not be, and I think it's more productive advice that's more likely to get and keep people biking.

I think the unclear terminology at the low end of the market is obviously a big source of confusion.
As you say, a low-end bike from a non-department store brand is still going to be a step above an actual $200 (retail, new) hybrid. You obviously have a higher tolerance and aptitude for doing maintenance work yourself.
ESPECIALLY after accounting for the cost of tools, I stand by my statement that fixing all the things that fail in a dangerous manner on an actual $200 (new, retail) hybrid after even a minor amount of use is going to cost more than buying the same thing again new. Anyone who shares your willingness to fix things themselves will of course get a better deal used, but I think you're something of an outlier.

Overall, I think the whinging from folks (this is more directed at Feels than you) about how the OP doesn't address every one of these issues perfectly is rather overwrought. The industry as a whole is completely inconsistent and confusing about it - expecting some Something Awful forums poster to be able to bring clarity to something that is legitimately unclear is maybe over-optimistic. I'm sure that anyone who was willing to put the effort into offering up an actual improved section for the OP instead of complaining that what is there isn't good enough would get a more receptive response.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

FogHelmut posted:

We picked up one of these http://2010.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=smoke for $200 on Facebook. I have put $0 into it, it only needed a cleaning and cable adjustments. and the seatpost is completely frozen and will require and act of god to move

Right, which is why I subsequently clarified that "$200 hybrid" really refers to a new price.
The price is really unhelpful when we're talking about used bikes because local used markets vary so much. I sold a flat bar redline singlespeed for $200, that doesn't mean anything about grouping it in the same "not worth repairing" class.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

FogHelmut posted:

Why would anyone be fixing a new bike?

Because once you have bought a new bike, after you use it for a while, it can (and at the pricepoint in question, almost certainly will) break.
That was the context for this discussion. Not whether people should be buying used department store hybrids and fixing them up.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Lawen posted:

I ended up with a Dual Sport 3 because that’s what I was able to actually find and buy and haven’t regretted it yet but also haven’t ridden more that 10 miles in one day yet, either.

Right now the fact you were able to find anything at that pricepoint in your size is a win. Enjoy your new bike!!

In normal times, the FX 3 is slightly cheaper and a better choice for almost all people, because making an affordable, reliable, and effective suspension fork is hard - you can get close to the same level of comfort with slightly wider tires.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Andy Dufresne posted:

So I guess this isn't a good time to tell the thread that my LBS has the $5000 road bike I was thinking about buying in stock in my size

What color?

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bicievino
Feb 5, 2015


Have you seen it in person?

That's... I mean, hey, if you love it then I guess I'm happy for you.

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