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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Recommendations on bike fit system/bike fitters? And bonus points if you know anyone in the Grand Rapids/West Michigan area. I'm down to throw a bike shop or individual a couple hundred bucks, but would also entertain "at home" systems - seems like I've seen some apps you can use??

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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

I really prefer wrapping from the tops down to the plugs, stuffing the last half wrap of tape in the bar end, and then plugging to seal. No finishing tape and it's way easier to unwrap a bit if you have to move/work on brifters.

Start as close to the stem as you like with the tape under the bar and wrapping out to the front and "back" to you over the top (think about how your hands more naturally rotate back/down on the tops and match the tape to that direction). Wrap 2-3 times directly around the start point to anchor and then continue "out" toward the hoods. Once you get to the brifter apply the little bit of extra tape to cover the gap underneath the brifter body, take the tape across the outside of the brifter, and then start wrapping under the brifter toward the end of the drops in the opposite direction of what you were doing on the tops (again, think about how your hand naturally wants to rotate "out" when in the drops and match the tape to that direction). Wrap down until you get a half width of wrap past the bar end, fold into the bar, and insert plug.

Voila!

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

BraveUlysses posted:

so if i want some cold weather bibs what's a good reasonably priced brand? although i have some nice underarmour running leggings i could wear over a normal bib short i'm guessing its more comfortable to have full length bib.

i have really really long legs though, normally i wear a 33x36 pant

Honestly I find it more versatile to have a couple pairs of good, lightweight bibs and then throw running leggings/capris over them depending on the season. Plus, that way you can ditch an outer layer on long rides where the weather may be variable.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

e.pilot posted:

I made a dumb thing, would anyone be interested in a run of these? Not totally set on the colors but that’s more or less what it’d look like.



yes

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

mikemelbrooks posted:

Counter point if you are Zwifting on a dumb trainer a power meter makes absolute sense before a bike computer.
Agreed but if you don't wanna spend $$$ Zwift has all the major dumb trainer power curves mapped so you can get away with just a BT speed sensor.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

For the trashkit sizing - I'm 6'1" 180lbs and normally a medium in bibs from like PI/Voler/LG. I'm a small in most club fit jerseys and medium/large in race cut stuff depending on how racy.

Suggestions on what size to get for trashkit jersey and bibs?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

e.pilot posted:

Large or XL, leaning towards XL unless you want a really snug fit

Dope XL for both it is, thanks!

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

barkbell posted:

Got a peloton earlier this month, I also got the shoes. They work alright but the outside of my foot get sore. So I think I need some wider ones. I tried some knit giros and they run super short for the same size. I don't have yeti feet or anything, but I like merrell shoes (trail gloves) for running because of the toebox being larger. What are some good cycling shoe brand with reasonable widths?

I'd love more thoughts on this too - my understanding is that traditional shoe makers that do a "wide" or "high volume" shoe are bigger/wider everywhere, not just the forefoot, which means those of us just looking for a shoe that's shaped like, oh I dunno, A FOOT are SOL. Bont seems to make something closer to a foot-shaped shoe, but they don't sell anywhere local so I can't try them on and I'm loathe to spend $300-400 on a shoe that I can't try on that needs to be mm perfect to fit.

I wish Altra would just make a cycling shoe.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Thom ZombieForm posted:

TFW when you bought a canyon endurace 3 months ago and only just started riding it daily, feeling better than ever, and then this happens.

Unrelated: I just started the clip in pedal life. It’s amazing save for some numbness in my toes particularly on the left foot after 8~ miles (guess I need to adjust cleat or saddle or maybe even get a larger size shoe? Idk there’s too many variables, may spring for that bike fit service)

Does anyone use a “clip in to flat pedal adapter” when taking their bike short distances? I found https://www.flypedals.com/, not sure if it’s worth. Haven’t tried pedaling in normie shoes yet on clip ins but guessing it’s about it as awkward as w bike shoes

Flypedals are a solid piece, but that means they're heavy enough to always be upside down. You have to do the "Look-style toe pickup" trick every time you get back on after a light or whatever.

I think they make sense if you have one bike and no allen wrenches. Swapping pedals takes what, 2 min?

The original kickstarter advertisment for them proposed a much different use case than I think most people intuitively consider - putting flats quickly on a pure road bike after a long ride for the jaunt to a cafe. I think it was like "after 100 miles take off those tight road shoes and slap these on, wear sandals to the cafe, profit."

Of course, what self respecting roadie doesn't wanna clip clop around the coffee shop to show off their $500 Sidis?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Time posted:

people who crit race - aluminum frame while learning how to race with people, right? I’m at a fitness level where I could justify something more expensive but not if I’m likely to lay it down/get forcibly laid down.

If that’s the case I have a diverge frame I could use but it’s got the worlds worst Claris groupset on it and it would be more expensive to find and put on a 105 set of components than it would be to find an allez sprint comp disc (not that a groupset or that bike exist).

I guess I don’t really have a question just people who race with other people near them, tell me what you know. I have done a few ultra-style gravel races at this point but this is so wildly different that I would love any resources to read/watch/listen to

I don't disagree that an AL frame will likely cope with a crash better, but honestly if you lay 'er down hard enough to break carbon aren't you in a situation where the medical bills will dwarf the difference between a new AL vs carbon frame?

And carbon is pretty cheap these days...

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Time posted:

I don’t think this tracks at all. It’s very easy to walk away from a crash and wreck a bike. Rider injury and bike condition often diverge wildly, in either direction.

Also, I have 100% paid for socialized healthcare so it’s not a factor even if that was the case.

Fair point, that makes sense.

Also - I sometimes forget that there are parts of the world much less dumb and lovely than the US. Carry on with the hunt to upgrade your AL!

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

BraveUlysses posted:

maybe a mr clean magic eraser will do the trick

Yes and of course the obligatory PSA that magic erasers are just melamine foam:

https://www.amazon.com/Dr-WOW-Multi...mine+foa&sr=8-3

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

I’ve bought a late 90s Stumpy frame, how should I build it up? Wrong answers only, please



Sorry for the right answer.

And to the 26" slicks question, Rene Herse all the way - Rat Trap Pass. They're like riding on rubber clouds. Get the extralights.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

I have that generation of SRAM against CX70s, and the braking is acceptable but not good. Totally fine for commuting in all but the worst pouring rain, and then needs some extra leadout to stop.

Acceptable but not good is pretty much spot on if you're used to something good or great. Had V-brakes on the original build which probably would have been a bit better but didn't wanna use problem solvers' travel agents simply cuz of looks. Plus the cantis look better too.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Raenir Salazar posted:

Yeah I'm looking into it now, just trying to figure out how to best to get it to display on my TV.

Alternately get a tablet stand and run Zwift on that close to the bike and then put whatever on the TV for background entertainment.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003


This. What kind of bike?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Xir posted:

Basically, is there a general consensus on what power meters are best? I know about DC Rainmaker and have read his guides over the past few years.

Ray himself says there is no "best" just what works for you. Based on your preference to not be locked into a specific crank I'd say pedals make the most sense.

Maybe also consider hub-based? I know then you're committed to a wheel but a bit more long-term compatibility there vs cranks perhaps?

Disclosure - I do not have a power meter (other than the trainer), just going by what I've read/know. If I was to buy one I'd do single-sided Stages or 4iii on the cheap, or go all in with Garmin pedals.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

1x is great, so is 2x, but here's an additional benefit of 2x in my experience: On a monstercross/burly gravel bike a 2x setup basically gives you a road 1x and a singletrack 1x. On mine I never shift the front derailleur unless I'm switching between those types of riding. Mine is 42/28 with an 11-36 10-speed cassette. So the whole "faffing about with front shifting" is largely moot in this example, and on that type of bike I'm certainly not worried about weight or aero.

I really do like having 2x on my road bike, but only because I'm really particular about getting the right effort/cadence ratio and like small jumps on the cassette. Running a compact up front and 11-25 11-speed there. For me the really difficult choice between 1x and 2x would be on a racy gravel bike.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Wonder how close you could get to the output of that with a piece of thick cardboard and a chair/stool?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Got a buddy who just picked up a 2020 Trek Checkpoint ALR 5 and is curious about getting a second wheelset for road duty. He is looking to keep it pretty budget since he's not chasing performance gains but rather the ability to just swap wheelsets to change between road and gravel tires.

Suggestions on a 12x100/142 disc wheelset that would be appropriate for a 28mm tire under say, $400? Open to used too.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

According to the internet as long as that Tiagra rear deraileur is at least a medium cage a 30t will fit - https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=6706&category=41 - so for $37 you could get a touch more range. FYI you'll need a chain whip and cassette lockring tool to change it. Parktool has great guides/videos on how to do any maintenance/repair on a bike.

Most road bikes of that era will fit a 25c tire, some even up to a 28c. So you could try a wider tire too for the occasional gravel foray.

Do those two things and see where it gets you. At $3k you have a ton of choice for gravel/allroad stuff, but the bike industry's dirty little (not so) secret is that all the frames at that price point come from the same factory, so get whatever one you like the look of most and focus on the groupset:price ratio (where direct to consumer brands like Canyon shine). If you can put on a set of handlebars and a front wheel you can do your own assembly.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

I think somebody earlier in the thread posted a breakdown of the different fender companies relative to style and price, anybody got a recap/link?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003


Spot on, many thanks!

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Clamp adapter time???

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

sweat poteto posted:

^ The smoothest shifting bike I ever had was on 8 or 9 speed 105. Just shot through the gears with barely a whisper.

My commuter's 9 speed Sora is basically like a CVT gearbox it's so smooth. Wild.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Zwift

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

The Ames to Des Moines leg is looking to set a world record - https://www.kcci.com/article/ragbrai-leaders-want-ames-to-des-moines-to-be-biggest-bicycle-parade/42711764

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Is anyone doing a titanium gravel/allroad frame with racier geo that's etap only? Only thing I can find is either a Ribble prototype or going custom. Thanks in advance!

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear - "etap only" meaning no cable bosses/downtube inlets - brake hose routing only (and ideally integrated into the cockpit/headset). Looking for the cleanest frame possible.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Development posted:

you could go full Gravel Tryhard (rip) and get a J. Guillem

https://jguillem.com/bike/major

Well that's not a gravel bike and the Atalaya (which is) has provisions for cables. I appreciate the help but am I missing something on how to convey what I'm looking for? ;D

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003


Haha have considered it.


Cool, I'll keep an eye out for a gravel one from them!

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

jamal posted:

I assume moots would do that for you if you asked.

Oh I'm sure, just wasn't ready to plunk Moots Money if there was an off the shelf option.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Heliosicle posted:

https://www.enigmabikes.com/ and https://www.jlaverack.co.uk/ both let you customise the frame somewhat and include/remove parts, so they're probably able to do that.

Or you could go full custom with Waltly or Wittson etc.

Much obliged. Anyone have opinions on the seemingly infinite number of Ti frame builders out there? All pretty much the same or are there meaningful differences between a Moots and Chinese stuff like Waltly?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

bicievino posted:

No personal experience but if I were deadset on titanium for a gravel bike, picky about options, and not ready to plunk down custom money, I'd go to Waltly.

But I'll also add that as someone who has fully integrated cable routing on his gravel bike, it sucks rear end and I un-integrated it as much of it as I could because I use my gravel bike enough that maintainability matters.

Also if you're ever gonna fly somewhere cool, fully integrated is extra annoying.

Historically I've been 100% external/mechanical. But if I'm buying a "forever" frame (lol titanium buzzwords) then I figure I'll make it as forward thinking as possible. Two brake hoses, nothing else.

I can't see ever flying with my own bike. But point taken.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Bud Manstrong posted:

You were. You said “allroad” - that J Guillem they recommended has no cable stops and clears 35s. To the extent that bike buzzwords mean anything, “allroad” denotes slightly less clearance than “gravel.” You seem to want something with bigger clearance, so be specific about what you’re looking for. While you’re at it, what does “racy” mean to you? Angles? Stack/reach?

I agree with everyone saying you should probably go custom. If you do, though, I’d be prepared to have numbers in mind or at least a bike you’d like to replicate with your chosen options.

My bad - point taken. Looking to clear at least 40s. Racy to me means something like an Addict/Aspero, which is what I'd pull geo numbers from.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Prior to an XT 1x conversion and some other tweaks

https://imgur.com/a/DQvTa

amenenema fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Feb 9, 2023

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Nobody Interesting posted:

Gave it a look over. It doesn't look bent to me but the front brake was rubbing, after a little troubleshoot it seems it was because the front wheel (wheels are quick release) was a li'l loose. Tightened up that fucker and the rub seems to have gone.

Ride to work this morning went okay. I still can't do the steepish hill and I feel like I'm gonna die but at least the bike is okay :unsmith:

For what it's worth in many cases you can't visually diagnose a bent hanger. So much so that there are specific tools for checking.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

If you've ever done glade skiing (and enjoyed it) then you really owe it to yourself to give fatbiking a try. I think the best base scenario is really about 3-5" of fresh light powder on hardpack flowy singletrack. It is admittedly slow, but it's such an engaging, focused effort and a great combo cardio/core workout. It's also fun riding "fast" on wide groomed trails (like six foot wide, that pic above looks like a rough time).

Riding the beach along Lake Michigan sand dunes in the summer is also super awesome. But yeah, on normal non-snow singletrack definitely not the best.

To the OP's bike needs, I'd say either chunky gravel bike or hard tail 29er depending on the ratio of road/trails you seek to ride.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

I've real-deal bonked once - it's very different than the feeling of being very fatigued/hungry. Legs tingled, headache, and a complete inability to turn the pedals over. Would not recommend; one star.

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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

hemale in pain posted:

i think most people who are doing sports for fun just generally use bonking out as a term when you're super hungry and tired and need a 5 minute break to eat a snack bar, not some athletes definition of hitting a wall and being completetely unable to continue.

This. "Bonk" is the new "literally".

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