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I used to wrench on upside down bikes for the longest time until I got hydraulic brakes and learned the hard way that air bubbles float upward. Doesn't always happen, but can. Jula has a bike stand that's robust enough for e-bikes that works well enough for the price. The caveat is you might not be able to easily clamp your bike so it balances well with that particular frame style.
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Apr 10, 2024 13:09
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Invalido posted:I used to wrench on upside down bikes for the longest time until I got hydraulic brakes and learned the hard way that air bubbles float upward. Doesn't always happen, but can. Worth looking into, flipping the bike isn't exactly ideal for other reasons as well...
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Apr 10, 2024 13:21
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Since chain lube has come up, quick reminder that you shouldn't just slather it on the outside. Take a couple minutes to slowly go link by link and pop a drop of it into the gaps of each linkage. The parts that rub and really need the lube are on the inside of the chain
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Apr 10, 2024 13:22
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Sentient Data posted:Since chain lube has come up, quick reminder that you shouldn't just slather it on the outside. Take a couple minutes to slowly go link by link and pop a drop of it into the gaps of each linkage. The parts that rub and really need the lube are on the inside of the chain Also clean the outside of the chain with a rag once you're done.
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Apr 10, 2024 13:57
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Sentient Data posted:Since chain lube has come up, quick reminder that you shouldn't just slather it on the outside. Take a couple minutes to slowly go link by link and pop a drop of it into the gaps of each linkage. The parts that rub and really need the lube are on the inside of the chain While I do delicately oil my chain link by link with silca synergetic oil, there no need for this; it’s oil, it will get into everywhere it needs to. Just leave it overnight then wipe off. There is no surface tension, it will spread over everything.
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Apr 10, 2024 15:28
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wooger posted:While I do delicately oil my chain link by link with silca synergetic oil, there no need for this; it’s oil, it will get into everywhere it needs to. Just leave it overnight then wipe off. Yeah, but less waste I imagine if done roller by roller.
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Apr 10, 2024 15:37
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TheFluff posted:Worth looking into, flipping the bike isn't exactly ideal for other reasons as well... https://www.jula.se/catalog/fritid/cykel/reservdelar-och-underhall/verktyg/mekstall-639447/ The only thing I had to fix was putting a few short screws in it to fix the rubber liners to the frame clamp (they like to fall off), also tossing the little parts/tools table in the bin so it folds up smaller. It works great for my e-bike and bro's too, which is significantly heavier than mine. The only way I can see you clamp that bike is around the seat tube though, so if it hangs way off balance there odds are it will always be really askew when you use the stand. The whole exercise is pretty pointless if you cant keep both wheels off the floor and have the bike at least more or less horizontal.
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Apr 10, 2024 16:53
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Invalido posted:I used to have a board with som blocks with divots to support the grips only to spare all the other doodads on the bars. But when I figured out the bubbles thing I got this thing (it's even on sale right now) Yeah, I looked at this after your previous post, but after lifting my bike by the saddle post I'm not sure how well it would work. The basket in the front makes it really front heavy when lifted from there. It's a great price though, so it's very tempting...
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Apr 10, 2024 20:09
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Seo farm page, but few examples of the type of thing you can use. Make measurements of your tubes so you know what size you need, and remember to look at the weight limits of the bar you pick out https://pedalstreet.com/best-bike-frame-adapter-bar/ E: contact the bike company and see if there's a particular adapter they recommend, they work on the bike all the time after all. They're bound to have specialized gear at the factory but they probably have a good idea Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Apr 10, 2024 |
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Apr 10, 2024 20:18
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TheFluff posted:Yeah, I looked at this after your previous post, but after lifting my bike by the saddle post I'm not sure how well it would work. The basket in the front makes it really front heavy when lifted from there. It's a great price though, so it's very tempting... You tested the balance with the battery removed, right? You could compensate for the front weight by adding a couple of kilos to the rear rack once it's up off the floor to balance thing out a bit I guess. Once you remove wheels things are likely to shift a bit too anyway.
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Apr 10, 2024 20:24
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Invalido posted:You tested the balance with the battery removed, right? Yeah, battery removed. But an adapter bar might work quite well like Sentient Data suggests. Asking the guys at the bike shop or the dealership might not be a bad idea either, although they'll probably recommend a name brand thing.
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Apr 10, 2024 20:29
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Spent an hour trying to re-align the derailleur hanger on my (axs) bike after noticing shifting getting progressively worse. Managed to get the shifting smoother and it was aligned to within a couple of mm at the rim in 3 90° positions. Still though, the highest gear had gone out of the range of the micro adjust (despite the shifting being better overall). Gave up and used the spare hanger I had, and now shifting is perfect and the microadjust is in the middle of the range. Obviously it was still misaligned somehow but it seemed like a complete lateral shift? I was using the aliexpress special ztto hag-5 to do the alignment, just wondering if it's the tool or my method for aligning the hanger. Was just using the park tool video but maybe it's outdated when it says 3mm is enough tolerance for good shifting
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Apr 14, 2024 15:33
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If you have an aluminum hanger (which it usually is) I wouldn't bend it back to shape as you risk the hanger snapping in half when you least expect it. That tool is just for checking unless it's a steel frame with non removable hangers.
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Apr 14, 2024 17:20
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Havana Affair posted:If you have an aluminum hanger (which it usually is) I wouldn't bend it back to shape as you risk the hanger snapping in half when you least expect it. That tool is just for checking unless it's a steel frame with non removable hangers. lol what? You better tell every bike shop ever that they’re doing it wrong
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Apr 14, 2024 17:36
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:lol what? You better tell every bike shop ever that they’re doing it wrong It's done on aluminium hangers as an expedient but it's definitely not good as new after and should be changed E: tbh I usually just remove it from the frame, flatten it in the bench vise and it's close enough to ride
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Apr 14, 2024 18:49
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:lol what? You better tell every bike shop ever that they’re doing it wrong How many have you had snap after bending? It's more than one for me. Hangers are also very cheap. Can you guess how I know the price?
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Apr 14, 2024 20:24
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Havana Affair posted:How many have you had snap after bending? It's more than one for me. Hangers are also very cheap. Can you guess how I know the price? I've never snapped a removable aluminum hanger as a result of using a hanger alignment tool.
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Apr 15, 2024 02:10
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Once you have the tool and actually start checking, you discover pretty quickly that even brand new derailleur hangers don't mean that the alignment is perfect. Not all dropouts are created equal, and paint is the great un-leveler. Maybe my experience is weird because I've spent a lot of time with cheap bikes, but they're rarely perfect even with nice new Wheels Mfg hangers. A little tweak is just fine on 6061, which is all you're doing with a derailleur hanger alignment gauge.
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Apr 15, 2024 02:16
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To be clear what the risk actually is: if the hanger is so bent shifting doesn't work it has received an impact. If you bend it back to shape you weaken it and next time it gets hit it's more likely to snap instead of bending. A brand new hanger getting adjusted a few millimeters is of course a lot safer as it's being bent only for the first time.
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Apr 15, 2024 04:39
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Havana Affair posted:To be clear what the risk actually is: if the hanger is so bent shifting doesn't work it has received an impact. If you bend it back to shape you weaken it and next time it gets hit it's more likely to snap instead of bending. A brand new hanger getting adjusted a few millimeters is of course a lot safer as it's being bent only for the first time. What's that buzzing noise? Oh it's all this backpedaling.
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Apr 15, 2024 11:24
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What are some easy troubleshooting things I can do for hydraulic brakes before I take it to the shop? My gravel bike is the first bike I've owned with hydraulics and the rear brakes have gotten super soft but the front brakes are fine. Not sure how to even start with these.
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Apr 16, 2024 17:40
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The Fool posted:What are some easy troubleshooting things I can do for hydraulic brakes before I take it to the shop? You can look for leaks in the system at either the caliper (maybe take the pads out and look at the pistons if you don't see any obvious signs of fluid) or potentially under the hood on the lever. Mineral oil is easier to spot since it doesn't evaporate much.
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Apr 16, 2024 18:11
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Is there any good resource for identifying conversion kits for old DT Swiss hubs? Their website tool only really works for newer stuff. I've got my eye on a second hand Shimano XT 12 speed groupset but my rear wheel is an old DT240s 135x10mm hub and I can't find any kits that'll do 10mm microspline. I think I saw an XD conversion and it looks like there are some HG 12 speed cassettes around if I don't mind losing the 10t.
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Apr 18, 2024 12:21
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Yeep posted:Is there any good resource for identifying conversion kits for old DT Swiss hubs? Their website tool only really works for newer stuff. I've got my eye on a second hand Shimano XT 12 speed groupset but my rear wheel is an old DT240s 135x10mm hub and I can't find any kits that'll do 10mm microspline. I think I saw an XD conversion and it looks like there are some HG 12 speed cassettes around if I don't mind losing the 10t. Your best bet is absolutely to email DT Swiss I think.
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Apr 18, 2024 14:38
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The right shifter on my bike (2017 Cannondale CAADX 105 w/ mechanical discs) finally poo poo the bed. I think these are 105-R5800 components and it looks like the 105-R7000 components are compatible. I get get a new pair for $200ish via eBay/Amazon, shipped from China. Is that the way to go, or is the a reputable source state-side for not that much more?
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Apr 18, 2024 21:32
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Easychair Bootson posted:The right shifter on my bike (2017 Cannondale CAADX 105 w/ mechanical discs) finally poo poo the bed. I think these are 105-R5800 components and it looks like the 105-R7000 components are compatible. I get get a new pair for $200ish via eBay/Amazon, shipped from China. Is that the way to go, or is the a reputable source state-side for not that much more? Don’t buy bike components from eBay / Amazon, they are not real.
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Apr 18, 2024 21:46
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wooger posted:Don’t buy bike components from eBay / Amazon, they are not real. That was my concern. Any suggestions on where to source a pair of 105-R7000 levers? Or a single right 105-R5800?
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Apr 18, 2024 22:42
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Easychair Bootson posted:That was my concern. Any suggestions on where to source a pair of 105-R7000 levers? Or a single right 105-R5800? Unsure on their shipping policy, but the first google result is this megadeal: https://www.merlincycles.com/shiman...ers&ucpo=212471
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Apr 18, 2024 22:51
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Left side is all they've got in stock 
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Apr 19, 2024 00:56
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Easychair Bootson posted:Left side is all they've got in stock Wow I never ever saw them for sale except as a pair before. I’d go for a used pair on Facebook marketplace personally, if you’re near some population centres with cycling people. Remember that you can replace the rubber covers for cheap to make them look fresh.
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Apr 19, 2024 11:05
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I just noticed a rubbing noise from my rear-wheel and noticed it didn't seem to be spinning true. When I looked closer I found a loose spoke and as soon as I touched it it detached at one end, What would be the fix here ? I'm a total newb at bike maintenance outside tyres/tubs/oil, so I'd likely take it to a bike shop. Is that spoke broken or simply unthreaded ? I'm guessing its meant to have more thread and is broken. Would this have likely caused other issues with the wheel (i.e it doesn't seem to spin true to my uninformed eye) ?
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Apr 20, 2024 16:48
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Baconroll posted:
Yeah, some of the threaded part snapped off in the nipple. The tire and tube need to be unmounted to get access to pull out the old nipple.  Depending on the design of your hub, you might have to pull the wheel off and maybe cassette to get clearance to put the spoke in. quote:Would this have likely caused other issues with the wheel (i.e it doesn't seem to spin true to my uninformed eye) ? Yes, each spoke carries tension in it, and the net effect gives a wheel its strength. When just one lets go, the other spokes pull the rim off true.
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Apr 20, 2024 17:08
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kimbo305 posted:Yeah, some of the threaded part snapped off in the nipple. The tire and tube need to be unmounted to get access to pull out the old nipple. Thanks of the info - I'm guessing this was caused by me. I've probably done 1000+ miles on the bike and check the tyre pressure every week, but I've never checked the spokes are tight - so as part of regular maintenance how should I be checking/maintaining the spokes ?
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Apr 20, 2024 18:34
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You could check once a quarter (by plucking adjacent spokes and listening for consistent pitch, or feeling play in extreme cases), but there’s no telling how quickly a spoke could loosen and fail. I personally check a couple hundred miles into a new set of wheels and don’t bother after unless I happen to have the wheel off for some other work.
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Apr 20, 2024 18:54
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Baconroll posted:Thanks of the info - I'm guessing this was caused by me. I've probably done 1000+ miles on the bike and check the tyre pressure every week, but I've never checked the spokes are tight - so as part of regular maintenance how should I be checking/maintaining the spokes ? Don't start tensioning spokes without knowing what you're doing because you'll absolutely make things worse. It's a job for an experienced mechanic, pro or with years of doing their own maintenance. The usual check for spokes being unevenly tensioned is seeing if the wheel is running true or not.
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Apr 21, 2024 18:12
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Can anyone help me out with search terms to replace the below chainrings and the bolts that hold them together? I'm ok with 52/36, but not sure on mounts You can see where I've had to replace one already, and now missing another. Does that mean the 'spider' is threaded and now stuffed too? BB30 if it matters.
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Apr 22, 2024 12:26
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Use the BCD at the bottom. 120/90. Then just buy whatever size rings you want (52/36 etc)
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Apr 22, 2024 14:14
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Easychair Bootson posted:The right shifter on my bike (2017 Cannondale CAADX 105 w/ mechanical discs) finally poo poo the bed. I think these are 105-R5800 components and it looks like the 105-R7000 components are compatible. I get get a new pair for $200ish via eBay/Amazon, shipped from China. Is that the way to go, or is the a reputable source state-side for not that much more? I was frustrated that I couldn't find the part that I needed so I watched a couple of youtube videos and started fiddling with my shifter. It turns out that the cable broke within the shifter and jammed up the works. I spent about an hour with a hand pick set trying to fish out the debris, slowly taking more poo poo apart, waiting for the inevitable moment of "oh poo poo I went too far it's junk now" but to my surprise I got everything out and the shifter is functional again. A quick trip to my cyclist buddy's house and we had a new cable in and it's back to working.
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Apr 23, 2024 00:24
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weighing my options for what to do about the fork on my commuter, a 2016-2018ish Koga Confidence. The rubber gaiter protecting the suspension cracked and water has been getting in, leading to rust and loss of travel. So I pulled the fork off to take it apart and get it cleaned, and planned to patch the gaiter from inside. Unfortunately as I was trying to remove the front fender, I snapped the retaining bolt on the left side. I used penetrating oil, gave it some taps, and used a dremel to cut a notch in the center and quickly stripped the notch out with a flat-head. Then I tried more penetrating oil, a heat gun, a new notch and patiently tapping it out counter-clockwise with a hammer and scribe/awl. Then I made the notch bigger and tried vice-grip pliers and broke the notch off. Now I have a stub. It's too small for any of my reverse-threaded drill bits, and I don't trust my setup at all to safely and accurately drill it out.     The only Koga dealer within 2 hours of me that has an exact match OEM fork for replacement wants 300 CHF ($330 USD) for it. How should I proceed? Should I start hitting up all the metal shops and garages in the city to see if one can extract the bolt for a reasonable price? Should I be looking into 3rd-party rigid forks?
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Apr 23, 2024 13:21
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Yeah I'd call around a couple of your LBS's first to see if you can get a bike tech on it, and if that's a bust then call around some machine shops that specialize in automotive work, something like this is easy for them to extract with a drill press
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Apr 23, 2024 14:13
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