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Invalido posted:I've chased bubbles in all the ways I could think of, including removing hose and caliper from the bike and orienting it in a way that would allow bubbles to float upward to the caliper, Isn’t this backwards? As in, you usually chase bubbles up to the brake lever on bikes.
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Jan 10, 2024 23:29
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My intuition is that the hose to the front brake on a bakfiets isn’t all that much longer than the hose to the rear brake on a normal bike, e.g. an nice touring bike in size XXL. No one says “Rear brakes feel bad because of the longer line. That’s just how it is.” So I would look elsewhere for the source of the problem.
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Jan 11, 2024 10:41
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Platystemon posted:My intuition is that the hose to the front brake on a bakfiets isn’t all that much longer than the hose to the rear brake on a normal bike, e.g. an nice touring bike in size XXL. Edit: I just spent some time googling thread pitches and stuff and that seems way to complicated, no adapters between bike and car stuff available that I can find. On the other hand I live in a metric country and can fairly easily get 5mm OD brake tubing (same dimension as standard bike brake hose), so in the event I ever end up trying the hardline route that's probably the way to go. Could be that standard olives work just fine, though I'll likely have to turn up some fitting supporting insert pins on the lathe since the ID is probably too big. Fiddly but seems doable. Invalido fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 11:53
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Can you unbolt the caliper and bleed it as low to the ground as you can, and raise the brake as high as possible on the bike? To smooth out the path between the two for easier bubble path?
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Jan 11, 2024 14:05
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And if that's impossible with your setup, what about unmounting the hose and caliper to lift the complete brake system in the air without needing to lift the whole cargo bike?
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Jan 11, 2024 14:18
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Yeah that's pretty easy. There's a sizeable vertical drop right next to where I park it outdoors, though not enough to go fully vertical. Good idea. I could just bench bleed it too, in the staircase or something, there's no routing issues with mounting the whole assembly on the bike already filled. That's probably what I'll do since it's cold outside.
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Jan 11, 2024 14:21
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You don't need to hardline a bicycle... this is by far the silliest thing I've seen on this forum in years, the high end of pressure in automotive braking systems with brake boosters etc can be 1200-2000psi, it's a completely different animal. I run intentionally long hoses on my XL MTB for heat mass...and laziness, and I assure you the scale at which you'd notice sponginess from the hose length is probably 3-4x the current length of your hoses, if not more.
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Jan 11, 2024 15:39
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VelociBacon posted:, the high end of pressure in automotive braking systems with brake boosters etc can be 1200-2000psi, it's a completely different animal. Full power ham fisted braking on a bike is 2-3k psi.
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Jan 11, 2024 16:38
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taqueso posted:Full power ham fisted braking on a bike is 2-3k psi. On a bicycle or a motorcycle?
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Jan 11, 2024 17:15
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I just got home from work and realized I have a micrometer and a bicycle, so I measured. Sure enough, there's measurable hose expansion at pressure. Not much, only about 2 micrometers at full ham fist near as I can tell (I had to strap the handle down since the measurement required both hands) and it's small enough that I had to repeat several times to be sure, but it's there. How much it matters is up for debate. If my math is right (assuming a 2.1mm ID, and that the ID increase is the same as the OD increase - doubtful about this) it means a bit less than a percent of volume increase in the tube from whatever it was before expansion, and a volume increase in 3 meters of hose of about 0.1cc. Those are my numbers, feel free to correct them or disregard them entirely.
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Jan 11, 2024 17:27
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VelociBacon posted:On a bicycle or a motorcycle? Bicycle. I got curious about this and asked a sram mtb brake design engineer a few months ago. Normal braking is around 500 psi, max power braking 2000-3000. taqueso fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jan 13, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 17:28
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Invalido posted:I just got home from work and realized I have a micrometer and a bicycle, so I measured. Sure enough, there's measurable hose expansion at pressure. Not much, only about 2 micrometers at full ham fist near as I can tell (I had to strap the handle down since the measurement required both hands) and it's small enough that I had to repeat several times to be sure, but it's there. How much it matters is up for debate. If my math is right (assuming a 2.1mm ID, and that the ID increase is the same as the OD increase - doubtful about this) it means a bit less than a percent of volume increase in the tube from whatever it was before expansion, and a volume increase in 3 meters of hose of about 0.1cc. Those are my numbers, feel free to correct them or disregard them entirely. Did you measure front and rear expansion? Are they the same expansion even though you (and not sure you claimed this) get better braking feel/performance from the rear brake? And what length difference is there front vs rear?
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Jan 11, 2024 18:34
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Platystemon posted:My intuition is that the hose to the front brake on a bakfiets isn’t all that much longer than the hose to the rear brake on a normal bike, e.g. an nice touring bike in size XXL. On my hopes, not so much.
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Jan 11, 2024 18:38
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kimbo305 posted:Did you measure front and rear expansion? Are they the same expansion even though you (and not sure you claimed this) get better braking feel/performance from the rear brake? Nah, this measurement was on my commuter bike with nice brakes, I just wanted a reality check to see wether hose flex is a thing or not. I wanted to check the bakfiets too but it's been sitting all winter because of a wrist injury and I can't get a firm brake lever on the front right now. Guessing the leaky caliper has something to do with that. Maybe the master cylinder is hosed too, so I'm replacing both. I spent a bunch of effort rebuilding the thing last winter with major frame repair (rust), new paint, new box, new center stand and a bunch of replacement components - the only things making it not a great bike at the moment apart from the weather is the brake and a lovely (though new) bottom bracket so I really should get those sorted. It's not the greatest winter bike but it sits on studs and I like using it for at least local errands even in the snow so it's time to get off my rear end and order some parts.
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Jan 11, 2024 18:57
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Invalido posted:It's some deore XT model or other both caliper and lever. The caliper has started leaking and needs replacing so I thought this was a good time to fix whatever needs fixing to get this to work right finally. I guess I'll give the long hose another shot and do a very thorough bleeding procedure. Again.
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Jan 12, 2024 13:37
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The tandem rear crankset (tripple) has a total of 10mm of spacers on the axle. If I remove all the spacers and put in a double crankset the chainrings would rub both chainstays. I have gotten hold of two cranksets and have made an extended the axle by cutting and welding two axles together. I have made up an internal sleeve to hold the two axles together and have had them tig welded together. Will I die
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Jan 18, 2024 21:31
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mikemelbrooks posted:The tandem rear crankset (tripple) has a total of 10mm of spacers on the axle. If I remove all the spacers and put in a double crankset the chainrings would rub both chainstays. I have gotten hold of two cranksets and have made an extended the axle by cutting and welding two axles together. I have made up an internal sleeve to hold the two axles together and have had them tig welded together. Will I die It's just a tandem it's not like there will be any load on the components
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Jan 18, 2024 23:44
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I aimed the parts cannon at the cargo bike over the weekend. New bottom bracket (dumb word, it should be called crank bearing or something similar). New handle and caliper on the front brake and a new caliper at the rear too since it was pretty corroded and probably not long for this world. I bled everything on the bench and it seems to have worked, everything feels about as firm as I would expect. Front is still slightly spongier than the rear but not dramatically so, better that ever probably. I need a new bleed kit because the syringe is leaking past the piston under pressure and made a mess and the reservoir cup thing has damaged threads so I had to strap it down with rubber bands. Also I found I have a warped rotor up front (I'm pretty sure I know how that happened) so I'll need to true that up or replace it before I bed those pads in - it wasn't possible to do today regardless because the nearby streets and bike lanes are real snowy and icy. I made it to the nearby recycling place with a load or garbage anyways and everything felt good apart from the racket the brake rotor was making and some funky brake handle angles that need adjustment. I'm calling this a preliminary success.
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Jan 21, 2024 21:20
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I'm glad you figured out that front brake fuckiness
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Jan 22, 2024 19:46
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yeah I'm glad too, provided the brakes actually stop the bike the way I hope they will. I have a new brake rotor now so I should be able to test that as soon as the road conditions aren't abysmal.
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Jan 22, 2024 20:10
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Apologies for the hastily taken video, but does anyone know what could be causing this clicking sound coming from my kickr core? I took the cover off to see if anything was interfering with the belt, but there doesn't seem to be. It occurs under and without load, though it is particularly noticeable at a lower rpm. It also doesn't matter whether the cassette is on or off, the QR skewer is in or out etc https://imgur.com/a/DrJLyH6
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Jan 26, 2024 12:58
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I've got a thru-axle bike with a carbon fork and *also* want a front rack. It's got mounts, but I perpetually see the "dont put a rack on a carbon fork" advice. Between it being a heavy chinese carbon fork (state monster fork) and it having the mounts, I'm tempted to just run with it and see how it goes. I don't think I'm likely to be overloading it at all. I've got a Soma Lucas 3 rack floating around I was thinking of using. Option 1.5 is picking up the robert axle project/old man mountain fit kit and trying to adapt their thru axle to a different rack. Does anybody know what kind of thread/geometry is happening with the old man mountain thru axle, or ever tried to use one with a not-old man mountain rack? It does look like their racks actually fit over the extended part of the axle, which I wouldn't be able to duplicate. I'd end up mounting with just a screw in shear (though that's how every other rack mounts) to the tip of the extended thru-axle.
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Jan 27, 2024 15:01
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There's a dude I know in town who, after living a few years in the Netherlands, really enjoys biking for transportation when the weather makes it comfortable enough. He is also a very large powerful human, having been my state's strongest man for many years running and now being a powerlifting and strongman coach. He's been riding a cargo bike and it needs some maintenance but is unwilling to go to the only local shop after multiple terrible experiences there, so I told him I'd do cables and bearings and stuff for cost of parts and a six pack. His wheels are also allegedly very beat up and out of true, and he wants to replace them with something that will hold up to the weight and poor road conditions. What should I be looking for in helping him pick new wheels? I assume a high spoke count with heavy spokes, looking up randonneuring or cargo bike wheels might be helpful, but is there anything in particular I should look for to find what he needs? I'm not 100% sure what his wheel size is but once I know I'd like to be able to look up and recommend wheels quickly and easily for him.
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Jan 27, 2024 23:09
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:I assume a high spoke count with heavy spokes You want butted spokes that have a wider tension range for stress cycling without being subject to fatiguing. Those are generally lighter. In any case, you don't want straight gauge spokes for strength. Any quality wheel will be using those. I'd probably not mess with 40h wheels just cuz the hubs are rarer.
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Jan 27, 2024 23:24
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Handbuilt wheels would be the best or at least I'd have someone check the spoke tensions on the wheelset. If the bike has disc brakes and there's enough room going to a smaller wheelsize and a bigger tyre would result in a stronger wheel and a bigger air spring to protect it.
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Jan 28, 2024 07:09
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Unless you want to be his bike shop in the future when things go wrong, it might be a better idea to find the closest place willing to do the assembly and fitting and make sure the build goes through them. When you're pushing the limit of what a bike is designed to handle, you're going to need a lot more regular maintenance and tweaks
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Jan 28, 2024 11:27
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What is e-bike specific chain lube  Lubes Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 11:58 on Jan 28, 2024 |
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Jan 28, 2024 11:54
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Combat Pretzel posted:What is e-bike specific chain lube Probably just better for higher torque. Personally I would worry too much about finding lube specifically for ebikes.
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Jan 28, 2024 12:16
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Lex Neville posted:Apologies for the hastily taken video, but does anyone know what could be causing this clicking sound coming from my kickr core? I took the cover off to see if anything was interfering with the belt, but there doesn't seem to be. It occurs under and without load, though it is particularly noticeable at a lower rpm. It also doesn't matter whether the cassette is on or off, the QR skewer is in or out etc Seems to be tied to one revolution of the input shaft or idler. Unfortunately I'd guess that's internal to the unit. Warranty?
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Jan 28, 2024 16:31
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Can you plug the new shimano 12 speed derailleurs directly to a pc or do you need some type of box in between? edit. to answer my own question, you need to buy a PC interface box Withnail fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Jan 30, 2024 |
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Jan 28, 2024 16:57
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Withnail posted:Can you plug the new shimano 12 speed derailleurs directly to a pc or do you need some type of box in between? Ahahahahahahaha what a loving world cycling has become
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Jan 28, 2024 17:38
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It's loving ridiculous. I'm literally password locked out of my rear derailleur right now.
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Jan 28, 2024 23:06
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Still love the car though
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Jan 29, 2024 00:13
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Does anyone in the Pacific Northwest or some other rainy climate have a favorite chain lube? There’s just an insane amount of options, I should probably just get any wet lube but wanted to see if there was some consensus choice for super wet weather? Someone mentioned A.T.B to me at some point, but I haven’t found much info on it yet: https://rocknroadcyclery.com/products/atb-lube-4oz
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Jan 29, 2024 00:56
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frogbs posted:Does anyone in the Pacific Northwest or some other rainy climate have a favorite chain lube? There’s just an insane amount of options, I should probably just get any wet lube but wanted to see if there was some consensus choice for super wet weather? I bike commute in Seattle and as dumb as it may sound: I like drip wax. I've tried drat near anything, and even the stuff that stays effective for a long time (silca synergetic, rock n roll gold) accumulates insane amounts of gunk. With drip wax I wipe the chain off when I get home, reapply some wax, and it's good to go. Its small amounts of daily upkeep in the rainy season to avoid major upkeep efforts, since it just never gets awful gunky greasy. Not for everyone, but that's where I've landed.
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Jan 29, 2024 04:30
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bicievino posted:I bike commute in Seattle and as dumb as it may sound: I like drip wax. Just out of curiosity, have you tried the melted paraffin wax thing yet, or just drip wax?
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Jan 29, 2024 05:53
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Mederlock posted:Just out of curiosity, have you tried the melted paraffin wax thing yet, or just drip wax? Yeah. I run that on all my race bikes, and will (rarely) do it on my commuter, but I ain't doing that every day. It lasts maybe a day longer in rainy conditions, so not enough to be worth the extra hassle.
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Jan 29, 2024 05:55
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Why the gently caress is the 12V supply on the loving drive side of the motor unit on E6100 drive units? To disconnect my lights I now have to remove the crank and pull the ring before I can take the casing off to expose the terminals. Whoever designed this, gently caress you.
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Jan 29, 2024 17:54
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bicievino posted:I bike commute in Seattle and as dumb as it may sound: I like drip wax. I’d also factor in how far are you going?, how much do you care about the bike being clean ever?, is it a beater, or your main everything bike that needs to work well outside of the commute? A wipe at the end of every commute with a microfibre cloth, a top up with Silca oil every 2 weeks will keep things workable for months. But if you care about the performance or drivetrain wear or the bike looking clean, a regular full wash and chain flush with solvents (ideally off the bike) will be more work, making things like wax more justifiable. I moved my nice winter bike, for group rides & long distance stuff, to wax this year; immersion & drip. It’s worked fine, I’ve no issues with rusting. I’m presumably spending a little more money on drip wax than I was on oil lube, but less time in the cold and wet degreasing chains. There are a couple of wet weather specific drip waxes now, Tru Tension bananaslip tungsten all weather (cheap in the UK, I’ve tested it once), and UFO drip wet conditions ($$$). More oily than normal hard wax, a bit less clean, maybe worth it. And ZFC approved. For my usage, topping up an immersion waxed chain when / before the wax is gone, the big appeal of the Tru Tension product is the claimed 5 minutes to dry, vs overnight for every other drip wax of note. That means multi day/night Audax rides of 600km plus can be done with wax lube, topped up in short breaks when needed. Or just rescuing a bike with a waxed chain that you forgot to lube the night before, without resorting to oil. wooger fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Jan 30, 2024 |
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Jan 29, 2024 19:43
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amenenema posted:Seems to be tied to one revolution of the input shaft or idler. Unfortunately I'd guess that's internal to the unit. Warranty? Wahoo support just now: "Might be the belt tensioner pulley or the axle key of the flywheel." They'll be picking up the trainer the day after tomorrow and sending me a new one as soon as that is on its way. I'll probably have the new one 2-3 work days after that. Purchase was 27 augustus 2021, so I believe it's technically out of warranty. All in all, I'm happy
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Jan 31, 2024 14:38
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