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FogHelmut posted:It costs less? I have to bin most traditional clincher tires long before the tread wears out. With tubeless tires, I almost always wear them down to the cord. Also there is some dollar amount tied to less often having to repair a flat as the sun is setting and the temp is dropping. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Aug 3, 2020 |
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Aug 3, 2020 00:42
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FogHelmut posted:Do the rims cost less? Cheaper speced bikes often come with tube rims and tires. I mean technically with enough tape and sealant anything is tubeless. Just looked. Something like a $799 Trek FX 3 comes with tubeless wheels.
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Aug 3, 2020 06:40
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nm posted:Chukkers don't do tubeless. Seems like it would be 50/50 depending on the goal of the tour. Considering how many times Francis/James/Lawrence flatted on their tour from San Diego to Seattle, I think they should have gone tubeless. They insist that tubeless wouldn't have been worth it in the desert, but I kinda think it would have been as long as one of them carried a shop bottle of Orange Seal. As always, it's best to check set-ups for weird issues before a big tour/ride. I'm sure there are easy to mount big tire combos. You can always use something like a KOM Cycling syringe to suck sealant out of a tire for travel, then deflate the tire. Also I think it's a pretty low number of people who tour on tires that wide in general?
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Aug 3, 2020 09:42
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Flatland Crusoe posted:
Some sealants like Bontrager TLR just never clog valves at all. Orange Seal can clog valves, but it's not hard to deal with. Take an old spoke or similar and ream the inside of the valve stem. Also just a reminded to never inflate your tubeless tires with the valves at 6 o'clock. Do it from 4 or 8 o'clock.
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Aug 4, 2020 06:02
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I wouldn't say there's great synergy between latex-based sealants and butyl tubes, but Slime and other brands have made a business out of it for a couple decades. Latex-based sealants work better with latex tubes, but I wouldn't pre-fill a latex tube with sealant because it works a little too well. If you let a latex tube fully deflate/collapse, the sealant will pretty much glue the walls of the tube together, and since latex tubes deflate over a few days, it can be a chore to keep them inflated. An option would be to carry a small sample-sized 2oz or 4oz bottle in your tool roll or saddle bag and inject the sealant after the puncture takes place.
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Aug 4, 2020 09:08
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beep-beep car is go posted:I bought myself a Covid bike during lockdown to get back into riding and be able to ride with my kids. Just a GT from Richards(Dicks) and I’m not expecting much out of it, but it was cheap and the components seem decent, and it got good reviews from third party bike sites - mostly in the U.K. for some reason. I adjusted the brakes and derailleur after getting it but about a month into it, I noticed a creaking from around the BB area. I could take it to a LBS but: If you suspect the BB, it's almost never the BB. If you don't suspect the BB, it's the BB. That's just how it goes. It could be anything with a new bike. Seatpost clamp, saddle clamp, chainring bolts, various drivetrain bits, pedal spindles, etc. Check all those things before you mess with the BB. Especially make sure there is grease on seatpost where it is clamped. Also even low-end GTs are legitimate bicycles and not bike-shaped-objects, so there is that. Obviously I'd prefer to give money to a local bike shop that doesn't suck, but you gotta take what you can get right now.
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Aug 5, 2020 00:44
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Also get an adjustable torque key of some sort that goes from 4 to 6 n-m or thereabouts for all the 3-4-5mm hex and T25 bolts on your bike.
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Aug 5, 2020 03:46
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FogHelmut posted:I guess tubeless is that good that it's worth carrying all the extra kit? Unless your tire+rim combo sucks, you won't need to reseat a bead. And even if you did, you can always put a tube in there. Why would I need a spare valve stem, valve core or sealant? I've never broken a valve stem or core midride. If I did, I'd just insert a tube. Why would I need extra sealant? If the puncture is spewing sealant everywhere and you keep riding, you're a goof. Stop, see if it seals by pointing the puncture down and putting your finger over the leak. If not, insert a plug. If the plugs fail, insert a tube. My kit is literally a minipump, dynaplugs and a spare tube. I use tires that I can mount/unmount by hand, so I don't even bring levers. My tire boot is a dollar bill. I don't bring patches on the majority of rides. If my ride goes that lovely, I'll call for someone to pick me up. Most of this is complerely unnecessary unless this is for touring / long-distance.
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Aug 8, 2020 06:09
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rngd in the womb posted:
It's almost surely the tire. Add more sealant and ride it more so the casing becomes less porous. With 38s, I'd use at least 60mL of sealant in each tire.
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Aug 8, 2020 06:13
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:I keep seeing people say this and I was super worried when my GP4k II's got some wear and minor gouges, but I've yet to ever see any negative effects hundreds of miles later and it has me wondering if the concerns about GP4Ks are true in the land of "My anecdote vs your anecdote." You either get torn sidewalls all the time or you never do. Suffice to say, I am in the former group. Also re: Corsas. I got 4000mi out of a rear mounted 30mm Vittoria Corsa Control that was ridden in dozens of NorCal road races...aka the shittiest central valley roads imaginable. Pretty much any other tire I use gets worn to the casing in 2500mi or so. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Aug 18, 2020 |
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Aug 18, 2020 04:02
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LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:Guessing tubeless makes a bigger difference there than tire brand and make. 90% sure sealant would have sealed all my flats they were that small. I'm considering going tubeless but I've heard it's bad to run TL tires of hooked rims because of the low contact area between the bead and rim? How big a risk is that? At this point the only reasons not to run road tubeless are: 1) You don’t want to risk sealant staining work clothes if you commute by bike. 2) Your annual mileage is low. 3) You want to keep using existing non tubeless-ready wheels/rims for the time being.
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Aug 18, 2020 09:03
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DELETE CASCADE posted:i've got another reason: that poo poo's a pain in the rear end and i don't want to deal with it Flatting is a bigger pain in the rear end to me.
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Aug 18, 2020 21:25
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I'm at a strange crossroad. Show us the rim because any significant uncontrolled “bending” to an alloy rim means you should trash it.
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Aug 18, 2020 21:27
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Also when taping up rims, make sure to use enough tension that you're actually slightly stretching the tape.
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Aug 19, 2020 04:18
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Yes.
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Aug 20, 2020 12:12
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FogHelmut posted:I'm reading now this stuff is exactly the same as Stan's - https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-Strapping-Tape-8896/dp/B00C0Z1Z5C/ 3M 8896 is not Stan’s but it’s been widely used. 3M 3398 is also used. Tesa 4289 is Stan’s. Tesa 4298 is an alternative that is a little thinner. Kapton/polyimide tape has been used by some. But really everyone should just be using the green poly tape...either 3M 8992 or the generic equivalent. These are thin, have good strength, good elongation stretch and a silicone adhesive that doesn’t dissolve in water. Stan’s/Tesa uses an inferior “natural rubber” adhesive.
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Aug 21, 2020 22:59
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Shimano is generally one syringe and one threaded cup, but a syringe can be used too. The SRAM system is necessarily closed on both ends because DOT fluid is both hydrophilic and a caustic base. The second syringe is nice because you can agitate the system by pulling and pushing on the top plunger, releasing trapped air bubbles.
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Aug 27, 2020 09:06
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Pooper Hero posted:I wax my chain in a double boiler like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAyjdmbm0CY OzCycle is an idiot and uses roughly 10x too much PTFE. You can actually just use straight food grade paraffin and the performance will be within <1W of wax with any amount of lubricious micronized solids. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Sep 1, 2020 |
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Sep 1, 2020 23:26
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Mauser posted:I bought the first guy's recommendation because it was cheap and didn't involve a crockpot. What seam are we talking about here? Usually where air escapes on the inner edge of a rim isn’t actually the source of the leak. It’s just the path of least resistance for air that has already leaked into the hollow cavity of the rim. Use an appropriate amount of sealant (and the right sealant, Orange Seal) and slosh it around good. If that doesn’t address the leak, then redo your rim tape.
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Sep 2, 2020 00:44
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Mauser posted:Rim tape is brand new and was holding perfectly until I put it on the rack and drove 150 miles. The seam is where the two pieces of metal meet and come together on the rim and there's a sliver of a gap between the two ends. When I got to the destination it looked like all the sealant had blown its load, but let me seat it again and see if anything pops and then fill it up again. Oh, where the rim is sleeved. Hrmmm. Still it doesn’t seem like it should be an issue if the joint is covered mostly by tape, and the sides are covered by the bead. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Sep 2, 2020 |
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Sep 2, 2020 00:55
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Clean your drivetrain while you’re at it.
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Sep 6, 2020 05:18
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norp posted:I always do the valve section first but make sure my final section is somewhere 90-120° from there so the opposite side has some slack When we say opposite side, we don't mean the opposite bead, but instead another section of the same bead. By popping the bead into the rim at the valve, that bead automatically sits outside the center channel and that leaves you without precious fractions of a millimeter later on.
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Sep 12, 2020 00:38
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Generally referred to as the shell of the saddle.
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Sep 14, 2020 14:59
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nm posted:If it is square taper, octalink, or 24mm, there is no reason to buy anything better than a shimano sealed bearing BB, which should be like $30. Color coordination of a largely obscured component yo.
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Sep 17, 2020 08:47
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Mauser posted:I've been struggling to adjust the mechanical disc brakes on my front wheel aluminum frame toughroad and bike shops inevitably gently caress it up too. The issue seems to be that there is enough flex in the fork that when the brake pads sit tight against the rotor, turning or standing up to pedal bends the fork and the pads rub audibly. When I adjust them to not rub, it'll brake well enough, but it's not great. The fork leg almost always flexes more when leaning right, causing rub on the left pad. Increase the distance to the left pad and slightly decrease it to the right pad. Don’t aim for symmetry.
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Sep 20, 2020 17:44
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Dolemite posted:
It doesn’t just need cleaning, it needs new chainrings and a new chain. I shouldn’t be able to see daylight through gaps between the chain and teeth like that. Your big ring is done and the middle ring isn’t looking great either. I think the hinge of the FD is just rusty and dry af so the cage isn’t springing back down to the inboard position when you release the cable tension. Another possibility is the cable itself is experiencing a ton of friction in the housing or shifter body...or it’s just all chewed up inside the shifter body as often happens with Shimano. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 17:29
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Upon further inspection, the chainrings miiiight be ok, but I suspect they have been scalloped enough by your worn chain to warrant replacement. At the very least, the chain has to be replaced. 1) It is rusted to hell and 2) it is elongated well beyond 1%. The slightest bit of maintenance goes a long way. If you don’t want chains to wear out quickly, keep them clean and lubed. Dry off your bike if you’ve ridden in the rain and likewise store it in a dry place if possible.
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Sep 22, 2020 18:15
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MalleusDei posted:Thanks, some of the teeth looked a little shark finny, so I wanted a second opinion. On a 2x drivetrain, the big ring teeth will have different profiles to facilitate the upshift...this trips people out sometimes. The small ring's teeth should be uniform.
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Oct 2, 2020 08:53
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Xerox?? I still use ditto machines. The same people who use Connex and quick/master-link interchangeably probably also heard Orange Seal can seal anything and everything.
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Oct 3, 2020 04:45
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Orangutan’s No Tubes
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Oct 3, 2020 05:55
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Feels Villeneuve posted:is "eyeballing" seriously loose spoke tension to get a wheel like 80% in true likely to cause serious issues, or should I just LBS it Pick at the spoke like a guitar string and get it close in pitch to the other spokes on that particular side of the rim.
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Oct 3, 2020 18:16
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You can try gluing a boot to the inside then using flexible superglue or something like boat hull sealant on the outside, but that’s a pretty big slice.
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Oct 4, 2020 09:33
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Nice job, now throw that tire away.
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Oct 5, 2020 16:01
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At the very least you should use the boat hull sealant I mentioned. I believe it’s 3M 5200.
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Oct 5, 2020 23:50
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KOM Cycling style injector where the fitting actually goes inside the valve. The added benefit of this over the Stan’s syringe is you can suck up old sealant if needed (for storage.)
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Oct 13, 2020 23:08
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That big ring looks heavily sharktoothed (though it’s clearly not the reason for the drops.)
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Oct 14, 2020 14:15
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Rock My Socks! posted:Here are the cogs that skip (the smallest 3). I think they’re pretty worn? They don't look that worn to me, but if it's skipping, it's skipping. In the meantime, make sure the chain is the correct length and the derailleur cage isn't completely slack. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Nov 14, 2020 |
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Nov 14, 2020 01:05
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ExecuDork posted:This makes me happy I have mechanical brakes - I don't want self-adjusting, that implies the configuration is for somebody else's ideas of what my hands should be like and doing. I'm willing to accept I'm being weird about this, and that there are other big advantages to hydraulics (hence the higher price tag). Automatic pad distance adjustment won’t limit your ability to change the contact point / free stroke of your levers.
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Nov 27, 2020 07:17
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FireTora posted:Yeah, not much more you can do really then. It's partly from bending the housing making the strands go different distances. Installing the housing and then doing the final cut while it's as close to its final position as possible will probably minimize it since then all the strands will be slightly different lengths. Or full run of compressionless link housing if stuck on mechanical.
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Dec 9, 2020 09:16
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Dren posted:The original crank has a bit more depth to it so when i tighten it equally (just a guess, i don’t have a torque wrench) the gap’s a little smaller. There’s one of those shims in there but I’ll get more. There really should be hardly any gap at all, the wave washer should be almost completely compressed. Looks like an FSA Carbon Stages, so it should be bolted down to like 40n-m, which is a lot. Do not ride with it that loose unless you want a half dozen things to go wrong (premature spindle wear, bearing wear, drivetrain wear, bad shifting, ruining the splined interface, cranks literally falling off, etc.)
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Dec 30, 2020 11:07
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