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waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



The lockout on my rear shock no longer seems to do anything after having it serviced. Anything I should try before contacting the shoppe?

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waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



So…my rear derailleur (Ultegra group) no longer wants to shift down from the two biggest sprockets. It’ll switch between the two just fine, but won’t shift out any further. The downshift on the brifter just clicks and nothing else happens. The derailleur is lined up, as far as I can tell. I just ordered new shift cables/housing, but is there a good way to quickly determine if there’s also (or alternatively) a problem with the brifter?

A few days ago it was working but the shifting felt out of alignment and the rear was having trouble picking gears quickly. A week or two ago everything was fine.

waffle enthusiast fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jan 11, 2021

waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



Okay yeah, I pulled back the hood on the lever and it looks pretty chewed up in the slot. Also after fiddling with the cable some, the inner lever now plays completely free, no clicking. So it looks like the cable may have completely given up the ghost.

Thanks for the help. Now I just need to not gently caress up this internal cable routing :ohdear:

waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



Dangerllama posted:

Okay yeah, I pulled back the hood on the lever and it looks pretty chewed up in the slot. Also after fiddling with the cable some, the inner lever now plays completely free, no clicking. So it looks like the cable may have completely given up the ghost.

Thanks for the help. Now I just need to not gently caress up this internal cable routing :ohdear:

Trip report. The cable was chewed to poo poo. I had to remove the shifter just to get it out. Thanks thread!

waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



Okay so one more dumb question. Is there a trick to getting the front derailleur properly tensioned without two people? I got the rear tensioned up well, I think. But the front is giving me fits.

waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



marshalljim posted:

Very amateur take here, but I think the idea is to first position the derailleur partway through its range of travel and then tighten the nut that holds the cable. When you release the derailleur, its spring will then add additional tension to the cable.

Some derailleurs even come with removable plastic pieces that position them this way for initial setup. I've also seen people recommend that you stick a hex wrench or the like through the cage to hold it out by the middle chainring while snugging the cable and tightening the nut.

There are also "cable puller" tools that might do away with the need for this in cases where you aren't getting enough tension otherwise.

Yeah. That’s what I did. I set the shifter to it’s least-tension setting, held the derailleur over the big ring with my hand, pulled the cable through with my free hand, and then pinned it with my “derailleur hand.” Then I screwed it in.

Seems to have worked — I have the tension to where I think it’ll get sorted through the barrel adjuster — but I found myself thinking, “there has to be a better way.”

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waffle enthusiast
Nov 16, 2007



eSporks posted:

1) Use the low limit screw to push the derailleur outboard.
2) Then pull the cable tight and clamp tight enough to hold, but not loose enough to crimp.
3) Re-adjust the low limit screw.
4) Check tension BEFORE shifting. If you can't get the low limit to back off enough, release some tension carefully. If it feels slack with the low limit correctly adjusted, re-peat 1-4
5) Fully tighten the cable clamp and check shifting.

Thanks for this. I got the tension set to where I can shift between the big and little rings now, but bloody hell is getting the low, high, and trim set correctly some sort of black magic.

Progress :eng101:

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