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lol that coil thing is so stupid. just like you, i was sure i was missing something... "nah, that can't be a QR coil" 
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Jun 3, 2022 10:12
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i don't see why you would include the coil if you stick a QR skewer through just for maintenance purposes - i won't comment on whether that's something you should or shouldn't do in the first place, i wouldn't know. either way, i think they'd have to consciously add the coil to the end they're sticking through the frame before twisting the end cap on, and adding the coil makes little sense to me, let alone two...
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Jun 3, 2022 11:10
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Shadowhand00 posted:suffering from Dunning kruger lol
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Jun 6, 2022 16:18
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Has anyone here ever paired an FD6800 with an FC8000? I have the chance to pick up an FC8000 with new rings for a fairly decent price (I'd be going from 172.5 mm cranks to 170 mm and it has a gen 2 4iiii precision power meter - two changes/upgrades I've been interested in for a while). Am I right in thinking I shouldn't?
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Nov 7, 2022 16:34
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they don't have to be expensive https://www.futurumshop.nl/xand-montagestandaard-pro.phtml
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Dec 22, 2022 16:48
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I've been using drip wax since I started road cycling for exercise, but now I would like to start immersive waxing with four chains on rotation. I would also like to swap out my short cage R6800 rear derailleur for an R8000 with a longer cage, so I can swap out my 11-28 cassette for an 11-32 one. The thing is, I have two fairly new and well-maintained 11-28 cassettes, one on the bike itself and one on the turbo. If I buy the four chains and size them to work with an 11-32 cassette, can I keep using the 28-tooth cassettes on the turbo with the same chains? Or do I need to keep a dedicated chain for the 11-28 cassette and swap chains every time I install the bike on the turbo? e: I tend to stick to ERG mode on the trainer, so a full range of shifting wouldn't be necessary. I'd just keep it in the 14 or 15-tooth cog Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 13:09 on Jan 23, 2023 |
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Jan 23, 2023 13:04
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Thank you both!Heliosicle posted:Bike chain length calculator puts it at 106 Vs 108 links (measured pin to pin I think, not inner +outer, I assumed 420mm chain stay length and 50 front tooth), so one "complete" link. I think it should work fine if your current chain is the optimal length, especially if you're just using it on the trainer. For what it's worth, I have a 52/36 at the front (hence the change; 36/28 was fine for the 150 km AGR and probably would be for the 240 km too, but as I'm going solo I figured I'd play it safe and get a few easier gears). I'll measure the new chains and break at appropriate 52/32 length + 2 rivets, but I feared the new, longer chains might actually be too long for the 11/28 turbo setup. I'm not sure why it would cause a problem, but it's good to know that it won't before I spend a lot of money.
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Jan 23, 2023 16:07
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Staying on topic: do any of you wax multiple chains in the bag silca provide (or au bain marie in general)? How much more convenient is a slow cooker exactly? After buying secret chain blend, super secret drip, 3 chains, a new cassette, a new rear derailleur and a set of reusable quick links, saving some money wouldn't hurt.
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Jan 24, 2023 15:20
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Thanks! Yeah I already have the solvents and containers I need I don't understand what you mean by many hours though. You melt the wax, dunk in the chain(s), wait for the wax to start solidifying again and take them out, no?
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Jan 24, 2023 18:23
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wooger posted:I mean the UFO drip wax, it quotes 8 hours. that's just how long the drip wax takes to dry though, I assume? no constant temperature or watching required
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Jan 24, 2023 18:51
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My new drivetrain, thoroughly cleaned and waxed in silca secret blend, seems much louder than my old one with dynamic speed potion drip lube, to the point where it is grating. I'm confident I have done it right as silca walk you through it in detail. I'm hoping it's just the chain's stiffness. Does it get better after riding awhile? Or do any of you have any suggestions as to what it could be? I've also swapped out my old 6800 short cage RD for an R8000 with a longer cage and my 11-28 cassette for an 11-32 cassette, fwiw Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Jan 28, 2023 |
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Jan 28, 2023 09:32
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A ride fixed the noise... 
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Jan 28, 2023 14:12
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I don't think that's what THY meant, or am I missing something?
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Feb 11, 2023 08:58
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yeah, I figured as much. I do the same, but I'm intrigued by that tool, as 5K S TRs absolutely ruined my index fingers and thumbs last time
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Feb 11, 2023 11:54
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Cheers!
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Feb 11, 2023 14:50
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my friend currently has a Shimano FC-R563 crankset + chainrings of which the latter are in dire need of replacement, can I just stick on three FC-5703 chainrings? (fwiw, outer, middle, inner)
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Mar 28, 2023 17:47
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In the meantime I've discovered that the inner ring on the FC-563 apparently/probably has a BCD of 92 mm, whereas the inner ring on the FC-5703 has a BCD of 74 mm... so that's one reason it possibly won't work. I guess I'll make sure to bring an inner ring with a 92 mm BCD, such as the FC-6703, along as well, just to be sure. Can't find any M8x9.1mm chainring bolts though, which I might need should the ones currently on there turn out to be unusable after coming off. Any tips to preserve them as well as I can while taking apart the chainring?
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Mar 28, 2023 20:30
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Haha, I was unclear I suppose. I meant: any tips on how to 100%, definitely get them loose without rounding them off? Thanks for the advice re: their suddenly coming loose though, that's good to know 
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Mar 28, 2023 21:26
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bicievino posted:Heat em up first, go at it while they're cooling back down. The different thermal expansion rates will help break loose the thread locker. Good to know, thanks!
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Mar 29, 2023 07:14
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it all worked out in the end! no hiccups whatsoever, friend is happily riding around with his new drivetrain. thanks again guys
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Mar 30, 2023 18:25
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mine does come off as a unit. the only cleaning I do after taking it off is removing the spring keeping the pawls in place and the pawls themselves to clean out the dirty grease from underneath, regrease the pawls (or more specifically put some grease in the slot where the pawls go), wipe off the splines the freehub body interacts with and reassemble your freehub may vary of course
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Apr 5, 2023 19:50
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wow did I misread, woops. my bad!
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Apr 5, 2023 19:56
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does anyone know what the letter H on my seat clamp is supposed to indicate? it's on both the upper and the lower part, so I make sure the two are on the same side, but the lower half can be reversed (fwiw) (for a greater offset?) below is a picture i found online of a seat clamp that isn't mine, but hopefully it helps clarify where (on the inside of the clamp) the H is  e: I found a picture of the clamp model on my bike 
Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 18:16 on May 2, 2023 |
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May 2, 2023 18:06
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Heliosicle posted:May I'm misremembering but I had a similar clamp on my TCR that could be reversed. If you wanted to change the offset between -15mm and +5mm you unscrewed everything and flipped the lower (and also the upper iirc) to align the grooves. If not you would have a mismatch in the clamped part of the rails between fore and aft. So then the H is likely to indicate that they are facing the same way like you said. I hoped and expected that to be it. I reversed both and am about go on a ride, so it's reassuring, thanks!
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May 3, 2023 08:44
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presuming butyl (which admittedly I've not used in a while), I think that is more or less a normal rate
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May 13, 2023 14:33
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Speaking of which, my pretty much brand-new R8000 RD shows similar abrasion in the exact same spot. Does anyone have any idea what could cause it? It shifts fine. Pic below (dw I will be washing my bike later tonight, they laid some new gravel on my usual route this week) 
Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 17:58
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yeah the twang is just the spokes reverberating, it's fine
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Oct 16, 2023 16:42
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that looks to be a cassette
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Oct 21, 2023 09:15
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that's what I said
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Oct 21, 2023 09:36
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e: nvm
Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Oct 21, 2023 |
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Oct 21, 2023 17:10
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Apologies for the hastily taken video, but does anyone know what could be causing this clicking sound coming from my kickr core? I took the cover off to see if anything was interfering with the belt, but there doesn't seem to be. It occurs under and without load, though it is particularly noticeable at a lower rpm. It also doesn't matter whether the cassette is on or off, the QR skewer is in or out etc https://imgur.com/a/DrJLyH6
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Jan 26, 2024 12:58
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amenenema posted:Seems to be tied to one revolution of the input shaft or idler. Unfortunately I'd guess that's internal to the unit. Warranty? Wahoo support just now: "Might be the belt tensioner pulley or the axle key of the flywheel." They'll be picking up the trainer the day after tomorrow and sending me a new one as soon as that is on its way. I'll probably have the new one 2-3 work days after that. Purchase was 27 augustus 2021, so I believe it's technically out of warranty. All in all, I'm happy
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Jan 31, 2024 14:38
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 07:03 |
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the kickr core is not in stock so they're sending me a kickr v6 instead
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Feb 2, 2024 16:52
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