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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Hello, I recently got a bike new in a box, it came with tektro hydraulic brakes. The rear brake is exactly how I would expect based on motorbikes and hydraulic braked bicycles I've ridden, basically instant response. The front has a persistent 1-1.5mm of pad clearance on the inboard pad that I can't seem to get rid of. I've played around with centering the caliper dozens of times (it's mounted on an adapter with cone washers under the bolts), I've found that even if I can get it so the clearance is an even .5 mm on either side, after riding up and down the driveway and using the brakes a couple of times, it always returns to the usual situation of a big gap just on the inboard side. I don't think it's an issue of pad alignment because I can pull the lever, release and watch the piston move right back until no part of the pad is touching and keep going until that big gap forms. Is this a bleeding issue or is it just meant to be that way for safety? I don't normally get hung up on stuff like this, but it makes for a really vague and unpredictable initial bite, especially compared to the rear, it really saps confidence on loose surfaces.

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Can I use a 29" tube in a 700 tyre, provided the profile is the same? Or are the diameters different? I can't trust anything since I discovered the 'sizes' are just arbitrary and not reflective of the actual measurements at all.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

SimonSays posted:

Same diameter but check the width. A 29" usually has a hell of a lot more tube in it than a 700.

This is what I'm counting on actually, thanks!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Is 27" the same as 27 1-1/4? That's what all the old road bikes seemingly came with here.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Looks like 27 x anything, in the context of old road bikes, is 630mm ISO. What makes this initially really confusing is 29" MTB tyres that are in fact just wide 622.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

VideoGameVet posted:

My chains* are getting close to the 0.5 wear level with the park tool.

Last time I degreased new chains you could get mineral spirits in California. No more.

What the best way (besides flammable liquids) to remove the grease so I can then use the Silica stuff on them. I’ve heard simple green somehow creates cracks.

*Yeah, 3 chains. It’s a recumbent.

Can you get kerosene?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I got given a rusty 80's (I think) road bike and it's got a bunch of cool details I haven't seen before, because I know nothing, including these sweet little axle adjusters built into the frame:



I get what they do but what are they for?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Dog Case posted:

Allows you to change the wheel base and head tube angle. Forwards=shorter wheelbase, steeper angle, faster handling, back=longer wheelbase, slacker angle, more laid back handling

I suspected as much, thank you!

Looks like this one's a keeper then

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

SimonSays posted:

They might exist, but I can't think of any bicycle parts where stamped steel is the appropriate choice of material.

Though Schwinn and Raleigh certainly tried.

Some individual derailleur component parts are stamped afaict. Terrible material for a loving seat clamp, those things drive me crazy.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

If you had the choice between two functionally identical (but differently colored) 105 LH brifters would you go for the one that has a hosed up looking lever but is mechanically perfect, or would you go for the great looking one that has a missing section of plastic shield so the mechanism is theoretically slightly exposed when you brake or shift (this bike won't be used in the rain).

The levers unfortunately don't interchange despite looking the same from the outside.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It's a little plastic cover to the rear of the lever that covers the ratcheting mechanism, it might be replaceable but would involve dismantling the part you shouldn't dismantle. I don't think it was ever close to weatherproof, it's more a cosmetic thing.

I think I'll run the good looking but broken one.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Is there a rough mileage/hour estimate of how long tape 'should' last the same way we can estimate chain life? Is there a big functional difference between cheap poo poo and fancy stuff?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I'm reading this as 'get the zany colored $10 stuff and go hog wild'

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Is there a difference between alfine and Nexus that's more than just more/less fancy than? Is it that it's compatible with brifters or something?

I have a Nexus 7 speed and an old rsx 7 speed brifter, is it even worth trying to make them work together? Obviously the shift pattern will be reversed but that's fine by me.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Figures, ah well.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

TenementFunster posted:

how much of a boomer/fudd am i for thinking electronic shifting and disc brakes on strictly road bikes is just a way to soak dentists for couple extra grand? have disc brakes suddenly gotten a lot better/have considerable advantages over double-pivot brakes in the last few years?

Disc brakes rule and they should be on everything, cable or hydro, whatever they are objectively better.

Electronic shifting with software updates and all the other modern tech bullshit attached is a revolting concept and you'll take my lovely cables from my cold dead hands.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

VelociBacon posted:

The jagwire enjoyer

Had to google, looks expensive, regular old Shimano will do me.

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Electric shifting with rim brakes is delightful though

Each to their own, good rim brakes work fine but discs are preferable for me.

I don't really see the point of electronic shifting, seems like a huge increase in bullshit for a tiny weight and appearance gain. I also like the mechanical positivity of changing gears with a cable, I think it's analogous to a car with a clutch and gear shifter vs a button shifted auto.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

TenementFunster posted:

i hate adjusting them, tho

I hate adjusting rim brakes more :shrug:

Guinness posted:

And one of the beautiful thing about bicycles, to me, is that they don't require any electronic bullshit to work. Elegance in the mechanical simplicity.

This. I fundamentally do not want electricity and chips anywhere near my bike. The whole point is it works on muscle power alone, for me. If I want electronic assistance of whatever kind I'll just ride my motorcycle.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

kimbo305 posted:

Rim brakes teach you how fleeting beauty is. You set up your pads floating less than a mm above perfectly true new rims, and then they rub the moment your slam into the first crack in the road.

It's just an endless dance between a desire for as little play as possible vs a desire to not hear irritating rubbing.

And that's assuming you don't have to actually take the pads OUT, yes let's just have 3 axes of adjustment all controlled by the one lovely lock nut where, again, you have to balance getting the pad perfectly orientated vs tightening it enough that it doesn't lose position and jam and kill you.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

How many of you cold dead hand types have tried electric shifting?

Literally don't care if it's better in some way, I don't want electronics on my bicycle.

sweat poteto posted:

Unlimited tire size and space for fenders is good enough reason to use disc brakes. Zero maintenance and immunity to rain are just bonuses.

And electric shifting is coming whether you want it or not, unless you want to stay on low tier 11 speed groups forever. 105/rival+ = electric (and disc) only.

Fine by me!

Havana Affair posted:

Jan Heine wrote sometime ago that he predicts the enthusiast field is gonna split between electronic shifting or special down tube friction shifting (guess which he's selling). I tested my friend's desmodromic Cyclo rear derailleur from the 1940s and the shift feel is superbly light with no spring in the RD to resist so Heine may have a point here.

I think six months after this hypothetical split someone will just start making brifter/toggle adapters for them, down tube shifters suck. There is a balance to be struck between practicality and simplicity, brifters aren't a particularly complicated device but they change the bike completely.

Yes I am currently hoarding old brifters why do you ask?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Steve French posted:

I personally can’t wait until electronic shifting is not only universal, but leveraged to make shifting automatic so that I no longer have to hear or see “brifter”

I hate it too but I don't know of a different concise term :/

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

While we're here, is there some specific reason to run 650 instead of 700 wheels on a road bike? Like is it a size or handling thing, or is it more an aesthetic or personal preference thing?

I've noticed that at least with mtb's it seems to be common that the smaller sizes of a bike with 29's will come with 27.5 wheels instead and this makes sense to me, but I've seen some pretty small road bikes that still have 700 wheels.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That makes sense, does it mean that your bike has really big tyre clearance? Do they also have really long reach calipers or is that a wheel specific thing and you aren't really meant to swap back and forth?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Dog Case posted:

Mine uses discs and being able to swap easily is a selling point. They sell wheel sets in either size that include a cassette and discs and i think they even sell the bike with both sets of wheels included.

Right I forgot discs on road bikes are a thing :sweatdrop:

That honestly sounds rad as gently caress, much less compromise for whatever you're doing.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Reading all the above, does that mean that I could theoretically get an elderly, rigid 27.5" MTB and fit skinny 700 wheels? Or would they have to be 650?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I know what my next project is now.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

CopperHound posted:

Indexed rear shifting has been a solved problem since the invention of hyperglide.

If your bike is an out of tune sack of bent rear end derailleur hangers, there is still this lil switch for you.


This but on the down tube seems super common on 90's road bikes. Unless that's :thejoke:

I've no idea how you're meant to use normal non indexed friction shifters on the DT properly, I found myself constantly looking down and wobbling around with one hand on the bars. When they're on the bar like an old MTB it's a little fiddly but fun, on the DT they just feel super far away and awkward to me.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Toe Rag posted:

The mounting seems a little wobbly? I think this may be the problem, actually. It's wobbling around causing problems when it used to be only on bigger bumps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_lCMPHr00o

I'm going to tighten it up unless it's supposed to have some play in it?

That the "indexes" are worn flat? I can move through the shift lever's full travel 5+ times before it finally "catches" and actually pulls on the cable. Releasing cable tension, which shifts up, is one at a time, and works fine but going the other way, which can go like 3 gears at a time, is what doesn't work. I don't necessarily know what are the interior mechanisms by which a shifter works, but I assume there is some sort of ratcheting and indexing mechanisms which would wear down or gunk up or whatever over time. These are older Shimano shifters ... according to some website, they are "Shimano Sora STI 9-speed" FWIW.

I've dealt with basically this exact problem on a couple of old bikes and yeah, the factory grease turns hard and makes the ratcheting mechanism skip instead of catching. It's all made of metal and you can take things apart, immerse the relevant parts in solvent then lube it.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

SimonSays posted:

Your bike is bricked because of a firmware update? I never thought I'd hear something like that.

I am shocked and appalled, nobody could've predicted this

Luckily 11 gears are enough for me

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

e.pilot posted:

lol imagine not being able to ride your bike because the shift cable broke in the lever

In that scenario I can just lock the RD to whatever gear I want with the cable stump and get home, I can also carry a cable with me to replace it on the spot.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Keeping a shift cable and a master link in your bag is a no brainer imo. And a multi tool with a built in chain breaker/riveter.

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Jan 10, 2023

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I'm surprised nobody has developed some kind of automatic chain oiler device like a scottoiler on motorbikes

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I was thinking more for rain or shine commuters that can't reasonably be expected to lube the chain every single day

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

evil_bunnY posted:

gates belt and voila

Yeah sure but for the other 99% of bikes out there it seems like a really obvious thing, you can't expect aunty Meredith to ride to work every day and also lube her chain. Seems like an easy way to make money, especially off of ebike people.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That's true, a chain is $20 at the end of the day

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

My commuter has a hub gear :smug: but I also live in a place where winter is just slightly colder and much wetter than summer so I just have to make sure there's enough oil and not too much grit on the chain

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I want to switch to immersion waxing my chain but I'm finding it surprisingly difficult to find the stuff locally. Anyone know where I can get it in NZ? Or alternatively a non-brutal shipping option online. I'm prepared to do it diy with paraffin wax but want to avoid that if I can.

E: would this stuff do the job?

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jan 29, 2023

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

My main concern with that is the idea of finding ptfe and working out how much to put in, I'm not good at cooking

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Does it have to be food grade specifically? Everything I can find locally is for candles.

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

sweat poteto posted:

https://www.ceracell.co.nz/paraffin-wax-5kg/ says suitable for contact with food, and 2lbs is plenty. I'd give it a go.

Candle wax might be fine too, can't find anything definitive on that.

Awesome thanks, I saw that stuff but wasn't sure if it would do the trick

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