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Did the tyre deflate whilst you weren't riding and dry out the sealant? It may be you need to re-seat the bead by inflating the tyre a bit extra than normal so it pops into the groove. Could also be dried patches of sealant have formed and you need to clean up the inside
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Jan 1, 2023 21:18
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 08:35 |
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mexecan posted:Slow leak while riding. Held air overnight. I’ll try reseating as a first step. Thx. Sorry wasn't clear with my question, I meant in the period where you took time off riding did they ever deflate/get really low on pressure
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Jan 1, 2023 21:30
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Do I need a torque wrench for a bottom bracket/quite high torques? I want to get one eventually but would rather not spend even more on bikes this month. SRAM specifies 54 Nm/40 ft lbs for the bolt in DUB cranks, which just felt like putting quite a lot of force on my scales, but hard to say if I can actually get near to that just by estimating. Main question is do the tolerances need to be that tight I guess Heliosicle fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Jan 2, 2023 |
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Jan 2, 2023 12:30
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wooger posted:Those cranksets (and rotor ones) really need the right torque. A torque wrench will cost less than a new crankset, or hospital bills if something falls off. Ok good to know, I'll get a wrench before I try replacing the chainrings then. Although given a Rival crankset is about 90 euros I can replace it once and break even versus the torque wrench 
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Jan 2, 2023 17:06
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Bike chain length calculator puts it at 106 Vs 108 links (measured pin to pin I think, not inner +outer, I assumed 420mm chain stay length and 50 front tooth), so one "complete" link. I think it should work fine if your current chain is the optimal length, especially if you're just using it on the trainer.
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Jan 23, 2023 14:31
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mexecan posted:An update on this. Seems like a lot of people have had problems with the stock thread together BB's cervelo used, but hadn't heard of something like this, especially after a replacement was installed. My Aspero (with DUB BB) came with the SRAM BBRight press-fit BB installed, which I hope is going to end up being much better than the crappy thread together one. But if the shell turns out to be similarly out of tolerance then it'll end up with issues down the line too. Hope your new frame arrives quickly and you don't get any more problems!
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Jan 28, 2023 13:53
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Lex Neville posted:yeah, I figured as much. I do the same, but I'm intrigued by that tool, as 5K S TRs absolutely ruined my index fingers and thumbs last time https://www.futurumshop.nl/bbb-easytire-btl-78-bandenoplegger-zwart.phtml This thing has made all tyre installations (including 5K S TR's) so much easier for me. I can get it done normally but it just makes it a really simple job.
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Feb 11, 2023 14:31
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Sticky Date posted:Can anyone comment on the wear on these two sets of chainrings for sale? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/454219326800279/?mibextid=dXMIcH I'm not an expert but would say the inner rings have pretty un-worn (but different for the 34 and 36) profiles on the teeth, whilst the outers look too rounded off. The 52 does look less worn that the 50 though I think. All the teeth should be slightly squared off on the top (like below) but they seem quite a bit rounder from the pictures. 
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Feb 28, 2023 07:27
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The body itself is held on by a seal iirc, so it could be that it wasn't properly seated before which is why it fell off so easily. I can pull my DT hub body off fairly easily but there's some resistance before it comes loose.
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Mar 7, 2023 22:32
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Slavvy posted:I've replaced both the discs and pads on my bike, it runs avid bb7 cable calipers. I used all genuine parts and now regardless of how I adjust them they groan like mad when used, far worse than the old set despite them having contaminated pads and scored up discs. Am I meant to clean the brand new discs with solvent or something? Is there something else I'm missing? The groaning is insanely loud, as if the discs are touching hard parts (they aren't I checked). Have you fully bedded the new discs in? https://youtu.be/BWQxGzHQZVU
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Mar 11, 2023 07:50
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Invalido posted:Yes. Not sure about your specific discs but all the ones I've ever bought whether for car or bicycle has come coated to some degree with some type of oily or greasy substance. Just checked some new SRAM rotors I have and that's definitely not always the case, mine are totally dry.
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Mar 11, 2023 11:04
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Orange seal is good but I'm not a fan of the extra bits of foil or something that they put in there, it gets everywhere whenever I'm cleaning the old stuff out
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Mar 12, 2023 21:15
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Lex Neville posted:does anyone know what the letter H on my seat clamp is supposed to indicate? it's on both the upper and the lower part, so I make sure the two are on the same side, but the lower half can be reversed (fwiw) (for a greater offset?) May I'm misremembering but I had a similar clamp on my TCR that could be reversed. If you wanted to change the offset between -15mm and +5mm you unscrewed everything and flipped the lower (and also the upper iirc) to align the grooves. If not you would have a mismatch in the clamped part of the rails between fore and aft. So then the H is likely to indicate that they are facing the same way like you said.
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May 2, 2023 21:39
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SimonSays posted:That would be even weirder and is still grease, with extra grit Anti-seize =/= fibre grip
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May 31, 2023 10:39
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Differences in shifting smoothness across the cassette (i.e., gear 1-2 acts differently to 11-12) means a bent hanger right? I've tried using the SRAM microadjust to correct it but would need slightly different values for either end (like 21 at the 10t, 24 at the 36t). I did fall (very gently) onto the driveside when I went slowly onto a sandy track, so might be because of that.
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Jul 14, 2023 08:07
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Other than shifting from the 2nd largest to the largest cog it's still perfectly good, other than maybe taking a moment longer than I remember it to on some of the larger cogs. But like you say if it was fine before and not now, and can't be easily solved then definitely something wrong. Will take it to a shop and see if they can straighten it out
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Jul 14, 2023 13:38
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TobinHatesYou posted:Poorly set b-gap could also make shifting suck. It was this  , somehow the shifting worked OK but with a really incorrect b-gap (it was at ~18mm instead of 11mm), until it didn't. Maybe I used the max 36t side of the tool not the XPLR one, not sure how I got it so far off otherwise  . Anyway shifting seems to work perfectly across the whole cassette now. I ordered a spare hanger too since you never know when it might be handy.
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Jul 22, 2023 10:13
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Speaking of tubeless, I was able to get hold of orange seal for not insane money, so can stop using the terrible sealant I have already Stan's  Am I ok just dumping the orange seal in there with the old sealant or do I need to clean it out?
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Sep 30, 2023 09:40
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Gonna save everyone some time from my stupidity: don't bother trying to take the clipping mechanism of XTR pedals (or any SPD 's I guess) apart, even if the dirt is annoying, because they are a massive pain in the arse to put back together. I almost managed to get them in place levering the mechanism open with a 6mm hex and my entire body but the thing snapped shut as I was screwing it in. This is in the lowest tension setting ofc lol
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Oct 2, 2023 06:27
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Having just whined a load I managed to do it I braced the L of the hex on the floor with my foot then used my body to pry the mechanism open enough to push the plate in. I don't think you could use a shoe to do it if both plates are off because you need the plate to properly clip in, and not sure there's enough contact otherwise. I'm just gonna get a vice to avoid similar situations in future, like this guy used: https://youtu.be/8b_RvW9jblM?si=c0X_OAlf_KMFr07S (I only found this video after I took them apart)
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Oct 2, 2023 07:01
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Before I take my bike to a shop to get it checked what do people here think about the small cuts/voids in the fork of my Aspero: I circled the biggest one, but there's also one on the upper side near the screw for the flip chip thing. I'm pretty sure it's just where the resin had a small void and not a sign of progressive damage but don't really know. The other side of the fork is fine. There's also some scoring from the hub flanges, so will sand those down a bit to remove any sharp edges.
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Oct 19, 2023 06:41
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bicievino posted:I wouldn't personally stress those at all but hell if the bikes under warranty, make the shop decide that instead of the internet. That peace of mind is part of the point of shelling out for such a spendy bike, right? Yeah good point, will just take it to the shop this weekend to get it checked out
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Oct 19, 2023 18:55
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powderific posted:I just noticed my carbon fork has paint peeling and bubbling off the aluminum parts: Might just be the reflection but is that a big dent in it?
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Nov 7, 2023 21:38
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 Does anyone have recommendations for pulling stuck end caps off hubs? I need to clean and regrease the freehub of this wheel because some crap seems to have gotten in there after it rained a lot (not very impressed with the sealing Vs my DT hubs), but it's completely stuck. The non drive side cap comes off fairly easily by hand. E: thought I'd have to buy one of these https://uniortools.com/eng/product/1758-4-hub-genie But I tried taping the thru axle and cap together with electrical tape and pulling really hard, and it worked! 
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Nov 22, 2023 11:10
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Yeah I keep coming up against problems where my current lack of a vice really sucks
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Nov 22, 2023 14:00
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I did try using lockjaw pliers over a piece of inner tube to protect the end cap but that didn't work, and I don't have any smooth ones to avoid chewing it without the tube there. Considering how tight the fit was between the end cap and axle I'm not surprised all my other methods failed, the pull had to be perfectly along the axle.
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Nov 22, 2023 18:54
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I put new pads in the front caliper of my gravel bike (it has Rival AXS) and it seems like there's just not enough clearance. There's a lot of rubbing even after pushing the pistons in as far as they'll go and almost no travel at the lever. The SRAM road bleed block does just about fit in between the pistons too, so I would think that means there should be enough right? Maybe I just have quite thick pads or something. I guess I'll just have to work a bit harder and it'll wear off after a ride?
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Dec 3, 2023 20:05
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VelociBacon posted:Are you able to adjust them off a bit at the lever? I'm not familiar with those brakes but sometimes there is the ability to adjust pad contact offset at the lever. These only have reach adjustment unfortunately, not contact point. Will try pushing the pistons in a bit more which might gain me half a mm
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Dec 4, 2023 18:34
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I was re-seating a tyre with a dynaplug already in it this morning and I was too slow shutting the air off after the last ping from the tyre bead. Heard a sound like a gun shot and was afraid that I'd blown out the rim or something, but it was the plug shooting across the room. No idea where it is now. Not something I'd considered happening before, but definitely going to be more careful in future lol, rip your eye if that hit you
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Dec 9, 2023 09:13
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I think I have sticky pistons on both front and rear calipers. When I brake I sometimes get extra rubbing afterwards. I've tried removing the pads and pushing the pistons back in but they don't want to go all the way back in, and they just get stuck again and rub. I read a tip about rubbing DOT fluid onto the pistons after pushing them out a bit extra, then pushing them in again. Any other ways to get them moving again more nicely, or could it be a different problem entirely even?
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Mar 14, 2024 21:09
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They haven't been bled since I got the bike ~a year ago. I swapped the front pads out a couple of months ago, except for that there's been no change. Could be the spacers behind the rotor on my road wheels are pushing the rotor too far out to one side causing the pistons on the other side to push out and get stuck maybe. I put them on the wheels to fix some rubbing issues I had before I swapped the pads
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Mar 14, 2024 21:47
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I managed to fix it eventually pushing the pistons out a bit extra and cleaning all around them with cotton buds soaked in disc brake cleaner. I found that different sized combination wrenches were good for getting even pressure on the pistons to push them back in. Still some rub on the front but think that's from uneven pad wear caused by one side being stuck until now.
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Mar 15, 2024 22:50
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jamal posted:sharing what kind of brakes you have can be helpful They're sram rival axs calipers, so no contact adjust. I essentially did the massaging step and cleaned the seals as I pushed them out each time. Rubbing dot fluid seemed like a bad idea yeah. Thanks for the tips anyway everyone, think i have a handle on the easiest way to do it next time
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Mar 16, 2024 07:41
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TheFluff posted:Whining aside, what should I read/watch to get better at basic maintenance of my basic bitch commuter bike where I give zero fucks about weight and all the fucks about comfort and convenience? Since you have a stadsfiets you should watch videos from the country that has the most of them: https://youtu.be/Q-1Yu-hk6qg?si=ZJ0JjlDERkjXBoqT
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Apr 10, 2024 06:58
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 08:35 |
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Spent an hour trying to re-align the derailleur hanger on my (axs) bike after noticing shifting getting progressively worse. Managed to get the shifting smoother and it was aligned to within a couple of mm at the rim in 3 90° positions. Still though, the highest gear had gone out of the range of the micro adjust (despite the shifting being better overall). Gave up and used the spare hanger I had, and now shifting is perfect and the microadjust is in the middle of the range. Obviously it was still misaligned somehow but it seemed like a complete lateral shift? I was using the aliexpress special ztto hag-5 to do the alignment, just wondering if it's the tool or my method for aligning the hanger. Was just using the park tool video but maybe it's outdated when it says 3mm is enough tolerance for good shifting
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Apr 14, 2024 15:33
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