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Yeah that's a bit of a stretch. Tube will probably tear along a "seam" or at the valve stem after awhile.
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Aug 2, 2020 00:57
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I knew they were mavics before you even said it. The freehub has a plastic bushing that rides on the hub body. They wear and eventually you'll notice it doesn't shift as well. There's an ebay store called hubdoctor that sells oversized bushings and bearing replacements. They sort of work. I tried a couple of bushings and the bearing kit on my ksyriums but am glad to just be on nicer wheels now.
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Aug 2, 2020 17:34
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Having finally gone 40mm and tubeless on my cx bike this spring, I'm an idiot for not doing it years ago. (Well mostly i was trying to avoid buying a new set of wheels for that bike).
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Aug 2, 2020 22:41
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I usually have a co2 but it's more for being able to quickly fill/top off a tire that punctured and sealed or needed a plug. In the last few weeks I've used 2 plugs and had one puncture that sealed after I waited a minute with the hole facing down. I don't bring any extra sealant with me. If you've lost that much and it's not sealed you probably need to put in a tube. You don't really specifically need co2 or a plug or any of that, and if you get a puncture that won't seal you just put in a tube. I didn't carry a plug kit for years until I saw a friend use one successfully. Right now I have a blackburn plugger but I think I'm going to pick up a stans dart. This one I thought was going to need a tube after it was leaking still with a plug, but in the time it took me to get the wheel off and my tube and stuff out it had sealed so I kept riding. Tire was already pretty toast so I replaced it though 
jamal fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 16:40
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I went through a lot of gp4ks in different varieties and wore the tread off almost all of them. Had some vittoria open paves I really liked and decided to try some corsa controls this year. Pretty happy with them. Got a couple flats right off the bat, but at least one was actually from a leaking valve extender. Have 1700mi on them since march, just rotated them so it looks like I should get at least that much more out of them assuming I don't hit any large, sharp objects.
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Aug 18, 2020 05:54
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My guides worked perfectly fine for years and then the front started sticking in hot weather. Rebuilt the lever and it's like new again. It seems like the issue was some sort of degradation of the plastic MC piston or the seals, maybe from not changing the fluid enough.  I definitely notice the rsc is better and more powerful than the guide Rs on my new bike, I assume because of the linkage between the lever and MC.
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Sep 3, 2020 16:00
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:This is the location of the puncture last night, about 2 o clock if the valve hole is noon: Are those not little cuts in the rim strip?
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Nov 5, 2020 06:14
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Yes it would be. All the shimano 11s cassettes with a 34t or larger cog fit on 10s freehubs and need a spacer with 11s hubs.
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Dec 17, 2020 02:07
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It's called a wave washer. There should be some gap, but not that much- more like a little less than 1mm. You fill the gap with thin plastic shims. A bike shop would probably give you some for free.
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Dec 30, 2020 00:35
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I also have that tekton wrench, but i bought it straight from tekton's website instead of amazon. Got a set of 1/4" drive hex sockets (and already had a t25) to go with it, plus a 1/2 drive 8mm for the dub cranks on my new mtb.
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Mar 6, 2021 05:07
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Psychepath posted:I feel completely jerked around and like I've wasted 3 weeks. Am I justified in picking my bike up, not paying, and going somewhere else? Yeah go for it, but I'd probably call ahead and make sure the next place has the right stuff. It's weird a shop wouldn't have a pedal thread tap and helicoils. We do that on a pretty regular basis, there's no issue with it and it's cheaper than new cranks for sure (I want to say like $30?) Plus given that you are putting steel in a larger diameter threaded hole it's stronger than the original aluminum. Really common thing to do to aluminum car brake calipers as well. jamal fucked around with this message at 15:52 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 15:49
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Any new brake is going to be way better than your old avids, basic levels included. the sticking issue as far as i can tell comes from the MC piston and/or seals swelling with age. A rebuild kit is like $30, I had to do it to my guides after like 6 years and 8000+ miles. Bleeding the fluid more often than, uh, twice? probably helps there too. On a related note I have some guide R levers sitting around, only a few months old. Not sure how useful that is for anyone. jamal fucked around with this message at 17:03 on May 25, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 17:00
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X7 is 10 speed so yeah that's compatible with anything else sram 10s. With 11 and 12, you mostly can't mix mtn and road/cx but anyway yes a 10s x7 shifter will work with a 10s gx derailleur.
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Jan 8, 2022 17:01
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Yes, 1 1/4 is the width. There are different size 27" tires that all have the same bead seat diameter (630mm in the case of 27" wheels), like 1 1/8, 1 3/8 and maybe others. Inch wheel sizing is kind of weird because it's just the approx outer diameter of the tire, which obviously depends on the tire size/width. The BSD and width in mm is molded into most if not all tires though if you look close. So like a 29x2.2" mtb tire will have that printed on it but then if you look close at the rubber you'll see something like 54-622 meaning 54mm wide and 622mm bsd. further reading: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html E right and 27.5" mtb and 650b "gravel" wheels are also the same size. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Feb 3, 2022 |
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Feb 3, 2022 04:22
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Guinness posted:I've got a pair of Deore XT 8020 pedals with about 4000 miles on them, and the left one has developed what I think is some play between the pedal body and axle. The pedal still spins beautifully smoothly but moves a tiny bit under load. It annoyingly manifests most obviously when spinning at higher cadences (90+) which feels like a slight clunk/click through the shoe at the same spot in a rhythmic pattern with the crank rotation. I can use my hand to put a load on the pedal back and forth and feel it move a bit, more so than the other side pedal, and I strongly suspect this to be the problem. Yeah you can just unscrew the pedal body and tighten up the bearing and add new grease, I have to do it all the time with my shimano pedals. Shimano has a special pedal grease that's expensive but I've used an assortment of other things. The locknuts are 10mm and 7mm and you need a really thin 10mm to be able to tighten them plus usually a vice and maybe some axle blocks for it to hold them.
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Jun 3, 2022 04:47
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You could try a 28.6 clamp, that's a somewhat common size.
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Jul 27, 2022 00:47
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I have a spreadsheet with all my bike setup changes and notes for like suspension and tire pressures. You could just do something like that with spoke length/info. And you can just print the dt swiss calulator results.
jamal fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Aug 9, 2022 |
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Aug 9, 2022 16:28
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Srams brakes with an "S" in the name work a good amount better, like guide/g2/code RS and RSC. My hei hei came with guide r brakes and I wound up just buying RSC levers which made a big difference. Still annoying how much brand new current brakes can suck. And joke's on me I guess. Just ordered level ultimates for my hardtail that's not here yet to replace the Shimano brakes it comes with. Which use the not as good direct actuation linkage as the "R" series brakes.
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Aug 23, 2022 15:28
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Yeah I am on an XC bike on XC tires and am usually right around 160lbs, so the guide rsc with 180/160 rotors is plenty for me, even with a slightly more aggressive tire. I hear good things about the code rsc. Friend is a pretty big guy on a pretty big bike and can go fast and likes his. He also has those mtx red pads and the new hs2 rotors. jamal fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Aug 24, 2022 |
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Aug 24, 2022 02:20
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Few things as mentioned any sram cassette with a 10t little cog uses an XD freehub body. Or with shimano, microspline. 11t is the smallest that will go on a standard HG freehub body. You can probably get an XD freehub body for some 135mm qr hubs like a dt swiss whatever for example but not everything will let you do that. And then without going electric shifters there isn't an off the shelf setup that lets you use a 12s mtb cassette with drop bars. So you need axs with a mtb derailleur, or one of these deals that lets you replace the ratchet mechanism in an 11s road shifter https://ratiotechnology.com/product/12-speed-upgrade-kit/
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Sep 15, 2022 16:22
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Probably at least $200. And then it's easy for all the little things to add up like needing a headset, spacers, cutting steerer, new seatpost, bottom bracket, bar tape, cables and housing, etc. I think we charge $175 for "build bike frame up" and that doesn't include anything extra like I listed above. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Oct 26, 2022 |
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Oct 26, 2022 02:57
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Some WTB rims use that little red rim strip over the spoke holes and then you put a layer of tubeless tape over top of that. But yeah, you need a layer of actual tubeless tape on that rim.
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Oct 27, 2022 05:26
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How does your tape look at the valve? I usually heat up a pick and melt a hole so the tape doesn't split. Otherwise yeah sealant and bouncing/shaking the wheel with the valve at the bottom tends to get some splashed in there and fill in little gaps.
jamal fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Oct 28, 2022 |
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Oct 28, 2022 04:10
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Yes a spiderring will go on there. But to remove both the crank arms and the spider you need special tools that mostly only shops that sells cannondale will have. It's also a good idea to replace the bolts and washers while you're at it. I had a washer get deformed and stick in the threads and then break off the flange of the little bolt one time. A new inner ring and bolts would probably be cheaper and easier, but doesn't look as cool and the spiderrings are lighter. jamal fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Dec 27, 2022 |
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Dec 27, 2022 17:36
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Yeah it might not be a Cannondale specific thing but the spider is held on the cranks with a lock ring and you need a thing to fit into the notches. Also my rings were creaking at the interface so make sure you clean everything real good. Cannondale calls for standard blue loctite but I had some bearing retaining stuff and gave the splines a very generous coating. Bike quiet now. Also has a wheels mfg thread together BB. https://cannondaleexperts.com/products/cannondale-hollowgram-spider-lockring-removal-tool-v2-kt012-x
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Dec 27, 2022 22:57
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I had an issue with my cross bike and took my road bike out today instead. I forgot how much better di2 works and shifts. So smooth, so fast. And in like 7 years and 15k miles it's been completely flawless. I've had the battery get low enough to stop shifting the front derailleur like 2 or 3 times but the rear keeps working so you can finish your ride/get home without being single speed.
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Jan 9, 2023 01:01
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Shift cables also like to fray and break where they clamp to the derailleurs. Always good to check that occasionally to make sure it's not hanging on by a thread. Especially before any trips or long rides or big races.
jamal fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jan 10, 2023 |
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Jan 9, 2023 22:31
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Cable tension is how the derailleur gets to the big ring, so if it's not going to the little ring you could actually have too much. Or, the low limit screw, which physically stops the derailleur from going too far and dropping the chain off the inside of the cranks is set too close. Or, if the cable and housing is old, the friction in it is stopping the derailleur from returning smoothly.
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Jan 10, 2023 19:21
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Little extra on nicer tape is worth it- I'll never use the cheap eva foam stuff from deda, easton, msw etc again. Zipp service course cx is really good. I like the silca piloti but that's a little pricey. Or lizard skins, which comes in various thicknesses.
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Jul 11, 2023 03:08
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new wheels can tend to ping a little as spokes bed in and unwind. You could have someone re-check tension and true them at some point. As far as going flat, taking off the wheel and spraying it down with soapy water can find leaks. If it looks like it's coming out of the valve but the valve is tight, it's probably actually leaking past the tape.
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Aug 1, 2023 16:02
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Centering calipers is generally finicky and I have the best results just doing it by eye. Maybe you just need to like, hold the caliper better while you tighten the bolts? and alternate between them.
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Sep 11, 2023 17:24
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Freewheels and cassettes are different things. A freewheel has the turny/ratcheting bit built in and threads onto the hub. Cassettes are just a stack of gears and the turny/ratchety bit is on the hub. I would guess it's a suntour https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/freewheel-remover-fr-3?category=Cassette+%26+Freewheel But it doesn't really matter, freewheels are pretty interchangeable. jamal fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Oct 21, 2023 |
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Oct 21, 2023 15:47
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Did some maintenance this week. Recently I got caught out in the rain for a pretty long time and the bike was unhappy about that. Next time I went out the dropper was pretty grindey and sticky and there was a good amount of water in the frame and bearings and stuff. The fork had also not been feeling great, a little harsh, not using as much travel as i'd expect, plus the rebound adjuster broke off, so it needed a full overhaul too. All the dropper bits. Pretty easy actually, but all they have is a 12min long youtube video that kind of misses some of the details so you better be sure you pay attention to how things came apart and go back together. the u-cup seal especially needs to be the right way. On the fork I took the air shaft completely apart and replaced all the seals along with the damper. Air shaft is pretty reasonable, you do need shaft clamps and a vice and a bullet tool and stuff to take the foot nut thing off and get the seal head back on. The fox fit4 damper, though, has a lot of parts in it.  The directions on the fox site are fairly good but yeah make sure you lay all the shims out in order and the right side up. the compression adjuster deal in the top cap especially has to go right, the clip that holds the bladder is real annoying to get on, and bleeding is also a pain in the rear end. the broken bit  You can replace just the adjuster shaft but I did get a whole new assembly, plus a shaft. So I put the new one in and then replaced the broken one and put it in the bin as a spare. Anyway I got all that back together but am not all that confident it's not just going to keep on sucking in air like it was before. The seal head on the rebound shaft, sure, that's good but then the bladder is maybe not sealed as good and i'm not sure the top cap itself wasn't letting a bit of air in. Seems like too many ways for air to get in the damper- rebound shaft, rebound adjuster maybe, compression adjuster, top cap, and both ends of the bladder. I think maybe that damper could use a bit of an update. While I was at it I took the cranks out because there was water in the headset when I took that apart so I figured yeah should check those bearings. Not actually that bad. Hmm should I see how those pivot bearings are doing while I'm at it? yeah I guess. Main pivot bearings toast. I didn't bother taking the upper linkage apart. Those bearings are all new this year at least.  Got it back together, took it for a ride, seems like it's all working  
jamal fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Oct 22, 2023 |
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Oct 22, 2023 05:43
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I usually only use plugs if i'm out on a ride to try to get a bigger hole/cut to seal. Then later I'll take the tire off, scrub the cut area clean of sealant, and stick a patch on the inside. Lezyne makes a tubeless specific patch but the normal ones work usually. The thin glueless patches are easy but might eventually blow out with a larger hole.
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Nov 9, 2023 17:41
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Smooth jaw pliers like a knipex pliers wrench work pretty well without chewing up the endcap.
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Nov 22, 2023 16:55
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And sometimes sram pistons just don't like to reset even if they have been bled with a bleed block. every time i change my mtb pads with guide rscs the pistons don't want to retract and i have to crack open the bleed screw on the lever and hook up a syringe. Although maybe last time i figured out that if i dialed the contact adjust all the way out it helped? One of my winter projects for that bike is going to be a full brake overhaul- lever rebuilds, caliper rebuilds, new pads, new rotors.
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Dec 5, 2023 00:16
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sharing what kind of brakes you have can be helpful some variants of sram brakes have issues where the master cylinder pistons/seals swell and stick. This makes the brakes feel stiff, and worst case scenario the mcs don't return and cause the brakes to drag. I had a fun time once with my guide brakes on a big backcountry ride on a hot day where I had to try to avoid using the front brake and occasionally needed to stop, remove wheel, and pry pads back apart with a multi tool. That's kind of an older problem though and shouldn't be an issue with most newer brakes. "piston massaging" where you advance the pistons, push them back, and repeat a few times can help (and clean them when they're sticking out). I've seen trimmed down bleed blocks used to advance 1 piston at a time, and also 2 brake rotors is apparently thick enough to not actually pop a piston out of a caliper... assuming it's centered. Rubbing brake fluid anywhere outside the sealed brake system does not help and you should not do that. Also if you have sram brakes with contact adjust, adjusting it all the way in so the brakes grab the closest to the bars can help with pushing the pistons back in. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Mar 16, 2024 |
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Mar 16, 2024 04:28
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 18:20 |
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The spider is specific to those cannondale cranks. Chainrings bolts are usually pretty generic so you probably don't need anything specific for those rings. Kind of a weird bolt pattern for road rings though so if you can't find some another option would be to get direct mount cannondale chainrings that don't use a separate spider but those cost more. https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/gear/components/cranks-and-chainrings/chainrings/hollowgram-spidering-8-arm a cannondale 5x110 spider plus regular 5x110 rings would be another option you need a special tool to remove the crank arms from the spindle that goes through the bottom bracket as well as one to remove and install the spider. Although I think the spider lockring tool is some sort of a more generic BB tool. And the crank arm tool is basically just two threaded plugs that create an extractor. jamal fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Apr 30, 2024 |
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Apr 24, 2024 03:26
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