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TobinHatesYou posted:If you suspect the BB, it's almost never the BB. If you don't suspect the BB, it's the BB. That's just how it goes. It could be anything with a new bike. Seatpost clamp, saddle clamp, chainring bolts, various drivetrain bits, pedal spindles, etc. Check all those things before you mess with the BB. Especially make sure there is grease on seatpost where it is clamped. I actually got an awful popping sound that I think is coming from my saddle or seat post. I had the bike shop guy grease up the post where it fits into the frame and I feel like it went away for a month or two, but it's been back and the post is still greasy as hell. I guess I should try greasing up the clamp now that you mentioned it.
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Aug 5, 2020 01:15
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I just got some gravelking slicks in that size and I'm waiting for the valve stems to come in before I attempt install without an air compressor. From reading up thread it sounds like this is doable, but it'll be my first attempt at tubeless, so I'm going to give it a try with the tube/soapy water methods above
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Aug 6, 2020 01:39
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kimbo305 posted:If you can recruit a friend, it might be easier for one person to haul rear end on the pump and the other to use hands and feet to even out the tension/pressure on the tire to limit how fast air escapes from loose spots. That's a good idea. I'll see if my wife can lend me a hand and a foot
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Aug 6, 2020 19:30
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The park tool video I saw looked like they were using the soapy water more as a lubricant, but I wasn't really paying attention because my stuff hasn't arrived yet so I could definitely be wrong.
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Aug 7, 2020 02:26
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Shipping delays are bumming me out. My order of tubeless valves never got delivered and, in fact, the padded envelope was torn open at the top upon delivery and one of my tube boxes inside was also opened. My guess is that at some point on the 4 day delay from the original arrival date it got opened and they realized it was all garbage and then my poo poo fell out  Refunded and reordered, but my bike is still in the basement with the tires off.
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Aug 13, 2020 02:10
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So far my tubeless install has been a pain in the rear end because I was waiting forever for the parts to come in the mail, including an opened package that poo poo fell out of. While putting one of the tires on I struggled to get it on the rim and managed to mess up the tape over one of the spokes and air is bleeding out of it ever so gently. I think at this point I just need to replace the messed up tape on that section. Anybody got recommendations on rim tape? Edit: other tire went on a few days later with literally no effort and removing first one and putting it back on also took zero effort and I have no idea why it was such a pain the first try.
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Aug 19, 2020 02:38
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PolishPandaBear posted:Some people in the thread have recommended powdercoating masking tape previously. Thanks. Gonna call the LBS tomorrow and see if they got anything on hand because I'm tired of this thing sitting in the basement, but otherwise might get that. Is gorilla tubeless tape a good option?
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Aug 19, 2020 04:47
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PolishPandaBear posted:I haven't used it but from people that have, and from my experience with other duct style tapes, they leave adhesive residue which is always a pain in the rear end to remove. May not be an issue unless you gently caress up and have to retape though. Thanks. I just ordered the masking tape off the internet and will get at it tonight or tomorrow whenever it arrives.
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Aug 20, 2020 15:12
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EvilJoven posted:Don't forget the page telling you that the cassette contains chemicals known to cause cancer in the state of California. Very important in case you decide to eat your cassette or grind it up into a powder and inhale it. ... in California 
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Aug 20, 2020 15:46
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I ordered some or that masking tape recommended and I've just been looking out the window waiting for USPS guy to show up Edit: holy poo poo as I typed he just dropped it off! Wooo! Edit 2: yeah the green tape is perfect and impossible to damage. I also got the perfect size for 23mm rims: 25mm tape fits perfectly inside with a little on each side to go up the side Mauser fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Aug 22, 2020 |
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Aug 21, 2020 23:38
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 Finally got everything installed for gravelking slicks tubeless and they're both holding air. Front one has the original tape, which I might replace with the green stuff, which is great and recommended. Backyard overgrown garden shot, since I just rode around the block a few times. Bike needs to be hosed off 
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Aug 22, 2020 01:22
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Brand new gravelking plus got slashed open by some glass in the alley on my second ride 5 ft from my gate and just dumped all the sealant out. They sealed up fine after I ran some more sealant in there and stabilized at around 30 psi so I went for a ride. Filled them up with sealant again and up to 60 psi and it's holding for now. Going to let it sit overnight, but goddamn am I pissed that it happened in front of the angry-honks-at-cyclists-and-old-ladies-crossing-in-crosswalks neighbor
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Aug 26, 2020 00:07
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You all have a type/brand of lube to recommend? My current bottle of wet lube is running out and I'll need to get more soon. Normally I would be riding in pretty rainy conditions very frequently. Right now due to COVID it's mostly just dry roads and occasional mud or lots of mud for my gravel bike.
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Aug 31, 2020 19:22
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I bought the first guy's recommendation because it was cheap and didn't involve a crockpot. New problem is that the seem on my rim appears to be where my tubeless tires are leaking and will only hold pressure about like 10-30 psi while riding. Gonna add some more sealant and see how it works, but is there something special that needs to be done here?
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Sep 2, 2020 00:36
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Rim tape is brand new and was holding perfectly until I put it on the rack and drove 150 miles. The seam is where the two pieces of metal meet and come together on the rim and there's a sliver of a gap between the two ends. When I got to the destination it looked like all the sealant had blown its load, but let me seat it again and see if anything pops and then fill it up again. P.S. I got the orange stuff already as a recommendation from the thread
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Sep 2, 2020 00:52
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This was after I had set it up and given it a 2.5 hour ride on a very hot day with zero issues and then put it back in the cool basement. So it would have experienced some pretty extreme temperature shifts between basement and then exposed to pretty high heat again on the day of the drive, but otherwise should have been seated I think. Like I said, I'll fill it up again and see how it goes.
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Sep 2, 2020 02:10
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Tubeless tire is holding air at full pressure now, so problem solved until it causes a problem again. I need to replace my bar tape on my gravel bike soon and the previous stuff was whatever they sell at REI which seemed to get cuts and gashes really easy from I don't even know what. Are there any materials that I should be looking at if I want it to be really durable? Also, it has to be a sort of lightish blue.
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Sep 2, 2020 19:41
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 came down kinda hard on my saddle and the rigid plastic spine or whatever you want to call it snapped. I don't think this is something that can be fixed and it's about four years old now so well out of warranty.
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Sep 14, 2020 14:06
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TobinHatesYou posted:Generally referred to as the shell of the saddle. Ah thanks. I'm terrible at terminology. I saw somewhere that strain from sitting too far up on the seat can lead to weakening it, but I had that thing pretty dialed in and I thought it was a pretty nice seat. I was looking to replace it with the brooks leather seat. Is that thing pretty sturdy? Edit: I notice now on their website that they got a ton of different varieties so I'll need to see what kind of dimensions I want Mauser fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Sep 14, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 20:54
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That's good to know for both. Based on the difference in weight it looks like it would be an additional half pound compared to the previous (rip) which was a specialized henge comp I got at a going out of business sale for $60. I might try to find something of similar firmness rating on their site since shops around here seem to be out of everything that I could try out and I would just promise to be more gentle to it edit: all right I ordered a specialized bridge comp as it looks pretty similar to what I had Mauser fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Sep 15, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 23:45
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Bike shop fixed my clicking noise while pedaling. They tightened up something down there and said that I needed a new bottom bracket maybe next season when stocks come back in. The only part they had available to order would've been $300+ so they reasoned correctly that I would not be interested in that for my toughroad. Not knowing anything about the bottom bracket, is there anything I should look out for when replacing it or just go with whatever they had proposed in the ~$30 part range?
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Sep 17, 2020 02:44
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I've been struggling to adjust the mechanical disc brakes on my front wheel aluminum frame toughroad and bike shops inevitably gently caress it up too. The issue seems to be that there is enough flex in the fork that when the brake pads sit tight against the rotor, turning or standing up to pedal bends the fork and the pads rub audibly. When I adjust them to not rub, it'll brake well enough, but it's not great. Tightening the skewer helps a bit, but still not sure what to do.
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Sep 20, 2020 16:38
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TobinHatesYou posted:The fork leg almost always flexes more when leaning right, causing rub on the left pad. Increase the distance to the left pad and slightly decrease it to the right pad. Don’t aim for symmetry. I'll give this a shot and see how it goes. Eviljoven: what does faced mean here? I tried googling and it wasn't obvious. Most likely I'm just going to adjust them until I'm happy, unless this is something relatively inexpensive.
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Sep 20, 2020 23:21
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I just took my bike out for a ride last night and noticed that the front was extra wobbly and a slight lean to one side or the other would cause the front tire to turn strongly in that direction which was not a lot of fun. I put a ~2lb front rack on the bike a couple months ago, but this is the first time I'm noticing this, so I do not think it's that. Any ideas as to what might be wrong?
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Dec 30, 2020 16:29
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VelociBacon posted:If you lift the front of the bike up and spin the wheel is it straight? Did you have to undo the wheel to install the rack (and maybe not tighten it back on fully set into the dropouts)? Is the tire pressure low (I think it's this)? I don't know why I didn't check the pressure! I've got tubeless tires on and have the habit of giving them a squeeze before a ride just to ensure that they haven't completely deflated, which has happened in the past. They definitely lose air faster than tubes, but it's over the course of several weeks rather than a couple months now that they're properly seated
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Jan 1, 2021 00:24
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I am not really planning to do any of these any time soon, but I got two long-term possible upgrades on my road bike. 1) If I were to replace the mechanical disc brakes on my 2x9 with hydraulic, would 10 or 11 speed shifter/brakes work with the limit screws adjusted properly or would I also need to replace the cassette for them to be compatible? I was also thinking about just replacing the front brake with hydraulic, which would avoid this whole dilemma 2) what are the considerations for replacing the front fork with a carbon replacement? I want to maintain the same disposition of the handlebars, but not sure what goes into this
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Jan 9, 2021 00:10
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bicievino posted:Realtalk: upgrading any parts on a low-end disc road bike ONLY makes sense if you have a deep emotional attachment to the frame. Yeah, I'll skip the fork replacement since I specifically didn't care about the weight on this thing when I got it, but still interesting to learn about. I will probably still do the hydraulic brakes for the front since it looks like parts would be reasonable compared to buying a new bike and I feel like I'm constantly having to readjust that one in particular every few weeks.
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Jan 9, 2021 17:55
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kimbo305 posted:Doing hydro for just one brake comes with the significant downside of having mismatched levers. The actual ergonomics might be close if you stay with the same brand, but it would eat at me. Thanks for writing all this out. Are you saying just to do 2 x 10 without the hydraulic would be minimum ~150-200? And yeah I might look into a better mechanical one whenever I get around to this instead if that's before you even get to the brakes. I do have another bike with hydraulic and it's amazing and that's what got me thinking about it. mikemelbrooks posted:Shimano Tiagra does ten speed hydraulic, but also bear in mind that most Shimano road calipers are flat mount and it looks like yours are post mount. Yeah definitely post mounts. Not sure how that works if it's possible to use an adapter in that situation. Sounds like this is all way more work/money than it's worth. bicievino posted:All the little poo poo adds up, too. I might check what the LBS quotes me on this, but looks like parts alone are quite expensive so yeah
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Jan 10, 2021 03:27
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e.pilot posted:screams HY/RD calipers into the void Samopsa posted:If your beef with mech disks is the readjusting the HY/RD semi hydraulic brakes will definitely solve that and imo they work great. Thanks for the recommendations. This looks like it might solve the problem and looks like people sell them used for pretty cheap as well
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Jan 12, 2021 15:13
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Any ideas what a rhythmic popping sound might be only during medium to fast speeds seemingly coming from the tire? Just started after I inflated the tires and I'm guessing they're not properly seated maybe?
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Mar 4, 2021 23:30
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Back to the shop then, i guess!
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Mar 5, 2021 18:29
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My bike stand will apparently work itself loose and fall over if you leave a bike on it over a couple days. So, my old, '70s steel bike fell over with the bike stand and after that the pedal on one side would hit the chain stay as it rotated. I was able to bend the whole rear of the bike back into place a bit, so there's plenty of clearance for the pedal now and no visible cracks or damage to the frame, but any recommendations on how to get this straighter? The steel is super flexible and I paid next to nothing for this bike, so worst case scenario I strip off all the parts I want to save and look for another similar one.
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May 18, 2021 14:52
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Havana Affair posted:https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html Here's the Sheldon Brown article on checking the frame alignment and bending it. The string method is how you check the frame is roughly straight. Perfect! That's exactly what I needed. I couldn't figure out a good way to leverage it back into position despite having a pile of lumber right next to my bike stand.
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May 19, 2021 13:58
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Two questions for you guys: 1) I ordered brake calipers off the internet and they're really nice, but instead of being silver like they looked on the website, they're actually quite a bit darker shade of shiny metallic grey. I went back and it's in the name, sort of, so my fault. Rather than returning them, I was thinking of just disassembling as much as possible and painting/spray painting the colored bits. Any advice? 2) My chain seemed to slip a bit when I'm braking really hard with the peddles on my fixed gear that I just put together, enough so that the first time that the chain actually popped off. The shop fitted the chain, but I put it back on too loose. I redid the rear wheel position as tight as possible against the chain and haven't had this problem again. I pulled on the wheel with one hand, bracing the bike with my foot and then gave the bolt a crank with the wrench in the free hand to tighten, which seemed to work. Is there an easier way to do this?
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Dec 14, 2021 17:34
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Thanks for the advice, polishing the component and lever method sound like the way forward. The dropouts are straight and I'll go measure the chain alignment just to be sure, but edit: hopefully that'll be fine
Mauser fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Dec 14, 2021 |
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Dec 14, 2021 21:29
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Just double checked and chain is aligned. My first attempt at putting the wheel on that led to the chain coming off was almost certainly because it was way too loose. I used a pry bar with some old tire strip to protect the seat stay bridge and got it where I think it's good and tight, but not too tight. It's steel frame and I don't think the pressure needed to get it in position was anywhere near doing potential damage to it, but I could be wrong.
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Dec 14, 2021 22:14
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It certainly would not have worked on my road bike because there is no way to fit the handle of anything in that space
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Dec 14, 2021 22:53
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Thinking about buying a cheap old bike on vacation. €30 for this: Does that fork look messed up to anyone else or is it just the angle?
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Dec 24, 2021 01:59
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Merci. That's too bad because it would have been perfect for what I need except for that one small detail
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Dec 24, 2021 02:47
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Nah, we have a junk bike here for me already, it's just too small for me and not very fun.
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Dec 24, 2021 11:05
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