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bicievino posted:Also I'd love to hear a good argument for running tires wider than say... 32mm with tubes It costs less?
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Aug 2, 2020 21:32
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bicievino posted:Does it? Do the rims cost less? Cheaper speced bikes often come with tube rims and tires. I mean technically with enough tape and sealant anything is tubeless.
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Aug 3, 2020 04:58
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This is why I stayed out of cycling for 5 years.
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Aug 3, 2020 05:33
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I guess tubeless is that good that it's worth carrying all the extra kit? Add for tubeless - CO2 inflator in case you need to re-seat the bead - tire plugs - spare valve stem - spare valve core - spare sealant Standard kit - mini pump - still need for tubeless for small pressure modifications - tire boot - still need for tubeless for large holes - spare tube - still need for tubeless just in case you have a gigantic hole - tube patches - still need for tubeless in case your spare tube gets a puncture
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Aug 7, 2020 16:16
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spf3million posted:
Those look pretty interesting, but a lot of the reviews I'm reading seem to indicate they have a lot of quality control issues.
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Aug 7, 2020 18:14
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WTB don't hold air? I was really looking at the Resolute. The Schwalbe G-One All-round that I have are terrible at sand and loose dirt. My front slides out on corners and rear spins on steep climbs. How is Gravelking SK in those conditions?
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Aug 8, 2020 15:45
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e.pilot posted:SKs are real bad at washing out. Give the GK EXT a look, it’s the same casing with a more aggressive tread. Dang only goes to 38mm though. Do they run big? The ones I have now are 40mm and I have about 10mm clearance on all sides. Trying to go large.
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Aug 8, 2020 17:24
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I picked up another wheel set real cheap on Facebook marketplace, so I'm trying to do an off-road set and an on-road set. I'm really only doing one or the other at this point, so I want to go full in each direction.
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Aug 8, 2020 19:01
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Is Gorilla tape legitimately as good/better than special tubeless rim tape? Or is it one of those "just pay for the special tape." It's not the price - I have a bunch of Gorilla tape lying around already and I don't want to wait for special tape. But the Gorilla tape has really thick adhesive, is that not going to be a mess?
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Aug 21, 2020 21:37
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e.pilot posted:It’s a mess to clean up when you want to inevitably lay down new tape. I'm reading now this stuff is exactly the same as Stan's - https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-Strapping-Tape-8896/dp/B00C0Z1Z5C/
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Aug 21, 2020 21:55
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e.pilot posted:mech discs should be immediately replaced with TRP HY/RDs I've got mechanical discs and I can lock them up with no problem but my hands get loving tired on long downhills. I'm definitely looking to upgrade, or take steroids.
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Aug 28, 2020 02:17
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e.pilot posted:being able to lock up brakes says nothing of required lever force and modulation, if that’s your criteria of good brakes then rim brakes are just fine too They don't lack stopping power is what I'm saying. And yes I am saying my hands get tired from modulating the lever with force for long durations.
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Aug 28, 2020 03:52
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I've got Spyres! How does the Hy/Rd compare to a full hydraulic setup? I am aware I am quickly approaching the "should have bought the more expensive bike in the first place" zone.
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Aug 28, 2020 07:12
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Well my mechanical disks are very adequate for the road, but I'm taking my gravel bike down single tracks and stuff where I should really be on a mountain bike, and there have been times where I thought my hands were going to fail. I'm running Tiagra which is fine, and the full Tiagra hydro levers, lines, calipers is about $240 on eBay vs the Hy/Rd at about $100 less. Hy/Rd is almost zero effort to install, whereas the full setup will allow me to be sequestered to the garage for a couple hours. Tough choice.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:47
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mikemelbrooks posted:I just put on my first set of Continental GP5000 tubeless, now drinking beer to ease the pain in my thumbs. Those are some massive thumbs if you did without levers. I put on a set with tubes to set in the tubeless rim tape. The next day after I removed the tubes, the tires had stretched and basically fell back into place with very little effort. It's hilarious how much of a difference it was.
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Sep 6, 2020 06:27
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If I have two wheelsets with two different cassettes, do I have to change my rear derailleur indexing when swapping? It doesn't seem like I would, but you never know. I want to go to 11-36 or bigger for offroad, but keep my on road 11-34.
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Oct 12, 2020 22:16
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Tigren posted:Alternative take, if your wheelsets have different hubs, you may have to. I have two wheelsets with the same exact cassettes, but different hubs. I give one good half-turn when I switch between them. One of my hubs is 11 speed with an adapter ring for the 10-speed cassette. I have identical 11-34 cassettes and everything shifts perfect with no adjustment. e.pilot posted:This, also I go between a 9-34 and 10-42 without adjusting the b-screw no problem. Now I'm actually thinking about going up to a 40 or 42, but that would need a Wolftooth Roadlink or similar. There should be no issues still using the 34 with the Roadlink on there, correct?
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Oct 13, 2020 06:28
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So I got a 11-42 and threw it on to see what would happen. Longer B screw wouldn't do it, so I had also ordered a Wolftooth Roadlink. It works perfectly, only needed a small barrel adjustment. Only issue is if I do big rear to big front, my chain is a little tight, but I don't anticipate needing to do that ever. With my other wheel with the 11-34, I basically have to pull the B screw all the way out for it to be within range, but it still works with the Wolftooth attached.
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Oct 15, 2020 06:46
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Picked up a used Fuji Newest 2.0 for a good enough price for my wife to use. Its got some weathering but is otherwise straight and everything works. My plan: - Toss the Sora components, they have significant mileage and wear. - Buy myself GRX components for my bike. - Move my great condition Tiagra gear to the Fuji. Crank, derailleurs, brifters (I had previously upgraded mine to hydro brakes so I have the other set of mechanical brifters sitting there. The rim brakes are going to be fine for her use.) - The 10 speed cassette SHOULD fit on the 9 speed wheel, correct? With a 10 speed chain. - Is there any reason why I would need a different bottom bracket with the crank swap? - The wheels are 622x14. The frame looks like I can max out at 32mm tires. They SHOULD fit on those rims.
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Dec 30, 2020 23:52
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I guess this is a good place to ask as well as the AI thread. Complicated heat shield on the rack, or move your exhaust.
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Dec 31, 2020 06:53
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:It's a dual exhaust, and it's a 1up hitch rack, so there isn't a way to take off one or two wheels. I mean, I'm assuming the issue is direct application of hot gasses to the wheel. Radiant heat from the exhaust pipe itself shouldn't be an issue unless you're very close, or driving extremely aggressively for extended periods. quote:“Rear-facing exhaust tips that line up with the bike rack and lower portion of the rim can do the damage,” said David Agaptio, tech services and warranty manager at DT-Swiss USA. Fogle suggests adding turn-down tips to redirect heat away from your rack and bike. Another solution is to add a riser or swing-away kit that safely spaces the rack away from the exhaust.
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Dec 31, 2020 13:58
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:The sticker says a minimum clearance of 45cm/18' behind, and 20cm/8" above. That is a pretty sizeable length for a rack to be away from the car. Yeah I'm not sure how that's possible with a hitch carrier on most cars.
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Dec 31, 2020 18:02
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I might have screwed up my cable length, and my front brake line has been rubbing against the head tube on my frame when I turn right and there's some light scratches. I stuck some clear 3M vinyl on there because I don't want to fix it. Anyway just here to confess, see ya.
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Apr 19, 2021 04:35
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Made a water bottle holder for my kids bike that doesn't have mounts. I had some velcro straps and bought a $5 cage. I put an old inner tube piece around the bottom of the cage for grip and to protect the bike paint. I spread some silicone on the back of the velcro straps for more grip. Then I riveted the straps to the cage. This holds pretty tight.   
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Apr 28, 2021 04:21
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FISHMANPET posted:Any recommendations for a maintenance stand for occasional home use? Or a good inexpensive way to hold up a bike (like something I can mount directly to a wall?). The Park Tool stands are all too fancy and professional and expensive for the little use they'd see, but I don't want to buy some $50 piece of crap on Amazon that's going to fall apart in 20 minutes. There's got to be some kind of in-between. I've had this Amazon one for a year and have hit things it was holding with a 5 lb hammer and it's still super solid. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089QBLP6R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_Y43QVN16F9XVM20D935D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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May 5, 2021 15:06
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E- nevermind read the instructions
FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 02:24 on May 15, 2021 |
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May 15, 2021 01:25
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I bought a new KMC X10SL chain to fit my big to big gears since I put on a 46-30 front and 11-42 rear. Chain calculator math says I need 113 links. I just stuck it on with all 116 and it seems to work fine and isn't hanging loose on small-small. Is it true that you can't put these type of chains back together if you remove links? I don't want to drop down a few links and be stuck with a too-short chain.
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May 20, 2021 15:53
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It won't hurt to clean it out. You definitely want to grease it. Was the stuck seatpost steel or aluminum? I'm assuming the frame was steel.
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May 24, 2021 06:17
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Hydraulic brakes are much easier than messing with cable tensions and barrel adjusters. Bleeding is dead simple especially if you have a kit. When installing, don't pull your brake lever before everything is connected. You'll shoot the plug out of the pre-filled brake hose. Also don't squeeze the lever without the wheel and rotor installed unless you have one of those spacers stuck in the caliper. The calipers don't return to full open, you'll have to gently pry them apart with a screwdriver or something to get the rotor back in.
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May 26, 2021 15:32
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Yeah plastic is a better idea.vikingstrike posted:Centering rotors can be a pain, honestly. Just be patient and take your time. You'll eventually get it. Loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever to clamp the brakes on the rotor, tighten caliper bolts, release the brake lever?
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May 26, 2021 18:08
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Some tubes come with a removeable valve core that you can replace, but also its a good idea to keep spare tubes around.
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May 26, 2021 23:08
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Can't citrus degreaser damage the paint?
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Aug 14, 2021 07:17
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I was wondering, there are many citrus based paint strippers.
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Aug 15, 2021 02:02
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 01:25 |
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ElMaligno posted:Why is it so hard to find a Shimano GRX RD-R400 rear derailleur in North America (amazon doesnt count) I got one from Jenson back in May. I'd hit them, Nashbar, and Western Bike Works. They seem to consistently get in new stock and typically have dates when the item will return if out.
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Aug 29, 2021 16:49
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