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nm posted:Contis valves aren't as long as q-tubes long valves and don't seem to be available longer. Conti valves max out at 60mm but they sell an extension Which is great for me, I only have one wheel that needs longer than 60mm stems and it's easy enough to just swap out the valve core on the street if you have the little tool they give you in the packet with you.
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Aug 3, 2020 01:11
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sweat poteto posted:Doing the valve edge last allows the opposite side of the wheel to sit in the middle of the center channel and provide a few mm more slack. If you start at the valve, it can't do that and it'll be more difficult to get that final piece over the rim. I always do the valve section first but make sure my final section is somewhere 90-120° from there so the opposite side has some slack
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Sep 11, 2020 16:52
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If the owner doesn't come to the table then 100% you should name and shame. Ruining someones bike is not ok even if they know how to fix it. Especially when you pointed it out... They should have fixed it on the spot and if they couldn't they should have offered to deliver it to your house
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Sep 20, 2020 00:26
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Dolemite posted:
As others said - don't use an electrical wire cutter Your best bet is go down to the local auto parts store and buy a steel cable cutter from there. A cheap one will be $5-$10 and you'll be able to get it immediately instead of waiting for shipping on an expensive bike specific tool. While you are there you can pick up an awl to tidy up the inner sheath of the outer after you cut it with them.
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Oct 1, 2020 04:06
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https://www.amazon.com.au/Cycle-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ I have this one (pretty sure I didn't pay that much) and it is rock solid although a bit hard to fold/unfold even after greasing the post. Mine looks like the listing for the 25kg one, I'd be surprised if it didn't hold more. With my carbon bike I find I have to weight the legs so it doesn't blow over in the wind The clamp can be quite easily rotated with the bike in place too which is nice and latches with a tooth system so you don't have to worry about friction interface holding your bike at the angle you want
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Oct 5, 2020 02:46
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yergacheffe posted:
Yeah that'll wear through on the road in no time without protection I think the stitching only needed to go deep enough from the inside to be able to tie the threads in the tire together to stop it bulging. However you might also find that cementing that boot into the inside is good enough to hold it In short - just ride it. Worst case you are out a tyre (and maybe another tube) - best case you get another 1000km+ out of that tyre.
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Oct 5, 2020 12:25
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CopperHound posted:If you need to ask, have a shop face your frame and install headset/crown race. Yep - don't expect to build a bike from bare frame and no tools cheaper than a bike shop can do it, many of those tools you'll never use on that bike again. Just the hanger adjustment tool and headset press will be ~$50-$100 each. Pressing the headset/crown race incorrectly can also permanently trash a frame. You can probably cover 90% of the specialised tools with a cheapy x-tools kit that has a bunch of the common Shimano/SRAM tools. You 100% need a torque wrench for a carbon frame, plus the set of hex bits for it. This thread can definitely guide you on the tools and processes you need to follow, so if you are just keen to do it yourself you should probably give at least a rough idea of the build you are planning because tooling is very specific to particular parts (even within the same manufacturer) and cross compatibility between various platforms is an absolute poo poo show.
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Oct 12, 2020 02:54
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Remembering that you can move the opposite bead (into the centre of the rim) to the one you are trying to get over the rim is the key to getting the first/last bit of bead over. Also I'm told that starting in the right place wrt the stem is important but I've never really found that to be the case beyond wanting to be at least a quarter turn away when getting the last bit of bead on/off norp fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 08:37
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Feels Villeneuve posted:(if they hold air, is it fine to continue to use ancient rear end inner tubes, because idk if 700c tubes are still hard as nails to get in stock) I've been riding an old lovely kenda inner tube on the front of my commuter fixie for like 5 years that has a bent presta valve core. I've been waiting for it to die so I can put a nicer tube in it, but it's outlasted like 3 tires and 2 rear rims at this point
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Feb 2, 2021 00:14
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CopperHound posted:Whatever the box says there is still a good chance the tube on the inside will still say kenda. Yeah but the one I'm talking about is some sort of thick budget tube. It weighs an absolute ton compared to the Conti race ones I generally use. I'm never gonna patch it like I do with other tubes but it's managed years without even that 
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Feb 3, 2021 16:53
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VelociBacon posted:lubricating them you're only going to overtighten to the point of stripping them accidentally. As someone who's ripped the threads out of carbon stems due to getting carbon gripper paste's carrier fluid wick into the stem bolts I no longer use anything near there
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May 6, 2021 17:18
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DaveSauce posted:Not sure if this is a question for this thread or the MTB thread but here goes. I have a similar aged bike (2007? Giant anthem) that only gets an outing occasionally I'd be mildly interested in the answer to your braking problem... I have a spare duraace cassette and chain sitting around from ~2010 so drivetrain can probably wait a while my problem is the aging juicy5's that have shitloads of play in the levers. They still have great braking response for now, but eventually one of those levers will give up and I won't be able to get a replacement.
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May 22, 2021 14:23
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Pretty sure they are just a basic cup & cone headset in most of those. Pretty simple to tear down, lube & reassemble. The wheels are a disposable wear item and come with bearings pressed in already When the headset race is eventually damaged it's normally not worth the pain of doing that job yourself, so it's either bin it or take it to a shop. Edit: guy above me is right, that one linked looks more like cartridge bearings in the headset. They are even easier to replace
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Jun 1, 2021 00:21
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Jestery posted:Jfc Always replace your inners at the same time too, it's super simple (and cheap) but you do need a pair of snips that can cut stainless steel braided wire. Getting the old inner back into a new outer is not fun job, a new cable comes with the end of the braid spot welded together. I think the snips I use were about $6 from an auto parts store.
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Nov 14, 2021 09:11
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I've broken yet another front brake cable on my fixie and need some help I really cheaped out last time with a bar end shifter last time with an $8 chineseium lever and I think this has contributed to me riding home brakeless so often. My question is that with something like this https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/sram-aero-500-pair-red-brake-lever-set/136003532/p Why does it go into the front/back lever detail? Do SRAM TT groupsets have weird brake cabling systems? I thought brake cables were basically all the same across the board. (Note - the brake I'm using is a dual pivot tektro caliper)
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Dec 21, 2021 14:29
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I assume most go straight down the inside of the bar, my bars have internal routing and this was true even with the cheap lovely one I'm not worried so much about them being reversible (although a bonus for a spare part) but don't want to be stung by some weird incompatibility. I'm fully prepared to have yet another left brake lever sit in the parts bin unused.
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Dec 21, 2021 16:20
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You don't need the downward force if you aren't preloading a bearing!
norp fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 04:10
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Well the step after tightening the stem is to remove and reinstall the top cap with just enough torque to stop it spinning. It's literally cosmetic at that point
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Jan 9, 2022 14:32
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Hanger alignment tool is super useful to have, and given they are basically a bar with a bolt aren't too expensive for bike speciality tools. I have a bike with a hanger that'll go out of alignment if you look at it funny so it paid for itself pretty fast
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Jan 15, 2022 12:15
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Note that if you can wait a few weeks for shipping a clone of the park tools hanger tool is like $30 on AliExpress Or if you have a drill and an M10 bolt you can just make one with any straight piece of square tube or similar.
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Jan 16, 2022 08:44
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VideoGameVet posted:I had to buy one after I paid a shop to do an alignment and found out that they flat out lied about having the tool Wtf Surely shops should be checking hanger adjustment on bikes all the time. I don't know how you would conceivably do the task with a spanner. I've had my 11sp bike be impossible to dial in shifting with less than 2mm hanger error measured at the rim. Edit: on a 700c rim 2mm out at the rim is 0.33° - and given you only need to adjust half of that the "spanner" would have to eyeball 0.15° norp fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Jan 16, 2022 |
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Jan 16, 2022 08:49
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