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Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

bicievino posted:

I admit I don't have an encyclopedic knowledge of current lower-end gravel bikes (narrowing to that given the selection of what can clear wider tires), but I checked the bottom-rung Journeyman and it come with tubeless compatible wheels.
Good quality tubeless rims and wheelsets are very affordable (just not light), and obviously more expensive than zero dollars for a non-compatible wheelset you already have.

I guess I should have put more caveats on my statement? "My bike does not have tubeless compatible wheels rn" obviously counts as a good reason to not run tubeless tires, lol. I suppose I considered that one had the option to do it implicit in my challenge?

I bought a Claris-level GT Grade a few years ago that came with tubeless rims so I think nearly any bike you buy today that can fit wider tires should be able to.

To add to the incidental costs of tubeless, there are also valve stems (which cost at least as much as a tube each), tape (which is cheap if you get strapping tape or expensive if you get the branded stuff to match your rims), and an air compressor or inflator canister thing if you want to get them mounted at home. I'd say it is definitely pricier overall for me but worth it

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Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

spf3million posted:

I spent $80 a couple years ago on a pump with a large side cylinder and a switch next to the valve to release the compressed air from the cylinder into the tire all at once. Works great.

I have Specialized's standalone canister and it works pretty well. I've used it to mount tires (marathon supremes first and foremost) that I was completely unable to get to seal otherwise, even after using a tube to seat the bead one side, soapy water, etc. I'll admit I've never tried more than a couple of layers of tape.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

setting up tubeless is indeed a pain in the goddamn rear end but the first time you pop your tire and it heals itself like magic you'll realize it was all worth it

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Spyre is one of those things that looks like it should be better on paper but isn’t really an improvement in performance over conventional mech disc brakes

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

think of the environmental toll of sram having to ship infinite replacement levers and brakes to anyone who ever bought them, forever

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

that's not just sloppy, that is literally unsafe to ride

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

"go to your local bike shop for service" says the OEM, when your local bike shop is forty five minutes away and cannot affix a crank arm to its spindle

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

The main thing you want a real bike cable cutter for is for trimming cable housing, and even then it's probably easier to get it cut straight with no burrs using a dremel or similar

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

sram and shimano cranks are absolutely fine without a torque wrench. The FSA cranks with the pinch bolts are the ones you have to watch out for (and maybe they still gently caress up even with proper torque? Don't know, don't care).

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

People just call all quick links "connex." Please respect the connex trademark or else, uh, nothing will happen

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

:shrug: pretty sure I've heard it used interchangeably, on this forum and others

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

kgibson posted:

Any particular injector? Amazon has a bunch of random/generic ones that all seem comparable...

I use the 4oz Orange Seal bottle that comes with a little hose. I had a Stan's syringe but the plunger dried out and cracked in under a year. You don't really need to inject the sealant through the valve with MAXIMUM FORCE - turning a bottle upside down to drain is sufficient

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

DevCore posted:

Is there a front rack that’s a similar design as the pass and stow rack?
I really don’t feel like dropping $280 for a handmade front rack.

https://www.passandstowracks.com/


The specialized pizza rack is one alternative. It's finicky to set up and not really amazing, but it's closer to $100 than $280. I did ragbrai with most of my camping gear on top of it.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Dren posted:

I've been messing with my bike fit and I'd like to try a setback seatpost. I currently have an aluminum frame and seatpost, 25.4 mm diameter. If I'm not trying to get a suspension or carbon fiber seatpost for comfort is there any reason to get something more expensive than the $15-$30 ones I see on amazon?

If you're going to get a cheap seatpost, get a kalloy/uno instead of whatever markov-generated chinese brand shows up first on amazon.

If you spring for something like a ritchey, it'll have a better designed and easier to use saddle clamp, which will be forged as part of the post instead of swaged into the end of it, so there's no chance it'll work itself loose.

I'd say the kalloy is fine, especially if you're not sure you're going to keep it

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Velo Orange sells a 25.4 seatpost for $25. It appears to be forged

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I didn't mention it but I'm pretty sure kalloy is, or is a brand/subsidiary of, the company that makes the seatposts and stems for all the bikes that come out of Taiwan. They're also an easy answer for "which threadless stem should I get?"

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

yeah, a carbon seatpost will need carbon assembly paste, and also you really ought to be using a torque wrench to tighten your seatpost collar to spec

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

my impression was that SON is still made in germany, which is why it is like three times as expensive as anything else, and that SP gets sold under several brand names (like Kasai) but not SON


highme posted:




How big is the crossover between people wanting to repair their bikes at home while enjoying Xanax?


beer definitely helps the wheel building process but I can't imagine xanax would

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

get a more ergonomic saddle and you probably won't need to gently caress around with a psnes inflator

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

:eyepop: is the nx part plastic?

surly dropout designs have always been kind of goofy

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

yeah, sounds like facing the headset and bottom bracket, except you need a different tool

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

mikemelbrooks posted:

Cheap digital verniers are crap.

M3.5 screws are used in the UK for plug sockets and light switches, and for VW split screen window frames. Ask me how I know, Probably the easiest way to test if it is m5 is to try it in the frame where the water bottle screw in.

I always wondered what the hell that exists for. I actually hid the 3.5mm hex wrench from my bondhus set because I kept grabbing it instead of the 4mm

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

are there still companies selling $40 titanium seatpost bolt kits?

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

someone reprogrammed your Di2 setup as a joke

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

iirc all sram shifters/derailleurs with the same number of gears are intercompatible

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

How bad is it really to mix tubeless sealants? I bought a new bike that came pre-filled with stans and I have a couple of other bikes on orange seal. I don't want to have to buy stans but I also don't want to unmount and thoroughly clean these tires when they dry out (or throw them away). :effort:


funkymonks posted:

Pedros Pig Juice

Delightful product name. I'm glad to have that in my search history

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

mAlfunkti0n posted:

[*] Mindset headset removed (with prejudice)

lmao I had to look this one up and apparently it is a race pressed into an integrated headset head tube so that they can used caged balls instead of a cartridge bearing. :psyduck: I can't imagine they saved more than a couple pennies per bike at any scale so I guess it exists just to increase the total amount of misery in the universe

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

do they not label those GS and SGS like the road derailleurs?

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

amenenema posted:

How did Thomson get such a solid reputation with such poor quality? I bought a seatpost clamp from them that was at least 3mm wider in diameter than advertised. A $5 no name one was within 0.1mm of spec.

Made in USA pride ( :murica: ) going hand in hand with people refusing to believe that 3D-forged Taiwanese stems are better in every way.

The seatposts are distinctive looking at least and are featured in 99.999999% of radavist photo shoots

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Does that say 2.8NM? Why is their torque spec so much lower than every other clamp I’ve encountered?

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

As a guess, I'd assume welding together a whole new bike frame would be cheaper than replacing the bottom bracket cluster like that

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

iospace posted:

I have new tubeless tires (Gravelking SS+), but no compressor (however I can access one near my work). I'll be using orange seal. What's the instructions here, and can I do it with just the floor pump?

You can try it. Seat the tire with an innertube, unseat the bead on one side and take the tube out, put the valve in, then pump as hard as you can to try to reseat the bead. Take the valve core out and put sealant in through the valve once the tire is seated successfully

e: actually, taking the valve core out before you pump can get you more airflow

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

VideoGameVet posted:

I'd like to build a decent (mechanical) 1x12 setup on a bike with a 135mm rear spacing.

Thinking of a 10-52 SRAM Cassette and a 40t chainring.

Does that make sense? Will that work on a typical gravel 650B wheel?


My grocery/errand/around-town bike is 650b, 42t chainring, 11-42 cassette and it works really well for me. I think your proposed set up is pretty good for most usage cases, though you may want a slightly bigger chainring if you are intending to do mostly gofast tryhard roadie stuff on pavement

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I'm going to give him the bare minimum credit for at least not building a DIY fork

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

lol very presumptuous of them to give themselves an XT-level part number :colbert:

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

is there any reason a press-in bottom bracket couldn't be put in with a cheap homemade headset press (the largest-diameter set of threaded rod, nuts and washers you can put together at the hardware store)?

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Tigren posted:

It's me, the guy who carries an extra shift cable in his saddle bag in case one breaks. And also a new chain in case one breaks. And also an extra saddle in case mine breaks. And also

I carry a laptop with me so that I can hack my SRAM firmware back into working condition if it shits itself

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

brake cables are thicker/stronger. all cables can snap but what people are talking about above is a design flaw in shimano 11-speed shifters which causes the barrel at the end of the cable to snap off within the shifter

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

meltie posted:

And in 10-speed land too. Ugh.


Yeah, you’re right, it’s anything with aero (under the bar tape) cable routing

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Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

send them back and get the right brake levers, imo

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