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iospace posted:What's the derailleur hanger used on the Journeyman? Mine got bent after a clipless related fall. Wheels #25. Go buy 2. Trust me.
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2020 15:35 |
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# ¿ May 21, 2024 01:22 |
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iospace posted:Done. Yup. Salt Fish posted:What do you guys think? Scotch tape or maybe some kind of glue? Also yup.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2020 00:14 |
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Getting three different wheel sets with hubs from different manufacturers to cooperate across two different bikes involves a lot of time patience and a handful of 0.5 and 1mm 6 bolt rotor spacers. But it's better than realigning calipers every other ride. Edit: itd be only 1 spacer if not for the shitry Joytech hubs on the Journeyman 650 wheels. Gonna be a lot easier to run multiple wheels when those die and I get more hopes. Hell I'm thinking of ordering 2 sets and just building wheels over winter. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Jul 29, 2020 |
# ¿ Jul 29, 2020 18:29 |
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jammyozzy posted:Hah, to stop the front brake rubbing on one of my bf's bikes we've had to pack around 1.5mm of shims between the LH hub bearing and end cap on both sets of wheels he has for it. Otherwise even with the caliper pushed out hard against the screws the outer pad rubs the disc constantly. And chance the end caps aren't the same for left and right and all this time you've been running with the caps in wrong?
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2020 00:21 |
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Could be a little bit of play in the freehub. Some hubs are just like that, especially the more inexpensive ones. Edit: if you've never taken apart a freehub body to try to take that play out lemme tell ya it's a whole lot of work messing about with the stack of paper thin shims and itty bitty bearings. It sucks a lot. Just leave it unless it's causing problems. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Aug 2, 2020 |
# ¿ Aug 2, 2020 17:16 |
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I often preach the benefits of always having a spare derailleur hanger on hand but especially with the GT Aggressor do yourself a favor and buy a derailleur hanger for that bike right now. Or two. We've been seeing a huge delay in getting ahold of those ones in particular. It's a nothing part most of the time but 2020 isn't most of the time. Don't want to see you posting that for whatever reason you bent your hanger and have to wait a month to get one. Should be a Wheels Manufacturing Dropout 94. Double check it looks like the one on your bike, just in case they changed it for 2020. Everything else about that bike is durable af and gonna offer you a fun time.
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# ¿ Aug 5, 2020 01:26 |
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It does look like something isn't right but I've seen a few frames where the stays aren't the exact same angle and one side is a touch closer than the other. Could also be the wheel isn't dished properly, or the frame is bent a touch. That being said, even if you got that wheel perfectly centered between those stays that's too tight a fit. You need smaller tires. Get some 700x40s or so on it so you can throw the fenders back on with plenty of clearance.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2020 16:21 |
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That is the jagged metal krusty-o of rim tape. Ditch it.
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# ¿ Aug 11, 2020 04:54 |
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Ill do my write-up tomorrow morning including posting pix because I just got home after I finished a days total of 170km on a hot as hell day including winning one of the sprints during this morning's group ride. Now I'm gonna go drink a beer in the shower and attempt to not fall asleep while eating half a pizza. Bikes are good.
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2020 03:16 |
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Those cassettes come with the spacer so dig around a bit more in your parts bin, it's probably at the bottom under one of those useless user manuals that's basically 'This is a bike part go online for more instructions!'
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# ¿ Aug 20, 2020 15:09 |
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Don't forget the page telling you that the cassette contains chemicals known to cause cancer in the state of California. Very important in case you decide to eat your cassette or grind it up into a powder and inhale it.
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# ¿ Aug 20, 2020 15:21 |
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CopperHound posted:Would you like me to make a video on how to service sticky hydro sram levers? Pitching those in the garbage might be satisfying but shipping them off for warranty and then selling the new ones they send as replacements (don't use em, they'll fail too, even the 'redesigned' ones) gets you money for actual good bike parts.
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2020 04:04 |
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I got $180 for the pair. They retail for $240 cdn.
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2020 04:21 |
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I'm p sure at this point they're so used to replacing their trash you could fill a garbage bag with SRAM levers and a return address, throw em over the fence of their HQ, and they'd ship you replacements. They come with stickers you can put on your bike that work really well as warning labels to let everyone around you know that your brakes are either going quit or just lock up at any given moment.
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# ¿ Sep 3, 2020 05:25 |
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At best going from a 28 to a 25 you don't need to do anything. At worst you should only need to back the B screw off a bit. Any barrel adjustments swapping between trainer and wheel would be the same regardless.
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# ¿ Sep 7, 2020 17:13 |
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Get the posts faced, that'll help. If that doesn't work 100% you'll either have to warranty it or live with it. I've never seen this with a rigid fork myself but a coworker is dealing with this on his gfs bike from a different manufacturer. I have seen this a lot with Suntour suspension forks. I have a Recon fork on order for my wife's Talon 1 for the same reason. Facing it made adjusting the brake literally every time the wheel comes off way easier but the problem persists. A lot of the Talons we build also suffer from the same chronic brake alignment issues. As soon as it comes in the Suntour fork is going in for warranty and the replacement is going up for sale. Kind of a shame because it's an air fork that works pretty good for the price point.
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2020 16:59 |
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norp posted:While you are there you can pick up an awl to tidy up the inner sheath of the outer after you cut it with them. Or if you have a busted wheel you've yet to cut up or a snapped spoke laying around just make a pokey spoke with a grinder or file. A spoke ground down to a point is an incredibly useful shop tool.
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# ¿ Oct 2, 2020 15:23 |
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Sometimes I make double butted or bladed pokey spokes just so I can look down my nose at plebs using straight gauge pokey spokes. Edit: another incredibly useful spoke based tool is to curl the spoke around tight to make a handle and affix the magnet from a speed sensor on the two ends, using the j bend for additional security. Use that thing to fish bearings out of hubs and stuff. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Oct 2, 2020 |
# ¿ Oct 2, 2020 16:33 |
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If you're handy with a needle and thread sew it shut then rubber cement a patch on top, from the inside. Otherwise bin it, thats a big slice.
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# ¿ Oct 4, 2020 13:54 |
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If the rings and freewheel are so old they no longer interface with a new chain it could definitely be necessary to change everything. Honestly though unless you really like the bike it'd probably be worth it to put that kind of money into a new bike.
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# ¿ Nov 9, 2020 16:34 |
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Hey if you like the bike, go for it. A new drivetrain in an older bike isn't a waste of money as long as the frame and wheels are in decent shape. Enjoy that new drivetrain feeling!
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2020 00:31 |
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I don't care if I have to screw it in with a wrench, press it in with a bearing press, or hammer it in with my face, I just want us to go back to one loving BB standard.
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# ¿ Dec 16, 2020 16:22 |
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Shimano gets super duper mad at you for not buying their chain. Also maaaaaybe it won't shift quite as nice but you probably won't even notice.
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2020 18:51 |
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SRAM quicklinks work on Shimano 9-11 speed. KMC also sells quicklinks separately. Also Shimano 11 and 12s chains now have quicklinks. One thing though is when using Shimano SRAM or KMC for any speed above 8 you can't keep pulling them apart like connex links. The manual says you can remove and reinstall 9 speeds a few times but I find the second time it's super loose. That being said the trick to master pins is to both remove normal pins and in install master pins (dont remove master pins, also dont break chains by pushing a normal pin out part way then back in) by pushing them through back to front. Edited for clarity. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Dec 17, 2020 |
# ¿ Dec 17, 2020 19:46 |
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Yup. Pushing a pin out far enough to break the chain leaving one end in the outer plate and then pushing the same pin back in risks the chain coming apart under load. It was fine on old wide arse chains with a lot of material on the outer plate but not advisable in any modern bike chain. Anyone who says otherwise is risking their anatomy to save a few bucks on a master pin/quicklink.
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2020 22:34 |
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Shifting being fine on one side and poo poo on the other is bent hanger 80% of the time bad cable or housing 15% of the time extremely bad chainline 5% of the time and lol glhf trying random things until it starts working again 1% of the time.
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# ¿ Dec 23, 2020 23:01 |
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Definitely. Put a physical barrier between the two or even take the wheels off if you have time.
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# ¿ Jan 10, 2021 14:04 |
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Dren posted:i wrapped a grocery bag around the rotor and caliper last time. If I take the wheel fully off, I assume I still need to use a non-spray degreaser on the cassette or protect the rotor somehow while using the spray stuff. Honestly even a piece of cardboard held directly between the rotor and can while spraying will do fine if you're leaving the wheel on. I never go as far as wrapping something on the rotors in that case, taking the wheel off would be faster. If you pop the wheel off then ya for the cassette throwing a bag on the rotor takes 2 seconds.
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# ¿ Jan 10, 2021 15:43 |
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At least you'll have good shifting a quarter of the time.
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# ¿ Jan 15, 2021 02:50 |
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Ya but it's still 2 parts from the same company. Perfect excuse to try a Box rear mech, IMO.
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# ¿ Jan 15, 2021 03:18 |
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All bikes come with the front caliper uninstalled (and sometimes with hydros coiled up so bad it looks like a pig tail when assembled ) and I can't remember the last time I built a bike and didn't have to adjust the rear brake. That shop owes you new bolts and their mechanic needs to either throw out his Allen keys or stop using the ball head wrench to torque down bolts.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2021 04:07 |
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eSporks posted:Are they flat mount? Would the tiny T25 that comes with Avid rotors fit in there properly? Screw SRAM for using Torx on their caliper bolts. Completely glazed over that part of the post. Flat mount in general has been a much bigger pain in the rear end than post or IS for assembly but eh, looks pretty I guess. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Feb 11, 2021 |
# ¿ Feb 11, 2021 14:22 |
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It's even easier to strip or wreck your wrench than hex and while you should never use it to really torque it down being able to use a ball end hex makes setting up brakes so much easier. Granted the bolts being on the bottom of a flat mount rear makes it way less of a pain than it would be using torx on post mount.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2021 20:37 |
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Eh maybe it's the torx wrenches we use. They seem to get mangled a little too easily and the park one also has a habit of snapping. Agree on the loving bolts with ball wrenches. They're amazing for getting bolts spun in but anything much beyond finger tight and you're gonna have trouble (and with torx even finger tight at an angle is asking for grief that's gotta be square on always). I use the ball end all the time to get calipers centered but when it comes time to actually crank it down the bolts for the rear one I have to fish in my pouch to get the one key that fits in there. XS post mount frames can suck a bag of dicks all day.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2021 21:18 |
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sweat poteto posted:Front caliper bolt clearance is indeed crap, at least with 160mm rotors. The lovely Tektro that came busted on a new bike ended up with that same mark from removal. Why you'd want to put flat mount calipers on a cheap hybrid is beyond me. You literally can't buy replacements, at least not from our suppliers, so glhf if you break it in a way that isn't covered by warranty.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2021 04:52 |
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Hydros are just cursed. If it isn't that it's Levels/Guides that break and lock up after a few months of use it's Shimanos that leak from the caliper out of the box or Tektros with brand new levers that pull to the bar because of blown seals. And don't get me started on that lovely hybrid system Giant had on some bikes for a few years. That's 100% remove throw in garbage install compressionless housing and Spyres right there. Never seen someone have to skip a ride because their BB7 decided it just didn't want to work that morning. I'd probably be singing a different tune if I did more mountain biking or road/gravel riding where there's actually hills tall enough you aren't just bombing down em.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2021 14:23 |
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Anything that can be added to the shitbin should be added to the shitbin, until the shitbin gets full then it's time to throw things out based on how many parts there are left that you can scavenge off of it.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2021 20:27 |
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You'll regret it 5 years from now when you need a spare bleed port screw for an out of production brake caliper. Bike shop lyfe.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2021 22:18 |
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If you can find it the GRX stuff is great. Get a 44t or so ring put an 11-42 on the back and go to town.
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2021 00:49 |
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# ¿ May 21, 2024 01:22 |
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Don't clamp your bike by the top tube. Also your flickr stream is very pretty and that old blue bike with the silver fork is fuckin rad and I hope you still have it.
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2021 00:44 |