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I’ve done through the stem for years without issues. I end up bending my valve cores while trying to inflate tires before they get clogged or something (I need a new pump)
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Aug 4, 2020 05:19
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I don’t even use a real injector just a syringe that happens to fit inside them stem
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Aug 4, 2020 06:10
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Ugh I need to check sealant level in all my bikes. I think I need to add
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Aug 8, 2020 15:17
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Why do you need 36 spokes
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Aug 18, 2020 18:03
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Salt Fish posted:36 spokes isn't necessary for every application, but if you're not worried about being fast and you might load your bike with 300 lbs or jump it more than a foot off the ground, you might as well go for it. yes which is why I asked!
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Aug 18, 2020 18:58
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Do I need an adapter to change from a FSA crank with a press fit BB (this is an older Cervelo frame so I think it's a BBright style)? I don't need to swap the BB for any particular reason but changing from the FSA crank it came with to a R7000 crank...Shimano documation doesn't mention anything for using their BBs but seems like wheels manufacturing makes an adapter...?
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Dec 16, 2020 15:46
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yeah just found that, I guess the thing is the spindle size as BBRight is for 30mm spindles and Shimano stuff is 24 Since the BB doesn't creak and seems to spin fine I'd rather not replace it if I can avoid that and will just try the adapter...and have to figure out chainline and spacers 
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Dec 16, 2020 16:22
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CopperHound posted:https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bbright/bbright-adapters/bbright-adapter-for-shimano-cranks.html yeah thats what epilot linked
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Dec 16, 2020 18:37
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so hmm...I guess the best move is just to measure the existing clearance with the current crankset and when I install the adapater and new crankset, make sure the chainring and crank clearance is the same and if not, add spacers as needed Or I guess go through the trouble of measuring the actual chainline and such
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Dec 16, 2020 19:23
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In which ring up front? Small ring will probably make noise in those gears. Large ring, have you tried the barrel adjuster to change the cable tension? Quarter turn clockwise see if it gets better or worse, repeat as necessary or try the other direction. Finally, derailleur hanger might be bent a bit which could cause issues
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Dec 17, 2020 00:51
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highme posted:Universal sold me a hydraulic bleed/fill kit, will that adapter be in there? If it was for current gen stuff then it should. It looks like this: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/shimano-st-r9120-funnel-adapter-o-ring
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Dec 21, 2020 22:10
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I use KMC+Ultegra rings all the time with no issues
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Jan 11, 2021 04:35
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LordOfThePants posted:I bought this one for working on my bikes: I have that one too, seems fine.
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Mar 6, 2021 01:37
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Cuntpunch posted:I'll have to hit it with some isopropyl this weekend and see if that helps - thanks for the suggestion - I've been fearing that the next step is to hunt down a centerlock wrench and actually yank the rotor off and hit it with some sandpaper. That or just live with it for the like 5 weeks it'll take to get it into a shop for service. you don't need to take the rotor off to sand paper it down, just get a small piece and scrub both sides of the braking area lightly. you're not really taking off a bunch of material or doing anything crazy just roughing up the surface enough to help bed the pads and rotor in again. I'd do the whole thing...take out the pads, clean with iso alcohol, clean the rotor with iso alcohol, then scuff up both the pads and the rotor with some sandpaper then re-assemble and re-bed the pads
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Jun 25, 2021 19:03
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EvilJoven posted:Except for disc brake mounts oh my god. one of the guys that does factor bikes and whos factory used to do a ton of different brands said they told Santa Cruz they could face the brake mounts to perfection for them for an extra like $15-20/frame and Santa Cruz said no that didn't fit in their business model projections etc which probably isn't a crazy idea...$15-20 a frame doesn't seem like much to us but that's an extra cost on top of a base cost of the frame and overall might be hard to make that shift
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Jul 5, 2021 03:52
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Cuntpunch posted:Replaced chain - went for a 20km round-trip ride, with a stop for vaccination in the middle - noticed that when at cadence - primarily in the highest gear, there was a certain specific *feel* that went along with pedaling. No noise, and it definitely wasn't a "hey, chain is gunked up" feel - I'd almost want to call it a "micro-vibration" or possibly just a very acute feeling of the chain interfacing with the teeth? by highest gear you mean smallest cog? that tends to happen on the extremes of the cassette but is probably more noticeable in the smallest cog. It's just chainline...since the chain has to move over to a point further away from the center line of the chainring, it makes the disengaging and engaging of teeth less smooth than if you were running the chain in the middle of the cassette and the chainline straight. Basically the chain has to run at a slant from the chainring in order to reach the largest or smallest cogs and that slant puts more friction on it engaging/disengaging the teeth It's normal
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Aug 13, 2021 19:41
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SimonSays posted:What part of your cassette are you greasing? They usually go on dry, except sometimes the lockring if you're feeling deluxe Feel like I see arguments both ways about this. Some say thin layer of grease on the freehub body, others say dry I’d always grease or anti sieze the lock ring threads though
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Aug 22, 2021 15:21
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yeah if you're not on di2 then there's been a glitch in the matrix
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Sep 2, 2021 20:26
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Mechanical Pencil posted:Note to self: depending on what the bolt is threading into if you can just put locktight on the receiving threads then you don't have to worry about that... marsisol posted:I'm putting together a second wheelset for my gravel bike and I can't properly get the tire seated. Always seems to be a "lowspot" and I've tried all the tricks so now I'm worried about compatibility. Wheels are Giant CXR1s and tires are Giant Course 1 28s. Tubeless set up. Wheelset is hookless but apparently compatible with these tires. Any ideas? did you do the trick of putting it in with a tube first and letting it sit for awhile, then only unseating one side so you can take the tube out, put the tubeless valve stem in, and then try? Levitate fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Mar 18, 2022 |
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Mar 18, 2022 04:44
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IMO in person versus buying online kind of comes down to availability and your budget. Buying online from a big retailer like competitive cyclist can be cheaper and they might have stuff in stock that local shops don't, but if all else is equal then it's nice to buy local IMO Just don't go into a shop and ask if they can price match an online retailer
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Apr 17, 2022 23:24
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VelociBacon posted:For small items I agree but for big purchases I don't think you need to donate money to these business owners and it's more than okay to mention that xyz bike is available online for [20% less] and would they consider price matching that to earn your business. I’ve talked to and been friends with a lot of bike shop employees that didn’t like it when people tried to get them to price match  Though I’m not sure it’s ever been on a full bike
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Apr 22, 2022 23:13
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Pro racing cleaning and mechanic work isn’t the same as regular persons. They’re constantly doing it and regreasing and lubing things and at least in mountain bike XC it’s not uncommon to completely degrease bearings in the bottom bracket for instance and relube with a light oil to lessen the friction. They don’t need that to last months or years, just one race before they tear it down and redo it all again Basically pro mechanics aren’t really working within the same parameters as regular people edit: to be clear, I should have watched the video and did not and it sounds like he's talking about regular 'ol bike washing, I was reacting to the idea that pro mechanics don't know how to wash bikes or follow "best practices" lol Levitate fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Jul 12, 2022 |
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Jul 12, 2022 16:53
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 00:30 |
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yeah specialized hosed people over with that level build and glued the crank bolt in and made the bolt out of cheese Had the same issue with mine when I removed it e: don't forget you'll need a new bottom bracket if you're switching to shimano cranks. And you'll need the adapter to install it because shimano decided to make the BB interface smaller than what most tools will use but they don't include the adapter anymore! This one basically I think but then as I said make sure you have a tool or adapter that will fit https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XT-BB-MT800-Bottom-Bracket Levitate fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Mar 6, 2023 |
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Mar 6, 2023 20:21
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