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sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
CO2 is more of a convenience & speed thing than anything about the tire bead. I carried it when I used tubes too. As such, I'm not carrying anything different with tubeless than I did prior to switching. Sealant is the main additional cost but I buy fewer tubes now so it's a wash.

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sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

FogHelmut posted:

WTB don't hold air? I was really looking at the Resolute.

I have wtb resolute 650b on Stan's crest rims. Holds air just fine between rides, better than my road bike.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
1" Gorilla works fine though. I'd use that if you've got it rather than wait for $10 green tape to arrive.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:

What's the minimum kit need? The various kits seem to come with different equipment, double syringes vs one, reservoir / no reservoir etc..

Which brakes? Sram? Shimano? Road? Mtb?

Eg the sram road kit is basically 2 threaded syringes. Plus you'd need some small hex and torx bits for the bleed port screws. Easy enough to do, just follow the directions.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
I added some beeswax for shits and giggles and also it smells way better than plain paraffin wax.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

a loathsome bird posted:

I was always taught to do the opposite- the valve is the first spot you get the bead on and the last spot where you may need a tire lever should be roughly 180° from the valve. Is there a reason to do the valve side last?

Doing the valve edge last allows the opposite side of the wheel to sit in the middle of the center channel and provide a few mm more slack. If you start at the valve, it can't do that and it'll be more difficult to get that final piece over the rim.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

Dolemite posted:

Went and looked at videos for cable replacement to get this started. Turns out that the cable didn’t come with any ferrules. WTF? So now I gotta track down where to get these. I’m sure they can be ordered online, but paying shipping for 15 cent pieces of metal? I’d rather not.

Use a drop of super glue.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
I reused sram links for longer than that so the connex links should be at least as tough. They're still awkward to reinstall, using a spoke or coat hanger clip like that makes it much easier.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

Anza Borrego posted:

I’m going to call my LBS in the morning, hopefully axles are regular stock items because I’m supposed to be taking bikes up to Utah next weekend...
If you're lucky they'll have something that fits. There is no common standard for thru-axles, every one is specific to the fork or frame or was made for.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

Anza Borrego posted:

Thanks for this.
LBS is closed on Mondays, so I called Stan’s (wheelmaker) who referred me to Jamis for frame-specific axles. Jamis is checking inventory to see if they have it in stock, but will only sell through the LBS...
Fingers crossed.

If Jamis can give you specs on the axle (diameter, total length, threaded length, thread pitch) you can almost certainly find an aftermarket one that fits. eg https://y3m.net/thru-axles/

Edit: or if someone else has the same bike/year they can read it off too. The specs are usually printed on the axle itself, just have to pop it out.

sweat poteto fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Oct 12, 2020

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
I used to discard those but now I keep a current one for each bike, just in case insurance needs it one day :ohdear:

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

eSporks posted:

What's your favorite tubeless tape?

CopperHound posted:

I like tapemaster powder coat masking tape. It is less than $10 for a 60 m roll. I imagine it isn't much different than kapton tape. Make sure the rim is clean of all adhesive residue, if you tried gorilla tape you're going to have to spend some time cleaning the rim with spirits. Stretch the tape REALLY tight, to make sure it doesn't wrinkle. No, tighter. Finally, the tape should go a little up the rim sidewall without folding over on itself.

Tight!

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Getting tension on the tape is really the secret to that stuff. It buckles easily unless you haul on it. Once fitted it's great though: just the right width for modern rims and one layer with a few inches overlap does it.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
It's not very "tacky" but when you get some stretch on it, it'll stay stuck. Unless your rim is teflon or something,

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Front caliper bolt clearance is indeed crap, at least with 160mm rotors.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

bicievino posted:

Virtually everyone who cares about going fast on a bike should be on a zero offset seatpost.

I went from a stock setback post to an inline post to a forward-offset post (?!) to a custom frame with a 78 degree seat tube (and an inline post). Don't look at me like that! I'm normal dammit!

I wish I was fast though.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

jammyozzy posted:

I was considering a forward post on one of my bikes.

I used the Fast Forward post as a test before getting the frame. No problem except it's ugly as hell.. and I crushed the carbon at the clamp, but that's probably my fault. The redshift post looks better.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

kimbo305 posted:

I'm thinking about cutting open the loop and unfurling it to make a little box wrench.

The dt holder worked OK for me with the sw40, but I have seen some people strip the rubber off the top/inside part to give more clearance at that point.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Frame will almost certainly come with the headset, probably an FSA.
The sram chainrings are direct mount and there are several vendors, race face aren't the prettiest but generally on the affordable end, also Wolf Tooth and others.
The shifters and calipers will come pre-bled and attached, but you'll probably want to adjust the hose length so get ready to bleed some brakes. A bleed kit is like $40 but it's good to have.
Any particular reason you're doing marathons and tubes instead of tubeless?
Worth getting a tension meter for the wheel build.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

sweat poteto posted:

The sram chainrings are direct mount and there are several vendors, race face aren't the prettiest but generally on the affordable end, also Wolf Tooth and others.

Whoops, not apex as Kimbo said. If you're not getting a complete group, I'd get a different chainset like praxis or Easton ea90 that take DM rings. Easier to swap and unambiguous compatibility.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Praxis offers to include a bottom bracket with the chainsets they sell for like $30 and it comes with the installation tool.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

kimbo305 posted:

Is brake mount facing a thing shops will do? Or do they just sand/file like I could at home?

VAR and Park both make pretty fancy specialized tools for this purpose so it'd depend if the shop has the gear to do it properly. Given how crappy a lot of mounts are it'd be a smart tool for a shop to have.


:eyepop:

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
In theory if something big enough sticks to the tire it could jam at the fork crown and lock up your front wheel. If you ride in very heavy rain you might get some drag.
Completely depends on what surfaces and weather you're riding through. 5mm could be perfectly fine on good dry road.
Mainly small clearance makes them quite fussy to keep aligned over time.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

Dren posted:

ugh i am probably gonna have to go to the hardware store, i hate buying hardware pieces it sucks rear end

If you can't find one locally, ebay has M5 and all other metric sizes in any length you want for a few bucks. Or brake rotor bolts might work for you, I think they're M5 x 12mm (though probably T25 not hex).

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

mexecan posted:

So I just went to switch out my cassette between two sets of wheels and I can see that notches formed on the free hub body.

I’ve ordered a new free hub body from Hunt but how can I avoid having this happen again?

You can't really avoid it for an alloy piece. Some hubs have steel inserts in it to reduce the effect, or you can go to titanium on top tier hubs or just plain steel if you don't mind the weight.

Torque it down to spec and don't worry about it until it affects shifting performance, which should be 10s of 1000s of miles.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Never forget.

Yeah the FD just dumps all the tension and hits the stopper, so it's loud (Force 22 too)

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Just curious - how is there a gap? Is the tube or post deformed / destroyed? Have you tried putting the saddle in a vice and rotating the frame?

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Handy visual:

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

SimonSays posted:

Get a nicer seatpost

E: not a joke, that type of seat clamp was always awful and yours is deformed and hosed up. A cheap seatpost will be 24$ and a nice-ish one like 60.

^ this. A modern kalloy post is under 20 bux and perfectly serviceable.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
The rim design could account for that if it was an issue, don't worry about it. Asymmetry seems good but it's probably not the main deciding factor in chosing a rim.

Building wheels is a fun project - I've built 3 sets during covid and none haven't failed me yet, not for lack of trying. I highly recommend the Musson book.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

Wifi Toilet posted:



I may have had to redo the first 7 spokes on the second wheel after realizing I started on the wrong flange.

Nice! What parts?

Left wheel looks a bit screwy but could just be the angle of view.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

CopperHound posted:

Just ignore the fact that torque specs are for clean dry threads,

:eek:

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
I used to run a Thomson seatpost clamp and it was fine, but when I got a new one for some reason they replaced the bolt with a ridiculous little m3 or something.





Chucked it in and got a Salsa clamp instead (the poor man's Phil)

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Can confirm, the PDW tape is tough.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
It would be pretty major frame surgery to chop out the BB and weld in the pinion fixture. I wouldn't bet hard on ASX/Pinion compatibility any time soon.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Unlimited tire size and space for fenders is good enough reason to use disc brakes. Zero maintenance and immunity to rain are just bonuses.

And electric shifting is coming whether you want it or not, unless you want to stay on low tier 11 speed groups forever. 105/rival+ = electric (and disc) only.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Spoke length? I've never heard of a tension app, except the ones that visualize the values with the goal of making them equal.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Heat shunk tubing becomes less flexible, it might not keep a tight enough seal compared to tight rubber tube + some sealant. I've only used very small hs tubing for dynamo wiring though, maybe there are other types.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
That is a great deal. With the bits, and an extension, for half what I paid for a BBB one with fewer bits.

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sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
The main difference is the stainless steel bearing races, right? Might be worth it if it gets wet or sweated on a lot, but the forty is a workhorse and headsets aren't difficult to replace.

I seem to recall the hellbender only comes in a few configurations unlike the other series', so it may or may not work for your frame. Eg it doesn't look like there's a combo for a non-integrated tapered head tube.

sweat poteto fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Oct 25, 2022

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