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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Hypnolobster posted:

how dare you


Wow that feature looks really cool.

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I think it's mostly a matter of how cheap it is to have those hands connected to a Taiwanese worker.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

kimbo305 posted:

At current bike sales volumes, does either tech run the risk of wearing out a die or mold in the run of a bike?
A popular model in a common size, over a few years of using that frame / geo, will sell what, a few thousand bikes?
Rear triangles will be... 10,000 units?


I can see the hourly pay being higher, but will all welding on a frame come anywhere close to time to lay up the tubes, join the tubes, and finish the frame? I'm assuming most big places are still making their own carbon tubes and not doing monocoque?

I feel like welding a frame is half a day's work, with layup for an FS frame being far more time? Ignoring all bake time in the autoclave, and all downstream assembly, like pivots, shocks, etc.
Maybe I'm grossly underestimating the speed at which they can throw on the layers. At which point, the limiting factor is number of molds and autoclave size.

I got a tour of the Intense factory in the 00's and I think they said their (master) welders did a couple frames a day. I suspect with companies like Giant it's not done by hand so it probably takes 30 min of welding per bike there.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

evil_bunnY posted:

hello friends do any of you have experience with kids knee/elbow pads? our oldest has taken quite the taste to park riding but doesn’t like bruising over and over.

Because kids can be such different sizes at whatever age I strongly recommend going to a bike shop and trying stuff on. They're all going to provide about the same level of protection so just worry about what is going to be comfortable enough that she or he is actually going to want to wear it. I use the 661 Evo protection jacket thing with D30 inserts when I ride park (and the matching compression shorts). It's comfortable enough and I can take the d30 out and wash it every time I use it which is nice.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

If it fits you it's a fine price to get yourself out there. If you don't love it you can probably sell it for the same price.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Does the maxxis hookworm still exist?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

evil_bunnY posted:

Gentle goones I need skatepark slicks (>2") in 27,5". Does such a thing exist? Gravelking TLC?
What are my options for 20"? Schwalbe Crazy Bob 54-406?

Anyone ride on (polished) concrete with those sizes?

I wouldn't be afraid to throw 26" wheels on a skatepark bike. Or if it's a shared duty bike maybe pick up some cheap 26" wheels from pinkbike (they're basically free these days) and throw some awesome tires on there.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

You can use denture cleaning tablets in those water packs to keep them cleanish.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Anyone have a 12x150mm, shimano 8/9/10 freehub DH wheel or hub they want to sell a nice goon?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Ropes4u posted:

I didn’t think it was bad, but my wife dropped at 3-4 miles and went back to the car because her asthma reared it’s ugly head.

They make collapsible spacers for MDIs, might be an idea to carry one with her for her rescue inhaler in case she runs into real trouble someday.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

So I did my first fork (fox 34 rhythm) lower service (bath oil and airspring clean and lube, left damper alone) last week and it all went pretty well I though. Rode the bike a few times, felt great.

I was loving around with it today and noticed the following:
- A few mm of sag from the weight of the bike
- Soft squeezing/squishing/squelching noise from the airspring side if I slowly compress/extend the fork, that is separate from the cycling an airspring noise we all know and love.


Is any of this normal or point to a mistake I made? I think it's new after the rebuild but don't remember if the bike did it factory fresh. I used a pretty small amount of slickoleum, just left a film on all the o-rings and sealheads instead of the goopy mess that was in there to start.

The thing rides great (maybe 5 hours on it since rebuild) and I didn't notice the problem until I had the bike upside down to replace front brake pads and realized that I could move the fork a few mm pretty easy, then I noticed the sound.

Thoughts?

Something that comes to mind - did you repressurize the shock without fully extending it first? Try making sure the shock is fully extended and recheck the pressure. There might be something to do with the negative air spring as well where it wants to be pumped up at full extension.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Suburban Dad posted:

Couple tire questions I wouldn't mind getting thoughts on. I'm seeing some odd wear on the right knobs (left side in picture) on the inside edge on both front and rear. Any idea what causes this? Same tire, Bontrager XR4 2.4. Running 21/23 psi tubeless and around 195 lbs so I don't think I'm going crazy low. No rim strikes or anything like that or wheel issues due to it so far. It's like this the whole way around with wear and chunks worn away.


Next, how long do tires last generally? Probably depends on a million things but I've never had to replace any due to wear thus far so even a range would be helpful. I'm a little over 800 miles on these and I seem to be having more sketchy moments on trail (front and rear both losing grip at times) but not sure if that's a result of the dry summer and dusty blown out trails, tire wear, or dicking with cockpit and making stem shorter and riser bars (less weighting on the front so more washouts, etc.). Seems like plenty of rubber still there so I'm inclined to keep using them or swap the front to the rear and get a new front possibly.

Rear:


Front:


I think you just get the bike leaned over more when you turn right, more comfortable going that way maybe. Are you a left foot forward person?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

The bike will be fine, your body will be the limiting factor for jumping a rigid bike IMO.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Stuff like that I'd just run a lower gear for torque and try to keep the bike moving. Or if it's in a downhill section look for a rock you can use at the beginning to jump the whole mess.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Mexican Radio posted:

Those features look fun but I am not able to relate to this idea of riding rocks that have actual water on them and this concept confuses and frightens me.

There isn't even any river running down it!

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

h3r0n posted:

I wouldn't even begin to know how to get this much in one day in Ohio. Nice work.


Does anyone have any wheelset recommendations for a 'bigger' dude. I'm ~235 in riding gear and blew out another rear hub. This was the one that came with my Pivot - SUN Ringle DUROC 29 30mm - so nothing special at all. I might just get a new rear and deal with the front when that time comes.

Hubs shouldn't fail because the rider is heavier - I've never heard of it happening. Was it new? You might want to ask about warranty. If it's not new, are you overtightening the rear axle (this shouldn't really make a difference still) or maybe blasting water into the hub with a pressure washer after your rides? I'm probably only about 15lbs lighter than you in full riding gear and I've not had any issues with hubs failing in that manner. I try to regrease my hubs after each season but this is DH riding and they take a lot more abuse.

In the rare event you're running a 12x150 rear wheel I have a new DT Swiss DT350 I'm looking to sell :v

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

a foolish pianist posted:

There are trails near me where I have to quickly lean the bike one way or the other to avoid hitting my bars.

You'll find this doesn't change with modern bar widths, I had similar concerns but I'm on 800mm bars now (from 760) and honestly it feels way better. I'm 6'2" so maybe 760 was just too small I dunno.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Had a little bit of a crash at whistler, thankfully not really injured, bike is fine, and it was on my last day of the trip.

There's audio in this and I'm in pain and I left that in so if you're going to be uncomfortable with it be warned!

https://imgur.com/a/FfZ75cr

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

regulargonzalez posted:

I can't seem to find this model/year/colourway combo. Anyone know more about it or have a link? The price they're asking seems pretty low, under $1000, and I want to do some research before driving the hour there.

http://imgur.com/a/bGqRxBG

For example, the image says Enduro Expert but the 2015 had different fork and rd https://m.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Specialized/Enduro-Expert-Carbon-650b,15208

I think that's the 2014 Specialized Enduro Expert.

https://www.rotorburn.com/forums/index.php?threads/2014-specialized-enduro-comp-26.270058/

I have a 2011 spec enduro expert. It's a great bike but there is an upper limit to what I would pay for a 26" wheeled bike.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

regulargonzalez posted:

Thanks a bunch! In one of the pics there seems to be small nicks / pitting, not sure how worried I should be about that on 6 year old carbon.

I feel like $900 is a decent price though, no? I've been a roadie my whole biking life but the area I live in now is much more mtb oriented. Just worried if I'll be sad about 10 speed and no dropper if I go with this bike.

I paid $1500 CAD (about 1200 USD?) for my 2011 3 years ago. You can always add a dropper very easily and drivetrains are adaptable, the only thing is the 26" wheel that you can't get away from on that bike (I think it's fine).

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

toiletbrush posted:

MTB noob checking in with a question - I've noticed a few times on (small) jumps that sometimes my front wheel gets kicked and turns left or right. Normally it seems to work out ok, but yesterday on a particularly jumpy trail it sent me over the bars on landing. I got an awesome looking bloody arm but since then I've hit every jump kinda gingerly and it sucks.

Is there any obvious advice for this? I'm pretty terrible at bunny hops and tend to yank the front up on drops etc so figure this is probably part of my problem.

It's hard to say but from your description it seems like you're playing too much of a part in the jumping if that makes sense. Ideally when you're rolling up the lip of a jump you're very neutral on the bike, eyes up and ready to spot your landing, knees and arms bent and relaxed, maybe loading the suspension a little through your legs by deweighting the bike just before the jump so when your weight comes back down onto the bike it's at the same time as you roll up the lip. You basically want the bike to continue to arc up into the air following the curve of the lip. If you just stand on your bike and sorta bounce up and down as slow as you can through your legs, you want to be at that weightless point when you're leaving the lip of the jump.

My advice is to try to be aware of the whole bike when you're jumping (not just the front half that you can see) and to focus on being as relaxed as possible. There shouldn't be any kind of handlebar input for 95% of jumps. Focus on deweighting the bike so you float through an arc onto the landing.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Spime Wrangler posted:

c o p p e r h a r b o r c l i n i c

monster berms!



good weekend, few injuries, no shuttles, no indoors, lots of pedaling, and big progression for a ton of people.

Excellent to see you looking at the exit of the corner as you approach - this is one of the things that I find makes a big difference for people getting used to aggressive cornering/bike park style berms. It's a basic concept in motor racing but I notice very few people doing it on bikes.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

vote_no posted:

Also, I’ve looked at videos of particular Whistler trails and thought “It’s just switchbacks over and over again? Seems boring.”

I’m probably wrong about that, but I really do like the variety of corners and elevation changes we have in the UP... and a bunch of that is all machine-built.

It seems like there’s just builders who make boring trails. It’s so great to be in an area where that doesn’t seem to be a problem at all.

Areas in Whistler like creekside do have 3-4 trails which are basically just machine built smooth runs with big berms cutting back and forth. The other machine cut trails (A-Line, Dirt Merchant, others) provide a series of very interesting features like drops and huge jumps that allow you to progress as you get more used to the trail. There is very rarely a time when you're riding Whistler that you can't see the next interesting thing coming up.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Aphex- posted:

So I've got a creak somewhere on my bike that's been annoying me. Cleaned and regreased the BB, cranks, pedals, headset, had the brakes bled and adjusted with new pads, torqued all the bolts and checked the cassette is tightened properly and I think I've finally found what's making the noise. It's my chainring where it's attached to my crank.

And like every other maintenance job it seems, I have to buy a new tool to be able to get the chainring off the crank. It never ends!

Hopefully this will fix the creak though because it's pretty obnoxious.

What tool do you think you need to take the chainring off the crank? This is generally just allen keys.

I looked back at your posts, looks like maybe you have the RF Aeffect chainring thing? You use a BB tool on the inside to loosen it off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KXv9CtoBcE

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Ropes4u posted:

It is my wife and I’s first time at a downhill park, we will definitely be doing this more often.

TLDR: downhill is fun

Yes! Ha ...haha. Yes!

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Levitate posted:

Curiosity, why lean towards a 27.5 bike vs 29er?

Interesting to see how things currently still seem to be trending more and more 29er these days but I can see some specific appeal for a more maneuverable bike in some cases.

Seeing all the pros having massive crashes because their 29" rear wheel hit them in the rear end as they tucked over a jump is almost enough for me to just want to stick to 27.5". I also feel like it must be a stronger wheel in general, being smaller.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

spwrozek posted:

Today was the first time in 13 years riding that I crashed so hard that I was unable to continue. We were shuttling the Windsor trail in Santa Fe. Not really sure what happened but OTB into some rocks was the TLDR. I tried my best to find the line between deep rear end bruise and broken femur I think. Arm and back are all scrapped up as well. I can weight my leg trying to actually walk and move it around is brutal. Really lucky that I was able to push the bike a 1/4 mile to the road and call for a pick up. I am out for a while I think but could have been worse.

Glad you're alright.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

h3r0n posted:

Anyone ever get a cross chain issue with a new chain and rear cassette? Easy fix?

The gears index nice and smooth and everything 'feels' ok - but there is a decent crunch under load. Google says its a common problem I feel I'd get a better answer here though.

Decent crunch under load when you're shifting or just pedalling normally? What components do you have? Is it possible your chain is mounted backwards (facing the wrong way)? I've never had a drivetrain that didn't complain a bit if you shifted under load but it shouldn't make any sound once you're in gear.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

yoohoo posted:

Biking in Colorado > everywhere else.

:actually:

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

kimbo305 posted:

But I'm too cowardly to even attempt unmounting the unwobbly rear :negative:
The other option I looked at was a slightly wider and hopefully looser 2.5 DHF. But could also do 2.6 DHF.

I wouldn't run a 2.5 or 2.6 on my downhill bike, I think it's kinda crazy to consider putting any 2.5 or 2.6 tire on a bike you have to pedal around unless you really find that a 2.4 isn't enough.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I grew up riding an original super 8 with Monster Ts and I think 2.7" Nokian gazzaloddis but I'm not 14 anymore and I want agility in my bike!

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Ropes4u posted:

How dumb of an idea is it to buy a Commencal 29/27.5 downhill bike?

They seem fantastic! Fantastique

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Ropes4u posted:

My wife is 100% onboard and the park is close enough to hit every month it’s open.


They are close enough we can torment their shop for a ride, and everything I have read appears positive.

Thanks for the input (validation).

Oh, I'm down in Vancouver so if you pick up a DH bike you automatically join my band of merry misfits.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Unsinkabear posted:

:thunk:

This thread makes me resent Florida a little. I wish I could live somewhere with access to all your beautiful mtb-friendly mountains (or ANY mountains, for that matter), without giving up having interesting paddling spots.

We do get some cool swampy trails like Alafia, but it's not quite the same.

I'm down in Vancouver because Commencal is an hour drive north of me! We have paddling here too.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

me your dad posted:

I need new grips and I'm trying to decide between ODI Rogue lock-on, which is the only grip I have used in the last 15 years, and the ESI Extra Chunky grips, which I have never used. To those who use ESI grips, while they look smooth, I imagine they are very grippy - can you confirm? One thing I like about the Rogues, besides how meaty they are, is that they feel almost tacky to the touch.

You need to try OURY grips, they're perfect. I've been using them for a couple seasons, switched from rogues, they're the perfect grip. The non-lock-on ones are the best.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

me your dad posted:

Is there a reason why you prefer non-locking over locking?

The locking grips use some of the available grip diameter for the plastic sleeve that you use for clamping down onto the grip. The non-locking have probably double the thickness of rubber. I switched to these grips as a way of trying to further dampen vibrations, I've always had issues with bad 'bike park hands' and a combination of the grips and vibrocore bars seems to have done an incredible amount to help. I no longer have sore hands when I'm doing full park days.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

me your dad posted:

Thanks - that's good reasoning. I noticed only recently I'm getting hand fatigue on normal trail rides (about an hour duration) and I realized I haven't bought new grips in years.

I think this is almost certainly an issue with putting too much weight on your hands when you ride, harmful lever positioning, or yeah maybe a need for ergo grips.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Gryi posted:

It's got a few very minor scratches, and It's the dark shiny purple. *swoon*

Please tell me you live in my area and are riding double blacks on a fully rigid so that I can sponsor you out of my own pocket for world cups 2021.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Ropes4u posted:

What is the best option for frame protection? I have narrowed it down to using helicopter tape or one of the kits but thought I would ask ..

I used a kit from invisiframe. Short of getting pros to wrap your bike it's the best option, they have custom kits for even different sizes of the same frame. It took at least 3 hours for me to do and I still notice some errors with it so make sure you give yourself lots of time if you go down this route. It's held up extremely well!

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

poo poo sorry to see it man. Glad you're otherwise alright.

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