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tylertfb posted:Does anybody here ride with a camelbak / hydration backpack? I want to pick one up mostly for cross-country skiing, but figure I could use it on the MTB also. I'd like to have room for water, a stashed light jacket/windbreaker, and a bit of food. Any recs? I like my Deuter Race EXP Air - it has a little torsioned frame that keeps it off your back (and therefore keeps back sweat at bay). Size range sounds perfect for what you want and I think it comes w a 3L bladder.
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Feb 25, 2021 01:04
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bicievino posted:Took a month but 165mm cranks finally showed up. It's good enough for MVDP?
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Mar 14, 2021 17:01
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n8r posted:Looking for a riding pack recommendation: I love Osprey stuff (almost all my other packs are from them) but this is my fav cycling backpack: https://www.deuter.com/us-en/shop/backpacks/p225968-bike-backpack-race-exp-air The whole thing is suspended off that mesh back panel.
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May 9, 2022 14:46
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jamal posted:I have inserts in my gravel wheels and also the rear of my mtb. Seems like good additions so far. Helps keep my fancy wheels from banging into rocks and makes it harder to get a flat. I've run my gravel wheels into some things way harder than I'd like and have come out unscathed. A few of them I even stopped and checked out the tire expecting a cut. Going to try them with tubeless cx tires this year, and I hear they're even becoming popular in pro road racing. So when you get a flat you can't plug and have to put a tube in, what do you do with the sealant-covered insert? Honestly I really don't understand tubeless. The only flats I get are on the road from glass/etc so I'm sure it would save me from a few tube swaps but it takes 5 min and I don't have to gently caress around with anything. Never flatted off-road w tubes (now guaranteed to ruin that streak lol). Is it really just for people who are charging downhill on crazy rocky stuff?
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Aug 16, 2022 22:15
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Calvin Johnson Jr. posted:Probably been asked to death but do you guys have a recommendation for a bike I can use on paved trails/gravel that's in the $500ish range? I'm willing to spend a little more. I don't mind buying used either. I had a Specialized mountain bike and loved it until I broke the frame. Cost me about $600 so I'm kinda looking for a similar experience. I have flat rear end feet and I want to just put my headphones in and do cardio on trails. Buy used. At that price point all the different brand 29" MTBs are exactly the same. Spend $500 for a bike that was $1000 a few years ago or $250 for one that was $500.
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Feb 20, 2023 02:40
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VelociBacon posted:The reason we're providing advice like the above is because at that price point there is going to be more variation of overall suitability due to the bike's condition than there will be in the bike's brand/model. Uh, yeah you have to be aware of condition when buying used? Sorry thought that was assumed.
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Feb 20, 2023 17:00
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VelociBacon posted:I don't think the person initially asking the question would be aware that the condition of the actual bike in front of you is more important than the brand or model at that price point, or they wouldn't have asked. All new $500 bikes are the same. Save some money and buy used. If you buy used to have to be a bit careful. There did I miss anything?
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Feb 20, 2023 21:00
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Saw this a while back - haven't tried it though: "...prop your bike between two stepladders, picnic tables, or the like—whatever gets the bike a few feet off the ground so it can pivot freely around the bottom bracket. Set the bike between these props, balanced on both pedals with the cranks horizontal. In your riding shoes, stand on the pedals, grab the handlebars, and stand up as if you’re doing a deadlift. Ideally, if you’re standing with arms at full extension, the handlebar should rest at your hips. If you have to uncurl your fingers to stand fully upright, your RAD is too short. If you have to bend your elbows to lift the bar to your hips, it’s too long" From - https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-gear/bikes-and-biking/mountain-bike-frame-size-fit/ Video explainer here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyppZOpHocM&t=339s
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Feb 21, 2023 20:49
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^100% I tell new cyclists that a gravel bike is the best of both worlds, on and off road. (As opposed to the bike style they're usually asking for advice on buying, a hybrid.) A proper hardtail MTB tho? Always good to have in the quiver. Just not the best single bike solution for most folks.
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Apr 19, 2023 17:41
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Cargo bike is the only acceptable kickstand scenario, sorry.
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May 24, 2023 16:51
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I had a non displaced radial head fracture (so kinda similar, but admittedly smaller bone) and it healed in like three weeks - here's hoping similar speed for you! And weirdly they actually wanted me to stay out of a splint/cast - apparently it heals better not being totally stationary? Dunno for yours though. Good luck! amenenema fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Aug 25, 2023 |
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Aug 25, 2023 03:36
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It would push your budget a touch but Continental Race Kings are really fast rolling for the amount of traction they have. I don't know how they are durability-wise but I've had 'em on my 90's MTB to gravel conversion for over a year with no flats. Running them with tubes FWIW.
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Nov 22, 2023 21:45
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New XC whip - Orbea Alma H20
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Nov 30, 2023 19:06
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Nocheez posted:I don't see many Orbeas out there. My neighbors are from Germany and their kids have them, very nice bikes. I also saw them as a rare oddity for years. The frame/paint quality is some of the highest I've seen. Compared to a BMC twostroke it's not even close. Plus Orbea is worker owned, which is a cool bonus!
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Nov 30, 2023 20:39
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FogHelmut posted:I'm reading 29" are sluggish and not nimble? Or is that old news? I'm 6' tall and would be on a large frame. Most would recommend you be on a 29er unless you have some specific use case: Small frame - nope Downhill robustness - doesn't sound like it Wider tires for more flotation in sandy/loose soils - maybe? Do you want a more XC focused hardtail (trade downhill stability for uphill efficiency) or something more for charging downhill? Note you can also get a decent full suspension rig from Canyon for under $2k, but you will absolutely get better parts spec on a hardtail. Look for a full Deore groupset (vs low end Sram) and boost thru-axles. Decent air fork too. Supposedly Suntour low end air is better than RockShox but I don't have first hand experience.
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Dec 2, 2023 23:50
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Can you find a YouTube video of someone riding the trail(s) you wanna ride?
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Dec 3, 2023 02:49
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The difference between a gravel bike and even the most conservative XC hardtail on singletrack is huge. Wide flat bars alone are a major improvement, and then add a suspension fork!
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Dec 3, 2023 19:33
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funkymonks posted:Bikepacking has a lot of articles that show the different bikes people use for different ultra races. They just posted one today on the Atlas. But there are lots in the archive. This is exactly what I was gonna post! It sure seems like the majority are going to hardtail 29ers with the main choice being flat or drop bars. There's a race in my area called Lord of the Springs that is probably less than 10% technical singletrack (and the rest really well manicured gravel) and the XC bikes are still faster than gravel (buddy and I tried it on gravel bikes and were nearly dead last when in other areas gravel races we're more mid-pack). Overall I'd say a HT 29er with clip on aero bars is probably the most versatile race rig for stuff of this type.
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Feb 9, 2024 16:01
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Maudib Arakkis posted:Folks say the Costco intended are like 2010 geometry. Any truth to this? 66 degree HTA is pretty modern for XC/trail. A 73 degree seat tube is kinda slack though.
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Feb 29, 2024 15:46
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Polish posted:South Eastern PA. Im really not going to be taking it on any rough terrain, at most some dirt trails in the woods where the most abuse it might see is hopping a downed log. Mostly using it for some exercise on paved neighborhood roads a couple times a week. My requirements really are two wheels and some gear shifting, and some shocks would be preferred. I didn't really want to go above 200 in case I get lazy or bored and this hobby doesn't stick.. but if everything down in that range is complete garbage or worse, unsafe, then I'll start looking at more spendy options. https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/d/elkins-park-road-hybrid-commuter-medium/7729064893.html You don't want suspension for your purposes. At that price point all it will do is make the bike heavier and less efficient. Find yourself a hybrid of some description from a not ALLCAPS Amazon brand and make the first upgrade a nice supple set of wider tires. Faster and more comfortable.
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Mar 21, 2024 03:53
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Polish posted:Shifting is very rough, sometimes not shifting at all until I cycle through the gears a few times. Front rubber on the shocks is torn. The whole thing squeaks and clicks like hell. The frame is not straight. Lots of rust. It does what I need it to do, and I could fix some of the issues, but its that classic dump money/time in to it or just get a new one kinda deal. Like I said I just started riding again for some exercise and the goal is to use it 2-3 times a week 30-60 minutes a day.. more if possible but trying to be realistic. Do not put a single dollar into that bike. Save up 200+ and get a more modern/non-department store bike on your local classifieds of choice. We are happy to help you look!
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Mar 21, 2024 15:19
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Polish posted:
Also, that seat is almost certainly far too low. A starting point is full leg extension with one heel on a pedal, so that when you shift to the ball of foot on the pedal there is a slight bend in the knee. Regarding tire pressure, we've only recently learned that lower pressure is faster over anything but glass smooth surfaces. It's counter-intuitive, but low pressures absorb bumps and therefore are more efficient in rolling forward instead of bouncing up and down. Also, the suppleness of tire material makes a big difference (potentially 10s of Watts for a MTB tire) so when you're looking for an upgrade tires would be a great first move. The difference in free speed from a garden variety $20 tire to something like a Continental Race King or similar is huge. More info at https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/mtb-reviews Upon more inspection, WTF is up with that front derailleur cable routing?!? amenenema fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Mar 27, 2024 |
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Mar 27, 2024 15:41
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Double post whoops
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Mar 27, 2024 15:44
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Tenacious J posted:I'm wondering what new kind of bike I should get. Gravel bike? Full sus MTB? Trail/XC? You're in that gravel vs HT MTB middle ground it sounds like. Options: - Rowdier, more trail focused gravel bike a-la Canyon Grizl. Put some 46+ cm bars on it and maybe ever an XPLR front suspension fork. Run max tire width. - XC hardtail whippet. Front shock lockout. You can ride even a racy gravel bike on technical singletrack with a bit of practice, but it'll definitely be slower and you'll get to experience whether you like "under biking" or not. An XC rig will likely feel slower to you on pavement/gravel but will eat up the type of off road you describe. Because you're encountering everything from pavement to tech trails on a single ride (unless I'm misinterpreting) I'm hesitant to suggest N+1 e.g. a gravel bike to complement your existing MTB. I think you want that elusive "one bike to rule them all" Maybe just pick based on if you like drop or flat bars?? amenenema fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Mar 27, 2024 |
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Mar 27, 2024 19:34
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Cactus Ghost posted:on asphalt it's entirely down to personal preference. less psi gets a smoother ride with more rolling resistance. more gives a bumpier ride with less rolling resistance. unlike in dirt and mud traction is almost always a non-issue. for a given road roughness there's always a point where increasing pressure will actually increase rolling resistance, but you're unlikely to get anywhere near that on asphalt if the tire's rated max is 60psi Unfortunately it's just not that simple re: tire pressure and rolling resistance. https://www.renehersecycles.com/the-science-behind-the-tire-pressure-calculator/
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Mar 28, 2024 00:43
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Tenacious J posted:Thanks to everyone for the help, I really appreciate all the info and it's led me to two different Trek bikes. Budget is 3000-4000 CAD, but less is obviously better. You do NOT want a Fuel for that lol, isn't it like 30+ lbs? Checkpoint is a great gravel bike, but biased more towards road than mountain if I'm not mistaken. Maybe look into those MTB brands that make one gravel bike that's basically a drop bar hardtail like Rocky Mountain or Santa Cruz?
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Mar 29, 2024 20:47
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Cactus Ghost posted:most of what i know about bike tires comes from a time when 23 was standard width for the road and mtbs that weren't 26" were the hot new thing so yeah i may just be dating myself. i think i've owned... one? two. two sets of tires that even exist on the charts in that article For sure - it's still an emerging body of knowledge. mik posted:Bought a new bike after some years of hiatus, and was wondering why it didn't have valve nuts - apparently it's a thing people argue about on the internet now? Yes I will go tubeless eventually If they're not rattling no nuts necessary - save the little scuff on your rims!
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Mar 31, 2024 13:33
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I still think a used bike is a better choice for you, but I'm also interested to see your perspective as this is a question that comes up often when people know you're a "bike person"
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Apr 4, 2024 17:36
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bakaraven posted:Hey, Long time lurker! What do other people ride on the trails in which you're interested?
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Apr 21, 2024 15:45
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Polish posted:Been riding a ton. I put my new pedals on and they are much thinner and wider than the old plastic ones. They seem to be hitting the ground more often on some terrain, but its just something I have to get used to. I have been practicing going off a small jump which I finally got my back tire off of today. Confidence is soaring and I still haven't outgrown the trails by my house. I took some pictures of them: This all kicks rear end. Nice job!!
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May 3, 2024 04:15
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