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I'm looking for tire recommendations for dry semi rocky terrain (Black Hills, South Dakota). Generally not much in the way of roots. I've been running large, fairly aggressive tires: 2.75 Surly Dirt Wizard front, 2.5 Maxxis DHF rear now; before that 2.5 DHF front and rear. I probably wouldn't buy the dirt wizard again, I don't feel like I gain anything worth the increased weight. I'm out of shape and not pushing things as hard as I have in the past. I'd like to switch to something that rolls better but is still reasonably grippy and confidence inspiring. Maybe 2.35" or so. 26in tubeless 
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Jun 22, 2022 05:23
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Unfortunately, those don't seem to be available in 26. Seems like most new designs aren't. Yet another reason to buy a new bike eventually.
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Jun 22, 2022 06:18
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I thought this book was really good and it could help you with cornering. I got it after I had been mountain biking for years and felt like I knew what I was doing and still learned a lot of stuff about body position and weight distribution; and navigating corners, bumps, etc. 
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Jun 24, 2022 03:21
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Mountain biking up hills is super hard work, I've walked plenty. Everyone has been there. It's an awesome feeling when you improve and can ride up things you've previously had to walk. Just ride a little more each time. That bike has dope graphics  e: a shock pump is different than a tire pump and I've never seen anything dual purpose. The shock will need to be pumped up to something like 200psi. A shock pump is optimized for high pressure and low volume. You could theoretically use a shock pump for a tire but it would take forever to fill it with air. Even if a tire pump could handle the pressure needed for a shock, you wouldn't be able to pump it because you don't have enough mechanical advantage. taqueso fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Sep 4, 2022 |
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Sep 4, 2022 00:07
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I use a poc backpack with spine protection built in or so it's claimed. My spine has not been injured thus far, but I don't really know if it's as good as a dedicated thing
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Sep 23, 2022 19:32
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Scrapez posted:Why don't they make dropper posts with linear actuators that allow up and down travel without having to use your body weight to lower them? Running directly with a motorized linear actuator is really power hungry and would need a big battery. The seat isn't exactly heavy but you still have to move >100 grams >100mm over and over. With something like a reverb (axs or not), it only has to move a small actuator a small distance to trigger the release of stored energy in the air spring that the rider helpfully compressed.
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Oct 26, 2022 00:45
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You can chop up old carbon parts and use them to make stuff like boat hulls where the strength and weight doesn't matter too much. Not that it really happens much.
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Dec 11, 2022 22:01
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It's ridiculous but also about what I'd expect
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Apr 1, 2023 04:31
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Shnooks posted:I'm not ready for clipless pedals on my mountain bike yet, so are hiking shoes too much or does it not really matter? I've been wearing some relatively flat sneakers but they offer no ankle support. You don't really need ankle support, but you do want a stiff sole. Some hiking shoes are great for that, some aren't.
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Aug 20, 2023 22:44
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My niterider 4200 is plenty on its own, no need for a second light. I am not a fan of the connector or the mount or the lens and I keep thinking about replacing it. But, it throws a ton of light everywhere. Including up into the sky 
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Sep 4, 2023 23:13
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Autoshift is pretty decent for general use but it has a terrible time with the transition into a hill. It leaves you in too tall of a gear, and then takes too long imo to decide to correct. The motor can sortof paper over this if you don't mind dropping to really low cadence for a bit. I hate how it feels. It's good enough that I really miss it when I turn it off, though, so I manually adjust before the hills which works out great cadence-wise but now I have to babysit the gears again. I don't like this middle ground very much, I've tasted no-shift life and it is good but manually correcting the system is heartbreaking. I wouldn't buy one of these on the strength of autoshift or shifting while coasting, at least not yet, though they are 'nifty'.Nohearum posted:Kill it with fire. Next will be self-driving for bikes so people can use their phones while they cruise down the trail. It removes a distraction from piloting the bike. Shifting is something I have a lot of experience doing and it isn't a huge cognitive overload and I do it unconsciously, but it is surprisingly nice to not worry about it at all and just ride. I went into it thinking autoshift would be stupid and it made me a begrudging convert. disclosure - I work for sram but did not have anything to do with autoshift taqueso fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Sep 29, 2023 |
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Sep 28, 2023 23:07
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Have you looked at this doc? https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1086
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Sep 29, 2023 00:02
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8.5in is only a couple mm over the low end of the 175mm range in step 1. better be really sure about that measurement. for me that'd be too close for comfort
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Sep 29, 2023 03:34
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I've only tried the one from sram
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Sep 29, 2023 03:47
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vikingstrike posted:I would take a dropper over thru axles if I had to pick. Setec_Astronomy posted:On a new MTB I would view QR hubs as an absolute deal-breaker. Unlike a dropper post, you can only upgrade to thru axles by buying a different bike*, and the presence of QR hubs screams "low quality bike or bike from 2005."
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Nov 14, 2023 01:41
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now watch this ride
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Dec 19, 2023 03:56
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I dig that green color
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Jan 9, 2024 02:40
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It can certainly work with rims that aren't claimed "tubeless compatible." Worked great for me for a few years until I got real deal tubeless wheels.
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Jan 13, 2024 19:55
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You don't have to have a dropper, either, it just makes it much more convenient. Back in the old days, we would use quick-release seat clamps and take a quick break at the top of the hill and drop the seat before big descents. And then stop and put it back up at the bottom.
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Mar 2, 2024 07:10
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VelociBacon posted:Bullies? The velominati and their sock rules
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Mar 10, 2024 23:11
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If I was you, I'd go look for something used. Craigslist/marketplace can work but if you have a bike co-op nearby that is a good option because they will tune up the bike. Bikes depreciate pretty quickly, less-so on the low-end. A $1k or $1.5k bike from 2019 might be $200-500 now. A new $200 bike might be better than what you have, if what you have is an old $100 bike. But, generally these "department store" bikes have substandard everything, sometimes dangerously so; assembled by people that don't know what they are doing, sometimes dangerously so. Fixing the issues can be expensive, like the bike in the video below has terrible brakes. Swapping on hydraulic brakes is going to be maybe $100 (and I think that is probably optimistic) so you don't end up saving much money over the lowest tier of non-department-store bikes if you fix it up. A downside to the cheapest bikes is that they generally use old designs, old standards, old everything, which can mean you are limited in upgrade potential. This video is some accomplished riders playing around with a $250 bike. 6:30 for the 'verdict'. Honestly, it does better than I expected. Semi-functional but it isn't the path to getting excited about biking, it's just going to be frustrating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GvZjxdQH-uQ
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Mar 21, 2024 03:47
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as an aside, 50psi is pretty drat high pressure for a mtb tire
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Mar 21, 2024 22:25
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I think some super wide fatbike stuff on snow or sand is crazy low like 5-8 PSI. Weight and tire volume (size of the tire and diameter/width of the rim contribute) makes a big difference in reasonable pressure, back when we ran skinny rims with 1.9"/2.1" tubed tires, off-road pressures were like 25-35 but now with 2.3-2.5" tubeless its like 20-30 (super-rough numbers, lots of factors come into play plus some people like super low pressure and some not). Additionally, you can get away with less pressure using tubeless because you don't have to worry about pinch-flats (smashing the tube between the rim and a rock or curb). They sell foam tire inserts that allow running even lower pressures. Generally, lower pressure has better grip for offroad until you get flats or the tire starts to get squirmy and feel 'flat' even though it is holding air. Anyway, if you want to get a decent starting point for pressure you can use a calculator that takes into account tire size, rider/bike weight, terrain type etc like https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure. Maybe flip around between terrain types to get an idea of what is reasonable, but you can probably go up or down like 25% from the recommendation without catastrophe. e: Polish posted:My brother in law just gave me his Schwinn mountain bike that he has used all of two times, its about ten years old and in great condition. taqueso fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Mar 27, 2024 |
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Mar 27, 2024 04:12
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$4 frameless wraparound style safety glasses are hard to beat for cost/performance ratio
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Apr 2, 2024 04:20
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Polish posted:Yeah I watched him and a couple other people talk about it. Like I said, grain of salt, but it doesn't seem bad. The fork is the same fork on a Trek Marlin 6. Most components seem to be industry standard fits, and half decent quality. For that price point really the only argument against is "buying from Walmart" and "qualifications of who put it together". I am probably going to pick one up and I'll document how it goes here and the ups and downs from a new rider. Hopefully it doesn't bite me in the rear end, but we will see. That ozark trail does look pretty legit. It has a tapered head tube which is surprisingly uncommon in the cheapest bikes from name brands. The old straight style has very limited suspension upgrade options. Polish posted:Are there service manuals from bike manufactures and such with proper torque values? This does exist for fancy parts for sure, sometimes it is even printed on the part, and I think big players like Shimano and SRAM will have torque specs for the low end, too. If you can't find anything for the exact parts you have, you could try to crib a rough idea of the torque from the manual of an expensive similar thing. e.g. stuff that clamps to the handlebar with an m5 bolt is all going to be roughly the same torque -- tight enough to keep the thing from rotating but not so tight as to deform the bar. Which you don't really need a torque wrench for, unless you are talking about carbon parts or you can't resist going gorilla tight. Honestly, if you are mechanically sympathetic and typically avoid striping out bolts on things you work on, you can basically just tighten everything up and be good without searching out torque specs. The headset topcap, as mentioned above, is a little special even though it looks like you'd just tighten it up to help hold the fork on. taqueso fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Apr 5, 2024 |
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Apr 5, 2024 04:36
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Polish posted:my seat is too high. I raised my seat based off of your guys suggestion and its in a really nice position when riding. I'm getting better power out of my pedaling and its much more comfortable. However, it seems that its too high to get into the first position to do a jump. I stand up, and then try to crouch down to get my thighs at a 90* angle and by that point I'm basically on the seat and that doesn't quite work for the rest of the jump. taqueso fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Apr 5, 2024 |
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Apr 5, 2024 04:52
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The air is released from the pump and hose only, they are designed to close the valve before the seal is broken. Maybe a rock bros doesn't do that but every shock pump I've used works that way. Rock bros stuff generally seems to work correctly despite being cheap, honestly I'd expect their shock pump to be fine. This is a super common misconception, I remember thinking the same thing when I got my first air shock. taqueso fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Apr 8, 2024 |
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Apr 8, 2024 21:44
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I'd be concerned about the yari desperately needing a rebuild and making this swap not "free". It's maybe a slightly better fork than the gold but is it enough better to make it worth the hassle?
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Apr 13, 2024 21:53
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