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funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

n8r posted:

Machine built sucks. Flow sucks.

:hmmyes:

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funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

me your dad posted:

Tire question - does anyone have opinions on Ardent vs Rekon vs Ikon?

I actually don't like the Ikon and I only mention it because the Rekon is a variation of it and it appears to have more bite. I have used the Ikon in the past as a rear tire, combined with an Ardent in the front. I ride single speed so I am usually out of the saddle on climbs. The small tread of the Ikon resulted in frequent slippage and I won't go back to that tire. I like the idea of a very fast rolling tire and I am after a combination of aggressive tread and speed (I guess most of us are). I wish I could use micro-knobby tires but they just don't work well for me.

I currently run Ardent front and rear and I am happy with it but I'm always after a little more speed and acceleration.

Is anyone running Rekon in the front or rear (or both)? How do you like it?

I use a Rekon rear and it’s good except it packs up easy if you have any kind of mud or wet soil. I like it because it’s wet a lot where I live but I’m mostly dealing with wet rocks and roots and the smaller knobs do well on those. It sucks real bad though in any kind of mud or sticky loam.

I run it with an XR4 front which is a bit less aggressive than a minion. Sort of similar to a Nobby Nic but it’s way more durable and I like the side knobs better.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

tylertfb posted:

Does anybody here ride with a camelbak / hydration backpack? I want to pick one up mostly for cross-country skiing, but figure I could use it on the MTB also. I'd like to have room for water, a stashed light jacket/windbreaker, and a bit of food. Any recs?

My Camelbak LR is the most comfortable hydration pack I’ve worn. I like how it lowers most of the weight to lower on your back. But the method of loading the bladder sucks compared to the Osprey pack I have.

Make sure you get a neoprene insulated hose. My uninsulated one freezes up extremely fast.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I’d personally go SLX with carbon rims for 100$ more than the XT package if that’s your price range. I’d rather spend the money saving weight on the wheels than components and SLX vs XT is pretty darn close in quality.

Ripmo is great.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I'm 5'7" on a medium with a 29" inseam and I like it just fine. Stack is maybe a little bit high but I prefer more a more upright position while seated so that doesn't bother me. But standover and reach fit great. I would think a large would be good for someone 2 inches taller than me.

Hayes please restock your poo poo. I want a Mezzer for my Ripmo.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I have a DVO Sapphire D1 on my Chameleon and like it very very much. For me at least, the off-the-top setting is better than anything Fox or Rockshox has for increasing plushness for high speed chatter. The fork starts to move when you breathe on it, super smooth, no stiction. If you want something for big hits, I can't really comment on that since I don't ride my hardtail on those kind of trails but its been great on rocky/rooty trails and tech climbs and rock gardens.

I am pretty sure the OTT and Damper is the same with the Onyx just getting a bigger chassis and air spring. Also DVO folks will pick up the phone and answer questions about tuning if you call.

I am trying to get a Mezzer for my Ripmo personally, but I may give up waiting and get an Onyx instead.

e: Also check with your shop about servicing DVO vs Fox stuff. Maybe they do everything and that won't be a decision point but there are some shops that don't do in house service on some brands either due to lack of training or lack of tools and they send stuff out. Which makes maintenance more expensive. I think sending a shock to Fox for service is a couple hundred bucks plus shipping but if you can get it done locally it can be half that.

funkymonks fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Feb 28, 2021

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
You might be able to demo something from a shop to see if you like off-road riding before going thru the trouble of buying a bike.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I run 27.5x3" studded tires on my hardtail as a fatbike replacement and it works great for our typically icy winters. During the warmer months I run fast-ish 27.5x2.8" tires (Bontrager XR2) which I also like.

I have ridden a plus bike with more aggressive tires and that is where they start to get too heavy and slow for my liking. If I need a DHF/DHR or similar for grip then I'm not super interested in using plus tires. I think this is ultimately the market where they failed. For more aggressive riding, the heavier casings/treads start to get pretty heavy and the extra volume can get a bit squirmy.

I use my hardtail for lots of random stuff like bikepacking, riding rail trails when I don't feel like using the gravel bike/want suspension, and general loving around. I really like plus tires for those use cases.

Chameleon in the snow:


I finally have a Mezzer on the way for my Ripmo. Very excited to play with a new fork. Time to retire my very disappointing MRP Ribbon.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

Homers BBBq posted:

Some friends have been bugging me to get into this sport for a few years but I've resisted because I didn't have enough time to justify the steep entry price. My schedule is finally clearing up so I pulled the trigger on a specialized fuse when it came in stock near me randomly about a month ago. Been reading the thread so I have my bike, pedals, gloves, helmet, bike rack for the car... what do people wear for clothes?

I'm reading there are mountain bike specific shorts and jerseys. Jersey seems less important with tech shirts but what are thoughts on shorts? The length and stretchiness make it seem like a worthwhile accessory. Confused about if I need a liner or not though. I have cycling shorts from road biking. Do people go liner free shorts plus cycling shorts? Or just get shorts with a liner? Or do you not need a liner at all? If not, what do you wear underneath?

I live in the northeast and rides will probably be 2 hours +/- of some combination of XC and all mountain.

I prefer separate liners and shorts. Sometimes I ride with liner bibs (super long rides), sometimes liner knickers (cold rides), sometimes liner shorts (quick after work rides) so I like to mix and match. Best use case for jerseys is if you want the rear pockets for stashing stuff but most people I know just wear merino or some sort of poly tech t shirt. A bunch of people I ride with just use a tech boxer but they must have an rear end of steel. I can never get that to work for me on the bumpy trails.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

Bud Manstrong posted:

If an internal dropper can fit, OneUp would be a good choice. Short insertion length and a calculator on their website to let you know exactly what size to get based on how her current post fits.

If an external dropper is the only option, look at the Fox Transfer or PNW Cascade. Those dimensions could be tough though.

Seconding the One Up. You can even reduce travel more with their internal pins so you should be able to get it to work.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I would suggest spds. They have a clear option that releases easier and you can adjust the tension to be very light as well. Also they are just more durable than egg beater style pedals.

For shoes it’s really personal in terms of fit and also what kind of walking experience via super stiff sole you want. I personally like Pearl Izumi X Alp series because they fit my foot and the higher end models have good adjustable foot beds for my terrible feet. But you really have to try a bunch of brands to see what fits. A lot of them tend to run narrow.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

kreeningsons posted:

I have a 1992 Nishiki Ariel that I picked up to whip around forest roads and maybe other trails if my skills progress.

How am I supposed to mount a second bottle cage on this? The mounting holes (I think they're for the bottle cage at least. they're the correct spacing and size) are on the inner part of the chain stay. There isn't room to fit an entire cage here unless the cage were to have the mating mounting holes on the bottom of the bottle, not the side.





I don't know why Nishiki would place the mount here, but I think the earlier Nishiki raised chainstay models had issues with the seat tube cracking, so maybe they avoided it in the later 1992 model to be careful. Weird mutant looking bike :rolleye:

You could try a wolf tooth b-rad rail to move the top cage up higher. Then you might be able to get a side load cage with a small bottle in.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I’ve been rear ended four times with my 1 up rack on. It and my forester have been unscathed. Definitely hosed up the grill on one car that hit me pretty good.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

Nohearum posted:

A new carbon wheelset is calling me. Talk me out of it.

No.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
More serious post, the only actual benefit I have noticed from my carbon wheels are that they hold up much better than alloy rims I've had in the past. I had dented many an alloy rim and the We Are One rims I've had for the past three-ish years have been smacked into rocks repeatedly without issues. They have also remained extremely true and have required very little in terms of spoke tension adjustment.

They may be stiffer, they may hold lines better, but I will never know because I am not that aggressive of a rider where it would make a difference.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I did not like my ribbon at all. I found it to be fine on big hits but borderline rigid on fast small bumps like roots. It lacks high speed compression adjustment which is not great in a thousand dollar fork. As someone who only rides hand built single track full of rocks and roots it was a bad fork for me. I replaced it with a Mezzer which has been absolutely amazing.

I have a DVO Sapphire on my hard tail which I also like a bunch.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

vikingstrike posted:

I do agree with you that the compression characteristics of the fork aren’t the best. The new damper is supposed to help this? Never used it though.

I had no idea it had a new damper. Definitely my bad on that.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

Homers BBBq posted:

A while back someone posted that getting a private lesson was a good investment. I'm getting to the point where an advanced lesson on trails I actually ride would be really worthwhile. So... where do you find a good instructor? I'm in Massachusetts so I checked the NEMBA website and didn't see anything listed. I also checked a few of the bigger LBS websites and didn't see anything specific either. It's not like skiing where you just go to the mountain... ha. Any advice or local resources? Start with a class? I have a few buddies who would chip in for a private ride, which I'm guessing would work well for our skill levels.

Depending where in Mass you are, Highland in NH has lessons available.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
The OneUp can also be slightly tweaked with some internal pins if you need a slightly shorter travel post. It’s super easy to do.

I Have a Bike Yoke revive and two OneUps. The Bike Yoke is definitely a smoother post and has less play but it’s not worth the premium over the OneUp, imo.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
If you like your Ripley the Ripmo would be a logical step up. I think the Ripmo AF with DVO suspension is considerably better than most anything you’ll get at a similar price point from a bike you’ll find in a LBS.

I have a v1 Ripmo and it’s the first bike that I’ve been happy enough with to keep more than a couple years.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I use the 45nrth bibs, a 250 weight smart wool top and a breathable softshell coat. That works for me from 45 down to about 25.

For 15 deg to 25 deg I add another merino baselayer under the bibs and do a 100 weight smartwool top, grid fleece, then softshell.

I don’t ride colder than 15, nothing seems to keep the seat making my groin too cold at that temperature. I use pogies and a light wool glove all winter. Pogies are the best.

It’s important to start the ride slightly cold.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
If you are getting a “tow package” installed somewhere there is a bunch of cost associated with the wiring harness that you definitely don’t need for just a hitch rack. You should be able to do it considerably cheaper for just a hitch.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I can’t keep up with my friends and I have no shame about making them wait.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I have both Outbound Trail Evo and Hangover. I honestly don’t use the hangover very much because the Evo on my bars is like the sun. I only use the hangover on super twisty stuff where my bar light isn’t pointing where I need to look. Both are excellent.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
Bikepacking has a lot of articles that show the different bikes people use for different ultra races. They just posted one today on the Atlas. But there are lots in the archive.

https://bikepacking.com/bikes/2024-atlas-mountain-race-rigs-part-1/

The only fairly consistent theme across most all of the bikes for most all of the races that I have seen is people use 29er wheels with fast rolling tires. Even the gravel bikes are using 2.2" tires or so.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
The other issue is that Walmart bikes are built by Walmart employees. You just aren’t getting a bike built according to manufacturers recommendations with everything greased and torqued properly from Walmart.

Taking that out of the equation it’s really difficult to tell anything at all about that bike. Website doesn’t list any of the frame standards so if you break a part it’s a crapshoot on what you might be able to replace with a normal name brand part.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

charliebravo77 posted:

Most of the times I have crashed/fallen on a bike have been at very low speeds or even stopped, but my head still could have impacted asphalt or a tree or rock with enough force to cause me some major problems. Once it did, but I was wearing a helmet. Wear a helmet, you only get one brain.

Same. My last two crashes were my fatbike tire falling thru crust that had melted underneath barely moving at all and flipping through my garmin while on a fire road. Both times resulted in needing a new helmet.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

Suburban Dad posted:

I haven't been biking in awhile due to multiple health issues. Still hoping maybe this summer I'll get out after surgery... I found out that my neck/trap pain that I've had on pretty much every bike was due to my poo poo form and bad upper back posture (craning neck to look up the trail when I should have been more upright in my slouching upper back and using my eyes to look up instead). Now I have arthritis in my neck from it so not sure how much longer I can really ride. A bike fit didn't really help but I have tried adding some bizzaro parts to make my nice bike look really stupid. Imagine this goofy rear end stem and bar setup on a carbon bike with factory suspension. :lol:

https://tumbleweed.cc/products/persuader-bar + https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QY87BD3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I have no idea how this will work on a trail but the cockpit is way more upright now at least. I worry about getting any weight over the front wheel now but the trails here are fairly tame at least.

PSA to listen to what your body is telling you and try and fix it before you break it irreparably. I did try to fix it (to be fair) but kept riding anyway through the pain.

I have a persuader bar that I like a lot. One note is that when I initially set it up, I tried to get a similar reach setup as on my flat bars (which meant a longer stem than usual on a mountain bike, 80mm I think) and I ended up feeling way too stretched out. I ended up with just a marginally longer stem (went from 35mm to 50mm) and was happy with that. So definitely play with the both the stem length and bar width if you feel uncomfortable.

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funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug

in a well actually posted:

I am swapping 29" wheels for 27.5", the boost hubs mount well, but the hubs have centerlock brake mounts instead of 6 bolt. I have not ordered any rotors yet but eyeballing it it looks like the centerlock mount isn't as far out as the 6 bolt and might not like up with the caliper. Should a centerlock wheel and rotor be interchangeable with a 6-bolt wheel and rotor?

Yes they are interchangeable. Centerlock rotors have a bunch if material on them that pushes them out farther from the hub than it may appear at first. You can also buy center lock 6 bolt adapters if you don’t want to shell out for new rotors.

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